Mosquito B Mk IV - FINISHED - Revell - My next non-ship project

[Old Collingwood]

1 hour ago, Canute said:

OC, paint job looks OK now. Nice recovery.

Thanks Ken.

 

OC.

[lmagna]

Starting to look like a Mossy. Love that wing shape.

[Old Collingwood]

29 minutes ago, lmagna said:

Starting to look like a Mossy. Love that wing shape.

Thanks Lou,   certainly a trial and error build  - its a bit like cooking  - somedays you get the meal "bang on"   and its  gorgeous  other times you just cant get it the same, I have been learning a few lessons,       rattle can and out doors  = sttuck insects,      you cant very well do touch ups  using the rattle can paint sprayed into the lid then touched up on model using a brush (as the paint dries quicker than you can paint it on with said brush,   lastly the revell canopy  is real pants - rubbish - pitta.

 

OC.

[lmagna]

1 hour ago, Old Collingwood said:

lastly the revell canopy  is real pants - rubbish - pitta.

I still don't know why you don 't look at using one of these:

 

https://www.squadron.com/1-48-Squadron-Canopies-Mosquito-SQ9600-p/sq9600.htm

https://www.ebay.com/c/2129470313

https://www.hlj.com/1-48-scale-mosquito-b-pr-mk-iv-canopy-for-tamiya-rob48069

 

[Old Collingwood]

9 minutes ago, lmagna said:

I still don't know why you don 't look at using one of these:

 

https://www.squadron.com/1-48-Squadron-Canopies-Mosquito-SQ9600-p/sq9600.htm

https://www.ebay.com/c/2129470313

https://www.hlj.com/1-48-scale-mosquito-b-pr-mk-iv-canopy-for-tamiya-rob48069

 

Wowser  - did  you check out the price on tha bottom two  the ebay one wanted something like £40  including delivery over here   and the second one was from japan  quoting £400  odd     "Gulp"     I had looked into it  when my canopy first broke  but didn't like the look of vacforms as they are very thin  and look to flex a lot  also lack any  scale.

I am fairly happy with the  recovery of the canopy now, it went down fine no gaps that a little putty couldn't hide,  I had to touch up around the canopy but my tin/jars of actylic  (the closest match)  is slightly different  to the rattle can, but "hey ho"    its close  enough.

 

Next will be to mask up the other wing ready for the green  - same on the tops of the two stabs.

 

OC.

[lmagna]

I am not certain what conversion you are using, but they come up as about $4-$12 on my computer. Both companies are noted as putting out high end aftermarket products, and  I see no reason to think these would be different.

 

Your kit and build so it is also your choice. Your canopy looks fine in your pictures.

Edited April 25, 2020 by lmagna

[Old Collingwood]

5 minutes ago, lmagna said:

I am not certain what conversion you are using, but they come up as about $4-$12 on my computer. Both companies are noted as putting out high end aftermarket products, and  I see no reason to think these would be different.

 

Your kit and build so it is also your choice. Your canopy looks fine in your pictures.

I appreciate you  checking it out  Lou,   I think I will just be glad to see it done now, so it can go in the display unit, so I can move onto the spits.

 

Like I said thank you for having a look at those pieces.

 

OC.

[CDW]

OC

Your Mossie looks very fine. I like it. I know you've labored over this model to get it right, and your efforts have paid dividends. A fine job my friend that would make your father proud.

[Old Collingwood]

5 minutes ago, CDW said:

OC

Your Mossie looks very fine. I like it. I know you've labored over this model to get it right, and your efforts have paid dividends. A fine job my friend that would make your father proud.

Thank you Craig.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Just took these  - they show the canopy glued down and touched up around the edges  - also the rudder in place and hand painted.

 

OC.

[Javlin]

Like the looks of the crate OC Kevin

Edited April 25, 2020 by Javlin

[Old Collingwood]

4 minutes ago, Javlin said:

Like the looks of the crate OC Kevin

Thank you Kevin,   they had the fresh lakey ERK's  give it a quick touch up  then it did a few flights and roughed it a bit.😉

 

OC.

