HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48

[glbarlow]

I’m still here both enjoying and being frustrated by this build.
 

I just ripped off both fashion pieces after staring at them several days and have ripped off planks below the wales more than once, my first drop plank and my desire to do the best possible work hasn’t proven to be a good combination thus far. I’m hoping there is plenty of 3/16ths wood, based on the number of pieces I’ve cut and rejected I'm going to need a lot. To be clear it’s the builder not the model that’s the challenge. Seems everything I do is something I never did for a kit, so I get to learn on the job....good stuff.

 

Here is one recommendation I’ll pass on. My first layer of wales must be a tad low because the fashion pieces, cut exactly to the plans, turned out about 1mm short - which is why I ripped them off to make them longer at the bottom. My counter also needed the fashion piece bent out a little, no two models will be exactly the same. 
 

Three months ago I couldn’t rip planks worth a darn, now I’ve ripped 5/32nds at 1/32nd thick, .79mm, which is thin...so yay. 

 

So no pictures worth sharing. Patience and perseverance...

[MEDDO]

On 7/1/2020 at 1:03 PM, glbarlow said:

Three months ago I couldn’t rip planks worth a darn, now I’ve ripped 5/32nds at 1/32nd thick, .79mm, which is thin...so yay. 

This is one of my concerns.  Nice to see your progress.  I am going to have to practice a ton before I start using the good stuff

 

On 7/1/2020 at 1:03 PM, glbarlow said:

and have ripped off planks below the wales more than once

good to see you fix those things you are unsatisfied with.  It will be worth it in the end

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, MEDDO said:

good to see you fix those things you are unsatisfied with

Thanks. I’m making good progress yesterday and today. Back to photos soon. 

[glbarlow]

So who here besides me was expecting a train wreck after my last post. I cut the fashion pieces only to decide the plan size was too short for my ship, I decided that after they were glued on, because they curve into the ship dry-fitting didn’t help. So I remade them, more in a moment. The concept of a drop plank is simple and works great once you’ve done your first three and then it clicks - seems obvious and maybe that was my problem, trying to outthink it - figured it out eventually so let’s start:

 

 

I “adopted” my process for cutting out the planks from Rusty. I made copies of a section of the plan, cut out the fashion pieces and then used rubber cement to attach them to a section of 1/16th board. This process worked well, but here’s what I learned - to be clear this applies to my model your milage may vary. I noticed right away the first ones I cut seemed to “small” so to make me feel better I enlarged the copy of the plans to 105% and used those for the template. As I mentioned those still turned out too short so as you can see in the photo I added a few marks to them extra long so I could trim to fit. I’m not going to say what iteration of cut-outs wound up on the ship, let’s just say more than four are in the scrap heap though in fairness a couple were intentional victim prototypes to try stuff like bending and curving. First-timers…

 

 

I found this simple little jig helpful. a strip of 1/32nd up against the hull for the right distance of the piece back from the transom and another scrap on top of it as a backstop to align the piece equal to the run of the transom. Yes that's a cracked plank but its the lower level of the wales so no problem - else it'd be gone.

 

A good place to note I ended up adding a 1/64th shim on frame 16 to get a better flow to the eventual square tuck -or maybe I'm overthinking it again, no this time I'm right, maybe.

 

 

You might note the two fashion pieces are on opposite sides of the ship, that didn’t stop me from making as near exact copies as I could as my multiple measurements (sorry Chuck, in millimeters) taken multiple times until I got them near copies. I'm not sure why I was going to the hundredth of a millimeter, seems obsessive.

 

 

I learned from attempt one I have a bit of a curve on the lower wales plank, so to make the fit easier I modified my plank bending station to roll the fashion piece into a curve over a dowel. I did this having first “stretched” it because my counter was longer/wider/shallower that the plans - really not very much at all, but enough that bending the curve out helped. I would like to add - this worked and other than dipping it in water or wiping on a little water with a wet finger I soaked nothing (at some point I knocked my beer over, but that’s not the point). This advertisement of Chuck’s Plank Bending method brought to you by me.

 

 

Don’t look too closely at this photo because those planks don’t exist anymore except as a waste of a perfectly good Alaskan tree. I didn’t like the fit (there is a gap at the drop plank, or would be on the next row of planks) and I just wasn’t going to compromise. On a double planked kit I know I could easily make it up with the remaining planking, but here I was concerned it would just compound as I went. The problem, for me, was the alignment of the drop plank extension. First I pushed it up too far, and then let lay down too much which makes the subsequent planks less than a clean run. I figured out, and while this might come as a surprise, to glue it down the way it wants to lay naturally…go figure. easy for you to say.

