Golden Hind (ex-Pelican) by Baker - FINISHED - scale 1/45 - Galleon late 16th century

[G.L.]

Patrick,

Very nice joinery!!

 

G.L.

[Baker]

Thank you GL

 

Installing the cannon barrels.  As already explained. Various sizes and callibers.

The barrles are glued on the carriages with ca glue. Holes have been drilled above the ports.

 

Next step, deck planking (nothing glued yet).

 

Thanks for following and likes

[Baker]

Hello,

 

Started with planking of the deck

General rules in 16th century deck planking :  there are no rules, use all your wooden planks that you have left ... and is the deck waterproof, then it is good.

some examples

 

I also made a ladder.

This will be glued on the model when the anchor cable is in place.

The original planks were probaly nailed and the head of the nail was caulced. 
Planks are provided with treenails ( the caulcing) in advance and have already been colored once before glueing on to the model.

 

Work in progress

 

The third box of toothpicks....

 

Thanks for following and merry christmas

[G.L.]

Patrick,

 

The interior of your model has a very realistic look. Stylish colors!

Leave some party sticks for the Christmas and New Year's Eve parties!

[Srodbro]

Please accept a comment from an absolute novice:

 

I have often thought that the “16th century planking rule” you mention must have applied (except, perhaps, on the day they were launched) to nearly all wooden ships, especially warships, that went on multi-year voyages, far from home ports.  I find it hard to believe that after several years at sea, battling foul weather and reefs, not to mention cannonballs, and the lack of good timber remote from home or friendly ports, that given such conditions, planking rules other than the one you mention were the norm. 

 

Of course, all evidence of my theory probably rests at the bottom of the sea. 

 

Absolutely enjoy your wonderful build.

[Baker]

Thank you G.L.

There will certainly be enough toothpicks left for the holidays.

 

Steve,

Thanks for the comment

I certainly will not make a puzzle of it like the examples shown. The Golden Hind was probably not a real warship, but an armed merchantman.
Specially built or rebuilt for this trip. Nobody knows that.

Of course there will have been nicely planked decks then, and others will have been "less nicely".

 

With the intention of my saying, no rules. I want to say :
Nicely planked  or with all possible leftovers planked. No one can say what is right or wrong for this period. All evidence is indeed at the bottom of the sea.

As you can see,  I keep the planking as neat as possible.

 

Interesting topic

 

[cog]

Merry Christmas to you and the family, Patrick

Edited December 26, 2018 by cog

[Baker]

Thank you Lawrence and Carl.

 

In the meantime, I found a solution to make the drains for the deck. One has been done as a test.
Source San Juan Whale ship.

 

 

[Baker]

I have finished planking the deck. This work took a while.
To prepare each plank separately before gluing on the model, takes more time. The advantage is that no more sanding has to be done on the model. So there will be no dust on the model itself.
The base for the whip staff has also been made.
It has not become a deck with a nice equal planking scheme. So, my apologies to everyone who does not like this.

 

Whip staff

 

deck

 

Thanks for following

[mtaylor]

What's not to like?  It has an aura of the real thing knowing what we know about how they planked decks back then.  I do like the way it looks.

[G.L.]

Patrick,

 

Nice job.

I like the color of your deck. What did you use to stain the planks?

 

 

 

[davyboy]

Patrick,you are making a very good model,very nice indeed.

 

I watched a programme yesterday on English television about this ship and Drake. There were many parts of the programme taken on board the replica in London. Not a lot of headroom below decks and extremely cramped living conditions. Hard to believe that the original ship circumnavigated the world.

 

BTW,the pivot point for the Whipstaff is called the Rowle.

 

Dave 

[nikbud]

I like the solid and purposeful look of the channels.

The decking pattern is very impressive, both the deck and channels give an insight into how these ships were built - with craftsmanship, but using what is available where necessary.

Good work, you have given me much to think about!

[md1400cs]

Patrick,

 

Just catching up - As always Brilliant indeed.

 

 

[Baker]

18 hours ago, G.L. said:

What did you use to stain the planks

Diluted Tamiya dark sea grey XF-54 for the deck (1/3 Paint  2/3 isopropyl alcohol )

After drying, the deck is matte. Polish then with scoth brite (green color). The more you polish the more gloss on the deck.

Sides of the planks are painted with Tamiya German Grey XF-63 
Black as caulcing gives too strong a contrast in combination with the gray of the deck.
Then it looks like the wood is weathered, and the caulcing is not.

[Baker]

10 hours ago, davyboy said:

Patrick,you are making a very good model,very nice indeed.

 

I watched a programme yesterday on English television about this ship and Drake. There were many parts of the programme taken on board the replica in London. Not a lot of headroom below decks and extremely cramped living conditions. Hard to believe that the original ship circumnavigated the world.

 

BTW,the pivot point for the Whipstaff is called the Rowle.

