HMS Winchelsea 1764 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48

[Steve20]

That's a lot of detail in the rudder, Glenn. Really impressive.

[glbarlow]

1 hour ago, Rustyj said:

bang the rudder and knock it off.

Thank you Rusty and excellent advice. I was able to have working pintles and can easily remove the rudder. It is now off the ship and sitting on padded shelf. I am quite confident of my ability to knock things off and dent the nice cedar, so I made sure I could park the rudder in a safe place.

 

I’m glad to know I’m not the only counter of things. 😊

[glbarlow]

52 minutes ago, Steve20 said:

lot of detail in the rudder

Thank you. It is by far the most detailed rudder I’ve ever made for sure.

[CaptnBirdseye]

10 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Thank you. It is by far the most detailed rudder I’ve ever made for sure.

And your patience and skill shows. Well done that man 👍

[glbarlow]

4 hours ago, James G said:

sharing the finer details. Quite helpful!

Thank you, I hope the log does prove helpful. 

[glbarlow]

56 minutes ago, CaptnBirdseye said:

patience and skill shows.

Patience…my never ending life challenge😊

[glbarlow]

1/16th wide brass strip....

 

Google, Amazon, even the K&S Metals website have failed me. I cannot locate the 1/16th wide brass strip I need for Winchelsea's port hinges!  Does anyone know of a source for getting this??

 

[Gregory]

Check your mail..

[scrubbyj427]

2 hours ago, glbarlow said:

 

1/16th wide brass strip....

 

Google, Amazon, even the K&S Metals website have failed me. I cannot locate the 1/16th wide brass strip I need for Winchelsea's port hinges!  Does anyone know of a source for getting this??

 

I stole them out of my constitution kit!  I’ve heard that some folks have made their own with their Byrnes table saw….

[glbarlow]

I’m not sure I want to cut metal with my blade…

[Edwardkenway]

13 hours ago, glbarlow said:

 

1/16th wide brass strip....

 

Google, Amazon, even the K&S Metals website have failed me. I cannot locate the 1/16th wide brass strip I need for Winchelsea's port hinges!  Does anyone know of a source for getting this??

 

I have the same problem, I used a couple of spare from my AL whaleboat but need more.

Im sure CMB used to have some, it was from Occre 

 

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=brass 1%2F16in strip&PN=Occre-Brass-Strip-OC17040.html#SID=3142

 

 

[glbarlow]

Interesting that CMB lists them as “temporarily unavailable”. 😩

[glbarlow]

Transom & Stern Near Complete

 

A short update.

 

The windows (or lights) have been sitting on my padded shelf for a long time, waiting for this moment. There is nothing special about installing them, all the readiness work in creating, measuring, and fitting their frames was done long ago with the installation of the stern frames and later with the transom and its associated work.

 

The challenge of this task was to install the very nicely scaled, but as a consequence very fragile, boxwood windows without breaking them using the very minimum of PVA glue. Much of the frame shows of course, so only a very small amount of glue in the very edge of the corners works.

 

Following a lot of hold my breath moments, well more specifically five such moments, and without breaking anything next up was the acetate used as window glass. For this I used Liquitex Acyrilic Matt Medium. It takes little to hold the acetate and the medium dries clear, still I applied it only to the corners of the window.

Finally I added the sills below the windows to complete the transom interior. Using a ¼ by 1/32 strip of Yellow Cedar these require some work matching up the angles and lengths required. I did all the cutting and fitting before the windows were added to have more working room and less stress working around installed windows. Only minor adjustments, with WOP added before installing, were needed for the final fitting.

And with that my transom and stern are complete for now. There is a railing to add to top off the stern frames later in the build (I’ve already used the template to cut these to the proper height), below that rail the work is done.

 

Thanks for stopping by,  your likes and comments always appreciated. I’m off to continue Chapter 5.

[Toolmaker]

I looked at this, your latest post, from an offline position. I thought it would be just rude not to immediately log in and offer my “crikey that’s outstanding” comment. It really is super work.

I know you can take great photo’s, which they are, but you can only show us what’s in front of you. You present a high bar indeed. Lovely stuff.

Thank you

Paul

Edited April 1, 2023 by Toolmaker

[glbarlow]

2 hours ago, Toolmaker said:

only show us what’s in front of you.

Thank you for the kind words!

[Rustyj]

That is a stunning stern Glenn. I just sat and admired your wonderful workmanship!

[James G]

Beautiful, Glenn. Actually the more accurate adjective is breathtaking! Thank you for sharing your steps taken.

[glbarlow]

15 hours ago, Rustyj said:

just sat and admired your wonderful workmanship!

Thank you Rusty, high praise from someone who’s work I’ve admired for years. 

[glbarlow]

5 hours ago, James G said:

for sharing your steps taken.

Thank you for the kind words. I hope my log helps others as I’ve so often been helped myself. 

