HMS Sphinx 1775 by Jasseji (Jacek) - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[mtaylor]

That looks great, Chris.  I wish you had opened a log.

[hollowneck]

Jacek,

I'm building the Sphinx kit too, but not posting a Build Log per se. I do have photos and notes in the Kit Review Thread and I'll be posting additional photos as I move along on my build.

 

You mentioned seeing some different treatments to the decorations for this model.

 

These photos show my alternative treatment to some of the decorative pieces in this kit. The resin cast piece at the stern spoke to me: "GIve me lots of interesting colors!" The headworks/stem P/E pieces are painted with a base coat of ochre and then given a wash (the same Citadel Seraphim color per previous post here) to darken the nooks n' crannies. Acrylic paint, both. This treatment is to specifically simulate "carved wood," not the trompe l'oeil (fools-the-eye) embellished style of ornate painting. I considered doing this with a paper appliqué, but decided that at 1:64 scale, my hand couldn't do this approach justice. The very small upper foc'sle bulwark decorations have small touches of a deeper golden bronze color that help to make these more interesting to look at.

 

Since I posted the stern photo here I have removed the two upper counter decorations (on either side of the "badge") and refinished the black. These were too much to my eye, OTT, particularly after painting the upper fascia the way I envisioned it. My model (built as sister ship HMS Camilla) will have her name on the piece of .o2 thin pear that is now shown blank. I haven't decided on the color yet, but it will likely be the same blue hue I've used with creme or white lettering.

 

Part of the fun with Vanguard's excellent kits is the many things one can do to "customize" - personalize their model.

 

Hope these stimulate some additional ideas!

Ron

 

[BobG]

1 hour ago, hollowneck said:

seeing some different treatments to the decorations for this model.

Outstanding painting, Ron! Thanks for letting us know about some of your techniques. I would have never had a clue about how to achieve the results you have described. Thanks!

[Jasseji]

@hollowneck @Tankerman Thank you for those replies, i have never used vallejo Liquid Gold and i surely will try to paint all of the stern and frieze decorations with it, but in case i fail i want to Explore alternatives. 

 

I am more comfortable with 'normal' acrylic Gold paint and i do have experience with citadel washes so this got me thinking, especially considering the fact that this is a small ship and i am also not convinced that she Would be as much covered in Gold in real life (maybe on launch but surely after the first damage, nobody would ever reapply so much Gold) 

 

BTW, Does blackened Brass hold paint better? 

 

 

[Jasseji]

Opening gunports and Char Removal:

 

 

Admiral isnt too happy about this task, amount of mess this generates, phuh.

 

Next up:

Port Gallery changes and "Gallery Drop"

 

Still waiting for Blackening solution and Acetone.

 

On a side Note, Amati did decide to send my order to Germany (i have placed an order on their website giving my Parents shipping address in Poland but then i sent them an E-Mail asking them to send this to Germany citing the EU Anti-Geoblocking and anti-cartell regulations...) - i think i will describe this in another Topic as i have very strong feelings about this situation...

 

 

Edited October 30, 2021 by Jasseji

[Blue Ensign]

That bow shot looks good Jacek, well done.

 

B.E.

[hollowneck]

Jacek,

Yes, I believe the blackening I use (in the U.S. = Birchwood/Casey brand) makes the P/E better hold an acrylic or solvent-based paint. I consider blackening like a "primer" coat. In some cases, the blackening alone is quite adequate for the task (especially very small eyebolts, rings, etc.); it does rub off but it still removes the curse of having "golden" fittings sprinkled about the model: Not kool. I'll sometimes even add a matte black paint to these small items to simulate iron.

I'm doing the chains now and I'll blacken all the P/E pieces. Then, to make this task manageable, I'm "stringing" all the pieces onto a thin wire so I can spray paint them evenly with either my airbrush or a spray can of matte black. Sure beats painting each one of these complex multi-part assemblies! This will create a consistent look to all these very prominent fittings. I did this with the chain and hand pump P/E and I believe imparts a proper "look" to these on-deck items.

 

On another matter, I've also scratch-lined my gunports; removing all that char first was a Sh$#$& task! I'm somewhat surprised that Chris didn't provide some laser pear for doing this. A minor complaint, but applying red paint to fix this really isn't a good solution - particularly for someone who doesn't want to paint all the bulwark items in screaming red. My preference: less is more in this case, like my removal of the unnecessary extra P/E decs on the stern.

