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Posted

Post 29

Progressing the second band.

My initial job was to add the first strake of the lower band meeting up with the Square Tuck.

 

I then re-lined the hull  using full 3/16" plank widths for the centre five bulkheads, and tick strips and the fan to mark the others.

 

The lower band of planking is designed to take ten 3/16th strakes at mid-ships including the Garboard Strake.

 

Allowing for the rabbet into which the Garboard strake fits, I calculated that a 9/32" strip would give me a little wriggle room to form the Garboard altho' at a push I think I could have got away with a 7/32" as used by Chuck.

 

Suspecting that some wider stuff would be required over the kit package, I ordered additional width strips from Jason. These comprised 9/32" and 3/8" wide strips which should allow for the Garboard and any spiling requirements.

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To make the Garboard I cut the plank to length to butt against the Stern post and reach forward to the edge of Bulkhead J.

 

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I then ticked off forward to produce the taper which ends in a point at the forward end.

 

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Aft of the centre section the width was left at 7/32"

I found it necessary to bevel the Garboard plank edge where it fits into the rabbet from the centre bulkhead ⊕ forward to allow for the plank to lie flat on the bulkhead.

From the 5th bulkhead from the stern the plank lies flat against the false keel and butts up against the keel rabbet, and some heat applied twist is required for this section.

 

For the adjoining plank I used 3/16" heat bent and shaped to fit.

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This is always a tricky plank to fit requiring quite a severe curve where it rounds the garboard plank to fit into the keel rabbet just before it curves up the stem.

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Achieving the curve required starting the process from a much longer strip than required.

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Having fitted the two lowest strakes I return to planking from the top.

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There is a reasonable match to the strakes each side of the stem.

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 I finish this section with five strakes to go.

I hope that four 3/16th planks plus a spiled strake made from a wider plank will complete the job.

 

I'm now off to North Yorkshire for a week and will hopefully complete the hull planking on my return.:)

 

 

B.E.

 

29/06/2018

 

Posted

Lovely planking BE, can only look even better when sanded down.  Nice work on the garboard planks, look tricky to shape, and I can see the advantage of the having the upper planking in place to help provide perspective.

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Posted

Indeed, that really is a curve on that second strake.  Wow.  But it looks like it's set up the next one to go on fairly easily.

 

I hope you'll pass through Whitby!

 

Cheers

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

Posted

Your planking is looking very good B.E. Top job if I may say so.

 

I reached a milestone yesterday,all deck fittings,guns,cleats et al are now fitted on my Cheerful. I am now debating whether or not to make 4 dozen 1/8" hooked blocks for the training tackles. Masts,spars and sheaved blocks are already made so will have to decide soon methinks before starting masting and rigging. Enjoy your holiday in North Yorkshire,some lovely scenery there. Good ale too :D

 

BTW,have you any idea whether or not there should be cut-outs in either the main or forward grating to pass the anchor cables below. Nothing shown on the plans.

 

Dave :dancetl6:

Posted

Hi B.E.

 

Your Cheerful comes along very nicely. There is much to say for building smaller ships as you can concentrate on every aspect and detail while when building a 74 you have to take some shortcuts or take an eternity to finish.

 

However, I'm a bit confused about the run of the planks. As I understand you are following Chuck's planking pattern which is based on an original plan. From some angles the run of your planks looks fine (pictures 332,336) while others give the impression of a distorted run (306,331).

 

Most planking tutorials emphasize that you should avoid bending planks sideways - something you definitely have to do. I got the impression that the small tape you used as battens did allow more lateral bending than a wood strip and therefore created a pattern with laterally bent planks. On the other hand the frontal view onto Cheerful's bow looks fine while on my models, where I usually start tapering with or just below the wales, I can keep a natural run on the planks but get a rather crowded bow planking and need quite a few drop planks.

 

I don't mean to criticize your work, I just wonder if you are happy with the way the planks are running - especially the one above the garboard? Do you think this is how it was done on the prototype and wood will eventually give up its tendency to warp?

