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MSB 6 by Gbmodeler - FINISHED - 1/96 scale - 1952 United States Mine Sweeping Boat


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I think Roger and Imagna solved the WIS mystery for me.    The photo Imagna posted looks very much like what I'm seeing in my long-distant, fuzzy photos.  Photos of pelorus instruments do too.  So, regardless of whether it was a alidade or a pelorus instrument, I now know what it looks like close up.  I think that's it!

 

I can' t tell you all who provide information, how appreciated it is!

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You're welcome. During General Quarters, my battle station was in the radio shack, so I never got to see actual sweeping operations,

although I'm certain those cables floated. We never had to sweep live mines on my tour, just dummies, but I'll always remember the

40mm cannon on the bow shaking the entire ship when it was fired at one (at least I think it was a 40mm). Also, I always kept in my

mind the image of a giant photo in the Minelant headquarters building in Charleston of a South Korean minesweeper being blown

to bits after hitting one.

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An interesting feature of these boats were the masker air-emitter belts.  Two band of half-round pipes created bubbles to mask boat noises from acoustic mines.  I was fortunate to find close-up photos of these pipes on the internet, and they were easy to make from plastic strip and half-round tubing.  The hard part was re-painting the hull, since I put them on as an after thought....🙄

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The cranes on the rear of the boat are a notable feature.  They were not large, and used a hand crank, making them look a little like a fishing reel and rod.  I made mine from various sizes of styrene rod, plastic strip, Grandt Line bolts, string, and some wire for reel handles.  I also drilled holes in the reels so I could "wire" the cables, later...

 

First I bent the plastic rod to shape after holding it in boiling water briefly (with tongs) to soften it...8A72F1AF-2DBC-424E-A5FC-5F2D09184D58.thumb.jpeg.888b7703c0891b080b0852c1922df7fd.jpeg

 

The ends were then tapered and shaped, with "pulleys" added...898B0497-A856-4336-96CF-ABF8C2F89280.thumb.jpeg.2ca13d55ab29ea2d3c03647b80497689.jpeg

Plastic strip was wrapped around the rod to represent braces; string was used for pulley straps, and; the reel was built...

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Lastly, bases were made from larger plastic rod, and the cranes were painted and installed...

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Making cleats out of basswood strips cut from a 1/32" sheet.  The process starts with a long and short strip glued together with PA.  Filing is done with a small round file and emery board (nail file).  Little copper wire is then inserted into holes drilled in the bottom.  Hopefully, this will keep them in place, even if rigging is tied to them.  I also coated them with extra thin CA glue for added strength....

 

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The bulwarks were a little problem because of their design.  In real life, they were constructed like most bulwarks, except a thin strake at the deck line was omitted to form scuppers.  That was contrary to what I usually build.

 

Normally, I would continue planking above the deck line to form the bulwarks, and the scuppers are drilled out later.  This method usually creates strong bulwarks attached to the planks below.  I add false "ribs" (or frames) along the bulwark, later.

 

However, on this boat, there is a missing strake along the deck lines.  How can I attach the bulwark to the hull without frames.  I was a little afraid that by omitting a strake along the deck line, and using false frames, the bulwarks would be weakly attached, fragile, and easily damaged.  However, it appears to be okay, even though I used false frames along the bulwark...

 

The bulwark plank was made from thin birch plywood, like is used in model airplane construction.  False basswood frames were attached with PA glue.BE6039B9-4BC9-47C7-B8B8-2A80DF2DFA0D.thumb.jpeg.d1ccddaa801126eb71fe13fdf59af840.jpeg

The top of the ribs were cut off and sanded smooth to the plywood...

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The bulwark was tightly taped to a metal ruler so I could make the lower portion of the frames all the same length.  The excess wood was snipped off with sprue cutters and sanded smooth to the ruler...ACABC255-1AE6-4151-80FE-D258E84B9DDD.thumb.jpeg.27f53f54cd8807d2eb7d92c01b97e837.jpeg

 

The bulkhead being tested for fit...E3265DAB-7659-4336-BD71-F19379F1862F.thumb.jpeg.ffcbef1b3924e404d979afb7c684a442.jpeg

Howser holes and other openings were cut out, and thin copper wire was shaped to form frames around the hawser holes.  Small copper wires were inserted in some ribs to help install the bulwark, give it strength, and shape it to the lines of the hull.  I then primed the parts...