 

So I ripped off the below wales planks on both sides (you'd think you'd learn the second time but no. And while I was at it, see above on fashion pieces, taking those all off with the rest. I walked upstairs and told my wife - you know how I’ve been working on this ship for the last several days - well I wasn’t because everything I did is gone. At least the frame hadn’t dropped on the floor and exploded again, at least not yet - let’s not think about that…

 

 

I lightly sanded the entire hull down and will apply a new coat of poly after installing the wales and before moving on to the rest of the planking. I'll be using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black on the wales. I did a test strip - it both looks fine with wipe-on Poly with a slight satin look or the Poly can be painted over if I want to keep it flat. I'll see when I get there.

 

 

So, anyway, I arrived to a point where I’m ready to move on. I’ll add the 2nd layer of the wales next then start the process of lining the hull, cutting more sticks, I mean planks. Did I mention I was impressed with myself for ripping the thin 1/32nd (.79mm) thick planks required as the top layer of the wales. I figured I needed 6 but I was having fun so I cut 12. I hope I don’t need them but who knows.

 

On we go.

[Blue Ensign]

Mark of a good modeller Glenn, fortitude and persistence, and yours has paid off handsomely, well done. 👍
 

B.E.

[DelF]

I second B.E.'s praise - those fashion pieces look beautiful, and your detailed explanations and photos will help other modellers.

 

Derek

[JpR62]

Very Nice work on these fashion pieces and a big thank you for the step by step.

[glbarlow]

Thanks BE, Derek, and Jean Paul.  I appreciate the encouragement and feedback.

 

I’m trying to provide a log that will help others just as I frequently consult BE’s, Rusty’s and Chuck’s Cheerful logs. I’d be nowhere with out Chuck’s detailed monograph, but it’s my belief logs from us of more humble skills will both help in construction and encourage others to take on building their own version of this great model. 
 

PS: I wasn’t able to use great in a sentence for a few days there, but I’m past that now, or should I say I’m past that for now😜

[RichardG]

24 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

but it’s my belief logs from us of more humble skills will both help in the building and encourage others to take on building their own version of this great model. 

Absolutely.

 

I'm a member of the group but so far I've only got as far printing the bulkheads and buying a scroll-saw. I watch the ongoing builds with much interest. My skills are definitely in the humble range (but getting better). 

[glbarlow]

21 minutes ago, RichardG said:

printing the bulkheads and buying a scroll-saw.

Hi Richard,

If you’re referring to Cheerful, I’d encourage you to consider Chuck’s starter kit.  He provides the plans and frame parts on his website https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/. It’s a nice way to get off to a good start, no scroll saw needed😁that is unless your want to get a scroll saw

[Rustyj]

Hi Glenn,

 

Everything turned out magnificently. Your explanations will truly help those who follow.

It also shows that no matter how closely we try to stick to the plans there are always slight variations,

created by us, as we build. Adapting and correcting them as we go is what makes for so much "fun".  

[glbarlow]

11 minutes ago, Rustyj said:

slight variations,

created by us, as we build.

Well said Rusty. I totally agree that adapt, improvise, overcome is the modeler’s creed. 

[RichardG]

12 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Hi Richard,

If you’re referring to Cheerful, I’d encourage you to consider Chuck’s starter kit.  He provides the plans and frame parts on his website https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/. It’s a nice way to get off to a good start, no scroll saw needed😁that is unless your want to get a scroll saw

Oops. That's me being stupid again! I was thinking HMS Winchelsea. I need to pay better attention. Your original comment was definitely on the mark though.

[garthog]

Your fashion pieces are impressive - and I like the way your photographs tie in with your narrative.  Keep going!

 

garthog

 

[glbarlow]

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.

 

 

I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.

 

 

I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.

 

 

I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.

 

 

Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.

 

 

 

I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!

 

[BobG]

She's looking really fine, Glenn!

[glbarlow]

Thanks Bob!

[Jonny 007]

Looking so good. I’m really enjoying following your build log.

[glbarlow]

56 minutes ago, Jonny 007 said:

really enjoying following your build log.

Thanks for the interest, glad you’re enjoying it. I like your avatar. 😊

[DelF]

Beautiful. The time and care you're taking are really paying off. 

[garthog]

She’s really looking good!  And that’s very interesting that the wales actually fit into the rabbitt.

