St Nectan by Kevin - FINISHED - Mountfleet Models - 1/32 - Steam Trawler - Completed June 2020

[mtaylor]

Nice rework.  After seeing the original and your change, the new version does look a lot better.

[Kevin]

Good evening everyone

 

so the first list of DIY must do's are out of the way, now I am allowed to play for a few days 

 

The living room has been the last room to be done in our revamp of our home, but this had some paint, curtains and new wallpaper as well

 

from this, time to get rid of the purple

 

 

to this

Edited February 19, 2020 by Kevin

[Landlubber Mike]

Looks nice - glad to see you kept the TV  

[Kevin]

2 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Looks nice - glad to see you kept the TV  

its there for the dog to watch it 

[Kevin]

Good evening everyone

 

now that i have two life boats that look about the same, i have started to rig them to the boat, intentions are to get them completed by tomorrow night, and move on to other items on the boat deck

 

two questions are bugging me

 

the shrouds on these trawlers were they wire or rope?

 

when a rope or wire comes of a drum to a rig, in this case a davit, does the leading edge of the line come off the top of the drum or from the bottom of the drum

 

Edited February 20, 2020 by Kevin

[Old Collingwood]

Great work Kevin,  those life boats looker super.

 

OC.

[FriedClams]

The boats turned out extremely nice Kevin.  I especially like the wrinkles and creases in the fabric covers.

 

8 hours ago, Kevin said:

two questions are bugging me

 

I would say the shrouds are steel cables.  I scratch built a 1941 sardine carrier (70 ft LOA) and plans of the vessel called for 1/2” steel cable for the shrouds.  That boat is about the same era as your trawler - so perhaps . . . 
 

I can’t say for certain about the davit winches, but every trawl winch or mine hoist or tugger I have ever seen winds/unwinds off the top of the drum, as in the first of your two illustrations.

 

Keep up the great work.

 

Gary

 

 

[Kevin]

Thank you gary, 

For the shrouds, i am going to have to rethink them, lol it took me ages to do them in rope for the victory

[popeye the sailor]

the boats look great with the canvas Kevin.......you got me thinking of the ropes as well.  you have to look at it from a functional point of view.   leading out from the bottom,  are they going to rub on anything when in operation.  would they rub on the deck?  leading out from the top is what I usually do...a lot less apts of rubbing,  and the detail is more pronounce.   your structure work is top notch.......looks awesome!

[Kevin]

1 hour ago, popeye the sailor said:

the boats look great with the canvas Kevin.......you got me thinking of the ropes as well.  you have to look at it from a functional point of view.   leading out from the bottom,  are they going to rub on anything when in operation.  would they rub on the deck?  leading out from the top is what I usually do...a lot less apts of rubbing,  and the detail is more pronounce.   your structure work is top notch.......looks awesome!

thank you, i was thinking more of the trip hazard side of things, but using google today it  appears  they do lead from the top

[popeye the sailor]

wait till you rig the gallows.......now there's a trip hazard   

[Kevin]

Good morning everyone

 

apart from the handling ropes the life boats are finished,

 

i put everything in place according to the plans, and secured in position, however the forward drum reels are set  to far aft to be of use, it looked tight even on the plans, after looking at other builds and seeing the same issue they got moved about 1cm to make them more usable, i may have to move the after hatches now as they might not have enough room

the middle picture drum reels are in place according to the plans, but in reality are to far aft to be of use

 

reels after being moved, dont quite know what to do about the stain damage on the wood

[Mirabell61]

Very nice looking build Kevin,

 

also the boats are kooking lovely.....

 

Nils

[Kevin]

51 minutes ago, Mirabell61 said:

Very nice looking build Kevin,

 

also the boats are kooking lovely.....

 

Nils

Thank you Nils

 

[Old Collingwood]

Very nice work indeed  kevin  - those boats look Superb   so worth all the effort.

 

OC.

[Kevin]

not progressed much at all since the last update, lol i dont think im confused so much now, 

 

the main mast is supported by stays, but very few is any show any ratlines, 

 

the instructions do say that the shrouds can be adapted to enable the mast to be removed for transportation purposes, so from that i presume from that no one went to the trouble, even though the superstructure is removable

 

mine will have ratlines, again the instructions call out for wire to make them, is this right?

