HMS Sphinx 1775 by Hollowneck - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[hollowneck]

A holiday from rigging. Building a Better Boat.

First, a little touch-up on the belaying pins on the Mizzen. The ProMarker tip works a treat for turning these pins into nice dark wood. The pen looks HUGE but the tip is quite small, pointed. The other end of this marker has the standard "Sharpie" point. The color is the same pen from my previous post.

Captain Pennypincher inspecting the crew's paint job on his ship's only way to get from ship-to-shore, and vice-versa. The Sphinx kit has components for building three ship's boats. I'm only mounting one as my model is going to feature sails and attendant rigging and I didn't want to cover-up all the nice detail on the midships and weather decks. It's still amazes me when these 800% enlargement close-ups are transferred to my computer-🥵

Note: the tiny P/E oarlocks are reversed from the photos shown in the instruction manual; I believe these were intended to be mounted in the manner I've shown here, two pieces, facing inward to form a metal "U" in which the oar would rest. The brass P/E pieces to form these are a quite clever way to depict these miniscule details, and crucial to present an accurate representation of a ship's boat. "The Devil's in the details, right Captain 'P'"?

Here is a partial collection of the bits n' pieces supplied in the kit for making three ships boats. I scrounged parts from these thin pear patterns as well as some of the brass P/E. There were plenty of choices that I modified to make my boat look like a PinnacleLaunchYa'wl. That's a hybrid. Your mileage may vary. I was very pleased to get one of Chris' new 3D resin cast yawls (24') with the amazing clinker and internal rib details. The challenge for me was fitting-out something credible from the kit's other components that were designed to make the boat's from a combo of pear and brass P/E. I'm certain most Sphinx builders will make all three boats from the kit when they present her as a "dockyard" model, san's masting & rigging.

I need to make a reasonable length of coiled rope and attach it to the small anchor as well as detail a full set of oars (6, provided as nicely-etched pear patterns in the kit). These will rest inside the boat, across the thwarts. Of course, the boat will be lashed down to the skids.

A view from the fore top. Grappling hook askew, anchor unfinished.

I simulated the interior color of the boat to match the predominant color(s) of the other pear wood for the model. This was a combo of two acrylic colors which got me close to what I envisioned the boat's wood would look like. The "white" clinker hull of the boat is actually a creamy, tallow hue, not "white." The Liquitex acrylic primer spray (Titanium White) worked great for a second finish coat; the same color on the interior gave me a good primer base to then add the "wood" color to the resin and brass P/E.

Another view of Camilla's only boat: a PinnaceLaunchYa'wl. .. made in Alabama...a rediscovered, 18th-century technology related to how a Russian Missile Cruiser can transform into a submarine  (now resting on the bottom of the Black Sea)...

And, one more, lower angle.

Now, after some tweaking of a rope coil and fashioning a set of oars (provided in the kit)...I'm...

...back to rigging.

Thanks for looking-in after my respite from this seemingly endless endeavor!

Edited May 21, 2022 by hollowneck
grammar, spelling, added jokes

[Oldsalt1950]

Stunning!

 

 

[hollowneck]

1 hour ago, Oldsalt1950 said:

Stunning!

Gracias, Señor Oldsalt1950!

[Blue Ensign]

Your hybrid turned out very nicely Ron, I think you’re right to only show one boat on the skids, such a shame to hide  all that upper deck detail.

 

B.E.

[hollowneck]

16 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Your hybrid turned out very nicely Ron, I think you’re right to only show one boat on the skids, such a shame to hide  all that upper deck detail.

 

Thank you kindly, B.E.

As we know, "hybrids" for transportation are gaining in popularity. 😬 There will be many details to examine when HMS Camilla's completed.

This is a large part of the journey we perfectionist ship modeling types pursue in our quests! I intend to have only one other item across her midship's skids: a spare topmast. This item and her boat should still leave some "space" to see all the work on her gundeck.

Edited May 21, 2022 by hollowneck
spelling/typo

[druxey]

Very nice and neat work. How about towing the other boats astern? (I'll shut up now.)

[Blue Ensign]

 

hollowneck said

Note: the tiny P/E oarlocks are reversed from the photos shown in the instruction manual; I believe these were intended to be mounted in the manner I've shown here, two pieces, facing inward to form a metal "U" in which the oar would rest. The brass P/E pieces to form these are a quite clever way to depict these miniscule details, and crucial to present an accurate representation of a ship's boat. "The Devil's in the details, right Captain 'P'"?

