IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC

[cog]

I think a video with commentary would be in order Greg ... video, video, video, video, .....

[BANYAN]

Thanks Vossy and Greg.  

 

That answers the major part and much appreciate the feedback.  The biggest trick (for me) as a novice will be to place things just right, hence my questions on where to apply the glue, the PE or the assembly part?  A few pics, or as COG suggests a video would be real nice, on some of the techniques you have developed for placing some of these tricky parts.  Unlike a nice big strong (compared to these plastic/resin models) you can clamp the assembly (read hull) which gives a nice steady platform on which to apply the part; how do you hold these smaller less robust assemblies while you place the PE; and don't fingers and the like get in the way????  

 

I hope this is not high-jacking your thread Greg, and I am happy to move these posts to a separate topic?  YouTube does not have much on this for building scale model ships (well that I can find anyway) and you seem to have a real knack for it; I am sure many others as well as I could benefit from your experience.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited November 23, 2016 by BANYAN

[RGL]

OK, when I do the next assembly I will break it down in a photo essay if you would like. It generally takes about 6 hours a piece so a video is out of the question, plus I don't want to go public.

 

Banyan knows why!

Edited November 23, 2016 by Greg Lester

[RGL]

Before I do a breakdown on my next piece, I have spent several days working on the Main tower bridge rangefinder. Without going into the kit instructions, the reference has it looking like this;

 

The Pontos instructions give you this the front hatches are added but not in the instructions and the metal walkways are included in the kit, as is a handrail which looks no where as natural as the rails I added.

 

So, building it up and adding some extras, such as individual stanchions and a few extra hatches it comes up quite nicely.

 

The main gun control tower goes on top of this and I will do a little tutorial if you wish?

[Old Collingwood]

That rangefinder looks super greg, I like the rails - did you have to bend them to give them sag or was they like that on the fret?

 

OC.

[RGL]

The rails are 0.3mm copper wire

[BANYAN]

Looks good Greg, very fiddly work indeed and I just hope my 'trembling' old fingers can cope   WRT copper wire those handrails must have been a real b....r to do?

 

Comment duly noted

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited November 23, 2016 by BANYAN

[Robin Lous]

Before I do a breakdown on my next piece, I have spent several days working on the Main tower bridge rangefinder. Without going into the kit instructions, the reference has it looking like this;1.jpg

 

The Pontos instructions give you this 2.jpg the front hatches are added but not in the instructions and the metal walkways are included in the kit, as is a handrail which looks no where as natural as the rails I added.

 

So, building it up and adding some extras, such as individual stanchions and a few extra hatches it comes up quite nicely.

3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg7.jpg

 

The main gun control tower goes on top of this and I will do a little tutorial if you wish?

That's the inside of a Rolex? 

[RGL]

Banyan, yes, yes they were, the radius of the stanchions on top of this piece is even smaller, so I will add the wire to the stanchions first then curl them into shape, the tricky part with this one was there is a 20 degree Angle between the first and second hole. A .3mm drill bit (they come in packs of 10 as they break very easily) allows you to dip the stanchion in glue then and drop it in, then if required, use a tiny piece of offcut railing to add a tiny drop of glue to strengthen. When I did my other builds I used the same stanchions but used the elastic rigging but for this build I will use copper as I want them painted.

 

I am going to ask the wife for an airbrush for Christmas and I'll go with your recommendation of the H&S.

Edited November 23, 2016 by Greg Lester

[CDW]

You will not regret going with a H&S airbrush. They are ahead of their competition in terms of ease of cleaning and high quality. 

[Old Collingwood]

You will not regret going with a H&S airbrush. They are ahead of their competition in terms of ease of cleaning and high quality. 

I dont need an airbrush anymore - as I have no hair :D

 

 

OC

[Robin Lous]

You will not regret going with a H&S airbrush. They are ahead of their competition in terms of ease of cleaning and high quality. 

QFT...Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes are superb. I own several...my first is a 12 years old Evolution and it's still going strong....not a single part replaced yet. 

 

Highly recommended!

[RGL]

How many do I need!

[Robin Lous]

one

 

Edit: I bought 2 more, because...uhmm...greed? 