 

I use the Citadel washes quite a lot (in conjunction with appropriate base colors).

 

Ciao,

Ron

[Jasseji]

1 hour ago, hollowneck said:

Jacek,

Yes, I believe the blackening I use (in the U.S. = Birchwood/Casey brand) makes the P/E better hold an acrylic or solvent-based paint. I consider blackening like a "primer" coat. In some cases, the blackening alone is quite adequate for the task (especially very small eyebolts, rings, etc.); it does rub off but it still removes the curse of having "golden" fittings sprinkled about the model: Not kool. I'll sometimes even add a matte black paint to these small items to simulate iron.

I'm doing the chains now and I'll blacken all the P/E pieces. Then, to make this task manageable, I'm "stringing" all the pieces onto a thin wire so I can spray paint them evenly with either my airbrush or a spray can of matte black. Sure beats painting each one of these complex multi-part assemblies! This will create a consistent look to all these very prominent fittings. I did this with the chain and hand pump P/E and I believe imparts a proper "look" to these on-deck items.

 

On another matter, I've also scratch-lined my gunports; removing all that char first was a Sh$#$& task! I'm somewhat surprised that Chris didn't provide some laser pear for doing this. A minor complaint, but applying red paint to fix this really isn't a good solution - particularly for someone who doesn't want to paint all the bulwark items in screaming red. My preference: less is more in this case, like my removal of the unnecessary extra P/E decs on the stern.

 

I use the Citadel washes quite a lot (in conjunction with appropriate base colors).

 

Ciao,

Ron

 

Ye, i would have also preferred the Gunports not being Red inside, actually considering Black, ideally it would be if we could keep them unpainted but thet would require lining them up with someting, i do have a lot of pear left so maybe that will do (but looking at @Blue Ensign, he did rant something which i didnt really understand about his lining idea)

[glbarlow]

17 hours ago, hollowneck said:

posting additional photos as I move along on my build.

Your model looks quite nice, not rushed and finished well. You really should post a build log to inspire others to build this kit.

[Blue Ensign]

Note for the record - I don’t do rant.

Cheers, 

 

B.E.

[glbarlow]

29 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

I don’t do rant.

I completely agree, nor do I.  Odd wording to use for someone like you who takes the time to share and explain his techniques.

[hollowneck]

1 hour ago, Jasseji said:

 

Ye, i would have also preferred the Gunports not being Red inside, actually considering Black, ideally it would be if we could keep them unpainted but thet would require lining them up with someting, i do have a lot of pear left so maybe that will do (but looking at @Blue Ensign, he did rant something which i didnt really understand about his lining idea)

Jacek,

I've lined my gunports since leaving them entirely bare (MDF) isn't acceptable to me. I recall that @Blue Ensign indicated he labored over this task to make the linings fit. He is a consummate über-detail kind of builder, which I do respect. And, I love little details as much as anyone on the forum, however....there is a point for me where this obsession can be OTT. Confession: I lined only the bottoms of my gunports with a scratched piece of pear since this will be easily seen on viewing the model; the cannon protrude and visually occupy much of the gunport and the verticals aren't that prominent, so I didn't bother to line these side areas. The upper lining of the gunports, you ask? Who will to see and inspect this area? I know! Perhaps a ship modeling forensic specialist...

 

Each builder is his own captain, making his ship his own. That's my plan and I'm sticking to it!😂

Ron

 

Edited October 30, 2021 by hollowneck
added photos

[Jasseji]

2 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I completely agree, nor do I.  Odd wording to use for someone like you who takes the time to share and explain his techniques.

Seriously, i do believe that It's a bit stiff lately, meaning, some People do take Things too Serious. 

 

@Blue Ensign sorry for my wording, i hope i didnt offend you but my vocabulary is missing some Times and i dont always realise the full meaning of a Word. What i meant is you mentioned your idea on the lining gave you some concerns

 

 

I think I'll stop Posting at all.

[ccoyle]

16 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

I think I'll stop Posting at all.

 

Don't do that. We're a big, international family; sometimes we have disagreements, which is only natural, and sometimes things get lost in the confusion of English as a second language.

[glbarlow]

I understand English isn't your first language, and it far exceeds the little German I know from my years living there. Rant implies and angry, attacking, or defensive tone, I'm sure not what you meant.

