Duchess of Kingston by Delf - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Boxwood version

[DelF]

After a short break since finishing HMS Speedy I thought I'd better start DoK, not least because I've already pre-ordered HMS Sphynx! 

As with Speedy, I accepted Chris's offer to do a boxwood version and I also went for the pearwood blocks and deadeyes having been very impressed with them on Speedy. As with Speedy I'll probably make my own boxwood masts but I've yet to decide whether or not to plank the decks in boxwood.  This worked well for Speedy, but the maple decks in this kit look really good and I might be tempted to retain them. However I really like making my own rope on my Syren rope rocket and I'm keen to try out the Gutermann Mara thread Chuck Pasarro recommends, so I'll probably spend a day or so spinning up all I need for this build in one go.

 

I've also decided not to produce such a detailed log this time round. I'll still document the main stages and cover any new techniques in detail, but I see little point in repeating exhaustive descriptions of stuff I covered in the Speedy log. Instead, I'll include links where appropriate so if people are interested they won't have to go round the houses to find the information they need.  Also, James (@James H) produced such a good log for the prototype with such fine photos that repetition on my part would be redundant.

 

So, my first impression on opening the box was that this is another quality offering. All the components look good, but I was particularly impressed with the manual, the 13 sheets of plans, the photoetch and the laser cut sheets of MDF and timber. Now that Chris has his own laser cutter the results are even neater, with minimum tabs to cut through and numbers etched on each part to aid identification:

The manual suggests bevelling the three foremost and three aftmost frames before fitting. I used the flexible shaft attachment on the Proxxon tool to sand the bevels. A dusty job, for which I wore a mask and set up a vacuum hose to pull in as much dust as possible:

 

After bevelling these parts it took just a couple of hours to get to this stage:

 

Following the kit instructions again, I dry fitted all the parts before brushing slightly diluted PVA into all the joins. I'd not tried this before but it worked really well. I found that every part fitted snuggly without any fettling, and the whole structure felt very solid. 

I initially used a brush to apply the glue but found it quite slow so I dug out an applicator I'd made some time ago out of a hypodermic syringe whose needle I'd blunted. I got the hypos in bulk from Amazon. 

 

The last job today was to fit the cabin deck and the foredeck base. The cabin deck will only just be visible on the completed model so I was happy to go with the maple in advance of a final decision on boxwood for the more prominent decks. The decks fitted well so the weights and pins are probably unnecessary but I tend to take a belt and braces approach on the key hull and deck structures.

 

If I continue at this pace I'll be finished before the next Olympics!

 

Derek

[DelF]

Fairing & Bulwark Patterns

 

After fitting the aft deck, temporary support beams and various bow and stern filler pieces the basic hull structure was ready for fairing, which I started with 120 grit paper wrapped round a strip of wood:

I used 120 grit for the whole job, wrapped round a piece of dowel for concave sections and freehand for particularly tight parts. The laser char helps initially in judging how much you're taking off, but as a fail safe to avoid going too far I ran a pencil along the back edge of each frame:

 

The MDF sands easily and the filler pieces in the bow and stern help in visualising the lines you need to take:

The pictures in the manual are helpful in that regard, but I also constantly referred to the very useful photos in logs by @glennard2523, @Rustyj, @rafine and @desalgu . Thanks guys!

 

Gluing the bow pattern was straightforward:

Next, I followed the kit instructions and soaked the bulwark patterns in hot water for 30 minutes then clamped them round a tin and left them to dry overnight. I wasn't happy with the result and decided I'd used too large a tin, so I tried again with one about 4.5 inches in diameter. This time the result was perfect:

The next part went remarkably smoothly. I'd not been looking forward to this part of the build as I'd found the bulwark patterns on Speedy quite difficult, with a tendency to ripple rather than lay flat. DoK's went on like a dream, with pins and glue holding the patterns in place with no problems:

The ease with which parts fit seems to be typical of this kit so far. I should note that during the construction of the MDF hull I didn't have to sand any parts or slots to get them to fit. Everything went together snuggly and securely. The whole structure feels extremely robust and strong. I'm looking forward to planking!

