CEDAR. wHAT IS IT GOOD FOR??

[mathewp]

I've got this lovely pile of Cedar sitting around gathering dust.I got it for nothing while I was working in a Wood Mill. This Cedar is the same as the Anti Moth Cedar balls people put in their wardrobes to keep the moths out. It smells nice when you work it, and has a similar smell to Mahogany. Will this be any good to use for a scratch build? It would be a shame to throw it away. Better to make something out of it.

[Anja]

Hello Mathew,

 

That is a very nice pile of Cedar you have there.

I don't have any experience with Cedar wood, but maybe another member has an answer for you.

 

You say it's the same Cedar used for anti moth balls. Then you must have the Spanish Cedar.

You can find information about the properties of Spanish Cedar here: http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/spanish-cedar/

 

Good luck and take care,

 

Anja

[fnkershner]

Unfortunately it has little value for modeling. The grain is not fine enough.

[RiverRat]

Know anyone who makes native american style flutes? Some of  your pieces look long enough.

 

Brian

[Ulises Victoria]

Unfortunately it has little value for modeling. The grain is not fine enough.

But it's of great value for wooden  pen turning, which I do.

Can we work out some deal, Mathew?

I would't use all that pile but maybe just a few pieces.

[figuerres]

while it may not be good for models that is some good wood and I am sure you can get some money for it if you check around, if I had the right space and machines I would take some of it to finish a trunk I have but I need it pre milled to like 1/4 inch thick boards, and I do not have any way to cut it down to that size.

[allanyed]

I have put shavings of cedar inside some models to keep the critters out.  I don't know how well this works, but at least they smell nice.

 

Allan

[Shazmira]

I was thinking the same thing...I need to re-line an old cedar chest I picked up at an auction...wow. I am sure you will find several uses for that great pile, good luck!

[Pete38]

You could always use if for the grill outside.....

 

Salmon does real well when cooked on cedar planks  

[mathewp]

Thanks for your quick replies. I.ve done a little more homework, and it might be western red cedar.I'd love to send a few pieces around, but I'm in Australia, and I'm not sure on the export laws on timber.

Floyd,you say the grain is not fine enough, what exactly do you mean by that?Do you mean not close enough together?.If it's Western red, the grain is very close together on one side, even though the wood is quite soft. I'll post some pics of the grain. Tell me what you think.

[mathewp]

Brian, an American style flute that plays waltzing Matilda, sounds interesting, but I'm not very musical, Just ask my wife, she's heard me.Thanks anyway for your suggestion.

[mathewp]

Heres the pics and one of a Caprail I made for my model.

[Brainchild]

I used cedar to plank the hull of a scratch-built radio-controlled version of La Toulonnaise (for which I used a 35% enlarged version of the plans for a Carta Augusto kit that I still have in the box). I had seen cedar used for hull planking on several soling one meter models. I found that working and bending the cedar was easy. (If you want a bending challenge, try edge-bending 3/32 by 3/8 maple for a caprail!! Of course, that was in 1994; I was younger then!) I used bamboo for treenails. Yes, the cedar grain is too large for static display models and for deck furniture. However, coated with epoxy (inside and out for waterproofing) and at a short distance, my Toulonnaise looked really good in the water. On a painted hull, I would use cedar any time - especially if I had a lifetime supply. I would find the principal challenge to be milling it! Oh - and it really hurts when it goes into your fingers when sanding!!!

[Nirvana]

You could always use if for the grill outside.....

 

Salmon does real well when cooked on cedar planks  

That would be my suggestion as well

[fnkershner]

Per I think you are one who prefers smoked meats and barbeque more than anything even Modeling?!! But I have to agree the absolute best way to serve Salmon is to rub some of your favorite spices into it and then plank it on Cedar. I just had some Copper River Salmon prepared this way and sitting on the deck of our new house. It felt so good!

[Nirvana]

Per I think you are one who prefers smoked meats and barbeque more than anything even Modeling?!! But I have to agree the absolute best way to serve Salmon is to rub some of your favorite spices into it and then plank it on Cedar. I just had some Copper River Salmon prepared this way and sitting on the deck of our new house. It felt so good!

Smoking meat and ship modeling is very similar, both takes time and patients. Preparation and planning is key in both areas.

I am glad you enjoy the new house and have a deck to sit on. I need a deck myself, for outdoor dinners but also being able to sit outside working on a model.

[michael mott]

 

Unfortunately it has little value for modeling. The grain is not fine enough.

 

I respectfully have to disagree, it depends on the type of hull and how you will be finishing it.

 

this is western red Cedar on my hull.