Edited November 24, 2016 by Robin Lous

[cog]

I dont need an airbrush anymore - as I have no hair :D

 

 

OC

 

If you don't have hair you DO need an AIRbrush

 

---

 

Greg,

 

H&S have a few different ones, made a choice yet? The Evolution I haven't tried, I liked the preset on the Infinity, thus I chose that one. If I feel wealthy, I might just get me an Evolution. Although I'm still very attracted to the idea of getting a medium size spray gun for large area's

[RGL]

And another book to buy, released next year

[cog]

Which means you keep the build on hold ...

 

Interesting book though. I especially wonder if differences will be mentioned between these two giants ...

[RGL]

So after a few requests, I have broken down the next component, the main gun control tower.

 

Firstly, the main tools I use:

 

1. A small shop photo etch bender

2. PE holders that keep the piece flat when cutting

3. Tweezers

4. Scalpels, (chisel ends work best for cutting)

5. Uschi applicators for large pieces and thin glue that go into the end of the scalpels

6.Beading flat pliers

7. Tamiya PE benders which I cannot master as they refuse to align properly.

All on a black perspex cutting board.

 

My PE applicators , offcuts of PE frets.

 

Xuron metal cutters, thin and medium CA , any old piece of plastic that I can drop glue onto.

 

Moving onto the piece itself, 34 is the Tamiya instructions, then the reference and then the Pontos detailed instructions. I discovered that of the four photos provided, that whilst there are two aerials, one is pre and one is post 1944 but they make no reference to this.

 

 

 

 

[RGL]

So, the build, firstly drilling out the .3mm holes in the top piece. You can see from the Pontos instructions they provide 1 piece of Pe but I prefer this.

 

Then using the perspex holders, cut the individual stanchions off the fret. Tamiya does these in steel and whilst very sturdy, they are very hard on blades.

 

Because they will be curved, I add all the stanchions to the .3mm copper wire.

 

The using the patented Ca applicator, add tiny drops of glue to the holes....

 

And there it in on my fingernail. Note I use bluetack to hold the pieces stable whilst working on them. They are my third hand.

 

Then the small hatches which are used with spares (none in the kit or Pontos, applied with a grease pencil。

 

Next are the ladders which are Tamiya and steel, obviously to save on brass, but hard to cut.

 

There are applied to the PE bender and folded on each side, using the blunt end of tweezers.

 

They are then applied with a piece of bluetack on the eｎd of a paint brush handle.

 

Then the aerials from the fret, as I said, there is no reference from pontos to say there are two type, but I figured it out, the PE bending as very fragile but achieved in the PE bender and very soft hands.

 

Hope it answers those questions.

Greg

 

 

 

[Robin Lous]

A pe hedgehog! 

 

I love the Ushi ca applicator, it's great.

 

Robin

[BANYAN]

That's great Greg; very informative seeing someone with experience put it all together.  Many thanks.

 

Those clear perspex holders also look useful - where did you get them?

 

cheers

 

Pat

[amateur]

Hi Greg,

 

i already suspected this type of modelling is not my cup of tea. Now I know for sure

Thanks for sharing your techniques!

 

Jan

[hof00]

Good evening, Greg,

My "Cup of tea!!"

 

Have Bismarck, 1/350/1/200, Titanic, 1/400 so really hanging on to your threads, thank you.

 

Cheers....HOF.

[RGL]

Banyan, the holder is from a rivet maker set, basically a tiny metal wheel with teeth that I am using to make rivet lines which you won't see until it is painted and washed.

 

Amateur, I hope you're not put off from the scale

 

Hof, where are your logs?

[cog]

When I see you at work, I strongly consider building without the PE Inspiring. Got those posts bookmarked!!

 

Cheers

Edited November 26, 2016 by cog

[RGL]

Sorry Banyan, I missed your question, I got them with the PE bender from some place online in Queensland but they would be very easy to fabricate

[RGL]

The aft control tower is similar to the front one, just a little smaller and the only real addition is the control arms that go the end covers. A simple fabrication.

 

You can see the little fly wheel I have used to create rivet lines.

 

The tower it sits on has gun controllers which I will add later, the sum total of the parts don't seem to add up to much, and I have added rivet lines throughout and I have added handrails, replaced the support struts in white card and extra rails on op that are not mentioned by tamiya. About a days work.

 

Final shots of where she sits on the ship

[BANYAN]

My, you have been busy Greg.  That is looking good; quite the complex ship but I suppose it had to be with all that armament.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[Keith_W]

My eyes hurt, but probably not as much as yours. So much detail! 

[popeye the sailor]

superbly done Greg.........very highly detailed