 

Dave 

Thank you,

 

I read somewhere. 

Spanish prisoners found the living conditions below deck dark, cramped and unhealthy. They were right 

 

 

[Baker]

5 hours ago, md1400cs said:

Patrick,

 

Just catching up - As always Brilliant indeed.

 

 

Thank you Michael

8 hours ago, nikbud said:

I like the solid and purposeful look of the channels.

The decking pattern is very impressive, both the deck and channels give an insight into how these ships were built - with craftsmanship, but using what is available where necessary.

Good work, you have given me much to think about!

Thank you

[G.L.]

1 hour ago, Backer said:

Diluted Tamiya dark sea grey XF-54 for the deck (1/3 Paint  2/3 isopropyl alcohol )

After drying, the deck is matte. Polish then with scoth brite (green color). The more you polish the more gloss on the deck.

Sides of the planks are painted with Tamiya German Grey XF-63 
Black as caulcing gives too strong a contrast in combination with the gray of the deck.
Then it looks like the wood is weathered, and the caulcing is not.

 

Thanks Patrick

[Baker]

Hello,

Today i started with the installation of a waterway on this deck. With the following models as examples : Batavia replica and the san Juan whaler.

 

First I paint the inside painting (had to do this much earlier, that would have worked easier)

All parts are first painted and detailed before assembling. Fillerblocks are used to make the horizontal parts easier to glue.

 

In the meantime, a second (plastic) shipyard has unexpectedly been started up. This is why this shipyard sometimes has a delay.

This was going to be something quick and easy. But has become something like a semi scratch.

 

 

Thanks for following

[G.L.]

Two models at the same time. That is what they call mass production!👍

[Baker]

Small update,

The inside is painted and the waterway is ready. This work me took more time than expected.

Thanks for following.

[vossiewulf]

Love the randomized deck planking, very realistic for the period. 

[G.L.]

Nice work, Patrick

[Baker]

Thanks for the comments,

 

The forecastle.
What looked simple was actually a bit complicated. Where to place the doors ? Where to place the ladders? The height of the deck ?

The hatch to the lower deck is in the way. It was not smart of me to provide this hatch at this place.

 

First the height of the deck is determined. My assistant is very helpful in this.

Then the support beam (beamshelf?) Of the deck beams is placed.

 

The location of doors and ladders is now being studied.
2 doors or openings on the side is not an option, the block in the fore castle can not be operated with the capstan.

 

The only solution on this model is one large opening in the middle without doors. The block in the fore castle can be operated with the capstan.

The opening will be made wider than the example so that access to the fore castle is easier.

I now know how to proceed. And looking at drawings from that time both solutions can be correct.

To be continued. Thanks for following.

[Louie da fly]

This looks good, Patrick. Apart from your own pragmatic reasons for having a single large opening for the forecastle, contemporary pictures of carracks (yes, I know, 50-100 years or so earlier) show them with large openings both under the main deck at the break of the aftercastle, and at the entry to the forecastle. I realise you're doing a galleon not a carrack, but I think you're on the right track with this.

 

And yes - the support beam for the deck beams is the beam shelf.

 

Steven

[Baker]

 

4 hours ago, Louie da fly said:

This looks good, Patrick. Apart from your own pragmatic reasons for having a single large opening for the forecastle, contemporary pictures of carracks (yes, I know, 50-100 years or so earlier) show them with large openings both under the main deck at the break of the aftercastle, and at the entry to the forecastle. I realise you're doing a galleon not a carrack, but I think you're on the right track with this.

 

And yes - the support beam for the deck beams is the beam shelf.

 

Steven

Steven, 

I also do not find this a good solution. I expected (actually hoped) for this comment.
Early galleons had this opening (1540-1550), but after this period not.

 

For the time being I place only  the 2 beams. and think further about the what to do : 1 opening / 2 doors.
It is perhaps best to place 2 doors and ignore the problem between the block and the capstan.

The doors will always remain visible. The problem with the block not.

[luponero]

Congratulations Patrick for your build,

I started following him now, ... better late than never, because it's really beautiful, and I'll definitely continue to follow him!

 

Fabio

called luponero

[Baker]

Thanks Fabio,

 

After searching through my documentation, I found that Steven is absolutely right. Going back to the beginning of this log I came across Matthew Baker's drawing. The sides of the fore castle must be as identical as possible all around. Wales, symbols, figures they have to go through in one line as much as possible.

 

So first i need to remove some pieces.

And then start to  rebuild.
2 doors are provided with "sufficient" passage height. Parts are first pre-painted as much as possible. But, here and there some area's will have to be sanded and repainted.

 

2 Dry fitted parts

 

 

 

I think i am back on the right track. Thanks for following

Edited March 4, 2019 by Backer

[vossiewulf]

Nice job handling that unexpected turn of events.

[G.L.]

Patrick,

 

 

You are surely on the right track!