HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and Twenty-one

Completing the stern decoration

This comprises Acanthus leaf designs and a plaque with the Royal cipher.

3109

Before I fitted the pilasters between the lights, I added the decoration for the cove.

I found it best to do this before fitting the pilasters.

3108

The Pilasters did need a light sanding across the tops to fit the available space.

3111

I decided to add a capping rail to the transom to hide the laminations of the stern.

On 'Indy' I used Boxwood, but thin styrene strips are also suitable.

 

Roof shingles

Chris has provided pre-cut card versions that do very nicely.

3113

The lower two strakes were fitted as strips, the upper one individual tiles trimmed to suit.

 

The remaining stern decoration followed.

3135

1634A

3133

1639A

3121

3116

This Polybak decoration works very well, but great care must be taken particularly with the long delicate string attached to the cipher.

Break this and there may be difficulties in matching the smooth flow of the design.

 

My last post before Christmas, so seasons’ greetings to all my fellow builders, and many thanks for those who have liked and shown interest in my builds over the year.

 

B.E.

 

23/12/2023.

 

 

 

 

[Nipper]

Happy Christmas to you and your family, including the Carpet Monster.  Thank you for your wonderful build log during 2023 and here's looking forward to more in 2024!

Nipper

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and Twenty-two

 

Re-visiting the Poop

The position of the skylight is still something of a puzzlement for me.

3141

The original position as indicated on the Adm plans is over the Coach, the standard position for skylights.

3143

With the shortened Poop deck Chris has re-positioned it over the Great cabin, on the basis that this would be a practical move.

3144

Aesthetically, with the reduced Poop, it looks much better than the usual position over the coach.

The Skylight has been raised by 2mm to compensate for the absence of planking.

3145

The new position does beg the question whether a skylight over the Great Cabin, with its access to extensive light thro’ the stern, is really necessary.

We do know that Pellew didn’t want the round house at all, but the reduced length was as far as the Navy Board would concede.

 

Pure speculation, but it seems to me that Pellew might well have dispensed with a Skylight altogether, on the basis that it wasn’t necessary and presented an additional weakness to the structure.

3146

3150

Even so, it is a nice little feature that adds interest to the Poop deck, along with the Mizen Bitts which still seem to be oddly positioned to my eye.

 

Still ‘Indy’ is a knocked about Sixty-four, so who knows.🤔

 

 

 

B.E.

26/12/2023

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One hundred and Twenty-three

 

Naming the ship.

The kit provides a water-slide decal for the name with a spare just in case you mess it up.

001

An issue for me is that the lettering colour, fine for the kit indicated scheme, is a little bright for my scheme.

I decided to create my own version on word incorporating a curve to match the counter.

I chose Baskerville old face at 36pts which equates with the kit provided version.

3155a

3155b

I created two types as above.

3153

The solid background version was tested for fit on the model.

The background match to the stern paint looks pretty good to my eye.

 

Previously I have used Letraset dry rub transfers, a method I like, but I can’t seem to find the correct size or font in this medium.

Maybe just as well, with a name of thirteen letters, accurate positioning could prove a trial.

 

I have decided to go old school and use the printed version applied over the counter.

I did this for Sphinx, after Chuck’s ‘Winnie’ build, and that turned out well.

3160

The print was sprayed with fixative before cutting out using a template from the plan.

3170

I used spray mount applied to the back of the cut-out to fix into place.

 

3163

I think I could have imparted slightly more curve to the first and last two letters but overall, I like the look.

3168

The important thing is that I have proven the system to myself, and I can re-visit at any time.

 

B.E.

28/12/2023

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Twenty-four

 

Back to the Bow

 … and several things to attend to.

 Areas of paintwork that I needed to tidy up particularly around the mouldings.

 This is a tiresome task with touch-ins on touch ins, ad nauseum.

1684a

The Decoration is added to the Trail boards

 

Fit of the Figure/ Bowsprit.

Left naturally the stive of the Bowsprit was insufficient to clear the top of the figure.

Whether this is specific to my build due to moving the Bowsprit stop aft to its proper position between the foc’sle bitts, I don’t know, but we are where we are.

1667a

1673b

I didn’t wish to change the figure so a little inventive jiggery pokery was required on the Bowsprit.

1654a

The heel of the Bowsprit is visible below the Foc’sle deck, and the aim is to fool the eye of the observer.

