1936 Rolls Royce Phantom III by CDW - Revell - 1:16 scale

[CDW]

This represents a change of plan. Had intended to start a F-4G Phantom next, but now decided to do this instead. This kit has been in my possession a very long time and it’s time to come out of the box. 

[Dave_E]

The Theater is open! 🍿🥤

[yvesvidal]

That is an incredibly old kit. I had never seen it before.

 

Yves

[Jack12477]

I'm in 🍺🌭🍟

[CDW]

8 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

That is an incredibly old kit. I had never seen it before.

 

Yves

About 30, maybe 35 years old now.

[CDW]

11 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

That is an incredibly old kit. I had never seen it before.

 

Yves

About 30, maybe 35 years old now. They reboxed a Japanese kit for this...Aoshima I think.

Edit: I just checked: it was from Gunze originally.

Edited November 9, 2022 by CDW

[Old Collingwood]

I'm  in also  Craig.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

1985 Vintage, 37 years young.... There's one available on evilbay right now at $265.00...

 

I sold mine three years ago for 175....

 

I'm in, it's a gorgeous model worth doing right...

[CDW]

Just now, Egilman said:

1985 Vintage, 37 years young.... There's one available on evilbay right now at $265.00...

 

I sold mine three years ago for 175....

 

I'm in, it's a gorgeous model worth doing right...

Dang, I just started an old model that's been sitting around here for over 30 years and now learn it was worth almost half of that I needed to buy the 1:32 Border Models Lancaster (Wingnut Wings design). Sheesh...what have I done? Oh well, maybe I can sell it built. Done that many times before.

[CDW]

Probably one of the first things I'll do with this model is to strip most all the chrome plated parts. Need to start thinking about a jig to make my own spoked wheels, too.

[popeye the sailor]

might be a good idea.....back then,  there wasn't much in the way of 'real' chrome on 'em. 

[CDW]

Couple of years ago, bought some tubes of AK True Metal wax paste in various metallic shades. I never got around to using it so decided to try some out on the Rolls V-12 engine block. Photos I’ve seen of the engine appear to be unpainted metal, so I first covered the engine block in a black primer then applied some AK true metal iron color then polished it a bit. Maybe it’s just me, but I thought it looked too silver. 

 

Next I applied some gun metal color and buffed it. It’s a shade or two darker. I think I like the gun metal for this piece. It’s going to get shaded and dirtied up a bit later so this will just serve as a base color for the block.

Edited November 9, 2022 by CDW

[Egilman]

28 minutes ago, CDW said:

Couple of years ago, bought some tubes of AK True Metal wax paste in various metallic shades.

Yeah that's AK's answer to Rub n Buff... The engine in those was a cast Iron block with aluminum heads... and I believe they were painted... Hard shell black I believe and very very shiny...

 

I haven't done any research on it though, just remembering off the top of my head... Cast steel is too light and when fresh has a slight shine to it... Cast Iron is more a greyish black or real deep gray with no direct sheen... it sorta glows instead...

 

Yeah a black wash on what you've done would look good for an in-service used engine.....

[CDW]

13 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Yeah that's AK's answer to Rub n Buff... The engine in those was a cast Iron block with aluminum heads... and I believe they were painted... Hard shell black I believe and very very shiny...

 

I haven't done any research on it though, just remembering off the top of my head... Cast steel is too light and when fresh has a slight shine to it... Cast Iron is more a greyish black or real deep gray with no direct sheen... it sorta glows instead...

 

Yeah a black wash on what you've done would look good for an in-service used engine.....

Cast metal block with black cylinder heads

 

 

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, CDW said:

Cast metal block with black cylinder heads

 

Well my memory still works in my old age.... {chuckle}

 

I'm glad you got an in-service engine shot as well, usually they are all polished up like show cars.... and they seldom look that way in real life...

 

Look like you got it covered brother...

[Canute]

I'm in, too, Craig. Interesting paint schemes.

[yvesvidal]

I wonder how this Gunze/Revell kit compares with the Pocher/Protar/Italeri kits? 

It will be interesting to see your build.

 

Yves

[CDW]

19 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

I wonder how this Gunze/Revell kit compares with the Pocher/Protar/Italeri kits? 

It will be interesting to see your build.

 

Yves

The comparison is closer to Protar, although it’s my opinion the Gunze kits are a bit better molded while Protar gives multi media parts in their kits, Gunze does not. Gunze Kia are typical of Japanese models from the 70’s. Back then they were considered high quality. Poacher is in a league all their own, twice the size and orders of magnitude more parts.