 

Derek

[yvesvidal]

Lovely kit, very well designed with a gorgeous ship at the end. I will be watching your progress, Derek.

 

Yves

[Glenn-UK]

Enjoy the build, I found everything was well designed and robust. The only problems encountered were of my own making and not with the kit.

[DaveBaxt]

Looking Great so far but I have always wondered how do you know what angles to make the edges of the bulkheads when fairing them ie how much material to remove before assembling them. I appreciate that this can be achieved by using detailed drawings but as yet this is a mystery to me. Good luck with the build and keep up the good work. Best regards Dave . Hope you don,t mind me following on.

[Gregory]

49 minutes ago, DaveBaxt said:

I have always wondered how do you know what angles to make the edges of the bulkheads when fairing them ie how much material to remove before assembling them.

I realize this wont work all the way to the rabbet, but a good start is to follow the contour of the deck..

[DelF]

3 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

I have always wondered how do you know what angles to make the edges of the bulkheads when fairing them ie how much material to remove before assembling them.

Hi Dave, and welcome to my new log.  Good question! The first few bulkheads in the bow, and to a lesser extent the stern,  always require a lot of sanding as the angles are so severe in those areas, which is why Chris recommends fairing them off the model initially. I took off what seemed like a conservative amount - enough to make the final fairing on the model easier but not too much. I used the photos in the manual as a guide. Nothing too scientific, and I knew that if I got it wrong and took too much off I could always add a thin shim of wood to the offending bulkhead to make it right. Once all are assembled the job becomes easier as you can run your sanding stick along the hull across the bulkheads and rub down the high spots until all is smooth, using a length of hull plank to check it is making full contact with each bulkhead. The laser char acts as a good guide to where you've been and where you need to go.  

[chris watton]

I always use a length of 0.8mm ply, about an inch or so wide with sand paper wrapped around it to sand the bulkheads. I find this works really well as I it is flexible enough to bend and sand all edges it comes into contact with (both convex and concave). I usually sand until most of the laser char is removed.

[glbarlow]

A good guide to keep from sanding too much is to leave a light strip of char on the back of the bow bulkheads and front of the stern bulkheads. You’re sure to keep the designed shape that way. 
 

Of course running a batten to check your work is the best bet. 

[DaveBaxt]

Thanks guys for answering my question on Delfs blog  and I hope I haven't interupted the blog too much. Some great answers in what doesn,t sound too scientific. This is something I will try on my next build. Keep up the good work Delf and I look forward to your progress Best regards Dave

[allanyed]

She looks like a nice project but had me confused at first.  I looked for a ship named  the Duchess of Kingston and soon found there was no ship with that name.  But, then I saw on a photo of the kit box it shows this was a yacht built FOR the Duchess and it is a match to the contemporary drawing at RMG.  Interestingly the contemporary drawing shows a LOT of detail including something I do not recall seeing very often.  It has the body plan and profile as usual but it also has a section plan at the fore part of the QD with the frames.  This pic shows the chocks at the floor and futtock heads as well as internal and external planking. Nice touch for a scratch builder wanting to do a POF model.

Allan  

[DelF]

7 minutes ago, allanyed said:

I looked for a ship named  the Duchess of Kingston...

You're right about the name Allan, but I felt that 'The Royal Yacht built for the Duchess of Kingston' was a bit of a mouthful for a log title, so I'm using Duchess of Kingston as shorthand. Interesting point about the drawings.

 

[allanyed]

Derek,

Totally makes sense to me👍  😀

Allan

[DelF]

First Planking

 

Many thanks for the kind comments and 'likes' - they're always much appreciated.

 

The first layer of planking is proceeding slowly and steadily. Slowly because a surprise visit from my youngest daughter and her family has provided an unexpected but welcome opportunity to spend time with grandchildren rather than the Duchess; steadily because that's the only way I know how to plank. 

