Jack12477 Posted January 15, 2023 Share #31 Posted January 15, 2023 (edited) 16 hours ago, king derelict said: The railroad and scenery guys like @Jack12477 and @Canute may know if you can still get the stuff or have a better idea Yes, you can use Hydrocal to create the mounds. When you get closer to that we can help walk you thru it. There's a couple ways to do it, Paper towels, nylon window screen, plaster cloth, etc. ScaleHobbyist is my go-to supplier. Before you get too far along, make a tracing of that hill outline shown on that wall former M15. Save it for later. You might also want to start looking at Woodland Scenics rock molds for cliff faces, et al. Looking at the box art I would suggest using them for some of the rock outcroppings. They work well with the Hydrocal. Also check out @hollowneck HMS Sphinx build log, starting at post #400, on his use of Woodland Scenics' ShaperSheet to create an ocean. That same technique and material can be used to create scenery around your castle. Edited January 15, 2023 by Jack12477 Egilman, Canute, FriedClams and 5 others 8 Quote Jack "No one is as smart as all of us" - Is ón cheann a thagann an cheird The craft comes from the head --------------------------------------------- Current build: US Constellation Non-ship builds: USCG UH-65A Dolphin M16 Multi-gun motor carriage diorama M4A3 Sherman Tanks dioramas 1936-1939 Mercedes Benz 540K 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II JSDF Light Armor Vehicle Figures: The Last Bridge: Raider Reaper Edge of Universe: Ianis The Last Bridge: Vadim with cart Completed build log(s): 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne, Willie L Bennett 1888 50 ft Gaff-rigged Ice Yacht Scratch Build The Sullivans (DD 537) Liberty Ship SS John W Brown USS England (DE 635), Artesania Latina Titanic Lifeboat Gallery: Swift , Armed Virginia Sloop, Santisima Trinidad Captain's Launch , 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne Other: Rhinebeck Aerodrome Tour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Egilman Posted January 15, 2023 Share #32 Posted January 15, 2023 7 hours ago, king derelict said: I'm thinking that plaster bandage over foam may be a good way to set the basic shapes of the hills and cliffs. The railroad and scenery guys like @Jack12477 and @Canute may know if you can still get the stuff or have a better idea Oh yeah it's available, model railroaders go to when all else fails... Hundreds of places to get it and hundreds of ways to build hills and mountains with it... I still have several rolls in my railroading stash along with the rockface molds and woodland scenic's vegetation and ground covers... I agree with jack on tracing the outline of where the slopes should be both horizontally and vertically the reason for this is you want to build it apart from the castle itself... Build it in sections and add them to the model as you go... Makes it a lot more manageable, and you can refine or adjust the technique as you go... Made many mountains in my day, it's a fun type of modeling.... mtaylor, hollowneck, Edwardkenway and 3 others 6 Quote Current Build: F-86F-30 Sabre by Egilman - Kinetic - 1/32nd scale In the Garage: East Bound & Down, Building a Smokey & the Bandit Kenworth Rig in 1/25th scale Completed: M8A1 HST 1930 Packard Boattail Speedster M1A1 75mm Pack Howitzer F-4J Phantom II Bell H-13's P-51B/C Temporary Suspension: USS Gwin DD-433 F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" 1/32nd Scale Terminated Build: F-104C Starfighter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: "Relish Today, Ketchup Tomorrow" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJohnson Posted January 15, 2023 Share #33 Posted January 15, 2023 12 hours ago, king derelict said: The blocks are somewhat irregular and the guide recommends squaring up each block. Given that there are 8600 blocks and I have a limited ability to true up anything I use them as is. I find that selecting adjacent blocks and rotating them to get the best fit gives a good result generally. Hi Alan that process sounds like the age old skills used in “Dry-stone” walling that the Yorkshire Dales are renowned for. This is a really interesting project, I had no idea that these were out there to build. You will a Master Stone Mason by the time you get to block 8599! 