Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale

[Chuck]

Yes it was laser etched.   Its pretty easy to do.

[CaptMorgan]

First thing that comes to mind -- That is Very cool !!!!

[Jim Rogers]

Are you going to be including the stand in the rigging add on kit?

Edited December 5, 2018 by Jim Rogers

[Chuck]

I am not sure.  Maybe some folks dont like this and would prefer another type of stand.  What I may do is just offer the stand and cradle parts as a whole separate mini kit for the project.  I know that some in my club for example didnt like my cradle.  Rather than force folks to pay for the parts as part of the rigging package I might make it as a separate kit.....with the veneer and the laser cut sides for the baseboard and then the two cradles.   The center piece is just a scrap of 1/4" cherry I had that was 4" wide and 11 1/2" long.  

 

The veneer is glued to the top and the four sides are then glued to it.  But to prevent the top from warping you must also glue a veneer to the bottom of the board.  This evens out the board so it doesnt cup badly.  I used a sheet of 1/32" basswood for that on the bottom.  The veneer is glued on with Titebond on both sides.  I spread out a thin coat over the entire board and then clamp the veneer to it.  I do this on both sides at once and then clamp all three pieces between two thicker boards if you get my meaning.  This presses everything nicely together.

 

If things arent crazy I may even be able to cut these as you buy them so I can add your name to the sides like I show it.

[Jim Rogers]

Sounds like a great idea. I personally think the stand looks original in concept and I know I would purchase one.

[JeffT]

I like the stand. Its a lot better than anything I could do. I'd be interested.

[CaptMorgan]

21 minutes ago, JToma said:

I like the stand. Its a lot better than anything I could do. I'd be interested.

Yep - so would I.  Sounds like you might have another 'sub-kit' in the future Chuck.....😃

[Chuck]

I will add it to the list....

 

I also managed to experiment with the mast parts.  I completed the ball truck for the top of the mast.  Its things like this that make you appreciate 1/2" scale.  The ball truck has two sheaves for the flag halliards. These were laser cut and etched for you.  But as you might guess, only on one side.  So if you want, you can add the simulated sheave slot between the two holes on the bottom of the ball truck too.  But in all honesty, I dont think anyone will see it.  I did it anyway.  You can see the unsanded version in the photo

You need to round off the edges and corners on the top  and bottom to make it look nice.  I did this after I glued it on the mast.  Its easy to rotate and twist the mast as you hold sandpaper against the ball truck to shape it.

 

Make sure you orient the sheaves on the ball truck correctly when you glue it on top.  They go parallel to each other for and aft....,one sheave to port and the other to starboard.

 

I also stepped the mast but not permanently.  On the contemporary models and in real life the mast would sit in a hole through the floorboards.  This would have been a pain in the butt!!  Lining up a hole for the mast in the floorboards even before you added the thwarts and just praying the mast would be lined up correctly.

 

So my solution was to create a thin mast step instead.  Its a little guilty simplification.  Its basically a square with a hole in the middle for the mast.  I rounded off the edges to make it look nice.  Its only 1/16" thick.  I placed the mast in position and in the mast step as the titebond was setting.  Then I adjusted the angle and straightness of the mast to find the proper placement for the mast step.  This was done before the glue sets so you have to work fast.

 

 

The mast is set straight up and down with no aft rake......having said this, I did add an ever-so-slight aft rake because when I add the forward stay, I always seem to pull the mast forward.  Knowing that I will probably do this yet again in error, I compensated for it by leaning the mast slightly aft.  It should correct itself once I rig the forward stay which will pull it forward slightly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Tim Murphy]

Chuck, I would also buy the stand as a sub-kit. I think it looks great!

Tim Murphy

[Jim Rogers]

Chuck what brand 10lb monofilament do you use.

[Chuck]

Sunset/Amnesia brand.  I buy it on ebay.  

[Chuck]

Continuing with the main mast. 

 

I painted the areas of the mast red or black to suit.  Then I simulated the mast bands with black masking tape.  The tape was cut into strips 1/16" wide and wrapped around the mast a few times to get the correct thickness.  Before anyone asks how thick.....just until it looks right.  Not too heavy.  I wrapped around twice and it was plenty.  Then I used some rusty brown weathering powder to make it look different than the painted mast and more like metal.  I will only use brass or actual metal when absolutely necessary.  In this case it isnt needed.  Then I finally made some eyebolts using 22 gauge black wire.  I drilled holes through the bands and inserted the eyebolts.  I also ran some pencil over the sheaves I made on the mast to make them look different and stand out a bit more.

 

and a close up view....

 

 

At the base of the mast, it was painted red up to the band there.  This band was made the same way but this time 3/32" wide tape was used.  The eyebolt was made using 20 gauge brass wire blackened afterwards.   I cant find pre-blackened 20 gauge wire.  The mast isnt permanently stepped yet but the mast is now completed.  I will now make the boom and gaff....