[glbarlow]

Thanks Derek and Gart!  I’m enjoying the successes and working through the mistakes. 

[glbarlow]

Thank you for all the likes and follows. It’s inspiring to know other builders are watching my progress. 

[Louie da fly]

Beautiful work, Glenn!

[glbarlow]

Thank you Steven!

[Bossman]

Glen, very nice so far. Your craftsmanship is showing. 

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, Bossman said:

craftsmanship

Thank you!  I’m tryin’ 😊

[glbarlow]

I’ve built a number of models but taking on Cheerful is a new challenge. Before I started there were a number of tasks that were concerning for me. From port sills, thinning stern and bulkhead frames, square tucks to scarph joints, there are lots of things I’ve never attempted despite having built eight kits. On top of that list was single planking a hull that will be left natural (other than poly). No place to hide major mistakes and not much way to hide small ones. I’ve now finished the upper belt of the port side and thought I’d share what I did and what I learned.

 

@Chuck, as I’ve noted throughout this log, provides great instruction in his monograph. However, reading and doing are two different things. The first critical planking step happened months ago, fairing the hull. Taking the time to do that right back in the beginning now pays off.

 

 

Now its time to divide the hull into two belts. This keeps the measurements accurate and planking consistency more manageable. It starts by measuring from bulkhead zero (midships) the distance of 8 full planks (using the planking fan), since the known is full width planks at the center - that’s the first attachment point for the tape, then it’s connecting that to the stern and bow.

 

I struggled with this simple step of adding the artist tape (perfect for this job) to create the belts. I applied and re-applied tape until it wouldn’t stick and then did it again with more tape. I was being too analytical in how I was approaching positioning the tape. It wasn’t until I got some (more) sage advice from @Chuck I understood to step back and look at it straight on from the side and find the graceful curve (it’s there, let it come to me…be the hull…) and flow from bow to stern. And I mean from the side straight on. When you tilt the hull up to apply the tape it presents a false look of the tape flow, at least to my eyeballs - the curve doesn’t present itself until you lean back and look directly from the side at the balanced hull. Having found the curve, I marked lines on each bulkhead and threw away the tape I’d spent so much time moving around. The marks define how those 8 planks will fit the length of the ship and where and how much tapering I’ll do to make it fit, obviously thinner at the bow.

 

 

Then it’s time to line the hull. Chuck has .pdfs and videos here on the forum so I won’t go in to detail, I can’t begin to explain it as well as he can. I will say making tick strips and using the planking fan is precise and tedious work, but it’s time well spent and essential to success. It takes the guesswork out of planking.

 

Another key to these tick marks is not only the width at the bow but as important where to start the taper. In the case of Cheerful that was bulkhead 6. I kept the same starting point for all eight planks which turned the curve I created with the tape into a wooden reality.

 

-2552

 

Here I have a plank tapered and angled properly to fit the rabbit. Transferring those tick strips to each bulkhead and then to planks is how you get to consistent. The most critical of course is the bow - determining how wide strips need to be for 8 to fit within the tape mark. Often its also true of the stern, but the lining process (and Chuck’s monograph) noted for Cheerful this first belt from mid-ship to the square tuck it is full width planks. The other nice thing about these tick marks is the reassurance as I planked I was still on plan, still I double checked the measurement at the bow every other plank. I did have to make a few minor adjustments due to less than perfect tapering.

 

 

 

 

Then it’s on to my bending station. Again @Chuck monograph, .pdfs, and videos explain this. I can only add that in my view there is no better way to achieve a tight fit. No soaking, just a wipe of water across the plank with my wet finger and then a hot iron. It’s surprising just how much the wood can bend. It’s counter-intuitive but I bent the plank down in order for it to curve up on the bow. Then when that’s done bend it again to follow the inward curve. The wood can take it, just go slow and careful. Multiple times I bent the wood more than once (I only snapped one) to get a fit. It should almost lay into the bulkheads on its own.

 

 

I am also following the planking plan for proper lengths and pattern (rather than running one plank for the full length of the hull). I first added some edit marks to the plan (hard to see with those skinny lines) then transferred that to hash marks on the hull to maintain (well, actually not forget) the pattern. Another note: The plan is a two dimensional view of a three dimensional hull, don’t be deceived by the plank widths shown on the plan, that’s obvious when you think about it. Visually I was initially thinking I can take the width shown on the plan, nope. It works above the wales but not below.