 

 

 

 

 

[popeye the sailor]

you can.........not sure when the change occurred,  but most if not all steel hulled vessels had steel cables for the shrouds and back stays.  the turn buckles your using replaced the dead eyes that would have made up the early shroud adjustment lanyards.  you would have to research the vessel more to find out what was used.  on these vessels,  the ratlines are usually a single rung using two shroud lines.......the rest are back stays.   your life boat assembly looks awesome........love the way you rigged them up  

[Jim Lad]

Kevin,  many more modern small ships used wooden slats for the ratlines (if they had any at all).  They were simply lashed to the centre two shrouds.

 

John

[Bob Cleek]

If turnbuckles were used, the stays and shrouds connected to them would certainly be wire cable. The wire cable would be spliced around a solid wire thimble with a hole in the center through which the turnbuckle pin would be fastened. Alternately, the wire cable would have a "poured socket" terminal attached which would match the connection to the turnbuckle. (tongue to fork, pin through hole, etc."

 

These poured terminals would have the wire cable run through them and the wire cable unlaid (this unlaid end was then called the "broom.") Molten zinc, or modernly, epoxy, was then poured into the terminal and, when hardened, would lock the terminal to the cable.

 

These sockets are rather easily made to modeling scale from short lengths of copper tubing filed to shape at the terminal end and filed to a taper at the "neck." These scale terminals can be fastened to the cable the same way the real ones are. Just run the cable through the center of the terminal, unlay a bit of the end of the cable and then pull that down into the socket, and fill the socket with a bit of silver solder, CA adhesive, or epoxy.

 

Types of patent poured socket terminals:

 

 

 

Edited March 4, 2020 by Bob Cleek

[Kevin]

good morning everyone

 

thank you for the comments

 

there is a deadeye arrangement set up for the fore mast and these turnbuckles for the after one, again i presume that it is a mixture to allow removing the mast for transport to shows and ponds

 

so on the main mast there are 3 shrouds and the back stays, i dont have are wire that would pass the test, could a silver stained rope representing wire pass?

the fore mast is going to be a while away

if i get something that resembles the wire i could ten use them as ratlines, but will not get the tautness, so maybe a single wire would work, go go to wooden battens

 

 

lol any suggestions?

 

this is Mountfleets show kit

Edited March 5, 2020 by Kevin

[Kevin]

i had a light bulb moment, but it dont work

i stripped back some wire, and twisted the strands, but unless i make new adjustable turnbuckles, i am unable to get a decent tension, so it is try again

 

[yvesvidal]

Kevin,

 

How about soaking the ropes in warm water for a little while, placing them under tension to the best of your abilities and then let them dry. A dry rope is always shorter than a wet rope.

Old barometric devices were based on that principle.

 

Yves

[Kevin]

31 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

Kevin,

 

How about soaking the ropes in warm water for a little while, placing them under tension to the best of your abilities and then let them dry. A dry rope is always shorter than a wet rope.

Old barometric devices were based on that principle.

 

Yves

im trying to replicate wire rope by using it, but the mast is very flexible, as i replaced it from wood to plastic tubing so as to run electrics through it, so it is very difficult to get any decent tension on it

 

the rope is fine, but i want it to look like wire

[yvesvidal]

How about going with brass tube for the mast, instead and using stretchable wires (rubber)?

 

Yves

[Kevin]

Good evening everyone

 

Thank you for like and comments

 

there was certainly far more reference material for the Victory, there are tons lots of phots of trawlers but they lack any detail, but i try to proceed onwards

 

the shrouds, certainly appear to be wire on the after ones hence the turnbuckels so i have been playing with thread and various colours of grey and silver, the one in the final shot is a warhammer silver and will see how this goes

 

next will be ratlines, i am still undecided if i should  go with wooden slats or wire, or the same as the shrouds

 

 

[Old Collingwood]

Great work there Kevin  - she is really looking busy now.

 

OC.

[Jim Lad]

Kevin, I'm a bit late on this discussion, but steel wire rope was usually a very dark grey unless very new.  That might give you a few more options.  I would suggest that a trawler of your model's age would have shroud eyes spliced around thimbles - easily done by the crew.

 

John

[Kevin]

15 minutes ago, Jim Lad said:

Kevin, I'm a bit late on this discussion, but steel wire rope was usually a very dark grey unless very new.  That might give you a few more options.  I would suggest that a trawler of your model's age would have shroud eyes spliced around thimbles - easily done by the crew.

 

John

i wonder how Mountfleet got this wrong, and have these aft and deadeyes fwd

[mtaylor]

Hmm... just curious, Kevin.   Regarding the tensioning... do the turnbuckles actually work?  

[Kevin]

3 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Hmm... just curious, Kevin.   Regarding the tensioning... do the turnbuckles actually work?  

no Mark, just 1 piece white metal