 

 

I also made the 7mm deadyes that we will need for the model.  These are just like the kits I offer.  Three layers are glued together.....then I remove most of the char from the outside.  To finish them up I throw the in my block tumbler to soften and round off the edges.  Not to long though...or they will get funky.   These are boxwood and not cedar.  The cedar is too soft to make these.  You can see four deadeyes that were released from the spru with no sanding or laser char removal.  The other group is ready to go but no finish has been applied yet.

 

 

Any questions please dont hesitate to ask.

[Tigersteve]

Chuck, the model is looking really sharp. Great work. 

Steve

[aviaamator]

This is a very useful blog! Helps me with my boat work.

[aviaamator]

No words...

Edited December 9, 2018 by aviaamator

[aviaamator]

Thank you, Chuck!

Edited December 9, 2018 by aviaamator

[thibaultron]

Chuck, a question about the mast step. Could you have positioned the mast without gluing the little square mast step, temporarily attached it, then used it as a guide to drill the hole in the floor boards? If so, how would you go about temporarily attaching it? Just a question, not a criticism.

[Chuck]

Nope...not too easily which is why I didnt do it.

 

Chuck

[thibaultron]

Thanks. I was hoping there was some trick I couldn't think of.

[Chuck]

Time for sticks and strings!!!😄

 

I finished up the boom, gaff and bowsprit today.  Nothing unusual to report and its just more of the same.  Square stock was rounded off like the mast.  The gaff has laser cut jaws that need to be attached.  Then a few eyebolts were added to follow the plans.

 

The boom has a hook made from 18 gauge copper wire (blackened) on its inboard end.   There is also an eyebolt.

 

The bowsprit has a sheave on its outboard end which is typical and it was simulated the same way that was used when making them on the mast.

 

 

So now I am ready start with the strings.

 

I added the horse under the tiller which is typical for the period and as has been discussed numerous times.  This not only follows the two contemporary models that are fully rigged but also contemporary rigging plans.  One great example can be found I believe on page 80 of mays book.

 

The horse was made from 1/16" brass rod (blackened).

 

 

And lastly a photo before I start rigging.  The Boom and Gaff will be rigged first while the there is more room.  Then the shrouds and stays will be done afterwards. I have also uploaded the rigging plan (without sails).

 

 

Chuck

[KenW]

What is the title of May's book?

Your model is outstanding as usual.

 

[MEDDO]

36 minutes ago, KenW said:

What is the title of May's book?

Your model is outstanding as usual.

 

The Boats of Men-of-War by W E May

[Chuck]

Starting rigging...

 

The boom was rigged first.  But before I started I knew I would need two 1/4" single blocks set up with hooks.  See below.  One is for the boom and the other is for the gaff.  So I made these first.  They were stropped with .025 light brown rope.  The hook was made with 22 gauge black wire.  I also used a thimble but this is optional.  I know they are a pain to make but if you want to give it a go,  use some 1/16" brass tube to make them.  The photo shows the blocks without a coat of wipe on poly.....

 

Making thimbles if you want to give it a try.  Just use a small punch to lightly tap both sides so they flare out.  Then blacken them.

 

With those done,  I started rigging the boom by adding the topping lift first.  I used .025 light brown line.  It was seized to the outboard end of the boom.  Then it was brought up to one of those blocks hooked to the mast. See below.

 

 

Then the loose end was brought down to the aft belaying pin on the starboard side.  I set the angle of the boom I thought looked good and then secured the line to the belaying pin on the thwart.  But it isnt glued on permanently yet.  It will absolutely need adjusting and retensioning as I progress.  So I left it extra long with no glue for now.  I probably wont use any glue at all.  But remember I will be rigging it with sails after I I rig it first without sails.  So I will need to be able to undo all of these lines and readjust them later.  You can see that second block on the mast hanging which is for the gaff peak halliard later.

 

 

So to finish off the boom rigging,  I added the main sheet which is shown below.  Two 1/4" single blocks were used.    One lashed to the boom and another seized to the horse.   The sheet was run between both using .018 light brown rope.  The loose end was made fast to the horse and left extra long again.  No glue being used yet.  Once the shrouds and stays are added everything will be retensioned.

 

 

 

 

 

[Dowmer]

Chuck,

How do you know if the block stopping was served or not?  I always get confused on this. 

Looks great by the way. 

[Chuck]

I never serve the block strop.  To much of a finicky detail for me.  

[Chuck]

Making rigging progress.

 

Will have more details once I get back from the dentist.  But here is what the longboat looks like today.

 

Just have the bowsprit to install and some running rigging.  Almost there.

 

Gaff was rigged first...then it was time for the shrouds followed by the backstays.  Most of the lines were attached prior to placing this on the model.

 

 

 

Deadeys and shrouds are hooked to the straps.  So they were prepared ahead of time.  Including the straps and hooks for the backstays.

 

Finally the forestay...

 

Note how the straps were bent to fit around the molding.  