 

 

 

 

Michael

[42rocker]

Michael

Looks great

Myself I used cedar in a kayak build 1:1 scale that is of course. Red color looks great next to the white cypress that I used.

 

Later 42rocker

Edited June 10, 2013 by 42rocker

[tarbrush]

Oh thank goodness for your reply Michael.

 

Matthew it was killing me that you might be going to burn that beautiful wood pile or throw it out.  If I had a wood pile like that I would probably go out and talk to it everyday.  (I have a thing for wood, can you tell.)

 

I was wondering if it might work good for carving lifts for a bread and butter build?

[TK1]

Hi Matthew,

Don't burn it (well, not all of it!).  As a few others said, it's good stuff (although it does burn exceptionally well, and worth a try with the salmon).  Looks like the same as I have, salvaged from a 1980's pergoloa.  it was used in outdoor construction in Australia a lot in the 70's and 80's but eventually subject to rot so a lot is being replaced at the moment.

 

Grain is coarse but could be used for an 'arty' model or larger scale boat if done well, otherwise fine for a painted model (the First Fleet models in the Museum of Sydney are all predominantly cedar, mostly Surian Cedar (Australian Cedar) with some WRC and other types).  The prominent grain and lighter wood makes it look like Japanese Cedar but original pics looks like some 'red' pieces also?

 

If you're in Melbourne I'm happy to have a look at it for you.

 

Good for general woodworking, pens, guitars and other stuff (a little short for a canoe or kayak though  ).  I'm sure you'll find a use for it, even if not in a ship model.  A nice base, turned pedestals, a new workbench, etc??  Or sell it to woodworkers and buy that kit you want 

 

Let us know what you end up doing with it, you've got a great pile of lumber there that any woodworker  would be jealous of!

 

Regards,
Darren

[42rocker]

If you are doing the fancy art work on the bow or stern of a kayak you don't need huge pieces. Lots of small pieces will work. Adds color to the project.

 

Later 42rocker

[mathewp]

Thanks for all the suggestions.I don't think I"ll burn it. My first model was second planked in Mahogany, which seems very similar to Cedar to me. I was thinking of doing the Wyoming for a first scratch build, so a larger model about 3 foot long should be ok to plank with this wood then???. I'm a bit like you Tarbrush, because I visit my pile of wood regularly. I draw the line at talking to it though. Thanks for the offer Darren, but I'm north of Brisbane.

[mrjimmy]

 

I'm not so sure what you are showing is western red cedar; the grain looks better than that.  There are certain types of cedar that should not be overlooked so easily. Alaskan Yellow cedar has a fine, straight grain and has properties very close to American Black Cherry.  I was in Oregon (USA) last week and ran across some Port Orford Cedar and bought a few pieces.  When I get some time, I will post some pics.  Nice looking stuff.

 

Si

[mtaylor]

Go here and hit "Wood Samples":  http://www.dlumberyard.com/wood.html    There's a listing for Alaskan Cedar. 

 

You can also go here:  http://www.wood-database.com/ where numerous cedars are listed.

[mrjimmy]

 

Thank you, Mark; that saves a bit of effort on my part.  The wood I bought is identical to the pictures in wood-database.com.

 

Si

[michael mott]

Si it is definitely Western Red Cedar, the lighting distorted the colour, I have some Alaskan Yellow cedar as well, Cracker the aromatic cedar is a different species. the smell is similar to Juniper.

 

Michael

[jud]

Also makes good long lasting fence posts. Most of the old barb wire fences around here used cedar posts.

jud

[Bill Hime]

The only downside to cedar is if it's not stored properly, it dries out easily and becomes brittle. Cut a piece of that down to an 1/8" and 1/4" inch. Try to snap it with your hands. The 1/8" should snap but not cleanly. The 1/4" should break open but not separate. If both break cleanly then the cedar's too dry. If too dry, stack it in small bundles and store it in a room with a humidifier for 3-5 days to restore it's moisture content

 

It has an application here but probably on larger scale projects.

 

Sincere Regards,

 

Bill 

[reklein]

Red cedar and Alaska yellow cedar both make good carving wood for larger scale stuff. It would make great wood for bread and butter hulls. Classic cedar strip canoes are made from good wood. Like any other wood, if its knotty and gnarly its firewood. The dust from cedar can be sorta toxic to some folks like me and I also have to use a mask when working it. Also the sawdust from hand sanding seems to form tiny slivers in my fingers and make little blisters which are annoying. I'd sort through that stack and cull the kinky stuff out. But seeing that the OP is over a year old you've probably figured that all out by now. Bill in Idaho

[michael mott]

I disagree.

 

Michael