 

Cheers

Peter

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Sorry for the delay in responding to your post Peter, I have been away enjoying North Yorkshire, and our present run of hot weather has reduced my enthusiasm for  return to the work bench.

I know what you mean about the apparent distortions in the planking run. I have been aware of it, and I wasn't quite sure what caused it or indeed how to cure it, apart from stripping it all off,  which I was disinclined to do.

However, with the hull the correct way up that area falls below the curve of the hull and visually has little impact.

Regarding the plank adjacent to the Garboard, I'm not unhappy about that one at the moment, the Garboard Plank looks as it should do, and in order for the next plank to meet the stem rabbet, that is the shape required.

I'll see how I feel when the next one is added.:rolleyes:

 

B.E.

16/07/2018

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Post 30

The last few Strakes

To speed up the final planking process I used a previously made bow section plank as a template. With the intended plank pre bent, the template pattern was marked on and a scalpel used to shape the actual fit.

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I sited the last strake to be third up from the Garboard which places it on the underside of the hull.

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I used wider 7/32" stuff for this plank gradually pared down and shaped to fit.

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The final strakes were fairly well matched for size and shape.

I also used wider stuff for the aftermost plank in strake five, to allow for the increased flare as the plank  meets the Stern post.

So eight months on the planking is completed.

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At this point very little sanding has been done.

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Not too sure I have the full approval of my shipwright assistant, and I think he is probably right to cast a critical eye over my progress.

Still a lot of work to do on the hull planking to get it looking as good as I can, but I fear it will never match some of the work done by my fellow Cheerful builders.

The sanding process will now continue followed by the delightful prospect of treenailing, what joy.

I intend to use the simulated method of indicating treenails.

 

B.E.

30/07/2018

 

 

Posted

Hi B.E.

 

The planking looks good, especially in pictures 1295 - 1298, which show the most important viewpoints.

 

However, if I'm interpreting your assistants facial expression correctly he's only appraisal criterion is:

edible?      yes/no

Good luck in convincing him to do the treenailing.😉

 

Cheers

Peter

 

Posted

Great work BE, nice to catch up on your build.  Always nice to have a shipwright assistant with a critical eye to keep you at your best.

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

Posted

Good evening B.E. An excellent job of planking,I'm sure it will be as good as any planking to be seen on the forum when sanded and a finish applied. Best of luck with treenailing,I elected not to do this at the time due to poor eyesight. I'm currently making up all my rigging and bagging the finished articles then it's just a case of fitting it when I put the mast and spars in. The end of the tunnel is in sight after 3 years.:):)

 

Keep up the good work,

 

Dave :dancetl6:

Posted

Congratulations on reaching this major milestone BE. Your planking looks pretty darn good from this distance. I’m sure your assistant is merely guarding the finished product from marauders - and expecting some treats in return!

Posted

Nice planking BE. I know sometimes it must feel like planking is like running a marathon, but it feels so good to see those curves and planks in place. Nice job. 

 

 

 

Able bodied seaman, subject to the requirements of the service.

"I may very well sink, but I'm damned if I'll Strike!" JPJ

 

My Pacific Northwest Discovery Series:

On the slipways in the lumberyard

Union, 1792 - 1:48 scale - POF Scratch build

18th Century Longboat - circa 1790 as used in the PNW fur trade - FINISHED

 

Future Builds (Wish List)

Columbia Redidiva, 1787

HM Armed Tender Chatham, 1788

HMS Discovery, 1789 Captain Vancouver

Santiago, 1775 - Spanish Frigate of Explorer Bruno de Hezeta

Lady Washington, 1787 - Original Sloop Rig

 

Posted

From all perspectives (even the one that counts most) that planking looks might good.  And perhaps more than anything other than rigging, it's planking that can really make a build delight the eye.

 

All hail William!

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

Posted

Very nicely done B.E.

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

Posted

Thank you Gents for all your supportive comments, I still envy the ultra crisp planking so evident on  many of my fellow builders of Cheerful, at times I was pretty Surly about the whole process.😉

 

Still with some sanding I am starting to feel better about the look of the hull and I think she will pass (my) muster eventually.