 

So, just a short note on techniques. I'm gluing and pinning the first limewood layer. As an aside, I'm pleased with the high quality of the timber supplied - much better than the softer basswood that lime is often bracketed with. For glue, I'm using Super 'Phatic, an aliphatic glue which looks like a thin PVA but grabs very quickly. Scarborough Glenn put me on to this glue on my Speedy  build and I now swear by it. I started applying it with a modified hypodermic needle as mentioned earlier, but I've now 'borrowed' a Fineline applicator from Mrs F's craft kit. This delivers the glue very precisely through a 0.5mm nozzle and the cap has a needle built in which slides into the nozzle and prevents blocking. I note that it is made in the USA so no doubt many of our American members know about it:

I usually use fine nose pliers to push the pins in as my old Marples pin pusher is too big to handle the Amati pins Chris supplies. However I noticed Vanguard are now offering a much slimmer pin pusher so I thought I'd try it out. It arrived yesterday and it's ideal. Vanguard are also selling a version with an adjustable stop so you can drive each pin to exactly the same depth. It looked chunkier than the one I bought but may well suit people using beefier pins. I experimented with achieving the same function by inserting a short length of brass rod into the pin pusher to limit the downward travel, and that worked tolerably well, the only niggle being the tendency for the rod to drop out.

This picture shows the new tool with the old one on the right for comparison:

Also shown is my trusty Amati plank bender. I'm not using edge bending as the sole purpose is to achieve a smooth surface for the second layer. The Amati is fine for this layer, even for the tight curves on some of the stern planks.

 

So far I've done seven strakes on each side. After seeing some of the fine results achieved by previous Duchess  builders I decided to make each strake from two separate planks. This was a novelty for me but I found that having to focus just on the bow or just on the stern rather than on both on the same plank made things quite a bit easier. I'll do the same for the second planking, but will aim for more realistic plank lengths and spacing.

 

  

Derek

Edited August 11, 2021 by DelF
Typo

[Glenn-UK]

Looks good. My local model shop model shop gave me the inside track on the super phalic telling me its like a wood glue with ca grab properties.

[BobG]

9 hours ago, DelF said:

For glue, I'm using Super 'Phatic, an aliphatic glue which looks like a thin PVA but grabs very quickly.

I'm interested in this glue, Derek, and will get some and give it a test run.

 

I've been using Titebond Quick & Thick for general gluing and medium viscosity CA for planking. They both have their pluses and minuses. The Titebond Quick & Thick is nice in that it isn't as runny and it doesn't squeeze out as much as regular Titebond. It sets up quicker but still gives you a few minutes to make adjustments as necessary.

 

The medium viscosity CA gives gives you a few seconds to make adjustments but you still have to be precise and quick when planking with it. I use just a small spot placed on 2 or 3 bulkheads or frames at a time and move along like that from the bow to the stern. I like it because it sets up fast and I can just hand hold the plank section by section for just a few seconds as I go along. I don't get squeeze out and I don't need a lot clamps. Of course, my fingers occasionally get glued to a plank and it is easier to run out of time to make adjustments. It can also stain so I have to be very careful with it.

 

I read some reviews of the Super Phatic glue where modelers were saying that it takes a long time to cure and that it remains rubbery which makes it difficult to sand and often clogs the sandpaper. Have you had any problems with it like that?

[DelF]

Hi Bob. One of the reasons I started using the aliphatic glue was because I developed an adverse reaction to CA when I was copper plating Speedy, probably as a result of using it for hours at a time without proper ventilation. The Super 'Phatic isn't quite as fast as CA, but it does grab pretty quickly. For example I used it to stick a thin batten to the waterline on Speedy, gluing a few inches at a time (see here). I was able to hold each section against the hull with finger pressure for a minute or so and it held fine. Another example on Speedy was gluing the deck planks (here) where I got good adhesion and a stable result across the whole deck.

 

On Duchess I'm using it for first planking and it's working very well without problems, although with the additional help of pins. I'll try it on the second planking without pins but if it doesn't work so well my fallback is odourless CA which doesn't cause the adverse reactions. 

 

I should add that I'm only using the aliphatic glue on the planking as an experiment. Ordinarily I'd be quite happy using regular PVA. It's a lot cheaper and works fine for routine jobs like first planking. Normally I'd reserve the Super 'Phatic for special jobs where quick grab is important and where pinning or clamping isn't easy (eg the battens) and where I'd prefer not to use CA. 