[Edwardkenway]

Cracking on OC and looking good 😁

[Old Collingwood]

5 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

Cracking on OC and looking good 😁

Thank you Edward.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Hi all,

 

I have been having a little play at painting the nose cone glazing frame black,  it went ok even by hand,   then I decided to start the fuselage  decal application starting with the tail,  this area has the square  fin flash  and a couple of warning labels on each side, they went down with micro set  then a couple of layers of micro sol,   they will need more applications as I can still see the edge around the fin flash  even with the micro sol.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

More progress with the decals -  I put a few layers of micro sol over the tail, then today I brushed over a coat of semi gloss top coat just to seal them down,   next was the serial  this went down ok,   then the large one piece  fuselage decal,  this was a little more trouble-some  even with a coat of  micro sol  you can clearly see the decal paper  between the letters  - this might settle down with a coat of semi gloss top coat.

The decal is still wet  from the micro sol.

OC.

Edited April 26, 2020 by Old Collingwood

[Javlin]

All looks good OC but something for future builds.The surface of the plane was over glossed to sheen of your decals hence the flat look to the decal backing shows.The idea is to make the two surfaces match before the decals are applied to hide the backing film just food for thought all looks Very Good though. kevin

[Old Collingwood]

6 minutes ago, Javlin said:

All looks good OC but something for future builds.The surface of the plane was over glossed to sheen of your decals hence the flat look to the decal backing shows.The idea is to make the two surfaces match before the decals are applied to hide the backing film just food for thought all looks Very Good though. kevin

Thanks for the advice Kevin, my first  work using decals with setting producs,  I  polished the  fuselage as I thought  the advice is to put them down on a gloss / shiny surface?   guess it doesn't help with the decs  being a flat finish  not shiny.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

Right  last  major spray work on the  mossie  -  masked up  wing and stabs  ready for rattle can green,    after  I took the parts out into the back patio  and sprayed away  then put them  in my box,     went on ok I think.

 

Pic of the masked up parts prior to  spraying.

 

OC.

Edited April 26, 2020 by Old Collingwood

[Javlin]

8 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Thanks for the advice Kevin, my first  work using decals with setting producs,  I  polished the  fuselage as I thought  the advice is to put them down on a gloss / shiny surface?   guess it doesn't help with the decs  being a flat finish  not shiny.

 

OC.

It's all part of the curve OC 8 out of 10 times they are a Glossy backing just thinking of the Spits out there.

[Old Collingwood]

Just now, Javlin said:

It's all part of the curve OC 8 out of 10 times they are a Glossy backing just thinking of the Spits out there.

I dont rate these revell  ones that highly  dont think they are cartograpgh  ones, have a lot of edging to them  - in hindsight  I should have trimmed them.

 

OC.

[Landlubber Mike]

1 hour ago, Javlin said:

It's all part of the curve OC 8 out of 10 times they are a Glossy backing just thinking of the Spits out there.

Kevin, just to clarify, is the issue that the decals OC used were flat and not glossy, and therefore one would seal the paint with a flat clear coat before applying the decals?

 

And once the decals are applied, even if flat, can one add a gloss coat to seal the decals and begin weathering?  This is the first time I’ve come across that there are flat decals out there and am trying to learn what to look out for  

[Landlubber Mike]

And OC, I should have mentioned that your build is looking really sweet.  That paint scheme is really sharp.

 

[Old Collingwood]

13 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

And OC, I should have mentioned that your build is looking really sweet.  That paint scheme is really sharp.

 

Thanks mike,   I am wondering the same thing with the decals, I am hoping  that by first  painting on a layer of semi gless top coat (as I have a jar of this for hand painting)   then after a few days  spraying  the tamiya rattle can  flat  top coat  will  bring it all  to the same finish.

 

OC.

[Canute]

A flat surface will cause the decals to silver. You can spend hours removing it. I think the gloss as a base is OK, but you'll need a top coat to blend them in.