1673a

I intend to fit stump masts; for these I use Ramin my favourite dowel type. Light in colour, it provides an excellent match to Boxwood and other light wood types.

 

1685a

My only use for Walnut is for yards where the colouring is black. I’ve probably got several lifetimes worth of walnut dowel in my wood stock.

8778

Not that I have an interest in yards on this build, but the stump masts will be kitted out with those fittings applicable, as shown here on my Sphinx build.

 

B.E.

30/12/2023

 

 

[Thukydides]

She is really coming together now. Great job, it is always a pleasure to follow along with your builds and listen to your thought process.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Twenty-five

 

Looking at Chesstrees and Fenders.

The kit provides a basic shape for the fenders and Chesstrees but they both stand a degree of enhancement to achieve a more authentic look.

 

They are made of uniform 1.5mm laser cut pear which is about right for the bottom end at the wale but ideally should be slightly broader at the top, around 2.5mm.

Using dimensions from the Adm. plan I cut replacements out of some Boxwood scrap.

 

1687a

The sheaves were marked and drilled out on the little miller, and the shape cut out on the scroll saw.

1688a

1689a

At this stage the same pattern as the kit items but with a taper applied.

1699a

Together with a taper, a more elegant serpentine shape is better representative of how these things should look.

1694a

1695a

Testing for fit.

Altho’ I have used Boxwood to match my hull timbers, the kit parts could be laminated to allow for a taper, and a little more shaping to be applied.

 

The same approach was taken with the fenders.

 

Even on completion I thought that the depth of the fenders looked too much, almost out of scale for the hull.

I looked at many photos of fenders and chesstrees on models contemporary, and modern, and they all seemed finer than the

kit offering.

1707a

I didn’t have any exact dimensions to work from but I fined down the pieces until they satisfied my eye.

1704a

1705a

This is the result.

Getting there but I still think I can go a tad further.

 

The convex shape of the fenders initially looks odd given that on purpose built single deckers they are more concave in shape with a slight serpentine effect, due to the tumblehome.

On ‘Indy’ the tumblehome element of the waist has been cut away leaving just the lower hull round for the fenders to follow.

 

Before completing the fenders I will make the side-steps.

 

B.E.

02/01/2024

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Twenty-six

Side Steps

There are ten of these fiddly little items to assemble for each side.

The step equates to a depth of around 7” and length of 2’ 4” which seems about right.

 

One of the trickiest things with steps is attaching them to the hull with correct spacing and alignment.

1711a

To assist with this a copy is taken from the plan and attached to the hull adjacent to the actual line. This provides a guide for both position and level.

1712a

Pva is used to attach the steps.

1723a

1725a

The fenders and Chesstrees are fixed into position, they took me a fair amount of fettlin’ to get them to sit right against the hull.

1726a

I wonder if it might have been a better option to cut the moulding rather than notch the fenders.

1722a

Once fitted I drilled and ‘bolted’ the items to the hull. These were items subject to wear and tear and needed to be replaced fairly easily.

 

B.E.

04/01/2024

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Twenty-seven

Channels

 The channels each comprise laminations of three parts. The core centre part is rounded on the edges and extends slightly beyond the upper and lower pieces to create a decorative profile.

1748a

In practice the edges of the channels were open to receive the deadeye strops, and a cover strip was nailed over the top, decorative or otherwise.

Quite a straightforward business prepping the channels; largely making sure you have the correct cores and matching outer pieces, carefully applied to each side of the core, and aligned with the slots and holes.

1740a

The Main channels require more bevelling on the aft side to account for the greater tumblehome.

1739a

The Fore channels require bevelling and a little fettlin’ to match the round of the bow and take a little more time to fit.

3192

The Mizen and stools for the main and Mizen backstays require little attention and there are location holes in the hull for accurate fitting.

3194

3189

A well-designed set-up by Chris for what can otherwise be a tricky exercise.

 

1733a

Whilst in the area of the Poop I added a lead sheathing to the Gallery roof, this will tone down to a dull grey over time.

1731a

1744a

1745a

Before I permanently fix the channels I think I will return to the deck and inner bulwark fittings.

At this point the channels will just present another incumbrance to be careful about when working inboard.

 

 

B.E.

07/01/2024

 

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Twenty-eight

 

Shipping the rudder

I thought I would add the rudder now as fitting involves positioning the hull for access.

