Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build

[yvesvidal]

14 hours ago, Chuck said:

Beautiful construction Chuck, as always with your models. 

 

Yves

[Chuck]

Thank You guys.

 

I am going to try and get more frames done this weekend.  But it will be slow going from this point forward.  This is as boring and repetitive as making cannon carriages.  But it has to be done.

 

Chuck

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Unlike building guns, I find building frames meditative and relaxing. It's looking really good.

[Goodshipvenus]

Just curious, what would have been the reason for rigging a small ship like Speedwell as a ketch instead of a brig or cutter?

[Stuntflyer]

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

This is as boring and repetitive as making cannon carriages. 

Repetitive, yes. Having made all of the frames scratch on Hayling, I never found it boring. I’d rather do that than carriages any day. But, that’s just me.

 

looking really nice!

 

Mike

[yvesvidal]

20 hours ago, Chuck said:

I am going to try and get more frames done this weekend.  But it will be slow going from this point forward.  This is as boring and repetitive as making cannon carriages.  But it has to be done.

Chuck

I know the feeling....after building some 70 cannons of various sizes for the Bellona.

 

Yves

Edited December 6, 2022 by yvesvidal

[Chuck]

3 hours ago, Goodshipvenus said:

Just curious, what would have been the reason for rigging a small ship like Speedwell as a ketch instead of a brig or cutter?

I really dont know......good question.

 

Chuck

[dvm27]

4 hours ago, Goodshipvenus said:

Just curious, what would have been the reason for rigging a small ship like Speedwell as a ketch instead of a brig or cutter?

The ships of the Cruizer class, of which Speedwell was one, were built in 1752-1754 to address the prevailing French and Austrian Wars. The Admiralty wanted fast, shallow draught ships that could carry out policing operations in the Channel and Foreland Stations and discourage French privateers and smugglers. Therefore, a variety of hull design and rig combinations was employed by the Admiralty to see which best fulfilled these requirements. Some were ketch rigged (Speedwell, Fly, Happy and Ranger) while others were snow rigged (Wolf and Cruiser). All this experimentation eventually led to a refinement wherein Cruiser was given a mizzen mast (1753) and ship rigged. This proved to be so successful that the ketch rigged sloops fell out of favor as the ship rigged sloop became prevalent. With the advent of the brig-of-war later in the century the snow rig once again gained popularity.

 

(From Building Plank on Frame Ship Models, Ron McCarthy. Naval Institute Press)

[Chuck]

Thank you Greg

[Hubac's Historian]

On 11/13/2022 at 3:22 PM, Chuck said:

The start of my build log...always a very exciting moment for a model builder!!

 

I am assuming most of you are somewhat familiar with the Ketch Rigged English Sloop Speedwell - 1752.   David Antscherl and Greg Herbert have produced a wonderful series of books for model builders on how to build a great model of her.   Not only can you build one as a POF model,  but as a POB and lift model as well.

 

Why would I choose this as my subject.  Those of you that know me,  I have always selected a subject that was unique at the time.  Never been done!!!  The Syren, The Winnie, The Cheerful etc.  I chose this subject for several reasons actually, knowing full well that this would become a commercial laser cut kit like my other Syren projects.

 

First- I never really wanted to build a POF model.  I prefer the look of a fully planked hull myself.  But the craftsman side of me won out as I was looking for a challenge beyond just another POB project.  I can build those and sometimes it feels like I am just going through the formulaic motions with each of them.   This would certainly be a design and engineering challenge as much as a builder challenge.

 

Second-  I am always increasingly frustrated and disappointed to regularly see pirated kits come out almost monthly as of late.  Mostly all the rage are those POF kits from China. 

 

A coincidence??  That almost all of them released are also subjects of Ancre, Seawatch, or Anatomy of the Ship Books.  I think not.

 

You may have noticed the latest pirated kit produced from one of David Antscherl's designs, the Hayling Hoy is now making its rounds.  None of the parts fit as is typical and the instructions render this kit almost unbuildable....again very typical.  Just check out the build logs of pirated Hayling kit from China on other forums.  Its a complete disaster and a waste of money.  Literally unbuildable but they are still selling them to unsuspecting builders.