[Blue Ensign]

Beautiful, beautiful work Glenn, a stunning model, the only downside is the anti climax I feel when I go back to my stuff.

 

B.E.

[glbarlow]

17 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

the only downside is the anti climax

Thank you BE, very kind of you.  However, your work is no anti climax, I’ve followed your work for years. Your Cheerful log was one of my main go-tos as I built mine a few years ago.

[scrubbyj427]

Well done Glenn, all the hard work with the frames and sills has paid off. Your windows line up on a gentle curve and look perfect!

[glbarlow]

Just now, scrubbyj427 said:

hard work with the frames and sills has paid off.

Thank you!  That is so true. I was thinking about that, how way back when I spent all that time on aligning stern frames ad fitting those sills using the frame blocks.  The windows at the stage just dropped into place.  

[jfhealey]

I'm looking hard to find some fault here Glenn with a view to offering some restrained and constructive criticism but you've got me beat this time. Still there is always your next post. I'm watching.

Fred

[glbarlow]

Of Wires and Wood

 

An update on the visually small but fun stuff on and about the deck.

First up were the ladders. Always fun to square up these. Very nice that I didn’t have to scratch make them as I did on Cheerful. The laser cut ones provided by Chuck are a step up (see what I did there) for anything I could make. As others have noted I had to thin the edges of rounded steps for a tight fit into the ladder sides. While this is time consuming (since when did that matter) it made for a better and easier fit.

Char removal is essential and so much fun on the small steps and ladder rails. I’m getting the hang of it by now, especially after a short post Chuck provided on this a while back. A single edge razor blade to remove the gummy part, then lightly, and the key is lightly, sanding with a 320 grit flexible sanding stick, one I repeatedly clean on the big rubber bar I described in an earlier post (and yet another thing learned on MSW).

A light coat of WOP and they are installed, following the plans for height and location. I managed to do this without them disappearing forever inside the lower deck. Very happy about that.

Avoiding the port lids and hinges for a while I moved on to the staghorns and cleats. The mill was feeling left out so I used it to drill centered holes for the pins used to attach them the bulwarks. An under utilized tool in this case but it made for quick work and a constant location. I inserted those little nails we all have in abundance for the pins.

More char removal on the very small cleats. The red paint I use in thin coats won’t cover the char so it all must be removed. In the process each cleat was rounded and shaped with the fluted ends common to all cleats. The staghorn ends were also shaped up.

 

The pins are a nice hold point while painting, I used four coats. They stood on their pins in the foam block between coats. The blue tape on the pliers served only to protect them from the paint brush. Once the last coat was dry I cut off the pins to about 2mm in length so I didn’t go all the way through the hull. I decided that would not be good.

There are many many eyebolts and split rings on our models. Both to avoid the hinges a little longer and to continue to tackle (I did it again) the wire work in stages I elected to add all I needed for the 28 ports. The first step was coming up with a jig to ensure a consistent location. I cut out a port from the plans, glued it to a piece of 1/32 cedar, measured and drilled the holes through the paper and by consequence the wood, and cut out the port itself.

 

There has to be a constant and I didn’t feel like the deck was it. What is constant is the spirketting running along the bottom of every port. First I used the deck for the 4 ports with cabin walls then I cut off the jig to the exact bottom of the port (on the paper cutout) and I had my jig. The top piece you see is just to stiffen up and reinforce the 1/32 wood. Once it was made I remove the paper, just easier to see the holes. With this and a couple of clamps to hold position I made fairly easy work of drilling the holes. Yes I did it by hand, no way was I going to trust even a slow turning drill, or more precisely trust me, not to go through the hull. As I mentioned I decided this would not be good.

There are four eyebolts and two split rings for every port. Because I count these things that meant 112 eyelets and 56 split rings. Of course I made more than that, there were one or two rejects, I forget how many, maybe more than two. Now there are just that many less when I start making guns.

With that done and the cleats installed I’ve run out of things to do to avoid making lids and hinges. So off I go to do that.

 

Thanks as always for stopping by with your likes and comments. They are always appreciated.

Edited April 9, 2023 by glbarlow

[Kevin]

stunning build, im taking more notice of this builds now, on how a kit should go together

[JpR62]

Beautiful work Glenn ! Always so precise and perfect! And full of good advice. Thank you !

[scrubbyj427]

Beautiful work Glenn! You seriously must have been a tool and dye maker in a previous life, very methodical with your jigs and tools. I love it. Cheers to gunport lids and all the guns! I found making the gunport lids to be very rewarding as they usually look like crap on most kits. I must have opened and closed mine a hundred times, like a little kid. 

[James G]

Glenn, for precision addict’s your build log offers quite a fix! I do so appreciate your knowledge and documentation. You’re helping all of us build better Winnies.

[westwood]

I'm speechless Glenn, beautiful work.
Also starting to shape all those eyelet and ring bolts...