 

 

Hi Ron, I don't think you are correct in your assumption.

 

The  small extensions are support pieces (usually of wood) to the pins that  fit thro' the small support wedges. Slightly different to 'U' shaped oarlocks of  the later period.

Still, yours is a hybrid, but I wouldn't want other readers to think that was the norm.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[hollowneck]

On 5/21/2022 at 7:00 AM, druxey said:

Very nice and neat work. How about towing the other boats astern? (I'll shut up now.)

I considered this, one aboard with another in tow...until recently deciding that Camilla will have shortened sail, on a chase in rough water, a looming squall ahead.

Please don't shut up! I consider MSW's denizens as Better (knowledgeable) Angels, never harsh nor bothersome critics.

Edited May 22, 2022 by hollowneck
added sentiments

[hollowneck]

On 5/21/2022 at 7:34 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Hi Ron, I don't think you are correct in your assumption.

 

The  small extensions are support pieces (usually of wood) to the pins that  fit thro' the small support wedges. Slightly different to 'U' shaped oarlocks of  the later period.

Still, yours is a hybrid, but I wouldn't want other readers to think that was the norm.

Thanks for the tip, B.E.

I'm having difficulty visualizing the better arrangement from your description; so much to learn, so little time. However, I'm sure you're correct. I don't think I'm

going to disturb these little creatures, uncertain that reversing them will present a "functionally correct" look (to my hybrid)! 

And, at the end of the day, this is now the decision of Captain Pennypincher  - and I'm not going to risk a flogging...

Edited June 21, 2022 by hollowneck

[hollowneck]

Back to Rigging. Shop time in the summer months slows waaaaaaay down for me. However, it doesn't disappear!

An update on tools, materials and a little technique on one of the final stages of Camilla's standing rigging.

The ratlines need trimming after some minor adjustments to the shrouds. All three masts now have their crowsfeet.

Tying-off the ratlines to the futtock shrouds; tricky business tying-off clove hitches in these tight spots. A pair of fine tipped tweezers are essential for this work.

After making final adjustments to each ratline I apply a tiny dab of Liquitex Matte Medium to each and every clove hitch "joint." As an adhesive, it dries within a few minutes and when dry is transparent and as the name suggests, matte. This is a better solution than applying CA or aliphatic glue. Over time, these rope knots can slacken and droop, randomly, depending upon the tension one initially applied. It's worth the additional time to take this final step after all the hours invested in this repetitive task.

After the joints have dried, I use my tweezers and favorite pair of embroidery scissors to trim off the excess rope ends. The rope I used for the shrouds (Ropes of Scale, an NRG sponsor) is dark brown .7 & .8 mm. The ratlines are made from Ropes of Scale . 25 mm dark brown rope. These sizes present a good approximation of the relative rope sizes used on these ships.

In this photo, it appears as though I'm snipping the thick main preventer stay, which I assure you I am not!! My tweezers is pulling an excess ratline end taut so I can more easily snip it off with needle-nosed scissors.

 

A Tip: When doing this tedious, repetitive work, set a time limit for yourself. For me, this is not more than 3-4 hours maximum in a build session. I've found that if you spend too much time doing this critical work, you'll tend to get lax on the details. The "ratt'lin down" task can be a little "Zen-like"- a monotony of tying-off endless loops of tiny thread (rope) can almost put one in a trance-like state. That's when things can go South quickly if you don't check your work! And the clock. Take a break. In fact, I took a whole week between the main and the mizzen rat-lining!

 

Some builders use a paper guide for adding ratlines. I "eyeball" my lines with frequent caliper checks on their spacing and also check that my side-to-side intervals are nearly identical as this symmetry is important.

 

Note: Our visual acuity is very unforgiving when looking at objects in a horizontal plane that are the tiniest amount askew. Ratlines need to be level to the deck and consistent across the entire width of the shroud; this fact is especially true on the topmast rigging, which are the most difficult ratlines to execute cleanly.