 

So I reached out to David and Greg and asked them if I could develop the Speedwell before a really bad pirated version is released (and one is actually on the way-surprised?)  They agreed and are as excited as I am about it.  I just dont want to see a crappy unbuildable version of Speedwell being sold to builders.   Hopefully they will wait until this one is released.  Maybe I should do one of Hayling as well. LOL.

 

My goal...to design a kit based on the books where the parts actually do fit.   One that would encourage POF building for folks who want to give it a try.   To also write a set of English instructions that are in depth and easy to understand.  In short, to make a legitimate kit of from a Seawatch book under license and permission from the author with the authors help and guidance.  Will this stop folks from building the knock-off version when it comes out.....probably not.  But at least you will now have a choice.  The pirated version of Speedwell is currently almost ready and being done by the same company who pirated Hayling.   Coincidence again??  I think not.

 

Also and I dont mean to digress....but a pirated version of yet another Seawatch book....Ed Tosti's Naiad Frigate is also set for release very soon as well.   Again a coincidence...I think Not.    Why dont you ever see a subject from these guys that wasnt first a Seawatch Book or Ancre book?   Honest inquiring minds want to know.

 

Anyway

 

There will be differences between my Speedwell of course.  I will be modifying it for simplicity so  you dont have to be a master builder with every expensive tool in shop.   The design concept for this POF model will be unique and allow a novice and intermediate builder to tackle it.   It will also be at 3/8" scale which should also make it much easier to build.  BUT I will also make my Carvings available in 1/4" scale so folks building directly from the books will be able to buy them.  Some preliminary views of the unfinished CAD work on the carvings.  There is much work left t do on these but I hope you agree that they look pretty amazing so far.

 

 

Here is the preliminary framing plan which will show just how different it will be.

 

It will be planked from the wales upward so there is no reason to over complicate the project with bent frames....If you compared this to David's plan it is completely different.  BUT make no mistake.   Yes the folks who pirate these POF projects will claim its different and therefore original. 

 

BUT make no mistake.  This is a 100% copy of Davids work.   All of this is directly lifted from his plans and only modified to make production and building a bit easier.   But it is a copy...literally traced.  But the difference here is I give full credit to David and will be paying for the privilege to use his knowledge and expertise and hard work and years of research on this subject.  

 

I do hope you will swing over a chair and watch this new Speedwell project come to life.  A huge thank you to David and to Greg who will no doubt think I am pain in biscuit by the time this is completed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is really exciting and great for me, personally.  I have been searching for what my transitional project might be, and I love David and Greg's model of this pretty little ship.  I know that your kit will be first-rate.  It'll be a while before I dive-in, but this is exactly what I was looking for to accelerate my learning curve of POF construction.

[Tossedman]

It's interesting to see this starting to come to fruition. As a rookie I've got lots to learn and it's great to see so many different methods of ship building on the forums. One day, something like this will hopefully be on my plate.

 

Cheers,

 

Todd

[Chuck]

Work continues on the square frames....the assembly line is in full swing.  

 

Almost done with the Cad work on the carvings...I should have an update on my my frame progress soon.   

 

 

[Chuck]

Some work on the figurehead...

 

[Strelok]

Nice figurehead! I think, I will keep this picture in mind as an inspiration for my packet boat as Hermes was the god of mail and postmen and so on 

[Chuck]

Work continues on the square frames.  I thought I would post an update.  I worked my way aft and have all of those completed.  I am about two thirds completed with the square frames.  Its all been uneventful.   But here are a few pictures and some notes for folks who will be building her in the future.  It is so nice to be able to remove the model with this "jigged concept".   The cross bars that space the frames properly create a fantastic base so you can flip the hull over and do some progressive fairing.   I designed it so the stem and stern post will be in the clear when its flipped.  Its nice and sturdy to fair the hull.

 

The build board I was using cupped terribly so I had to make a new one.  It is important to have a perfectly flat build board.  This is a pressboard shelf that has white laminate on it.  It was perfectly flat and sturdy.  We shall see.