🤣 FriedClams, Edwardkenway, hollowneck and 4 others 7 Quote Andrew Current builds:- HM Cutter Trial - Vanguard models (1/64), HMAV Bounty - Caldercraft (1/64), Hawker-Typhoon-1b-"Car-Door" - Airfix (1/24) Completed (Ship):- "Nisha" - Vanguard Models (1/64), HMS Orestes (Mars) - Caldercraft (1/64), HM Cutter Sherbourne - Caldercraft (1/64), TSS Earnslaw - Paper Shipwright (1/250), Puffer "Starlight" - Paper Shipwright (1/250) Completed (Non-Ship):-Blackburn Buccaneer S.2C - Airfix (1/48), Bristol Beaufort - Airfix (1/72), Mosquito B.XVI - Airfix (1/72), , Sea-Harrier-FRS1 - Airfix (1/72), Grumman F6F-5 Hellcat - Airfix (1/24), De Havilland Chipmunk T.10 - Airfix (1/48), Flamborough Head Lighthouse - Paper Shipwright (1/250) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack12477 Posted January 15, 2023 Share #34 Posted January 15, 2023 22 minutes ago, AJohnson said: I have a limited ability to true up anything Build yourself a mini shooting board. Lowes has dimensioned poplar boards 1/4 x 3 or 1/4 x 4 or 1/4 x 5 in 2 ft and 3 ft lengths, cut one to 6-8 inches length for the base; pick up some 1/4 inch square and/or 3/8 inch square "dowels" to use as stops and guides. It doesn't have to be very big, just enough to square your blocks with a file or sanding sticks. hollowneck, Edwardkenway, AJohnson and 5 others 8 Quote Jack "No one is as smart as all of us" - Is ón cheann a thagann an cheird The craft comes from the head --------------------------------------------- Current build: US Constellation Non-ship builds: USCG UH-65A Dolphin M16 Multi-gun motor carriage diorama M4A3 Sherman Tanks dioramas 1936-1939 Mercedes Benz 540K 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II JSDF Light Armor Vehicle Figures: The Last Bridge: Raider Reaper Edge of Universe: Ianis The Last Bridge: Vadim with cart Completed build log(s): 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne, Willie L Bennett 1888 50 ft Gaff-rigged Ice Yacht Scratch Build The Sullivans (DD 537) Liberty Ship SS John W Brown USS England (DE 635), Artesania Latina Titanic Lifeboat Gallery: Swift , Armed Virginia Sloop, Santisima Trinidad Captain's Launch , 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne Other: Rhinebeck Aerodrome Tour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waitoa Posted January 15, 2023 Share #35 Posted January 15, 2023 Hope there is room for one more watcher, my village has been on hold while I do jobs for the Admiral but hopefully those are coming an end. Waitoa Canute, Edwardkenway, Jack12477 and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canute Posted January 15, 2023 Share #36 Posted January 15, 2023 You can use thin foam pieces, not the strofowm boards with the big white beads, but the sheets used for insulation in some places. Your local big box store may have pieces of broken boards. Rough shape one/two sids and but up against your base in layers, like a cake. Cover with plaster gauze or Sculptamold to cover the ends, Sand to final shape, the paint your ground cover shade. Apply your shrubs and trees. Et voils! Castle Loarre and hilltop site. 😄 mtaylor, Old Collingwood, Edwardkenway and 5 others 8 Quote Ken Started: MS Bounty Longboat, On Hold: Heinkel USS Choctaw paper Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1 Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section Member Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 18, 2023 Author Share #37 Posted January 18, 2023 On 1/14/2023 at 8:14 PM, Jack12477 said: Yes, you can use Hydrocal to create the mounds. When you get closer to that we can help walk you thru it. There's a couple ways to do it, Paper towels, nylon window screen, plaster cloth, etc. ScaleHobbyist is my go-to supplier. Before you get too far along, make a tracing of that hill outline shown on that wall former M15. Save it for later. You might also want to start looking at Woodland Scenics rock molds for cliff faces, et al. Looking at the box art I would suggest using them for some of the rock outcroppings. They work well with the Hydrocal. Also check out @hollowneck HMS Sphinx build log, starting at post #400, on his use of Woodland Scenics' ShaperSheet to create an ocean. That same technique and material can be used to create scenery around your castle. Thank you very much Jack. That is really very helpful. The landscaping is going to be an entirely new project once the walls are built. The kit instructions or guide are very basic but that sort of adds to the interest. I'm glad I mounted the kit onto thick plywood. Its going to be very heavy when complete. Alan Old Collingwood, Egilman, Edwardkenway and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 18, 2023 Author Share #38 Posted January 18, 2023 On 