 

The next step for my build - before I get to mounting backstays and fashioning Camilla's many spars - is to make some cloth "screens" for all the top railings. I'll use regular bond copier paper for these, painted in an appealing crimson color. I'll lace each to the railings while I still have decent access before the breast and backstays are added. I've done a little research on the "cloths" in Lee's, their purpose and with some further advice from member druxey, I've decided to add these. Some of the period models I've seen in various museums show these on fully-rigged English warship models. On past models I mounted fine netting across the top railings. This model, something a little different.

 

Edited June 21, 2022 by hollowneck
grammar & spelling

[druxey]

Very neat work on those ratlines, Ron!

[hollowneck]

1 hour ago, druxey said:

Very neat work on those ratlines, Ron!

Thanks druxey for the kind words! Now I can go to bed and have restful, no anxiety sleep...

[Blue Ensign]

Nice job on the rat lines Ron, I’m with you on the ‘eyeballing’ method, I found a pattern behind the shrouds got in the way of my clove hitching. 

 

B.E.

 

 

[Theodosius]

I'm with Blue Ensign: good idear with one improved side kick boat, and let enough space to see all the work on the main deck. But then a whole stack of boats has also something for itself, so, no wrong way here, but again: I like your improved small boat very much 🙂

[hollowneck]

15 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Nice job on the rat lines Ron, I’m with you on the ‘eyeballing’ method, I found a pattern behind the shrouds got in the way of my clove hitching. 

 

 

3 hours ago, Theodosius said:

I'm with Blue Ensign: good idear with one improved side kick boat,

Thanks B.E. & Theodosius. Progress at this point is measured in very incremental steps, slow and steady as she goes.

 

I just ordered some needed materials for sailmaking and creating diorama water...having these on a shelf to stare at gives me additional incentive to plow forward - not that I dislike these final rigging stages. Another somewhat tedious but important mini-project (before making sails and "bending" them to their spars) is crafting a few dozen rope coils.

 

I'm saving the painting of Chris' included superbly sculpted 3D resin figure for last: for my build, it's Camilla's beloved Captain Pennypincher, who - when after all the sails are bent and unfurled - has told his crew they'll get an extra ration of grog.

[mtaylor]

The crew deserves extra grog rations for sure.  Just keep an eye on them so they don't stagger over the side.

[Matt D]

Beautiful rigging work, Ron!

[hollowneck]

The "fighting tops" railing cloths (screens) have been added to all masts. 

I hand painted strips of bond copier paper with "crimson" acrylic, then trimmed each panel to fit its railing. The "cloths" are attached with tiny spots of matte medium to hold them in place. When dried, I laced a .1 mm rope along the wooden top rail to simulate the lacing of these cloth panels to the railings. The lacing rope is the same material as the crowsfeet rope.

Aft view of the mounted cloth screens.

I decided to change Camilla's deck color. It's taken me awhile to figure out how to accomplish this rather dramatic change to my model. The lighter colored decking (still visible on the midship's gun deck that I've lived with thus far in the build) just wasn't going to "cut it" for my ship's eventual diorama setting; HMS Camilla will be pursuing an enemy ship (French schooner. Who else?) on a choppy sea in the English Channel with plenty of water drama.

 

After several test tries on leftover deck material with varying wood colors, I chose one that would simulate a slightly weathered oak deck, for a considerably darker "used" look. I chose the alcohol-based Promarker ink (Cinnamon) color, which to my eyes, did the trick. I also rubbed this alcohol stain with a pinky fingertip (where it would fit!), small cotton tip swabs as well as using a dry brush technique with a tiny 0000 lining brush to even-out the coloring and to minimize "splotchiness." I still have some delicate work left to do in a few areas to achieve a little more consistency.

 

I didn't want to go "overboard" with this weathering approach, just enough to make my ship's deck look more realistic to better match the rest of my build's color palette; it would be very easy to over do it.

Another view looking aft with my deck color change implemented. Again, the color shift to the darker oak decking is quite evident compared with the lower gundeck which still has the lighter color that I initially used on all the decking of the model. My strong overhead shop lighting emphasizes the uneven coloring on the gangway in the foreground. It isn't this obvious when the model is out from under the intense light where the decking doesn't appear quite as "orange" colored.

To similarly colorize the gundeck to match the upper deck's new color, I'll temporarily remove the boat and the three skids for better access. I'll use the same tiny brushes, mini cotton swabs and the Promarker tips to carefully apply the alcohol stain into the many nooks n' crannies per previous: this is going to take awhile to get right - and a challenge I wasn't anticipating at this late stage!

