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Posted (edited)

After completing the English Longboat, this build of the English Pinnace seems like the next logical project for me. I placed an order with Wood Project Source for some hard maple. This order covers the planking and various other aspects of the build. The laser cut parts from the kit will be used, of course. I'm very curious how it is to work with hard maple. 

 

A photo of the plans, practicum, and my planking fan is included for your enjoyment while I procrastinate on creating a building board for this project. Welcome!

Steve

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Edited by Tigersteve
Posted

 I think I'll follow along if you don't mind. I'd be interested in seeing your thoughts on this versus the longboat.  Eventually I want to build both of these and I'm not sure which one to go for first. 

Michael

Shipwrights of Ohio

 

Current Build: ...

Completed Builds: Queen Anne Barge - Syren, Pinnace - MS, Halifax 1768 - LSS, Murrelet - Pygmy, Swift 1805 - AL 

 

Posted

Welcome aboard. This kit design, although similar to the longboat, provides its own challenges. I suspect planking will be equally difficult. The longboat is a more complex project and very tiny (6 1/2 inch hull). Parts just kept getting smaller as I progressed in the build.

 

My order from Wood Project Source has shipped. Also, the display case from Kreative Acrylics for the longboat has shipped. Stay tuned...

Steve

Posted

Steve,

l am planking mine with boxwood. This is my first use of boxwood and it is harder than basswoods so I am getting used to it. So far so good. Just plan to soften the wood when planking and forming the wood. I've not used maple but am sure you'll do well.

 

Current build: HMS Pegasus, English Pinnace (on hold)

Completed build: MS Bluenose, Skippercraft

Posted

I have to say that Wood Project Source has earned my loyalty. A very well packaged, accurate order of hard maple has arrived. Thank you, Roman, for the quality cutting and extra milled strips!

Steve

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Posted

Steve - are these the sizes of wood strips that are used in the kit? It looks like you ordered 5 strips of each size, is this correct? I ordered this kit as my 1st attempt at a POF kit. Your build of the 21' long boat looks outstanding! I saved your builds as future reference. 

Robert O

Posted (edited)

Robert,

I appreciate the compliment on the 26' longboat. Below is the order I placed. I went through the practicum and parts list to determine what I would order to supplement the kit. I did my best to calculate extra material for mistakes. Also, Wood Project Source included extra strips in every dimension. I suppose it was the remaining wood from the sheets they used to mill the strips.

Steve

 

1/32" x 3/16"x 24" 40 strips for planking and risers

1/32" x 1/4"x 24" 10 strips for floorboards and aft platform

1/32" x 1/8"x 24" 5 strips for inboard planking

1/32" x 1/16"x 24" 6 strips for outboard mouldings and inboard panels

1/16" x 5/16"x 24" 3 strips for thwarts and front platform

1/16" x 1/16"x 24" 2 strips for stanchions

3/32" x 3/32"x 24" 3 strips for oars

1/16" x 3" x 24" 2 sheets for cap rail

Edited by Tigersteve
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Count me in too!

 

Jesse

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

A slow start, but here we go...First task was to sand the laser cut sheets. I removed all bulkheads, false keel, keel, and stem. Currently working on creating the rabbet using Chuck's method of pinstripe tape. To create the taper I'm using sanding blocks.

Steve

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Posted

The false keel, keel, and stem were glued on top of a piece of glass. There was a slight space between the stem and keel. I added a small bead of glue to seal the gap. Squaring the bulkheads is next. 

Steve

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Posted

Looking good! Using glass is a good idea.

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

Posted

This looks great, following along. 

Posted

Thanks guys! All the bulkheads are squared and braced with wood strips. This is absolutely necessary. The squaring process was more difficult with this one than with the longboat due to the amount of thin bulkheads. I'd say they're about 98% square. 

 

The filler pieces and transom have not been added yet. In the photo there is a 1/16" x 1/16" strip that will be used to shim the bulkheads where they meet the bearding line at the stern.

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Shaping the sheer planks is providing a large challenge. In the meantime, I've included a photo of the transom installation, which took place after the hull was faired. The extra strips will be removed after the first planks are installed. Additional fairing will be needed at that point. 

Steve

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Posted

To create the curve and shape of the starboard sheer plank, I created a slight edge-bend for the part of the plank that wraps around the bow. It really is counter-intuative how this plank must bend towards the keel. The plank is then bent and twisted around the bow. 

 

The tip of the plank is cut at a slight angle and sanded on one side for a tight fit into the rabbet. After a satisfactory fit at the bow, the remaining curve of the sheer is created. Some additional fairing was needed at the bow and the rabbet scraped a bit deeper.

 

Several rounds of dry heat were applied for bending and shaping. Hard Maple is nice to work with. It's very rigid and doesn't dent when clamped like basswood.

 

A photo is shown of the second dry fit before the plank was glued. During the dry fit stage, I also add heat to "relax" the plank into shape.

Steve

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Posted
On 6/17/2017 at 6:54 AM, Tigersteve said:

Thanks guys! All the bulkheads are squared and braced with wood strips. This is absolutely necessary. The squaring process was more difficult with this one than with the longboat due to the amount of thin bulkheads. I'd say they're about 98% square. 

 

The filler pieces and transom have not been added yet. In the photo there is a 1/16" x 1/16" strip that will be used to shim the bulkheads where they meet the bearding line at the stern.

Steve

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Nice jig!  Much better than the "Fair-a-Frame".

Posted

Thank you for all the likes and comments. The port side plank has been shaped and installed. I spent a lot of time trying to get these two planks symmetrical. After installation, I removed the braces at the transom. Additional fairing in this area will be next along with lining off the hull. 

 

Shims were created and faired with the bulkheads to repair a piece that broke earlier in the build.

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The garboard was formed by edge-bending the neighboring streak. I used this plank to trace the curve onto the garboard, cut, and sand into shape. These streaks were easy to form and glue into place.

 

What has been stunting progress is the installation of the neighboring streak. Having trouble getting a tight, flush fit and getting the proper shape into the rabbet. I believe a couple bulkheads are over-faired and slight shimming needs to take place. You'll notice tick marks placed, but these will be redone after the next streaks are in place.

 

Side note- at this point this project is more difficult than the longboat. ;-)

Steve

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Posted

Hi Steve:

 

A lot of hair-raising work here - these parts must be extremely sensitive and prone to breaking....but the results are really great.

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit); HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS Greyhound; Fair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851); Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

Posted

Thank you! The basswood parts are fragile- especially at this thickness. The hard maple strips I'm using for this project are much better for creating the severe curves required for this boat. However, I have broken a couple in discovering the breaking point of the strips.

Steve

Posted

Lovely precise work Steve. I'm pulling up a deck chair to watch.

Ian

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

The first six bulkheads were shimmed port and starboard. This allowed the next plank from the garboard a better fit into the rabbet. The port side plank remains to be fitted. After this is complete the hull will be lined off.

 

Each plank fitted is a small victory.

Steve

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