1/15/2023 at 3:49 AM, Egilman said: Oh yeah it's available, model railroaders go to when all else fails... Hundreds of places to get it and hundreds of ways to build hills and mountains with it... I still have several rolls in my railroading stash along with the rockface molds and woodland scenic's vegetation and ground covers... I agree with jack on tracing the outline of where the slopes should be both horizontally and vertically the reason for this is you want to build it apart from the castle itself... Build it in sections and add them to the model as you go... Makes it a lot more manageable, and you can refine or adjust the technique as you go... Made many mountains in my day, it's a fun type of modeling.... Thank you very much EG. Thats ll good stuff. I hadn't thought of building up the landscape off the base but that may be the best idea. Its all going to get quite crowded between the inner and outer walls and trying to build the hill up between them may be difficult. I think I may need to build at least the basic shape before placing the higher buildings which get built off the base also. Its going to get interesting when I get to that point. It is also probably going to be the most fun bit of the project. Alan mtaylor, Egilman, Old Collingwood and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 18, 2023 Author Share #39 Posted January 18, 2023 On 1/15/2023 at 8:14 AM, AJohnson said: Hi Alan that process sounds like the age old skills used in “Dry-stone” walling that the Yorkshire Dales are renowned for. This is a really interesting project, I had no idea that these were out there to build. You will a Master Stone Mason by the time you get to block 8599! 🤣 The Aedes Ars kits are a whole different aspect of the hobby. The catalogue has some fascinating things to build. There are far more complex things than Castillo Loarre too Construction kit for the reproduction of the Almansa Castle (aedesars.com) I love the limestone landscapes of the Yorkshire Dales. I did a lot of caving up there years go and hiked up the hillsides along and over the drystone walls. My favourite part of the country in many ways. The village pubs after a long caving trip were another great attraction. Especially in winter. Alan Jack12477, mtaylor, Edwardkenway and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 18, 2023 Author Share #40 Posted January 18, 2023 On 1/15/2023 at 8:51 AM, Jack12477 said: Build yourself a mini shooting board. Lowes has dimensioned poplar boards 1/4 x 3 or 1/4 x 4 or 1/4 x 5 in 2 ft and 3 ft lengths, cut one to 6-8 inches length for the base; pick up some 1/4 inch square and/or 3/8 inch square "dowels" to use as stops and guides. It doesn't have to be very big, just enough to square your blocks with a file or sanding sticks. ack That is a great idea. Thank you very much. Your comment jogged my memory. I bought this from Micro=Mark (I think) for wooden boat building) and never used it It works quite well, especially for squaring the ends. The blocks are so small that after doing a number of them I end up with sore fingers from holding them against the fence. Its worth doing; it really speeds up the construction of the walls because there is no need to custom fit each block and the gaps are tighter too. I may do better trying to make a custom board though that would make the blocks easier to hold while sanding Thanks again - that's a big help Alan Jack12477, Old Collingwood, Edwardkenway and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 18, 2023 Author Share #41 Posted January 18, 2023 On 1/15/2023 at 10:51 AM, Waitoa said: Hope there is room for one more watcher, my village has been on hold while I do jobs for the Admiral but hopefully those are coming an end. Waitoa Hi Waitoa. There is definitely room; you are most welcome, Your village is a wonderful creation so I hope I don't embarrass myself in front of you Alan mtaylor, Egilman, Edwardkenway and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 18, 2023 Author Share #42 Posted January 18, 2023 On 1/15/2023 at 12:18 PM, Canute said: You can use thin foam pieces, not the strofowm boards with the big white beads, but the sheets used for insulation in some places. Your local big box store may have pieces of broken boards. Rough shape one/two sids and but up against your base in layers, like a cake. Cover with plaster gauze or Sculptamold to cover the ends, Sand to final shape, the paint your ground cover shade. Apply your shrubs and trees. Et voils! Castle Loarre and hilltop site. 