I wish I'd made this decking color decision much earlier - of course - since it would have been considerably easier to accomplish.

 

Once all the decking has been color-finessed, I'll get back to some interim rigging: mounting the breast stays. I will then warm-up my Ibex finger plane and Proxxon mini-lathe for shaping the spars...

 

 

Edited June 25, 2022 by hollowneck
additional text, grammar

[toms10]

Hi Ron

I like the new deck color. Sounds like a ton of work but it will be worth it in the end, especially if it makes you happy. If you are not happy with something that will become your point focus whenever you look at the model. Us OCD people need to stick together. 😂

 

Tom

[hollowneck]

1 hour ago, toms10 said:

I like the new deck color. Sounds like a ton of work but it will be worth it in the end, especially if it makes you happy. If you are not happy with something that will become your point focus whenever you look at the model. Us OCD people need to stick together. 😂

Hey Tom, you got that right! Spot the FLAW(s), that's all you'll ever see of your own work...unless you can deal with knowing this will be the case afterwards. As the Budweiser beer slogan a few years back reminded us: " If you poke it, you own it!"

This will be a ton of work, but I'm more than halfway on changing the deck color. My photos (old iPhone) are a little too warm and the "orange hue" is much less pronounced in real life. I've judged it to look a little like teak. This shipyard has the BEST PRECIOUS TIMBER!!!

Thanks for your encouragement. I'm anxious to see your next OCD project.

Edited June 23, 2022 by hollowneck

[hollowneck]

On 6/21/2022 at 8:59 PM, Matt D said:

Beautiful rigging work, Ron!

Thank you, Matt. Late night rigging keeps us out of the local bars...

[hollowneck]

There are no less than 26 mast stays on this ship. These long, heavy ropes hold and stabilize the topmasts (and topgallants). Without a doubt - for this modeler - the stays are the most challenging aspect of rigging a ship of the era. Shrouds and ratlines are tedious but pretty straightforward to achieve without too many challenges - as shown in my previous posts. This is not the case with all the mast stays. It is very easy to get the port-to-starboard tensioning of these lines wrong. If one doesn't proceed with caution on this rigging step, the masts will easily bend, or appear askew. Each stay line (again, 26 of them) risks pulling the masts out of visually acceptable side-to-side alignment. The stays exert forces on the slender topmasts that need to be carefully "balanced."

 

To help get this aspect of rigging correct, I alternate the stays from port-to-starboard and, when possible, leave all the final alignment tensioning until both sides have their stays in-place. I find this symmetry crucial. The various blocks and deadeyes on all the stays permit selective tensioning and work identically to their real-world counterparts.

 

Also, setting-up the control blocks and fall lines for the stays - in their very tight channel quarters - also contributes to the challenges of the late-stage standing rigging.

 

I've started with the foremast stays; shown here is the breast backstay (on the right) and the shifting backstay. The arrows point to the unusual spots to tie-off the fall lines from each tackle block. The falls wrap around the base of each shroud deadeye at the channel boards. Each stay shown here has three (3) tackle blocks, in three descending sizes (5, 4 & 3 mm). Setting-up the tackle off the model I find is close to impossible. Some of these blocks can be set-up with a third hand clamping tool but getting the length of the lines (particularly important for side-to-side symmetry) to be evenly positioned can only be accomplished by adjusting each stay tackle in-situ, by eye and with some temporary alligator clip clamping.

This view points to the three blocks necessary for the breast backstay and shifting backstay tackle lines. The breast backstay fall lines (on the right) can be seen tied-off and lying at the base of two shroud deadeyes (below the right arrow). The main tackle block for the breast backstay is a 5mm single sheave one (topmost block); the shifting backstay has a 5mm double sheave.

All my blocks are pear and from either Falkonet and Syren Ship Models. I stain my rigging blocks to make them appear darker per their real world counterparts.

Stay lines in progress on the foremast. The arrows point to three lines temporarily rigged. A fourth line ( the port side foremast shifting backstay) is the next up for mounting. The first stays (breaststays) have been "tensioned" so that the topmast isn't skewed sideways. The stays will get secured at the tackle blocks (and deadeyes) after all the stay lines are rigged to the respective mast. Your model must be constantly rotated during all these critical processes to view the affects of your work with these rigging processes. If you can't see what you're doing with these rope lines and how they affect the mast positions you're going to run into highly unsatisfactory results.