 

I also decided when I made the new build board to swap the aft support for a taller one.  This is the support that holds the stempost straight up and vertical and centered.  There was nothing wrong with the shorter one but I had a thought to make raising the frames even easier.   I glued a string to the top of the taller stern post support.   Then I ran it down to the center of the stem post and secured it in the center with some tape.   This will be a great reference for finding the center down the length of the hull.   

 

I laser etched an arrow down the center of the top jig cross pieces....it always faces forward.  But because its in the center, you can use the string to help you position each frame properly.   They must be centered port to starboard....this makes it very easy to do when you raise each square frame on the keel.

 

One thing I wanted to point out are the small wedges or "cradle parts"  under the first square frame in the photo above.   Once I had about six frames all done,  these laser cut pieces were placed under the frame on both sides for extra support.  They are laser cut to be a perfect fit under the center frames.    They will be included in the kit as well.

 

In addition,   you might notice that those cross pieces for each shorter frame are no longer needed once you have the sweep port and gun port parts glued on top of them.   The frames are grouped together and glued pretty solid.  You can see them in the earlier photo.

 

So they can be removed once you have those sweep port and gun port pieces glued in.

 

This will give you access to the inboard frames....well somewhat.   But I did do some progressive fairing of these frames inboard and out.   Outboard was easy enough.   Inboard is always a challenge.   But you can see that I have at least got the heavy stuff off inboard.   I use various chisels and my #11 blade to slice off the heavy stuff.   A rough fairing....then switch to some rifler files.   Then I switch to sandpaper.   It is best to get a start on this because it will be a real chore if you dont at least get the heavy stuff off.  I do this after every 5 or 6 square frames are raised.

 

Out board was easier but the same tools were used.

 

You can really start to see her lines start forming and the nice elegant shape into the stern....remember that the hull will be planked on both sides from the wales up to the shear.  Care is taken to line up the sweep ports and gun port sills.   I use a height guage or my square to transfer the heights from the framing plan to the model.

 

Here is a somewhat close up photo of the fairing into the rising wood.  These are last several square frames before the cant frames are started.   You can see how the rising wood was faired nicely into the run of the square frames.   This will make more sense to you if you are building it...LOL.

 

Anyway...that is the progress to date and I will now start on the forward section of square frames in the exact same manner.   It is a real pleasure to build upright and without all of that boxed scaffolding I see on other kits.  

[Jim Rogers]

Soooo looking forward to this one. At my age it will be my final build. LOL.

[bdgiantman2]

Speedwell is coming along beautifully. Great job on the construction process, Mr. Passaro, I am looking forward to learning lots from you with this build.

[Chuck]

Thank You guys...and happy New year

[scrubbyj427]

Beautiful work Chuck! I love how the frames are going together and I’m looking forward to seeing your innovative angled frames. Brilliant design! Happy new year!

[dvm27]

Lovely work Chuck. Seems like those frames take forever but you can turn out 2-3 a day once you get in the groove. Obviously more labor intensive than a POB model but for those who wish to make a POF model Chuck's methods are about as foolproof as it gets. Getting a perfect line of sweep and port sills has always proved difficult for me but Chuck seems to have solved this problem.

 

For the inside of the frames some may wish to invest in an oscillating spindle sander. It makes quick work of these difficult curves.

[Seventynet]

Beautiful work Chuck. So innovative. I’ve started mine but not enough work to report yet. 
Ian

[CaptnBirdseye]

Beautiful design, Chuck, absolutely love the lines and build so far. Do you mind me asking: how skilled do you need to be to attempt a build like this?

[Chuck]

3 hours ago, CaptnBirdseye said:

how skilled do you need to be to attempt a build like this?

Thank You guys.  I am not sure really.   I dont find it any more difficult than building the Winnie.   There are just more parts to put together.   Once the parts are laser cut for you its really just an assembly job.  Lots of laser char to remove....lots of frame parts.   It just takes a longer time.  You must really work hard at keeping everything aligned.   Even with the jig pieces you still have to be vigilant about using that string to center your frames and your squares to raise them vertical.  Fairing the hull is more time consuming as well.   More time but not at all more difficult in my opinion.