😄 Thank you very much Ken I have some squares of the closed cell insulation board material which I have used for seascape bases. That may be a very good way to build up the basic shapes and contours of the hill. The kit would have you make several pillars out of card for the upper parts of the castle to rest on. Its going to be heavy so I am not so convinced that is a good idea so I'm thinking I might use layers of the foam boards depending on how the heights work out. That would also allow me to carve the landscape right to the walls. Thats going to be a very interesting part of the build - many blocks away. Alan mtaylor, Old Collingwood, Egilman and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 18, 2023 Author Share #43 Posted January 18, 2023 A long old day of real life at the eye clinic yesterday so no progress until today. I managed to spend some time on the Castillo today and finished one side of the first bit of the outer walls. I'm trying not to look at the higher right hand section yet. Thanks to @Jack12477 the construction went a lot faster along the straight sections. The curved towers are still a slow file and fit work Thanks for looking in and all the support and comments Alan FriedClams, Prowler901, yvesvidal and 8 others 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted January 18, 2023 Share #44 Posted January 18, 2023 Thats a good start Alan - those blocks make all the difference creating a genine look, so loving this build. OC. Edwardkenway, FriedClams, Canute and 4 others 7 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack12477 Posted January 18, 2023 Share #45 Posted January 18, 2023 24 minutes ago, king derelict said: The blocks are so small that after doing a number of them I end up with sore fingers from holding them against the fence. Its worth doing; it really speeds up the construction of the walls because there is no need to custom fit each block and the gaps are tighter too. I may do better trying to make a custom board though that would make the blocks easier to hold while sanding Make some featherboards. You could probably fashion them from popsicle sticks or 1/4 inch sq dowels cut with 45 degree at one end. See examples of my crude boards for my Dremel drill press stand in photos below. mtaylor, Prowler901, robert952 and 6 others 9 Quote Jack "No one is as smart as all of us" - Is ón cheann a thagann an cheird The craft comes from the head --------------------------------------------- Current build: US Constellation Non-ship builds: USCG UH-65A Dolphin M16 Multi-gun motor carriage diorama M4A3 Sherman Tanks dioramas 1936-1939 Mercedes Benz 540K 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II JSDF Light Armor Vehicle Figures: The Last Bridge: Raider Reaper Edge of Universe: Ianis The Last Bridge: Vadim with cart Completed build log(s): 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne, Willie L Bennett 1888 50 ft Gaff-rigged Ice Yacht Scratch Build The Sullivans (DD 537) Liberty Ship SS John W Brown USS England (DE 635), Artesania Latina Titanic Lifeboat Gallery: Swift , Armed Virginia Sloop, Santisima Trinidad Captain's Launch , 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne Other: Rhinebeck Aerodrome Tour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CDW Posted January 18, 2023 Share #46 Posted January 18, 2023 Ooohhhh...this looks like fun! Happy to follow you with this build. Old Collingwood, Edwardkenway, Egilman and 5 others 8 Quote Completed Projects: USS Fletcher 1:144 Scharnhorst 1:350 USS Independence LCS-2 1:350 1:32 J7W1 Shinden Interceptor/Fighter Fairey Swordfish Mk. II 1:48 Harbor Tug Box Scale Albatros D.V 1:32 Ala-Kart 1:25 Ferrari 250 GT California Spyder 1:24 S-100 Schnellboot 1:72 Mercury Capsule and Atlas Booster BR-52 Steam Locomotive 1:35 Triumph 3 HW Motorcycle 1:9 Scale F-16XL-2 Experimental Fighter Bomber 1:48 Rafale 1:48 F-15E Strike Eagle 1:48 Petlyakov PE-2 Soviet Dive Bomber 1:48 TBM3 Avenger 1:32 1931 Cadillac 1:25 Scammell Pioneer SV2S Heavy Breakdown Tractor 1:35 M-50 Israeli Sherman 1:35 Military Wrecker 1:32 Delahaye 135 1:24 Toyota Sard Supra GT 1:24 Enzo Ferrari 1:24 1970 Baldwin Motion Camaro 1:25 1966 Ford Galaxie 500 Stock Car 1:25 American LaFrance Eagle Fire Pumper 1:25 1940 Ford Standard Coupe 1:25 VolksWagen Dragster/Dune Buggy/Street Rod 1:25 Kawasaki Ninja H2 Carbon 1:12 Porsche GT-1 Evo 1:24 Scharnhorst 1940 1:700 IJN Akitsushima Seaplane Tender 1:700 HMS Hood 1941 1:700 Prinz Eugen 1942 1:700 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waitoa