The shrouds, backstays and forestay were served but only where they are seized around the mast.  The area served extends about 1" below the where it was seized.   This is an optional detail.  You dont have to do this.  But it does look good.

 

Chuck

[Rustyj]

BEAUTIFUL!

[CaptMorgan]

Wow ---- simply wow.   You keep raising the bar Chuck !!!   Awesome work...😉

[Chuck]

Thank You!!  😊

 

Time to step the bowsprit.  The bowsprit irons can be made many different ways.  You can use brass for all the parts and do some soldering if you want.  That is one method.  I did use some brass but I also simplified the process so I wouldnt have to solder anything.  

 

The photo below shows the two brass bars 1/16" x 1/16".  The longer one was pretty simple.  I just cut the strip to length after filing a pin in one end.  You could also file this pin into both sides if you like.  It will be blackened later before I add them to the model.

 

The second smaller piece was the same.  I filed a small pin into one side. BUT I also drilled a small hole through the other.  This is for the little brass pin.  I used a #66 drill bit.  The trick is to use a light tough and let the bit cut through the brass.  To much pressure and you will break the bit.  Then I rounded off that end.

 

Both of these pieces need to be measured off your own model.  They are shown on the plans but because there will be so many small differences you need to measure your own model for their length.

 

Finally...black tape was cut to 1/16" wide and wrapped around the bowsprit to simulate the iron rings.  The brass strips will be pinned into these.  Once blackened and with the use of some weathering powder you wont be able to tell they are two pieces or not metal.  You could also use boxwood strips and just use some black wire for the pins.  If you paint them black and weather them you wont be able to tell.   Its up to you.  

 

You must figure out exactly where the tape bands should be before you commit to gluing everything in position.  Measure carefully.  

 

Then drill a small hole in the bottom of the aft end of teh bowsprit.  Make sure the sheave on the other end is facing the correct way first.  That would be a big mistake.  

 

You will need to drill a hole through the thwart for the larger brass strip with the pin facing up (unless you put a pin on both sides then it doesnt matter).  But once again you must drill the hole in the right place.  You only have one shot at this.  Make sure you test the bowsprit in position and figure out where on the thwart you need to drill the hole.  I used a #49 drill bit.  Then I squared up the hole with a small needle file.

 

Once done you can see how convincing it looks.  The pin was glued into the hole on the tape (simulated iron ring) on the end of the bowsprit.  The bottom can be pinned into the platform or just glued into another hole through the platform.  Its up to you.

 

 

Finally.....the small brass piece was glued into a hole drilled into the other iron strap (tape).  Then a small brass pin was used to secure the other end through the stem as shown below.  Make sure these are glued in good.  You must carefully find the length for this brass piece because it determines the angle for the bowsprit.  If the brass strip is too long or short then the bowsprit will not sit at the correct angle.

 

You can see that I also added the foresail halliard.  The single block was hooked into an eyebolt at the aft side of the stem.  Note the optional thimble on the block.

 

 

 

 

[Chuck]

Making the traveler ring...

 

I sell these already made for Cheerful but for this kit you will need to make your own.  This one is much smaller but its really simple to make,  You will get a split ring about 1/4" round that is made from 1mm micro tubing.   You will also need to make a hook and a simulated shackle from 24 gauge black wire.  Because this model is 1/2" scale the hooks are a prominent feature of the rigging.  You should take your time with these and try to make some really good looking hooks.  Practice a bit and I am sure you will get the hang of it.  They are so much better than using photoetch versions that you can buy.

 

Also note that I have slid a decent length of 28 gauge black wire into the split ring.  Leave a portion of it hanging out as shown.  Once again this is my method of making a traveler ring that requires no soldering at all.  It will stay together perfectly and they look great.   So if you need one for another project, consider this method.

 

Then slip your shackle and hook onto the ring.  You will of course need to make sure that the eyes in your hook and shackle fit onto the ring when you make them.  Try and keep these pieces small because most of the time I see folks making huge hooks and shackles for the traveler ring and it will look really funny.  The hook goes between the two eyes of the shackle.  Then bend the ring like you are going to close it up but before you do....slide the end of the 28 gauge wire into the other side of the ring.  Guide it through quite a bit as this is what keeps everything together.  I slowly inch it in the other end using a needle nose pliers.  Once blackened this will look very good.

 

 

Here is a look at the traveler ring in position.   The jib halliard is hooked to the traveler ring while the outhaul is seized to the shackle.  You must rig both of these to get the proper tension on the lines.  This is all sown on the rigging plans.  The outhaul uses .018 light brown rope while the jib halliard uses .025 light brown rope.

 

The other "loose end" of the outhaul run through the sheave on the tip of the bowsprit.   Then it foes down to the sheave on the stem (starboard side).   Then you can bring the running end inboard and belay it around the first thwart.  Finish it up with a rope coil.  The jib halliard is preety straight forward.  Just like the halliard for the foresail.  You make up some blocks with a hook.   Its shown on the rigging plan and all of those loose ends are belayed to the pins around the mast.