 

I can't say I've encountered the problems you have read about. Super 'Phatic forms a solid bond quickly and cleans up well if you get it on the surface of your timber. I've not tried sanding it though (I'm not sure why I would?). 

 

I'll be interested to hear how you get on.

[BobG]

24 minutes ago, DelF said:

I'll be interested to hear how you get on.

I just ordered some along with a Fineline Applicator. I let you know how it goes for me after I get some using it. Thanks for alerting us to it.

[DelF]

15 hours ago, BobG said:

Thanks for alerting us to it

No problem - @glennard2523 put me on to it.

 

On the applicator, I should have pointed out that it clogs very easily if you leave the cap off as the nozzle is so fine. I find I have to replace the cap after every application - if I forget I have to disassemble the nozzle and poke it through with a thin wire. I should also mention that it works well with thicker glues such as PVA.

[DelF]

First Planking Finished

 

I've just finished the first layer of planking, which went relatively easily. The good quality limewood certainly helped, and @chris watton worked his magic again by designing the kit so that an exact number of planks was required at the midships frame - no awkward 2mm gaps to fill! I had five strips of lime left over, despite having spoilt a couple along the way. 

 

I tried to keep the first planking as neat as possible to minimise sanding and filling. Where necessary I used clamps as well as pins, with occasional edge bending:

 

I've decided to try to follow best practice on the second planking so I've been going over the various tips and tutorials on the forum and books on the subject in my library. To get my eye in I started using a set of Staedtler proportional dividers I got on ebay a while ago. I'll cover these in more detail when I get to second planking, but in brief they simplify the transfer of measurements from the hull to planking strips, and (as far as I can make out) they do away with the need for aids such as tick strips and planking fans. I'd not used them in earnest before, but found them easy to operate and accurate. In the picture below I've used them as conventional dividers to mark out the shape of the final plank. I transferred measurements at every frame - and halfway between where the gaps were wider - joined the dots and trimmed to the resulting line. Experts advise using ships' curves or flexible curves to connect the dots, but I joined mine with straight lines. My dots were close enough together so that when I planed, spokeshaved and sanded my way towards the lines the result tended towards a smooth curve:

Here's the final result, awaiting sanding:

I was pleased that I didn't need to use a single stealer anywhere on the hull - each strake runs whole from the bows to the stern. Hope I can do the same on the next layer!

 

On a final point, I said I would report back on the use of Super 'Phatic glue. Well, it's produced a rock solid result and I'm surprised how little I used, despite gluing the edges of many planks as well as the frames. This shot show how much is left in the applicator - and there's still about 1/2 inch left in the original glue bottle:

I'll let the hull dry thoroughly before I start sanding, and I might start preparing the keel and the other components that need to be fitted before second planking. I'm looking forward to the next stage, as she starts to achieve her proper shape.

 

Derek

[glbarlow]

I’ll enjoy seeing your new technique for the second planking though I’m pretty locked into tick strips, plank bending, and CA.  Always instructive to read your log.  My applicators work great for my use of CA, but I did pick up your applicator (or should I say your wife’s:-) for my white PVA glue use.

[Blue Ensign]

Great planking job Derek. 👍

 

B.E.

[desalgu]

We are about at the same place building Duchess.  Yours is looking good.

 

I'm looking at how the stern post and counter fits and don't like the how my first layer of planking looks against the stern post.  I've been looking at other build logs, and pictures of stern are few and far between.  I allowed the planking to follow the aft bulkhead so there is a distinct concave curve to it looking from aft.  But when I put the stern post in there, the planking doesn't hit it up near the counter, so a 2nd layer wouldn't either.  It looks great lower down, but not up near the counter.  I'm inexperienced and never have quite understood this little area of the stern.

 

Looks like others have bent some 1st layer planks a little inward to the stern post and others toward the counter.  And one plank in between has angle cuts with one side along the counter and the other along the stern post.  I've sanded on my some, but not quite sure what to do other than trim some out and redo a small area of planking.

 

How does yours look with stern post sitting in there?  For me this is a tricky area.

[DelF]

7 hours ago, desalgu said:

How does yours look with stern post sitting in there?  For me this is a tricky area.