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Holes drilled in the top plank received the wire pegs, and each frame was hit with CA glue.  Here's the final installation...

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More little projects that are filling my days:  First, the boxes for the side-lights were pretty easy.  Scraps of left-over basswood plywood from the keel and frame seemed like just the right thickness.  I plan to find or build some lenses for the lights later...

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The paravanes were much more daunting.  I built the body for the short, stubby one from styrene tube.  The tube was plugged with glue and old model sprue, then shaped by hand with files, emery boards, and sandpaper.  Fins and wings were crafted from styrene sheet and rod.  A bit of wire will be used for the lift ring...

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The side paravanes were shaped from soft wood dowel (I think a very soft pine).  Again, plastic sheet was used for fins, and bits of wire for lift rings, etc.  Pictures of the real thing show them with a flat, twisted loop of metal on the bottom.  This might be a mine-cable cutter?  Anyway, I was able to re-create it with a thin brass strip.  The metal was first heated to take out the temper and make it more pliable.  Glad we have a gas stove....😁18E9C7B7-3636-4707-9A69-0DB007EB6F1B.thumb.jpeg.21ba734a75d8fac4fd38fdaf0e4bac54.jpegF6449E79-52A8-4CF0-8A07-C8CE31920E16.thumb.jpeg.4341b92f8ff1950a7db194c8e77a9180.jpeg9AE86B8F-52C6-434E-B16C-26AFAFC6B46E.thumb.jpeg.a541ff60e9f0ec387486d253a814356e.jpeg544FB9A3-5102-4928-8590-C903C2D38C85.thumb.jpeg.a7debd3cba5ff5ff98ec080a6244267f.jpeg2B8D44B7-A2ED-41C0-A2C5-4CDEA8F67E21.thumb.jpeg.721af892d80161410216134eab559cd8.jpeg 

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Your model just keeps looking better and better.

 

 Strictly speaking those are not paravanes.  Paravanes included the depth control, splaying out, and mine cable cutting functions in one unit.  They were used to protect ships not engaged in minesweeping in waters where mines could be present.

 

The short, fat, item is a “hammer box.”  Towed behind the boat, it created noise to set off acoustic mines.

 

The other two are floats that were attached to the ends of the sweep cable when sweeping contact mines.  These floats would have performed two of the three functions of paravanes; depth control and splaying the sweep cable outboard from the vessel doing the sweeping.  They often were had little flags on top to give those conning the vessel a visual reference.  As I posted earlier, the actual cutting of the mine’s mooring cable was performed by cutters fastened along the sweep cable.

 

Roger

 

 

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4 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

Your model just keeps looking better and better.

 

 Strictly speaking those are not paravanes.  Paravanes included the depth control, splaying out, and mine cable cutting functions in one unit.  They were used to protect ships not engaged in minesweeping in waters where mines could be present.

 

The short, fat, item is a “hammer box.”  Towed behind the boat, it created noise to set off acoustic mines.

 

The other two are floats that were attached to the ends of the sweep cable when sweeping contact mines.  These floats would have performed two of the three functions of paravanes; depth control and splaying the sweep cable outboard from the vessel doing the sweeping.  They often were had little flags on top to give those conning the vessel a visual reference.  As I posted earlier, the actual cutting of the mine’s mooring cable was performed by cutters fastened along the sweep cable.

 

Roger

 

 

Thanks Roger!  I was hoping someone would give me more info on the equipment!

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Starting work on the mast, which was made out of a sanded-down and tapered bamboo skewer.  A small sliver of turned basswood was used for the cross-tree, and inserted through a hole drilled in the mast.  To strengthen the cross-tree and its junction with the mast, it was saturated in very thin CA glue.  