The rudder has a central Pear core with facings engraved to represent the tablings and other sections that properly make up the rudder of a large ship.

1754a

As I won’t be coppering, all this detail will remain visible.

3198

Before assembly of the rudder it is a good idea to check the fit thro’ the rudder port and against the stern post.

I found I needed to fettle the port a little to get the head of the rudder into position.

 

5434

With regard to rudders I have mostly used the Syren system which produces a moving rudder on individual pintles and gudgeons.

2271(2)

On Sphinx the kit provided ‘faux’ pintles/ gudgeons (above) were a thin brass etch affair which didn’t do it for me, and I used the Syren system.

 

The arrangement on ‘Indy’ is a much-improved resin version of a pintle/gudgeon combo and with laser board straps replacing the brass etch.

1750a

Chris has done a fine job in replicating these items and I am sufficiently impressed to use them on my build.

 

These little widgets slot into the Rudder beautifully, and the corresponding gudgeons match to the slots in the stern post.

1759a

The strap positions are marked on the rudder for the pintles, for accurate fitting.

I think it is also a good move to make the straps out of laser board, saves all that brass blackening and then messing it up during fitting.

1778a

The manual indicates use of brass pins inserted into drilled holes on the straps. I prefer to represent the bolts on the straps using blobs of pva applied with a toothpick.

 

The final addition to the rudder is the Spectacle plate.

1763a

This is chemically blackened brass etch.

1767b

1786a

1765a

The fit of the rudder is excellent, with a good push fit.

With this system there are no worries about getting a close fit to the stern post.

 

Well done Chris.👍

 

 

B.E.

09/01/2024

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Twenty-nine

Gudgeons

With the rudder in place the line of the straps can be marked.

1782A

The straps are easily lined up on the hull to butt against the  Gudgeon centres.

Trickier to fit than the rudder straps and care must be taken to avoid ca spread. The tape helps a little with this.

3216

3217

The Laser Board straps adhere well to the hull.

1787A

A touch-in of black paint on the stern post edges finishes the effect which should be the look of complete iron brackets attached to the hull.

Has the design achieved this; in my view it has.

3221

This is also a convenient time to apply the Horseshoe and Fish plates to the lower hull.

3227

These are brass etch versions, but they are another item suitable for Laser Board production.

3219

3222

A carronade assembly session looms, what joy.🙄

 

 

B.E.

10/01/2024

 

Edited January 14 by Blue Ensign

[Wacom]

Very tidy

[Theodosius]

Great work on the rudder, and, of course: also on the rest of the build 🙂 

[allanyed]

Hi B.E.

The model continues to look great!  I really like that the rudder pintles and gudgeons are to scale unlike most other kit rudder hardware.

Allan

Edited January 12 by allanyed

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Daniel and Allan,

I hope the resin gudgeon/pintle  arrangement developed by Chris for 'Indy' is something he will adopt for his future  kits, and  even as a modification  to the Sphinx set-up.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Mirabell61]

Very good work B.E.

 

a lovely model !

 

Nils

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Thirty

Carronades.

The 42 pounders are nicely made with resin barrels, Pear beds, slides, and etch fittings.

They will be highly visible items on my build, without the distraction of top hamper.

 

I had already made up four carronades for the cabin area, and those seemed to take an age to assemble with the multiple stages.

3230

Assembling the remaining 14 is an endurance exercise but it helps to set up a production platform.

The iron work was chemically blackened, and the barrels treated with dark brown weathering powder after painting.

I replaced the kit breeching ring with Amati 2mm rings and added the Royal Monogram to the barrels.

3236

These are available as laser board items in different sizes from Syren. Always worth having a supply on hand.

3233

The Monograms were applied before priming and painting.

3238

3241

Three days’ work to complete the painting of guns, beds and slides.

 

My mind returned to the possibility of adding winding bars to the elevation screw.

3253

I played around using cut-down 0.6mmø pins for the screw to which tiny eyebolts are added for the winding bars.

3255

3258

I thought about representation of the threads. The smallest threaded bar I can find is M1 which at 1mm ø is too large, but at 1:64 scale such detail would be very fine, and barely seen.

3251

On balance it looks better to my eye with them than without.

 

There still remain the iron work to attach to the bed and slides before I can complete assembly.

 

Onwards,

 

B.E.