I agree, it's a tricky area. Looking at your log, I don't think you're a million miles from where you need to be. From your photos it looks like you just need to sand the ends of those stern planks a bit more so you end up with a nice curve up into the stern counter. When you've fitted the lower stern counter pattern and the stern post you may need a bit of filler if there are any large gaps. 

 

I've not finished sanding the stern on my model but this is where I'm at just now:

 

Not very neatly trimmed, but it's only the first layer, and filler is our friend!

 

Here's a couple of pictures with the stern post dry-fitted:

 

I'm sure you know this, but it's worth emphasising that the second planking should end up flush with the sternpost, which means the first planking in this area must be thinned down gradually until it is flush with the mdf at the sternpost, which will leave sufficient gap for the next layer. 

 

Here's the lower stern counter pattern fitted along with the stern post:

 

Plenty of scope for more sanding (and filling!). But I'm relaxed about that - James's prototype looked similar (albeit neater!) at this stage:

Hope this helps

 

Derek

PS  I should have mentioned that a decorative rail goes under the lower stern counter. That should cover a multitude of sins. 

Edited August 16, 2021 by DelF

[desalgu]

Thanks so much for your quick response.  I heard from James H also, with a larger version of one of the photos.  For some reason I didn't realize how the planking curved into the counter.  I saw how it tapered to the stern post lower down, but got confused in the stern post/counter joint, and didn't understand how 2nd layer of planking fit in that area.

 

This morning I was thinking I can trim back some of the planking a little, and put in some scrap wood pieces and shape them so they curve into counter and fit into the stern post.   Then I saw James' response said the same, so I've got a plan of attack.  Might be a relatively easy fix.  All I need is a reasonably smooth surface for 2nd layer of planks.  It doesn't have to look pretty at this stage.

 

[DelF]

You'll be fine. First planking always seems more daunting than it turns out. It also helps having the person who built the prototype and wrote the manual on hand to point you in the right direction! 

[DelF]

First planking sanded, keel and sternpost fitted

 

I spent quite a bit of time on sanding the first planking to get it as smooth as possible. Actually, smooth is the wrong word as I used nothing finer than 120 grit; it's more a case of getting the lines of the hull as clean as possible  by getting rid of all the bumps and dips. I used a small amount of water-based wood filler in a few places, then it was on with fitting the two-piece keel - helpfully labelled fore and aft:

 

These fit into slots in the false keel, but I added a couple of clips just to make sure everything was aligned.

 

Although most of the sternpost will be covered in the final model, I sanded it with 320 grit paper just to make it as smooth as possible prior to painting. Here's the result, showing the beauty of the boxwood...

...and that's without any finish applied. Here it is fitted:

Mmmm...  I may have to rethink the painting! I'll see how I feel after second planking.

 

Derek

 

[DaveBaxt]

Thank you Delf for the update on the glue which looks amazing how far it goes so will add this to my list of things to buy on my next order.I really like the look of those smaller G claps and those dividers. Also I think you are doing a cracking job on the first planking and such a neat look of the hole for the stern and rudder post. I am currently doing the second planking on my Endeavour with Walnut and 1mm thick which is a bit of a pain. So I am looking forward to your progress with the second planking. I am really enjoying your blog and the photos are great so keep them coming. Looking forward to your progress. Best regards Dave

[DelF]

Stern Counter & Various Outer Facings

 

I've fallen way behind with this log, mainly through lack of time in the workshop. Here's a quick catchup.

 

I managed to break the stern counter by trying to bend it round a small bottle:

 

I soaked the counter in hot water for a long time, but in hindsight the diameter of the bottle was too small. I considered making a replacement, but decided that as the counter will be painted I'd fit it and hope for the best.

 

 

Looking at this shot, I may have terminated the first planking too short so more filling may be required.

 

All the outer facings for the gun port patterns, stem and keel, provided on thin boxwood sheets, went on fairly easily and without mishap:

All these components have holes and/or location inserts that engage with holes in the underlying structures and which makes lining everything up a doddle.

 

In the final shot I've started marking out the hull for second planking:

 

Derek

 

[Glenn-UK]

Nice work, as always