 

There are builders out there that always seem to to rush through things....not remove laser char etc.   They will run into problems. If you have patience and can work slowly with care, it is not very hard at all.   Like Greg said, even with the laser cut parts, maybe you can complete two or three frames a day.  Its not hard but it does take a tad bit longer than assembling bulkheads.   

 

The Winnie was an exercise in planking....This will be an exercise in framing but you will save so much time later with Speedwell because you will only be planking from the wales up!!!  Its a trade off.

[Goodshipvenus]

Will Speedwell include any of the internal structures such as cabins, etc?

[dvm27]

4 hours ago, CaptnBirdseye said:

Beautiful design, Chuck, absolutely love the lines and build so far. Do you mind me asking: how skilled do you need to be to attempt a build like this?

In my opinion Winchelsea is all about the planking while Speedwell is all about the framing. I think Chuck has developed a system which practically guarantees a beautiful hull form and in this respect may be easier than Winchelsea.

[bdgiantman2]

On 1/3/2023 at 4:35 PM, Chuck said:

even at 3/8” scale these are so much smaller than on Winnie. 

My thought is that even though this model of the Speedwell is being built at a larger scale than Winnie, because the Winnie was nearly twice the size of Speedwell in real life (as well as quarter scale if the two models were to be side by side), I could understand Winnie's figurehead being bigger anyways. Bigger ship will have a bigger figurehead. Those pieces you have made look spectacular just to let you know.

Edited March 13, 2023 by bdgiantman2

[Trussben]

Excellent Progress Chuck, the upright framing technique you have developed for Speedwell is really superb - I look forward to see how you do the cant frames and the Bollard Timbers!

 

[Chuck]

Philip Reed's Speedwell

 

 

[scrubbyj427]

Philips models are just incredible. I would go insane trying to build something that small, I can barely handle 1/72 scale!

[Saburo]

On 11/21/2022 at 6:51 PM, Chuck said:

Continuing with the stem/keel assembly....

 

The remaining sections of keel were added working my way aft.  The keel is actually two layers.  I added one layer at a time.  Each segment is numbered.   The numbers face inward so when the two layers are glued up you cant see them.

 

Here is the entire keel all put together.   Each segment remember is in two layers and I added them one layer at a time trying to get real nice and tight scarphs.   Its not difficult when done in layers.

 

I also added the false keel.  This is the thin strip on the bottom.  This was done with 1/8" wide strips the same depth as the keel.   I simulated the seams with a pencil.  There is still no finish on these parts so it will really look great once I add some wipe on poly.

 

On the aft section you will see a small step where the rabbet strip will end.   You will probably need to adjust where this is.  I made the parts so this was a bit forward of where it should be.  Just lay the keel assembly as it stands on top of the plan and mark the exact location for this slanted step.  Then use a sharp chisel or #11 blade to cut this step in the exact location.

 

Also note that the false keel may seem a bit wide top to bottom.  I have done this intentionally.  It is about 1/32" larger than needed.  I have found that the false keel when made of cedar will take a beating throughout the project.  It will get dented etc.   Even if you tape it to protect it.  So I made it slightly taller so I can sand the bottom of the keel down smooth much later in the project.  Just to smooth out any creases and dents.

The Rabbet...

 

The rabbet is done as I typically do on all of my projects.  I realize the rabbet is a complex organism of sorts.  It should have a "V" shape with and ever changing profile depending on how the hull planking enters it.   I usually make a mess of that if carved with a chisel.  Those of you who have the Speedwell books from Seawatch can see how Greg did this.  He is much more handy with a chisel than I am.

 

So this will be simplified and should you choose to add the garboard hull plank will mostly be covered anyway.   Using a simple strip here is neat and clean.

 

The one thing I have done differently this time is I laser cut the curved sections at the bow in two lengths.   See the photo below.  The two lengths are already glued on the stem assembly but I also show some extras on the table for clarity.   They are 1/16" thick.  The longer segment goes on first and is centered port to starboard.   This will leave a nice lip on both sides.  Then the shorter laser cut rabbet strip is added.   No need to sand the laser char off these.