[Jasseji]

18 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I understand English isn't your first language, and it far exceeds the little German I know from my years living there. Rant implies and angry, attacking, or defensive tone, I'm sure not what you meant.

German isnt native for me either (well, a bit it is but my Main Language is Polish, i just grew up with German). 

 

I always understood 'rant' as a passionate exclamation, like "this isnt working as i hoped it Would, wasted so much time!", at least that Was my impression that BE was frustrated that He wasted time on an unsuccesful endeavour. 

 

My English is quite good actually on one side but limited mostly to business and technical-IT English, It's 20 years since i needed any real small-talk or day-to-day communication

[mtaylor]

15 hours ago, Jasseji said:

BTW, Does blackened Brass hold paint better? 

 

I've never tried that but it might.  After blackening, test it by rubbing with a soft cloth and see if the black comes off.  I don't have any blackened bits to test this or I would and let you know.

[Jasseji]

Airbrush Tests:

 

 

 

PE sheet painted with Vallejo's white primer using Airbrush, Stern decorations first primer then Vallejo prussian blue (primer and blue airbrushed) 

 

I'm getting the hang of the Airbrush Thing BTW. 

Edited October 31, 2021 by Jasseji

[Jasseji]

Well, not ideal but my first work with the Liquid Gold paint, i didnt realise it's so runny

[hollowneck]

Nice work! This is certainly dramatic and the Vallejo liquid gold does drip -😂

No problem, minor blue touch-ups with a steady hand (and a tiny brush) will fix things. I've been thinking about adding the Vallejo gold to the full surround on my stern decoration fascia. It looks especially nice on your treatment.

 

Ron

[Jasseji]

42 minutes ago, hollowneck said:

Nice work! This is certainly dramatic and the Vallejo liquid gold does drip -😂

No problem, minor blue touch-ups with a steady hand (and a tiny brush) will fix things. I've been thinking about adding the Vallejo gold to the full surround on my stern decoration fascia. It looks especially nice on your treatment.

 

Ron

I tested it on the frieze work, it surely Sticks better to the primer than reguar Gold paint so i will paint all decorations in it, just have to try to fix those strokes in the resin decor (the steady hand with the tiny brush might be a problem tho) 

[glbarlow]

Just need a 20/0 or 18/0 Spotter brush and you’ll be fine. That gold looks pretty good!

[mtaylor]

I don't see a problem with your gold.  Looks great from here.

[Jasseji]

7 hours ago, mtaylor said:

I don't see a problem with your gold.  Looks great from here.

 

I have to fix at least the upper edge.

It would be better definitely if i'd try to make the decoration in 2 parts - the blank "Cartouche" painted blue and then 3D Print figures and lettering separately.

 

I'd have to see if i can re-create the figures in Blender or Maya, dont suppose @chris watton that it would be possible to order that separately somehow ? 

 

Here is the Effect of the Gold paint on the PE Decor, i like it and it is very easy to paint actually:

 

 

Edited November 1, 2021 by Jasseji

[James H]

All you need is a 000 or 0000 size brush to fix those. That's exactly how I fixed my gold run-off.

Don't make things too complicated for yourself with trying to recreate from separate components. 

[chris watton]

I cannot supply you with my master files that I paid a lot of money to commission, sorry.

 

As Jim says, it is easy enough to rectify with small brushes, I have never got the painting right on such thing on the first pass

 

 

[Jasseji]

17 minutes ago, chris watton said:

I cannot supply you with my master files that I paid a lot of money to commission, sorry.

I would never ask for the files and i didnt, my question was more about ordering it ready-made but in pieces 

 

Anyway, i will try to correct that, i do have another idea tho for the future if it doesnt turn out the way i'd like to 

[James H]

29 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

I would never ask for the files and i didnt, my question was more about ordering it ready-made but in pieces 

 

Anyway, i will try to correct that, i do have another idea tho for the future if it doesnt turn out the way i'd like to 

 

These things are ordered as single pieces after the 3D guy sculpts it, then moulds have to be prepared. 

 

To create a set with separate parts would probably cost you more than a Sphinx kit due to the work involved, all the separate moulds and also the casting. 

[Jasseji]

Little Walkaround:

 

 

 

 

 

This is the part of the build i start enjoying, small parts, visible additions etc.

[glbarlow]

Not that big a deal to do touch up with tiny brushes.  Frankly it’s a lot easier than assembling separate pieces without having glue being a bigger problem than touching up paint.