My mind is now taken up with Treenailing and the best approach to achieve:-   1) a regular distribution, I doubt it can be done by eye alone, over such a large area, and 2) a subtle look where the hull doesn't look as if it is festooned with dark dots.

 

I have decided to follow Chuck's method and have trialled using a 0.4mm diameter drill for the holes filled with an only slightly contrasting filler, but sufficient to give an awareness of their presence. Holes greater than 0.4 seemed too prominent, and smaller  not worth doing.

 

My main concern is getting a nice run along the planks of the treenails between the butt ends, and I've not got my head around how to do this yet. 🤔

 

B.E.

01/08/2018

 

 

Posted

Have you ever tried setting out the lines with blue tape?  You could decide where the frames would lie, and lay out the treenails there.  Theoretically, anyway.

 

 

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

Posted

That's what I do.  Use tape to mark a straight line on each side of the frame for the holes.  Then I use a small awl or pointed tool to make indents where I want to drill.  This keeps the drill bit from wandering and allows you to see how everything lines up before you drill.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Able bodied seaman, subject to the requirements of the service.

"I may very well sink, but I'm damned if I'll Strike!" JPJ

 

My Pacific Northwest Discovery Series:

On the slipways in the lumberyard

Union, 1792 - 1:48 scale - POF Scratch build

18th Century Longboat - circa 1790 as used in the PNW fur trade - FINISHED

 

Future Builds (Wish List)

Columbia Redidiva, 1787

HM Armed Tender Chatham, 1788

HMS Discovery, 1789 Captain Vancouver

Santiago, 1775 - Spanish Frigate of Explorer Bruno de Hezeta

Lady Washington, 1787 - Original Sloop Rig

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Post 31

That Treenailing business

Can't put this off any longer.

I am following Chuck's method of using drilled holes and filler to replicate the Treenails.

I am using a 0.45mm ø drill, a lightweight wood filler, coloured to a pale beige, a fine awl to clean the holes, and a 9H graphic pencil.

I am also finding that I need tape on my thumb and forefinger to ease the pressure of the repetitive drilling using the pin vise.

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I started by creating the treenails for the butt joints on the hull, followed by the intermediate ones above the wale.

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The pattern I took from the plans using dividers to mark the spacing.

With the topsides completed I applied a coat of wipe-on- poly.

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The wale had received some scuffing, so at this point I have also re-coated it.

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Losing the will to live with the prospect of the rest of the hull to do; time for reflection on the effect thus far on the first section.

Are the treenails too prominent/ dark/ over fussy?

I think I can live with them but I need to do a little more sanding on the lower hull and a little time to gear myself up to start this next phase.

 

B.E.

 

12/08/2018

 

Posted

Good job B.E.! I think it looks great. I’m sure you will feel a tremendous sense of accomplishment when you’re done. Keep the faith.

ian 

Posted

I don't think they're at all fussy.  Quite the contrary, I think they add to the overall tidiness of your work.  After studying these last photos, I'm hard pressed to see how you can exclude yourself from the category of "ultra-crisp" planking. 

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

Posted

Cheers Seventynet and Martin, your encouragement is much appreciated. 🙂

 

Post 32

Mark, drill, awl, mark again, fill, and scrape.

The monotony begins.

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To help guide me I used a length of  flexible 7mm  x 0.6mm strip to mark the  presumed frame lines for the treenails down the hull.

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Five strakes per day is as much as my patience will tolerate.

This equates to around 450 treenails.

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I'm reasonably satisfied that the completed  strakes are sufficiently muted.

Two strakes show the holes drilled and blackened ready for filling.

There are in excess of 1900 holes to drill each side below the wale which means a total of around eight days to complete the job at current rate of progress.

Feels like a lifetime, but until this is done I cannot move forward.🙄

 

Onwards...…..

 

B.E.

14/08/2018

 

 

Posted

Hi, B.E. quite challenging. But I'm confident as your commitment to this hobby is as huge as the support you'll receive from many MSW-members.

Keep up the good work !

Kind regards

 

Christian

 

"The original always beats the copy"

(supportive statement)

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