HMS Bounty by Steve 12345 - FINISHED - Billing Boats - 1:50

[reklein]

Great Bounty build Steve ! That's a great choice you made for a first R/C plane. With your skill in building things you shouldn't have much trouble getting it done. One thing tough, be sure to get an experienced R/C flyer to check out your plane and test fly it . Then get him to teach you to fly it. I can guarantee failure if you try to fly it yourself. That model works great on floats too.

On another subject , did you build your tool boxes I see in your studio pics. They are really handsome.

[Steve 12345]

Thanks EJ and Popeye it's always encouraging to have your support and thanks others for the likes Hi reklein thanks for checking in and the reassurance on kit choice as a first build I've found a local club that have an old abandoned army airfield and offer lessons along with checking the model over and taking her on a maiden flight . The toolboxs I built the top one a couple years ago and the bottom box just at the start of this build ,the top box I made a YouTube vid on my channel you can check that out here

 

[reklein]

Excellent cabinetry, Thanks for the little video. I have a friend in wood working club who makes those nice boxes.

 

[Steve 12345]

hello all lastnight I rather casualy wrote ill just need to do the ratlines tomorrow evening and that will complete the foremast ,I thought about that statement this morning and thought again but however the ratlines were not that big of a deal and are infact complete

 

first pic shows how I waste more thread than use but I get frustrated trying to use small pieces and would rather buy more than worry about wastage

 

little dab of watered down white glue on the outside knots only its not necessary to glue all the knots

and here they are trimmed up and my little delicate knot tying fingers

here is a drawing I keep near by for when I have brain  freeze and forget how to tie

I also added this detail to the forestay copied from my victory plan and as far as I know not used on bounty I just liked the look of it and felt it added something but on reflection may cut this back out

not sure so I will sleep on it

thanks again for viewing and commenting

 

 

steve

 

 

[popeye the sailor]

I dunno.......I think the snake is rather cool,  although I'm not sure if Bounty had it or not.   the ratlines look really good......but I think they might be too far apart.  I hate to see you get too far ahead,  and then find this out.   perhaps someone can confirm this.

 

I waste more thread.........fat fingers can be a curse  

[donrobinson]

Looking at the AOTS it seems they should about 15" apart which would be approximately 8 mm at this scale. Nice work Steve, I like your little drawing it is amazing how we can tie hundreds of these knots then all of a sudden the mind goes blank and you forget

[leginseel]

5 hours ago, Steve 12345 said:

hello all lastnight I rather casualy wrote ill just need to do the ratlines tomorrow evening and that will complete the foremast ,I thought about that statement this morning and thought again but however the ratlines were not that big of a deal and are infact complete

 

first pic shows how I waste more thread than use but I get frustrated trying to use small pieces and would rather buy more than worry about wastage

 

little dab of watered down white glue on the outside knots only its not necessary to glue all the knots

and here they are trimmed up and my little delicate knot tying fingers

here is a drawing I keep near by for when I have brain  freeze and forget how to tie

I also added this detail to the forestay copied from my victory plan and as far as I know not used on bounty I just liked the look of it and felt it added something but on reflection may cut this back out

not sure so I will sleep on it

thanks again for viewing and commenting

 

 

steve

 

 

Beautiful work as always Steve. I'm a good way behind you and your build has become my number 1 point of reference. 

[leginseel]

I think I'm going to stop commenting from my iPod as it appears to repeat the whole post again including all the photos.  Has anyone any ideas how it can be stopped??

Sorry for clogging you up Steve.

[Steve 12345]

Popeye you have a very keen eye I think you are 100% right on the rat lines I knew there was something bugging me about them , I had went with billings suggested 10mm gap and the line I'm using is slightly smaller than the billings stuff I don't think that helped either ,don has suggested the 8 mm and I checked mine some even creep away to eleven mm in places so that 3mm difference could easily equate to six inches in the real world thanks for calling me out on this I played about a bit with them earlier to see if they will still move about which they actually can but if  I have any trouble with that I will redo them thanks 

[popeye the sailor]

I'm glad that you don't feel like I'm critiquing in any way........it's not my nature    artistic licence is paramount in my book.   it just that I've seen other Bounty builds,  and the ratlines have been done closer together.   you've done a superb job with them,  and I didn't want it to come back to haunt you......especially near the finish where things would be in the way.   5 - 8 mm is good,  considering the scale.   are you going to keep the snake?   I can't recall seeing a build with it,  but you've done a super job with too.......hate to see you remove it. 

[Steve 12345]

Hi Popeye yeah think I'll keep the snake it seems rather a unique feature to me now that you have showed your like for it , as for the rat lines I love tying those things for some reason it sorta gives me a free evenings work where no brain power is required now getting the shroud line deadeye all the same height I find that frastrating it's a very very fine balance trying to leave a we bit to Allow for tension but not to much that there not level or leave to much and there to low I have tried every jig in the book for deadeye and ratline but have had no success so I try to eyeball both 

[popeye the sailor]

some folks will use graph paper or draw lines on a paper to use as a backing,  when tying the ratlines.    I've seen others make a jig or template to gauge them.   the shrouds themselves can be slightly limp.......it's the back stays that do most of the work.   it's amazing how they are put together,  considering that the shrouds are adjustable.   we try so hard to keep the straight line for the ratlines,  but in real life,  if they were to be adjusted, the line would be offset by it.   it's best to keep the ratlines slightly limp........to make them taught in any way will distort the shrouds....it doesn't take much.