 

Like the "ratlining" ("ratt'lin down") from the earlier stage, none of this work can be hurried.

Edited June 25, 2022 by hollowneck

[Blue Ensign]

Nice shots of the channels and deadeye rigging Ron, I like the realistic look, can barely tell it's a model.

 

B.E.

[hollowneck]

The backstays...continued.

Setting-up a backstay with just one of the handy, flexible arms of my QuadHands jig. To hold the small blocks securely, I slip a smaller alligator into the jaws of a larger alligator. That's called Natural Selection!...Before I ran the block's tackle ropes I colored the boxwood block (see below).

A view of the slightly cumbersome, yet extremely helpful jig that helps get tricky rigging jobs done.

A close-up of the Matte Medium adhesive I use on block lashings; it sets pretty rapidly...in the background, some Syren Ship Models DIY 3 mm deadeyes.

After lashing the boxwood double sheave block to the stay line I colored it with the alcohol-based ProMarker to match the ship's other blocks.

Hidden amongst the deadeyes is a small (3 mm) single sheave block that has to tuck into a very tight spot for the shifting backstay tackle lines. I wish I'd mounted these when I was setting-up the deadeye shrouds...

I ran out of 5 mm double sheave pear blocks. Luckily, had a small lot of boxwood ones from Syren Ship Models in my stash. These blocks are nice but require some adroit filing so that the rope will optimally nest in the grooves. Very fiddly...but the diamond flat file makes pretty fast work of prepping these guys...the outside edges of the these blocks also need to be rounded-off slightly.

My diamond dust- encrusted flat file and indispensable #72 thumbdrill. More Syren Ship Model build-them-yourself, three-layer, superduper, lasered boxwood 3 mm deadeyes.  Once you've assembled them (easy) and break them off their "sprues," the holes need to be opened-up, the rope recess needs filing and finally the edges need to be rounded-off, just like the square blocks. I also ran out of these small deadeyes. I needed just two more to finish-up the backstay rigging. I have no idea why I ran out. Looked all over the floor for too long. Cleaned my workbench. Checked all the little baggies one more time. I know there are two Vanguard-supplied ones lurking somewhere. I'll find them after I've prepped these and completed the stay. That's the way of the model ship builder.

The thumbdriill makes yet another cameo appearance. In addition to opening the DIY deadeyes from Syren, their boxwood blocks also need their holes opened-up, especially after coloring which I suspect shrinks them ever-so-slightly and makes it impossible to get any rigging line through the sheaves.

A progress photo. Main and Foremast stays completed. Mizzen stays left to do, then Voilá!...off to manufacture her 13 spars, July's task. If this Vanguard kit is your first, you can be confident that the extensive rigging plan sheets included with the kit are comprehensive and accurate. There are some nicely drawn rigging details to point in the right directions, but the numerous processes and techniques is one of the reasons you're here in the MSW forum; if you have questions about any aspect of this challenging process, the helpful answers are likely posted and explained here in Build Logs like this and in the extensive topical categories.

Checking the position of the topmast for perpendicularity. My small level (like my short steel ruler) is very helpful. It's got a magnetized strip on one edge so I simply stick it on a nearby lamp so it's at-hand and doesn't get lost on my bench.

The bubble knows! Checking the level of the hull BEFORE checking anywhere else, per the previous photo on checking the perpendicular alignment of a topmast. I'm confident that the placement of my level at this particular checkpoint reports an evenly balanced hull.

More bubble reporting. Once the tops are level with the previously-checked stern level, the arrow points to a good sign you'll get the topmasts even when you tighten-up and secure all the mast backstays.

 

I included these leveling photos to show the process I use for aligning and mounting all the stays. Once the multiple levels are checked, you can then visually verify that the topmasts aren't skewed to either starboard or port by looking straight-on from the bow: all the masts should align. From either side of the model, it's also important to see that you haven't over-tightened the stays; doing so will cause the topmasts and gallants to bend toward the stern at an unnatural angle. This should be pretty obvious if you've over(or under) done it. The mainmast is raked slightly to aft, the mizzen mast slightly more so whereas the foremast should be dead vertical to the waterline/foc'sle deck.

Edited June 28, 2022 by hollowneck
added text and grammar

[hollowneck]

I added more rigging detailing before moving on to the next stage of making HMS Camilla's spars.