[CDW]

I didn't care for the AK True Metal paste I used on the engine block, so I decided to strip it off and go another route. I'll take this opportunity to show what I use to strip paint and the "chrome" off of molded plastic parts. It's a product many in the plastic modeling community are familiar with, called Super Clean. It come in gallon size plastic jugs, and I buy mine from the automotive section of Wal Mart. Seels for around $10 a gallon last time I bought some. It will last a long, long time, and can be used over and over again, just pour it back into the jug after use.

It stripped the wax off the engine block in just seconds, using a stiff brush to loosen the paste from cracks and crevices. Took it all the way down to my primer, which was Mr Color lacquer. Had I left it in the solution for an hour or so, it would have stripped the primer as well, down to bare plastic. If you use it to strip a model that's been painted a long time, like years, it may need overnight and a toothbrush the next day to loosen and remove the paint. it will not harm clear plastic such as canopies and windows, so that's a plus.

Next, I am using it to strip my chrome parts tree. What I really like about it, it also removes the clear paint that's underneath the chrome. The clear paint is part of the plastic plating process. Other methods such as brake fluid or bleach will also remove the chrome plating, but it won't remove the clear paint under the plating. Not to mention the fact that brake fluid is just a p-i-t-a to get rid of when you're done with it, AND it fogs/ruins clear plastic. I know, I know, I also used it back in the day but that was all we had back then except for spray-on oven cleaner, and that has all its own set of drawbacks. Stripping the chrome tree down to bare plastic usually takes a couple of hours, and sometimes a toothbrush to scrub the parts a bit to remove stubborn clear paint.

Just a word or two of caution: make sure to wear latex gloves and keep the Super Clean off your bare skin. Do not put your uncovered hands down into it. Keep it off/away from anything you don't want damaged in case you accidentally spill it. Lastly, use a container with a lid if you are using the product indoors. 

 

 

Edited November 10, 2022 by CDW

[CDW]

The yellowish tint on the parts tree is the clear paint under the chrome that has not been removed yet. In another hour or so, I will scrub the parts a bit with a toothbrush and rinse them off. They will be bare plastic then.

 

[yvesvidal]

That purple Super Clean chemical is really great. I use it a lot for all kinds of purposes.

 

Yves

[Egilman]

2 hours ago, CDW said:

The yellowish tint on the parts tree is the clear paint under the chrome that has not been removed yet. In another hour or so, I will scrub the parts a bit with a toothbrush and rinse them off. They will be bare plastic then.

I've been using it for several years now, it's the only stuff I've found that removes that dielectric lacquer from the parts as well... Cleanup is a breeze and it's biodegradable... Brake fluid, Concentrated Bleach and oven cleaner are a thing of the past....

 

Best stuff available bar none....

[CDW]

Painted the heads with Tamiya semi gloss black, then masked them off and painted the block with Mr Metal Color iron. After spraying it on, gave the iron a little buff with a soft cotton rag. I think this is more convincing than the AK paste.

[Edwardkenway]

 Nice car, I'm in

[CDW]

Looking at the three engine compartment photos, the 1st is somewhat different than the other 2. I think that possibly the first photo is of a different year model, maybe? The first photo seems more original as the other two photos appear to be maybe, restored? For sure the second two photos are of a cleaner engine compartment, but I think maybe the first one is more original. Any thoughts?

My kit does not have what looks in the first photo to be some type of coolant reservoir just behind the radiator and in front of the cylinder heads.

Been off on other tangents of late and haven't done a whole lot of work on the model. Will have some update photos, hopefully in the next few days. The age of this kit and the engineering of it bring back memories as I work on it. Reminiscent in some ways of the old JoHan classic car kits but a much larger, 1:16 scale. A little crude by today's standards. More attention required to prepping the parts before assembly as well as filling minor gaps and other little flaws here and there. This Rolls Royce has a very distinct and unusual chassis and suspension setup. You'll see it when I get there.🙂  

[Egilman]

The first pic look like it's taken of an everyday driver, the second and third pics look like a restored show car... the coolant expansion chamber on the left side radiator hose prevented overheating... This was the period where thermal efficiency was taking over ICE engineering... They learned that a pressurized coolant system virtually eliminated overheating....

 

I would say two different dates of manufacture.... It's the logical conclusion....

[CDW]

My baby girl graduated with her bachelors degree this morning in New Hampshire. Wife and big sisters are up there with her while I babysit our dog, Snowball, here at home in sunny Florida.

Edited November 19, 2022 by CDW

[Dave_E]

Congratulations Dad! 👍😀

[Keith Black]

 Congratulations, Craig.

[Egilman]

Good job.... Congratulations...