[Old Collingwood]

23 minutes ago, Canute said:

A flat surface will cause the decals to silver. You can spend hours removing it. I think the gloss as a base is OK, but you'll need a top coat to blend them in.

That was my thinking Ken   - top coat  to blend it all in.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, Old Collingwood said:

That was my thinking Ken   - top coat  to blend it all in.

I usually paint a section that will be under the decals with future to create the glossy surface for the decals to adhere, then overcoat them with Testors flat rattle can lacquer for the final finish......

 

Most important is the smooth surface under the decal to prevent silvering, doesn't have to be glossy, but it does have to be smooth. (flat paint doesn't create a smooth surface) The reason most use a gloss coat for decaling is the perfectly smooth surface gloss lacquer produces and it's easy application.... I prefer Future floor wax because it dries thinner than most lacquer overcoats.....

 

It coming out beautiful my friend......

Edited April 26, 2020 by Egilman

[Diver]

On 4/24/2020 at 12:44 PM, Old Collingwood said:

After a good sleep  I attacked the Mossie again   I was able to gently rub off the splats on the wing  (the stabs were ok)   I then went in the back yard  with my Dark grey rattle can  (this was still ok - had not run out)  so I sprayed the stabs  - went ok, then I did the same  in two coats  on the main wing, again this  looked ok  - I put them away in the box to harden.

 

I then came in doors and firstly decided to glue down the canopy  (no fuss just used liquid poly)  I also decided to have a look at how the main u/c  fits inside  the  wing box - I decided to trim off the edges then It slotted straight in,   so I glued the front main u/c  section in with ca glue, followed by the rear support legs  - these needed moving about then securing again using ca.

 

I decided to do a dry fit with the wing temp  placed  to check for hight fit  - looks ok I think?

 

OC.

Enjoying your build of what I consider the best looking twin engine aircraft ever.  I may be a little bias as my Dad was a aero-engine tech during the war.  He was with 410 Sqn RCAF.  If you have ever seen the picture of the Mossie with the wire in the wing, my dad was the person who removed it.

[Old Collingwood]

Thank you Diver,   as I explained  somewhere  further back  my farther was an Engineer in the RAF  during the war  his service  knick name as an ERK, he specialized  in airframes and engines, and on base he would do anything from  bench strip downs to engines  and right through  to  light to medium/heavy  airframe work  either on the pan  or in the hangar, all dependent on what was needed  or the condition of aircraft returning from duties.

The mosquito was one of his fave planes to work on  but he also serviced  Spits, Hurricanes, Lancs, Wellies, Shorties, and prior to this he cut his teeth in the FAA  on Seafires  and  Corsairs.

 

OC.

[Old Collingwood]

36 minutes ago, Egilman said:

I usually paint a section that will be under the decals with future to create the glossy surface for the decals to adhere, then overcoat them with Testors flat rattle can lacquer for the final finish......

 

Most important is the smooth surface under the decal to prevent silvering, doesn't have to be glossy, but it does have to be smooth. (flat paint doesn't create a smooth surface) The reason most use a gloss coat for decaling is the perfectly smooth surface gloss lacquer produces and it's easy application.... I prefer Future floor wax because it dries thinner than most lacquer overcoats.....

 

It coming out beautiful my friend......

Thank you sincerley EG,   I think as was mentioned earlier  if the decals had been of a higher standard and with a glossy sheen to them, the backing  would have settled down over the shiny paint surface that was also very smooth from buffing for that purpose,  when you look at them on the backing strip  they are deffinatly more flat in  finnish  than shiny like others tend to be.

What I will do  is  put a fourth layer of micro sol  ontop of the large decals  leave over night, put the other smaller ones on (more micro sol on them)   then when the whole fuselage is decalled, I will hand paint a layer of semi gloss  top coat  all over  and put it aside to harden for several days.

 

Then I will work on the wings and stabs that have been sprayed up today.

 

OC.