 

The remaining rabbet strip that works itself aft is just made using a 7/32" x 1/16" cedar strip.  It ends at that slanted step you so carefully chiseled just a moment ago.

 

The Upper and Lower Aprons...

 

Now these pieces you have no doubt seen being made on many POF model.   The upper apron is nothing special.   Its a plain segment that is 3/8" thick.   Simple enough.  The LOWER apron is a different story all together.  It is much more complex.  You have probably seen folks hand chiseling tiny steps into both sides of the lower apron...once again take a look at Volume one of the Speedwell books.

 

I wanted to simplify this however.  Not because it could be difficult to do but because I know that most folks dont have vertical mill, or disc sanders or all the gadgets you often see when folks make the lower apron.

 

I have decided to make the lower apron using many separate parts instead.   Looking ahead to adding the forward cant frames, each set of cant frames has a different angle sanded into the heel of it.   This is so it can be "canted" forward.   This is simply not going to work to easily if you dont have a disc sander.  So I created small wedges with the angles already pre-set on them to accept straight right angled heels on the cant frames.

 

I hope that makes sense.

 

See below.  The upper apron is in front...easy peasy.  Set that one aside for now.  The lower apron is laser cut with a series of steps.  On these steps we will glue the pre-angled wedges.  But using this approach leaves the bottom of the lower apron very thin even at this scale.  It can easily break or get misshapen.  So I have laser cut the "stepped" lower apron attached to a sacrificial piece of wood.   You can use it as a handle.  DO NOT remove the lower apron from this "handle" until all of the little angled wedges are glued to it.  Those will give it enough strength...a remarkable amount of strength actually.  In the photo below I have already added two of the laser cut wedges which show the angles for the cant frames.  Check your plans as these are prominently shown.  Work from the aft side forward.

 

Each angled wedge is made on two layers.   They have laser etched numbers on them and correspond to the plan.  Gle the two layers together with the numbers facing each other.  This is important.   Glue the two halves together "number facing number".   The next to be done for me are the parts marked "7 & 6" in that photo.   I will glue them together now.

Once glued together with the numbers facing each other,  you could make life easier for yourself later by cutting them down a bit.  Once the two pieces are glued together they are too tall.  This doesnt matter at all but if you trim them to match the plans it will be so much easier to fair the inside of the hull when the time comes.   The Keelson will fit so much nicer on top of this when the time comes.  Below you can see me doing just that.  With a sharp blade I am trimming the top to match the plans.   Make sure you have the piece facing the correct way.  Place it on the plan and draw a line where the top portion can be shaved away.  Do this for every piece...I know its a pain.  But you will thank me when it comes time to add the cant frames later. 

When all of the segments are glued onto each step of the lower apron base,  you can finally cut away the bottom handle.  It was held on by just a few connectors which are easily cut with a sharp blade.  Hopefully you glued those wedges onto each step securely and didnt skimp on the glue.  Glue each onto its step and also to the wedge proceeding it.  Nice and secure.  Center them down the top of each step.   Dont mix up the numbers either.  That would be bad because the angles match each individual cant frame.  I also sanded the top of all those wedges so it looks nice and neat.  It also matched the shape for the lower apron shown on the plans.

 

Note that you should not remove any of the laser char on the angled sides of these wedges.  Not only would that screw up the angles laser cut into each of them, but it would also reduce their size.   That should be avoided.

 

A dry test fit of the upper and lower aprons on the keel assembly below.  trying my best to match the curve.   Use the plan to find the exact location for the aft edge of the lower apron along the keel.  You dont want it too forward or even too aft.   Place the keel assembly on the plan and mark where the exact locations are for the upper and lower aprons.  Note how the upper apron extends above the rabbet strip.

 

Note how the aprons are wider than the keel.   The aprons should be centered on the rabbet strip leaving a nice over hang on both sides.

 

 

Still no finish applied to these parts yet.  I will do that once the entire keel/stem assembly is completed.  Thats it for today!!!

 

 

Any questions?

 

 

Way cool.