 

14/01/2024

 

[chris watton]

I did try to get threaded bars for the carronades in the appropriate diameter. However, the quotes I got were comical.

[Blue Ensign]

I can imagine Chris, and not worth the expense given the scale.

Macros don't reflect what the eye sees at normal viewing, and this is a very minor feature.

 

The winding bars are feasible, but even these are very small, they have to fit between the eyebolts for the port tackle.

 

B.E.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Thirty-one

 

Completing the Carronades.

One of the most tiresome aspects of completing the carronades is assembling the iron straps and breeching rings. 2mm ø Amati rings were used.

3268

3272

These are tiny things attached to the side of the bed and I found it useful to hold the beds in an angled vice to perform the attachment, using ca.

3273

With the Iron work completed, the barrels are glued into place.

I have set the bed to the inboard position as I prefer it to the ‘outboard’ look.

3280

3290

3287

3291

Following a test fit on the deck, the carronades will be squirrelled away as work continues.

3293

Relieved this tiresome aspect is completed, but more tedium beckons with the ironwork for the inner bulwarks.

 

 

B.E.

16/01/2024

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Thirty-two

Inboard fittings

A necessary job before I start is to add the bulwark tackle rings for the guns.

3294

A ‘long pole’ drill is useful for clearing the pin holes.

3296

As with the Main gun-deck I have replaced the kit items with Amati fine eyebolts and 2mm rings to make ringbolts for the breechings.

3297

3298

Look better to my eye than simple eyebolts.

3301

3321

To complete the bulwarks there are belay racks, cavel blocks and cavel cleats to add.

3302

I did wonder about the set of three cavels on the Fo’csle, they do appear on the restored Victory but I could not find examples on Navy Board models of Frigates and other larger ship types.

 

Even so, they do make useful additions for rigging of the model.

Chris has allocated the aftermost cavel (31) for the Fore Topsail tye, the centre (39) for the Fore-yard lift, and Fore-most (87)- Main course Bowline.

3311

The  Foc’sle carronades are fitted with brass nails into the deck which holds them secure whilst allowing them to swivel.

A spare carronade slide is used as a template to mark the nail holes on the deck.

3305

The cowl for the Brodie stove is fitted with a length of copper  rod which secures it in place whilst also allowing rotation. 

My preference with fittings is to avoid glue where possible.

 

3304

3309

The Foc’sle Bitts are completed.

3310

Still a way to go, with lots of fittings left to make.

 

Onwards.

 

B.E.

20/01/2024

 

[Mirabell61]

Very nice job B.E.

I like those cutaways in the decks allowing the sight to the inside

 

Nils

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Thirty-three

 Inboard fittings (Part two)

 

The Belfry.

Another resin depiction in the style of that on Victory, nicely made and detailed.

3322

I decided to lead the roof, which was then patinated for effect.

I applied the same principle to the lead sheathing on the Gallery roofs.

The lead foil is only of 0.1mm thickness.

3334

This is a convenient point to fit the Foc’sle breast rails, a quick and easy operation. 

If you happen to lose one of the rail support pillars (106) a reasonable replacement can be made using a spare cavel block which requires only a little tweaking.

Always the way, a part for which there is no spare, pings off into the ether, but you never lose bits that have spares.

 

A pair of Twelve pounders are provided as bow chasers which complete the ordnance for the Fo’csle deck.

3331

These are of the style developed by Chris with integrated cap squares. They look the part when completed but do require the gun to be installed early in the assembly.

3333

I did remove the engraved monograms and replaced them with the Syren version.

1820a

I’m still of two minds whether I prefer the new system to the separate assembly of carriages, where they can be detailed without the gun being in the way.

 

I did purchase a couple of Blomefield 9’ long 12 pounders from Vanguard, which are old school and have detailed etched cap squares which involve more work.

This kit does not include the Quoin as shown below but they are quite easy to make.

1817a

Blackening and fitting the cap squares, particularly the tiny joint bolts and key bolts are testy, so both systems have their drawbacks. 

Both versions make up into nice guns, I am a confirmed fan of resin barrels now.

12 pounder guns

The Vanguard after-market gun kit is slightly smaller than the ‘Indy’ kit gun in terms of barrel length and diameter.

 

The trucks on the after- market gun are a better fit than those of the Indy kit, due to slightly oversize square axles which require rounding.