   I used to eyeball the dead eyes......but the last one I did convinced me that I needed to make a jig for them.   I made one......now to get back to the ship that I goofed up on.   it's compounded though,  since it fell on the floor a couple of times.......poor duck is gonna need a reno.

 

I still do other things by eye.........I find it quicker,  and my 'mind's eye' knows what I want   

[Steve 12345]

Hello all back with another update

I had to order up more thread for the ratlines and deadeyes so whilst I was waiting I set to work on rigging every block possible ,I have chosen not to use the sails ,I had given the sails to my mother to stitch up for me but after she showed me the first couple I decided it was pointless to continue as the material itself was so unrealistic looking

 

 

also whist waiting on the thread I was able to continue with placing the main mast here she is mainmast forestay first

 

shrouds

 

 

backstays

 

 

then forestays

 

 

then after receiving more thread in the post  it was time to attack those foremast ratlines ,as many of you will have predicted the sliding the original ones about was never gonna work so plan b happened

 

 

then it was out with the old and in with the new

 

 

im much happier with the new ratlines set at 8mm my little tourist buddy says he could climb them with his hands behind his back

 

 

so that brings us up to date and all caught up again after the small redo ,tomo I plan on fitting the mainmast upper shrouds and possibly a start on the mainmast  ratlines

thanks for viewing

 

[Fernando E]

Looking good! Out of interest, what size black cord are you using for the fixed rigging. Is it 1mm or .75mm?

[Steve 12345]

For the standing rigging I'm using 1 mm but for the fore stays 1.25 I try to use at least four to five different sizes amoungst the whole build to catch the eye subconsciously 

[Fernando E]

Ah....that's why it looks so good. Looks like I need to order some more black cord!

[donrobinson]

Ratlines look good as does everything else

[popeye the sailor]

sorry Steve for causing you to redo the rat lines......especially when I saw you ended up cutting them.   they do look much better now though.   super job with the fore and main mast...the standing rigging looks superb  

[Worldway]

I like the rat lines.  It's a good reminder to keep an eye on spacing / scale.  Rework is all part of the game.  You're doing an amazing job.

[Steve 12345]

Hello all thanks again for the views and comments

no apology needed popeye I thank you for your intervention and I am glad other billings bounty builders can see the reccomemded ten mm vrs the eight mm and decide for themselves how they would like to proceed  credit to don also for suggesting eight mm

 

my goal for this evening was to fit the mainmast upper shrouds and make a start on the mainmast ratlines I smashed that and had a really progressive evening I hope to complete all the main mast ratlines by tomo evening then its onto the mizzen

 

oh and hi Derek good to see you back buddy hope all is going well on the bluenose

 

 

[Steve 12345]

hello all with completion of all the rat lines on the main it was soon onto the mizzen

 

 

the mizzen was fitted in the exact same manner as the previous mast main stay first

 

 

then shrouds

 

 

backstays

 

 

then remaining stay

 

 

with that milestone reached its onto running rigging and the bow sprit has been rigged

 

 

 

with the remaining yards 8 of them in total pre rigged I see only a few more evenings work to go here ,I did have a snag list ive been working on and only one item remains the ships boat .

there will of course also be the final paint touchup and ropecoils

 

thanks for viewing

 

steve

 

[Fernando E]

Hi Steve

Beautiful work on the rigging.....the different sizes of rope on the rigging just further adds to the quality of your work.

 

Cheers........Andy

[EJ_L]

Rigging looks fantastic! She is coming together quickly now. I'm looking forward to seeing all her yards in place.

[russ]

I agree. The rigging is coming along beautifully. Well done.

 

I also really like your color scheme. Great choices with your colors.

 

Russ

[popeye the sailor]

doesn't look much like a toy any more    very well done Steve!  

[leginseel]

Tremendous Steve, at this rate you'll be finished by the weekend!!

I only landed in UK last night and I'm missing my Bounty already. 

[Steve 12345]

hello all thanks again for viewing and commenting I need to ask some advice please before proceding .

this evening I managed to fit two of the yard arms but I am not happy with how they distort the stay sail lines is this normal or do I need to consider rigging a different way from the billings illustration please see photos and advice would be much appreciated

 

[mtaylor]

What a  lot of do is "paint" the line with a 50/50 mix of white glue and water.  This stiffens them up so they hold a curve or stay straight.  You won't need as much tension then for a straight line for ones terminating on the stays.  

[Steve 12345]

Interesting suggestion do you think I could try pulling the kink out of the line with a temp line and painting the stay line and yard rigging with the glue and water then remove temp line ? 

[popeye the sailor]

that kind of distortion is normal.......the trick is not to have so much.   remember.....running rigging is not as taught as the standing rigging.....especially if sails are not to be added.  try to loosen up on the line just a tiny bit......allow some pull.  push on the block to set the thread for the least deflection,  and put a tiny dab of white glue where the line goes through the block.  it will help in countering the pull when you terminate the line.   it will give a sort of 'push me, pull you'  effect.   I've done this in extreme cases.