While I still had decent access to this area of my build, I added the "snaking" to the ship's fore & main stays. These ropes were likely to be trussed in anticipation of enemy action, beginning around the 1780's. The continuous trapezoidal rope between strengthened the critical mast stays; if one became shot-through (enemy gunners aimed for this rigging), the snaking ropes helped to distribute the loading to the remaining stay.

 

What happened if both stays were severed by a lucky shot? Beats me!

What's good for the Main is good for the Fore.

I've addressed the deck coloring midships: slightly weathered oak planking. The gun deck now conforms to the balance of the decking, fore and aft. I've placed the skids back along with the ship's boat. The boat will carry 6 oars across its thwarts when all is said and done. A spare main topmast will sit alongside the boat, atop the skids, to port (I'll make this when I start turning the spars)

Another view of the color-matched planking on the gun deck. I haven't decided yet on whether or not to add netting ropes to the midship hammock cranes. I can do this up and to the point when I start adding all the sail management lines. After the yards are braced and their sails are bent, working in this area will be difficult.

There are a total of 11 crane stanchions provided in P/E. I've used 8 on each side. Tucking the remaining 3 stanchions into the crazy-tight spacing directly above the main channels and between the shroud stay rigging was an exercise in futility - and, frankly, looked kluged. I figure this minor detail omission of 3 stanchions wasn't critical. I still wanted to include these nice and realistic embellishments provided by Chris as they are easily visible alongside the delicate q'deck railings. The rope here matches the safety ropes on the foc'sle and along the hammock cranes on the gangways. I don't plan to add rope netting along these lines.

 

Some eagle-eyed members will notice that I've secured the emergency steering ropes to the mizzen channel boards; these ropes (on starboard and port) were stowed here - particularly during anticipated enemy action - so that if the steering became impaired for any reason  - or even if the rudder became partially "unshipped," (usually by scraping on the bottom of shallow, unknown waters) - these heavy emergency ropes could provide critical purchase to the rudder by the crew.

I stepped back to take in the "Big Picture." With considerable work still ahead of me to finish her rigging, she's now finally looking like a lean, mean, fighting machine.

Note: I added the q'deck rope stanchions after these last two photos were taken.

 

I can't wait to see her with raised and braced yards, stunsails deployed, dressed in her billowing finery. Everything on the rigging plan seen on my workshop's corkboard has been checked-off...

In a couple simple words, this is a magnificent kit. The box of pieces is nearly depleted with HMS Camilla taking beautiful form.

 

From here on out, I'm pretty much making the Vanguard model my own by going beyond the comprehensive rigging plans as I anticipate adding her wings, the large canvas that will move her across the waves.

 

Edited June 30, 2022 by hollowneck
spelling & grammar

[Blue Ensign]

She's looking very impressive  Ron, and that is excellent work on the snaking, not the easiest task to get looking right.

 

Well done.

 

 

B.E.

[Theodosius]

Lovely! This is also one of these logs, that make me want to build wooden ship models! 🙂

[glbarlow]

You’ve definitely made it your own, it looks great. I’d never seen snaking, a nice touch. 

[hollowneck]

10 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

She's looking very impressive  Ron, and that is excellent work on the snaking, not the easiest task to get looking right.

Thank You, B.E. Like other rigging "portfolio " of tasks, making this look credible is a little tricky; one of the issues is to select the best scale rope size, similar to the crowsfeet rigging. 

6 hours ago, Theodosius said:

Lovely! This is also one of these logs, that make me want to build wooden ship models! 🙂

Build one Theodosius! If my log is an incentive for you, then I'll feel very gratified for your look-ins when you post your own log for a wooden model. No pressure...😂

[hollowneck]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

You’ve definitely made it your own, it looks great. I’d never seen snaking, a nice touch.

Thank you, Glenn. I follow your logs and your work is beautiful. I respect your comments immensely.

On my "snaking" addition...my wife (my best critic) recently asked: "What does that zig-zaggy thingie do?" I responded: "Snakes On Board!"😂

 

A lot of the fun for me in our hobby is digging into details and discovering little "nuggets" in the various histories of all things maritime. Another example: my addition of the fighting top "cloths." There is a vast encyclopedia of information out there as well as in our amazing FREE forum!

Edited June 30, 2022 by hollowneck