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Further research of the Number 6 boat showed I had to change some things around.  The pilot house spotlight had to be elevated by the railing and a small air vent was situated in its old position near the center of the roof.  You can see how the windows are masked with "Silly Putty" to protect the "glass" from future gloss-coat and dull-coat paint applications.  The gloss-coat will be applied to facilitate decal application, and before the mast and rigging are installed.  The dull-coat application will be last, to finish off the model.  You will also notice the model railroad bell I installed earlier, but forgot to mention...

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Besides the mast and rigging, the last structures to complete were the racks for the oropesa floats.  These were made from plastic sheet.  I built them on a plastic sheet base, and the cut them out later...

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Here are the floats mounted on their racks.  The flags are made from paper...

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After a little light dry-brushing, I think she's ready for the gloss-coat and decals!B43F004C-9C7B-4945-BE55-C79CB19AA965.thumb.jpeg.534c95005f0180b6e63f63f8668521f0.jpeg

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Making hooks for the cranes, and running lights for the mast...

 

Hooks start life as a hair-thin piece of copper wire.  The wire is twisted around a pin-vise bit and then bent to shape as shown below...

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The running lights were made from styrene rod and strip, along with plastic model railroad bolts.  The bolts look like the light covers I saw in photos of the real thing...

 

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The bolt was glued to the end of the rod with plastic cement...

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Then, in an attempt to make all the lights the same height, I put the rod through a circle gauge and filed off anything that stuck out.  The smallest hole in the circle gauge was too large, so I had to drill my own...

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The plastic strip was used for platforms, and glued to the mast.  A little wedge of plastic sheet formed the support bracket...E629F6F9-C22F-46A1-A1B8-16E128F7013C.jpeg.694abf968a64eb8ceba9f12216691853.jpeg

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I completed the rigging and applied the decals.  Then I applied a pin wash of black artist oil paint heavily diluted with mineral spirits.  The base coat of paint is acrylic, so the excess from the oil based pin wash can be removed fairly easily.  It can darken/stain the acrylic paint, but an acrylic gloss coat over the base paint helps prevent that.  I like the way the pin wash brings-out the tiny details, that would otherwise go un-noticed...

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Started building the display base using a $1.99 pine plaque and some decorative finials from the local craft store.  Strong piano wire will pass through the stand and into the boat via holes drilled through the keel.  I also notched the finials to accommodate the keel....

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Letting the stain soak in....

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Some little details I did not mention earlier:  a compass-looking decal in the pilot house stand, coated with Testor's Clear Parts Cement;  a little cleat (from wire) and rope (invisible thread monofilament) on the jackstaff, and;  an MV Products lens in the search light...

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Sweet model of a workhorse type that one seldom sees modeled.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Very nice model.  Congratulations on a job well done.

 

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

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  • 3 weeks later...

Congratulations!  Very well done!

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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Lovely little boat. Well done.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Very well done!  I love the detail and using Train parts for ships!  Your scratchbuilding skills are to be commended!

Brad/NavyShooter

 

Pending Launch: RMS Titanic - 1/100 - 3D Print - Pond Float display

Build Log:   HMCS Bonaventure- 1/96 - A Fitting Out

Completed Build:  HMCS St Thomas - 1/48 - 3D printed Bens Worx

Completed Build:  3D Printed Liberty Ship - 1/96 - RC

 

A slightly grumpy, not quite retired ex-RCN Chief....hanging my hat (or helmet now...) in the Halifax NS area. 

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  • 1 month later...

Found your log toor late to follow it. I love you attention to detail. Also the discussion about the minesweepers were very interesting. Witing to s follow your next build. Great job, thanks.

Ras

 

Current builds:

Stern Paddle Wheeler ZULU-1916-1/48 scale

Previous builds:

Freccia Celeste-1927 350cc racing motorcycle-1:9 scale-Protar kit

Boeing B17F- 1/72 scale- Hasegawa kit

HMS Mimi-scale 1/24-Fast Motor Launch                               

Amapá 1907-1/64 scale-Brazilian Customs Cruiser

Scottish Motor Fifie. 1/32 scale. Amati kit

Patricia. Steam powered R/C launch. 1/12 scale. Krick Kit

African Queen. Steam powered  R/C launch. 1/24 scale. Billings ki

Emma C. Berry. Sailing fishing smack. 1/32 scale. Model Shipways kit.

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