Posted January 18, 2023 Share #47 Posted January 18, 2023 18 hours ago, king derelict said: Hi Waitoa. There is definitely room; you are most welcome, Your village is a wonderful creation so I hope I don't embarrass myself in front of you Alan No way you could do that, as long as you are enjoying it and building it the way you see it in your eye’s mind that I think is all that matters Egilman, Old Collingwood, FriedClams and 7 others 9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 19, 2023 Author Share #48 Posted January 19, 2023 23 hours ago, Old Collingwood said: Thats a good start Alan - those blocks make all the difference creating a genine look, so loving this build. OC. Thank you OC. The look of stone really does make the model. I'm thinking about giving it a thin grey wash when its complete> I think the warm tone is a bit too Mediterranean. Lots of ideas for later on😎 Canute, Egilman, Old Collingwood and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 19, 2023 Author Share #49 Posted January 19, 2023 23 hours ago, Jack12477 said: Make some featherboards. Jack, that is a great idea (again). I ended up gluing a couple of strips of ply together to make a combined holder / pusher for the blocks seen just below the fence. The ergonomically shaped section further back means I can square several blocks without developing a groove in my thumb. Many Thanks = that really helps me move the model forward Alan Canute, FriedClams, Edwardkenway and 8 others 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 19, 2023 Author Share #50 Posted January 19, 2023 With the board to square and shape the blocks I'm picking up some efficiency (Thanks Jack) and moving foreard. In the short time available today I reached the top of the wall in the next section and nearly finished the first round tower. So as i work along the walls I'm starting to think about adding lights to the model. The outer wall has no windows so it isn't too late to decide/ There will be plenty of room below the main castle to install wires and the hill at the rear could accommodate a battery box. I have never lit a model so this would all be new to me. The dust is starting to accumulate. I find the soft brush indispensable for sweeping off the tiers of blocks after they have been sanded to remove steps. The stiff brush is used to clean the sandpaper and files which clog very quickly. Many Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments Alan realworkingsailor, Edwardkenway, yvesvidal and 8 others 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 19, 2023 Author Share #51 Posted January 19, 2023 21 hours ago, CDW said: Ooohhhh...this looks like fun! Happy to follow you with this build. Thanks Craig. Yes it definitely is fun watching it grow. Its something very different from the usual run of models. It is very messy - the dust goes everywhere. No-one will complain about sanding a wooden hull after making one of these. For that reason I'm working in the garage at least until the weather gets hot again Alan Jack12477, AJohnson, Edwardkenway and 4 others 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack12477 Posted January 19, 2023 Share #52 Posted January 19, 2023 25 minutes ago, king derelict said: Thanks Jack Glad I could help. Castle is looking good. mtaylor, AJohnson, Old Collingwood and 4 others 6 1 Quote Jack "No one is as smart as all of us" - Is ón cheann a thagann an cheird The craft comes from the head --------------------------------------------- Current build: US Constellation Non-ship builds: USCG UH-65A Dolphin M16 Multi-gun motor carriage diorama M4A3 Sherman Tanks dioramas 1936-1939 Mercedes Benz 540K 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II JSDF Light Armor Vehicle Figures: The Last Bridge: Raider Reaper Edge of Universe: Ianis The Last Bridge: Vadim with cart Completed build log(s): 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne, Willie L Bennett 1888 50 ft Gaff-rigged Ice Yacht Scratch Build The Sullivans (DD 537) Liberty Ship SS John W Brown USS England (DE 635), Artesania Latina Titanic Lifeboat Gallery: Swift , Armed Virginia Sloop, Santisima Trinidad Captain's Launch , 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne Other: Rhinebeck Aerodrome Tour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canute Posted January 19, 2023 Share #53 Posted January 19, 2023 Alan, if you light it, use yelo-glo LEDs. They're warmer looking, sort of like the old kerosene lamps. More like fire light. Edwardkenway, mtaylor, Egilman and 6 others 