The ‘Indy’ gun (on the right) has rectangular axles leaving an awkward gap that is difficult to avoid. I think the axle shape need tweaking to a slightly larger square profile which can be rounded for a better fit.

3338

3340

The Foc’sle is now looking quite furnished, and not far from completion.

 

B.E.

 

23/01/2024

 

 

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Great work.

[AJohnson]

Great work B.E. I like the Belfry, how did you patinate the lead?

[Blue Ensign]

 

Cheers, Glenn and Andrew;

 

@ Andrew -  I used some stuff called Pewter patination fluid, I've had it a long time, but It is still available on the web.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Thirty-four 

 

Inboard fittings (Part three)

Moving back to the Qtr deck. 

I start the procedure by fitting the after-most carronades.

3376

3377

As with the Foc’sle they are pinned thro’ deck.

Slightly more difficult to drill the location holes because of the bulwark tumblehome.

 

I then moved onto the gangboards for the Poop deck access.

These are completed parts, but I had to over-plank them to match the boxwood decking.

Tricky little beggars to fit; the two supporting brackets must be positioned carefully to meet the bulwark whilst avoiding the iron work for the carronades.

3384

The Gangway camber is also critical, I had them on and off several times before I was happy.

I opted to fit the support brackets with the Gangway in place.

3385

It dawned on me during fiddling with these that I had forgotten to consider the position of the Poop deck ladders when cutting away the Qtr deck earlier in the build.🙄

Fortunately for me my fear was short lived as can be seen in the photos.

3387

Shot garlands are not usually seen on Navy Board style models, but they are present on the contemporary Amazon model which has the guns in place.

Incidentally Amazon was part of Pellew’s squadron for some notable engagements.

3379

The Qtr deck bitts are fitted along with the Top-rope scuttles.

I have replaced the kit provided gratings with solid boards.

 

3396

3398

3394

3395

Moving onto the remaining fittings.

 

 

B.E.

25/01/2024

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Thirty-five

 

Inboard fittings (Part four)

The kit provides two sizes of shot 2mm and 2.5mm ø in shiny black acrylic.

The 2.5mm relates to the 24pounder longs and 42pounder carronades.

The 2mm relates to the 12pounder longs.

 

I didn’t really like the look of the acrylic balls, too black and shiny for my taste.

I replaced them with blackened carbon steel balls of the same diameter.

These were given an acid bath, followed by immersion in Aluminium blackening fluid (I didn’t have any for steel) but it seemed to work.

3400

The more muted colour of the blackened balls tones better with my build.

3415

The simplicity of these assemblies belies the time taken to complete and fit them.

 

The Binnacle

The design follows that as may be seen on Victory or Trincomalee.

Laser cut from Pear; this little assembly is a delight. The mortises and tenons of the parts slot together beautifully.

The unit is complete with brass compass rose and a brass chimney for the lamp or candle.

 

Even so, I couldn’t resist making a couple of tweaks to the design.

3450

3451

3454

Glazing was added using a strip of thin acetate sheet, and the central section on the aft facing side was blanked out.

 

Steering wheel.

I liked the wheel provided on Sphinx and this one is of the same ilk only larger and double.

3429

A fully detailed brass etched wonder that gave me little incentive to consider a wooden replacement.

 

The kit colour scheme of Red painted wheels with white spokes appears regularly on contemporary models.

Deviations include All red, Black with white spokes, and all white schemes.

The latter my be a reflection that Ivory was popular for the creation of ships wheels during the 18^th century.

 

I have decided to go with the ‘Red’ scheme with spokes ivory coloured.

3457

The brass etched wheels were assembled and primed with VMS  Metal Prep 4K before painting.

3440

3441

Still pondering whether to add the tiller lines.

 

In practice the centre of the tiller line was nailed to the centre of the barrel with 7 to 9 turns.

Forward end to Starboard and aft end to Port.

By reference to Steel the tiller line for a 64 is of 4” circ which scales close enough to 0.5mm ø line.

3442

3462

3461

Ladderways up next.

 

B.E.

28/01/2024

[allanyed]

BE  Your build log and model are top of the line and great advertising for Vanguard kits.  Hope you are getting a commission! 😀

Allan

[Mirabell61]

great work B.E.

my recommendation : add the tiller-lines with appropriate blocks, of course its up to you....

 

Nils