Medieval Fortified Village by Ekis - 1/87 scratch base kit Aedes Ars

[Old Collingwood]

Ekis  can I ask  for some advice please mate,   when I start building my  Waterloo  La Haye Sainte  farm buildings, part of the Barns roof was set on fire by canon fire (I understand)    how can I best replicate this in my  MDF  roof  -  builing the damage  and  simulating the burned look?

 

OC.

[Ekis]

You have several solutions, I think:
- Either you make a hole in your roof, and you glue the rafters of the frame from underneath, which you will have blackened beforehand (Indian ink on the wood and a few touches of brown diluted),
- either you try to dilute the ink on the roof with the tiles (or slates, I don't know) and you try by small brush strokes to reproduce the burnt side of the roof.

Personally, I would try the 1st solution, without making too big a hole! 😉

[Old Collingwood]

5 minutes ago, Ekis said:

You have several solutions, I think:
- Either you make a hole in your roof, and you glue the rafters of the frame from underneath, which you will have blackened beforehand (Indian ink on the wood and a few touches of brown diluted),
- either you try to dilute the ink on the roof with the tiles (or slates, I don't know) and you try by small brush strokes to reproduce the burnt side of the roof.

Personally, I would try the 1st solution, without making too big a hole! 😉

Thank you Ekis,    I'm not sure how  big the damage was  as info on it is a bit sketchy   -  they just say the French attempted to set fire to the Barn Roof  and it was only by the KGL  using  kettles from the pond  - that rescued  the roof before it could go to far.

 

OC.

[Canute]

Was part of the roof thatched? The French may have set fire in the eaves.

 

I think Ekis' first solution would be the one to go with. You could open a hole and make a wood lattice under the hole. Paint black, dark brown and dry brush some gray (for ashy parts of the rafters).

[Egilman]

That era and period it would be a thatched roof, and the day being cloudy and rainy it would have been damp so difficult to really get a fire started, a good dousing would eliminate that threat rather quickly.....

 

Underneath would be timbers making up the sloped form of the roof with cross wise lattices running lengthwise to tie the thatch bundles to.....

 

A good solution would be to cover the roof with thatch and scorch a part of it along one edge  feathering the scorch out in a fan pattern, you wouldn't need a hole per-se just a semi circular scorch pattern.....

There isn't a lot of information on it, except that the KGL managed to put it out before it did major damage....

[Old Collingwood]

Ken, EG,  all the roofs  were  flat Grey tiled.

 

OC.

[Canute]

OC, assuming you plan to go ahead with this vignette, you'd need a hole in the roof big enough to show the framework the slates were attached to inside the roof. Then, scorch the exposed wood framing and scatter the slates about, suitably broken in places.

[Old Collingwood]

8 minutes ago, Canute said:

OC, assuming you plan to go ahead with this vignette, you'd need a hole in the roof big enough to show the framework the slates were attached to inside the roof. Then, scorch the exposed wood framing and scatter the slates about, suitably broken in places.

Thanks Ken,  the roof in the MDF kit  is just that  - flat MDF  with at best lines scored to replicate tiles,   and at worst  just pened in, there are no individual tiles.

 

OC.

[Canute]

Hmm, could be an issue. How thick is the MDF?

[Old Collingwood]

52 minutes ago, Canute said:

Hmm, could be an issue. How thick is the MDF?

I would have to measure it  - but at a guess  3-4mm.

 

Here is a close up showing  the roof section after they have painted it  (red is not supposed to be the correct colour  - from online sorces  the oppionion is they were Grey).

 

OC.

[popeye the sailor]

chances are your going to repaint it......if the roof is not cemented on in any way.  here's something you can try........ lay the desired side flat on a soft surface,  and poke it with a suitable {rod like} tool,  the size you'd like the hole to be.  it will create a jagged broken area.......you will likely need to remove some of the broken stuff.  cement in some framework under the roof,  breaking that as well......if need be.  do not remove the broken stuff......now paint in the desired colors.  I know it sounds archaic.....careless actually,  but then again,  so are cannon balls  

   this is a situation where imagination plays a huge part of what you want to see and convey.   I've heard of folks taking a nicely built plane,  and actually shooting it with bird shot,  to simulate bullet holes   there is some crazy stuff out there.....all in the name of art   

[Old Collingwood]

42 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

chances are your going to repaint it......if the roof is not cemented on in any way.  here's something you can try........ lay the desired side flat on a soft surface,  and poke it with a suitable {rod like} tool,  the size you'd like the hole to be.  it will create a jagged broken area.......you will likely need to remove some of the broken stuff.  cement in some framework under the roof,  breaking that as well......if need be.  do not remove the broken stuff......now paint in the desired colors.  I know it sounds archaic.....careless actually,  but then again,  so are cannon balls  

   this is a situation where imagination plays a huge part of what you want to see and convey.   I've heard of folks taking a nicely built plane,  and actually shooting it with bird shot,  to simulate bullet holes   there is some crazy stuff out there.....all in the name of art   

Thank you Denis.

 

OC.