9 Quote Ken Started: MS Bounty Longboat, On Hold: Heinkel USS Choctaw paper Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1 Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section Member Nautical Research Guild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 20, 2023 Author Share #54 Posted January 20, 2023 22 hours ago, Canute said: Alan, if you light it, use yelo-glo LEDs. They're warmer looking, sort of like the old kerosene lamps. More like fire light. Thank you Ken, I've read you can get flickering ones too. I need to sort out the basics of how to wire them up snd them how the main castle will build up to determine how many are needed inside the cardboard formers Alan Edwardkenway, AJohnson, Old Collingwood and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted January 20, 2023 Share #55 Posted January 20, 2023 22 hours ago, Canute said: Alan, if you light it, use yelo-glo LEDs. They're warmer looking, sort of like the old kerosene lamps. More like fire light. At one time, they made LED's that would flicker randomly. I don't know if they still do. Oops... we cross posted. I'm glad they still make those. Old Collingwood, Edwardkenway, Egilman and 1 other 4 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 20, 2023 Author Share #56 Posted January 20, 2023 26 minutes ago, mtaylor said: At one time, they made LED's that would flicker randomly. Thanks Mark I'll explore for information Alan Egilman, Old Collingwood, Edwardkenway and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 20, 2023 Author Share #57 Posted January 20, 2023 Pushing long down the long section of wall. The first round tower is complete and I started sanding down the square tower. The little trays are very handy for keeping the squared blocks of different sizes and the angled blocks. Many thanks to my cats for liking that particular brand of cat treat and keeping me well supplied with the containers I think I will be breaking off at intervals to work on some small projects to recharge the enthusiasm. So following the conversation about Verlinden being no longer in production I thought I needed to get some while I can I am taking the 2023 Moratorium on New Kits more as a suggestion than a hard rule. The 2023 Moratorium on new book only lasted 5 days. Oh well Thanks for all the support, likes and comments Alan Edwardkenway, Baker, Jack12477 and 9 others 11 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted January 20, 2023 Share #58 Posted January 20, 2023 Thats some great progress Alan - taking shape more and more each day, and those Verlinden goodies - will look forward to you building those. OC. Egilman, Canute, Edwardkenway and 3 others 6 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
king derelict Posted January 20, 2023 Author Share #59 Posted January 20, 2023 18 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said: Thats some great progress Alan - taking shape more and more each day, and those Verlinden goodies - will look forward to you building those. OC. Thank you very much OC. I think I need an assistant to square and angle the blocks and then we would really see some progress - but that would feel like cheating. I want to try that glazing technique that @Jack12477 referenced recently on one of the figures . That looked very effective. But first the walls have to rise a little further. I'm conscious EG is out there with his howitzer😎 Alan Egilman, Jack12477, Old Collingwood and 4 others 5 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Collingwood Posted January 20, 2023 Share #60 Posted January 20, 2023 (edited) Found another interesting link for you - think they do tours there? Also found some figures they are 1/150 scale but that is kind of close to 1/200 - OC. https://castletourist.com/castillo-de-loarre/ https://www.pendraken.co.uk/mid-european-557-c.asp Edited January 20, 2023 by Old Collingwood Edwardkenway, Canute, Egilman and 2 others 5 Quote Current builds 28mm Battle of Waterloo attack on La Haye Saint Diorama. 1/700 HMS Hood Flyhawk with PE, Resin and Wood Decking. Completed works. Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic. HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts. HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine plastic. Black Pearl 1/72 Revell with pirate crew. Revell 1/48 Mosquito B IV Eduard 1/48 Spitfire IX ICM 1/48 Seafire Mk.III Special Conversion 1/48 Kinetic Sea Harrier FRS1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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