 

I will own up to one cheat. For the short joints near the bow I scored a joint line on a longer plank that reached the second joint end nearer mid-ships. Tapering, bending, and fitting a single plank at the bow is hard enough, getting a match with a short plank was more than I wanted to do. Hence my joints at a the bow are perfect…because its the same plank.

 

 

Here's an example of how tilting the hull up may throw off my look at the curve. It may seem wobbly, it isn't. It's sort of an optical illusion because of the multiple curves at play, I had to ignore this and trust the tick marks. 

 

 I spent a long time on each individual plank, way more than any plank on any ship I’ve built before. I can’t make it up with paint or on a second planking. Here’s a little fun fact; different planks that measures 3/64ths on my digital caliper can measure between 1.18mm and 1.31mm. That’s not much, but it makes a difference on getting a smooth fit between planks. So now I measure the thickness on every plank in millimeters even though I cut them in imperial, its that or sand it out later. And I’m learning to do a better job with ripping planks.

 

 

After tapering, each plank is first beveled along the top edge and also slightly at each end, especially at the rabbet. This is a time consuming but important step for me to get a tight fit. The stern, due to the big curve from side to bottom (great use of nautical terms) is particularly challenging to get the right bevel and the right bends (more of a twist than a bend actually). It’s tempting to force it, it’s better to take the time.

 

I should be clear here. There are eight rows of planks in this belt. I probably made at least 14, tossing away almost as many as I fit. It’s another example that if my ship had three sides my third side would look great, I learn as I go.

 

 

Then it’s gluing them on. I placed CA with my thin applicator on no more than 2-3 bulkheads at a time and finger clamp the plank down and up for 20-40 seconds. That of course means as I moved along the plank would be too close to the bulkhead to use the applicator. I’m big fan of dental tools - here’s one I use to slip CA under the plank. I don’t glue the top edge. The bevel is how I get the fit, not edge glue.

 

 

While the tick marks confirmed I was on the right track, it was nonetheless nice to see the 8th and final plank fit at the stern right where it’s supposed to be as part of the eventual square tuck. I left them all a little long at the stern to give me some latitude when I get to the square tuck. I’d already had to make adjustments to the square tuck by sanding the triangle base down (again with advice from Chuck) to provide the 1/8th inch depth between it and the counter for the square tuck. After all that I repainted the wales, they got a bit banged up.

 

 

And I got to here following a light coat of poly (which isn’t fully dried and buffed yet in these photos) In addition to other things the poly brings out the seams and joints between the boards in a nice way. 

 

 

I didn’t get a perfectly tight fit in the rabbit, so I helped myself by putting the slightest amount of super phatic glue with a toothpick (it dries clear) then added some sawdust taken from beneath my saw and packed it in at the rabbet. After light scraping (another dental tool) and sanding to remove the excess glue, with the poly added it now looks fine.

 

 

I’m happy with the curve of the stern, though maybe it’s a little flat. As I’ve noted earlier the initial fairing is critical, but I did over-sand the final bulk head. Layering a 1/64th strip (that’s all it took) on between bulkhead and planks created a smoother run. It took work, especially on beveling, to get a tight fit together with a tight twist that would have been very difficult without my handy travel iron.

 

It’s not perfect - it has flaws, I mean character, but I can’t see through it so there’s that. I like the slightly different colors of wood that comes from following the planking pattern, just more character.

 

I have 24 more planks to go to finish the hull so everything can still fall apart. But at least I’ve proven to myself that I can more or less single plank a ship - with the help of Chuck’s monograph, the process of lining the hull and bending planks, and a lot of time and patience  (and possibly a supplemental wood order).

 

So as it turns out, I can get there from here.

 

[BobG]

2 hours ago, glbarlow said:

single planking a hull

Fantastic post on planking, Glenn! I think it's so good that the moderators should pin it along with the other instructions they have on planking.

 

2 hours ago, glbarlow said:

fairing is critical

You are 100% correct about this step. I think I'm doing better with sanding the hull so that the planks run fair but I'm still am not sure when I should sand a bit more or when I have sanded too much. Have you found a method that gives you consistently good results fairing the hull?

 

Gorgeous boat, by-the-way...

[Edwardkenway]

51 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

 

I will own up to one cheat. For the short joints near the bow I scored a joint line on a longer plank that reached the second joint end nearer mid-ships. Tapering, bending, and fitting a single plank at the bow is hard enough, getting a match with a short plank was more than I wanted to do. Hence my joints at a the bow are perfect…because its the same plank.

What a great idea, I'll borrow that if I may. 

Cheerful is looking really good, your planking is very tidy and looks  perfect with the wop finish 👍