[Ekis]

You should indeed repaint your roofs in grey so that they look like slate as in reality.
Have a hole of 1.5cm² so that you can make 2 or 3 rafters made with strips of 2mm maximum appear underneath.

And then, you should ask a moderator to put all these posts (from post #691 to #704) on your thread so that people following you can see the rest of this discussion.
I don't mind at all on this thread, we're all here to discuss and it's exciting, but your readers (followers) will understand the construction better, I think, won't they? ☺️

Edited February 6, 2021 by Ekis

[Old Collingwood]

3 hours ago, Ekis said:

You should indeed repaint your roofs in grey so that they look like slate as in reality.
Have a hole of 1.5cm² so that you can make 2 or 3 rafters made with strips of 2mm maximum appear underneath.

And then, you should ask a moderator to put all these posts (from post #691) on your thread so that people following you can see the rest of this discussion.
I don't mind at all on this thread, we're all here to discuss and it's exciting, but your readers (followers) will understand the construction better, I think, won't they? ☺️

Im fully happy with that Ekis, if the mods could move those sections over to my Waterlood build  I would be pleased and grateful.

 

Gratitude to you for yor help and advice with my quiry.

 

OC.

[Ekis]

Here is the site as it is: the central base is paved. It's a job this part! 😜

 

The stones are still rough and not properly sanded, hence the difference with the houses.

I think I'm going to pave the 3 base (the one of the village door), and harmonize everything at the same time...

In short, still a few tens of hours before showing you something realistic !   

 

 

The constructions simply put down, not glued:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The central base is empty, but paved!

 

[Ekis]

In fact, what you see here is the raw pose, but :
- a central flow in each street is already made, but not enough dug,
- other flows are there, but they will not be seen until the shadows/ageing are in place
- some passages of the streets must be sanded to dig them, or bomb them; again, we will not see anything without weathering ...
- the dust will also come to level the whole, to properly incorporate the buildings and to draw some nuances,
- the foams, moulds will reinforce all the effects.

But I wanted to show this step because it represents the heavy base in terms of hours to spend...
It's almost a mosaic! 😁

[Kurt Johnson]

Ekis, 

 

Where the streets that formally laid out the majority of the time during that period? I always was under the impression things were more haphazard with regard to smaller and less important structures. I’m just asking.

 

Also, will the sections of the village be permanently joined together, or left unconnected for portability? You may have already mentioned this when I was distracted by the guys hanging from the rafters dropping things on us. They’re kinda childish.

 

Kurt 

[lmagna]

We are NOT childish!..............................

[mtaylor]

Nany, nany, foo, foo..... <pouts>  I'm immature, not childish.  

[Old Collingwood]

"Hey..............Im only  Ten"😁

 

OC.

[Kurt Johnson]

[Canute]

I don't wanna grow up and have to be a responsible adult.

[Kurt Johnson]

I’m gonna be 70 the end of next month ( really not sureI how that happened) I do know its not my fault. Any way at this point I guess there's no point worrying about how that happened, it’s done. I guess it makes things easier. I never have to worry about what do when I grow up. it’s just not gonna happen. I guess I have PeterPan syndrome? Best part, it’s not my problem!!
 

Kurt

 

 

I really am just being silly. No intent in being obnoxious. 

Edited February 7, 2021 by Kurt Johnson

[Ekis]

8 hours ago, Kurt Johnson said:

Where the streets that formally laid out the majority of the time during that period? I always was under the impression things were more haphazard with regard to smaller and less important structures. I’m just asking.

 

Also, will the sections of the village be permanently joined together, or left unconnected for portability?

@Kurt Johnson 😉

The 14th is not the High Middle Ages (5th-11th). Much had changed in the planning and organisation of towns and villages. The great cathedrals were almost all completed, castles and large fortified cities were built and feared by all the armies of Europe.
French and English universities are a source of science and knowledge. Agriculture and animal farming are controlled methods of feeding. Finally, trade is numerous thanks to roads and waterways.
So, my little village benefits from all these advances in know-how, and now has cleaner streets (well, like in the Middle Ages, eh!) with a central drain and a sewer to evacuate dirt and rainwater outside the village (to the river...). That's what I'm doing on the 3rd base.
It is for all these reasons that I chose the 14th century!

 

Well, it's true that for the moment it looks all clean, but I can reassure you: the result won't be as clean and neat! 😁

 

 

The 3 bases will never be anything but close to each other. I won't glue them together to be able to transport this whole village easily.
The future port will be made in the same way. 
The whole will make a big puzzle that I will be able to enrich as I wish...

Edited February 7, 2021 by Ekis

[popeye the sailor]

superb progress........a couple of the pictures were especially cool  

[Kevin]

@Ekis im still looking in everyday for an update, at present its my go to log for inspiration,

although im practising with weathering i dont suppose the water will arrive until i have decided and then built a vessels, even then i don't have the space under the water height to put in a full hull 

[Ekis]

Some pictures of the central part in progress, but well advanced...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Waitoa]

Looks amazing and just the inspiration for me to keep going on mine

[Old Collingwood]

Fantastic work Ekis  - just jaw dropping  quality.

 

OC.

[Edwardkenway]

Superb! The realism is astounding, excellent workmanship 😃