HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you, Allan and Nils,

 

@Allan – there is a lot to praise about Vanguard kits but I also comment where I think things could be modified or improved.

All kits have limitations, but Chris has certainly raised the bar of kit quality and there is a decreasing need for bashing to enhance simplifications. (not to say that I don't enjoy a spot of 'modification'.

 

@Nils - I have already started to add the tiller lines, there will not be any visible blocks, but the sliding feet will be included.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Thirty-Six

 

Inboard fittings (Part five.)

Work continues on the Quarterdeck.

3472

Tiller ropes have been added to the ships wheel together with a representation of the sliding feet.

 

The quarterdeck ladderway and associated items are the last centre line fitting to attend to.

3465

Not one of my favourite jobs assembling these delicate parts, but they are nice examples once the job is successfully achieved.

3467

3469

I have taken the opportunity to fine down the tops of the Head ledges where they meet the coamings of the after hatchways, something that has been annoying me for a while.

 

The model has adopted hinged covers to the ladderway, a direct take from the NMM Amazon model.

 

As far as I know the Amazon is the only contemporary model to show this feature, but without this facility working the Upper Capstan would prove very difficult. Otherwise, I suppose temporary Boards could be fitted when the Capstan was in use.

 

The kit offering is a laser engraved Pear item with brass etched hinges.

3470

One of my pet dislikes in ship modelling is bent over eyebolts to represent ring handles. I replaced these with ring bolts.

Another small addition to the covers is a rebate added to one cover for the other to sit on when closed.

 

You will note that the Amazon model has iron stanchions around the ladderway.

The kit doesn’t indicate use of these which is a little odd as all the other ladderways on the gundeck have them.

I added stanchions using the same method as for the Gun-deck.

3477

They are made from ball headed steel pins of 0.9mm ø with a 1.3mm finial. For the eyes to carry the rail bars 0.3mm eyelets, (Caldercraft) are used.

The eyes are silver soldered to the posts using two melt points.

3479

0.5mm ø brass rod is used for the rails.

3488

3492

3495

The covers slot into the ladderway framing but are seemingly unsupported. Were I rigging the model I would add an eyebolt to the headledges to lash the covers  in the vertical position.

3500

3502

The next part should see completion of the Quarterdeck fittings.

 

B.E.

30/01/2024

 

Edited January 30 by Blue Ensign

[TBlack]

Amazing detail elegantly executed. Why is it that British model makers seem to have a common skill at detail? Reminds me of Nevil Shute's novel The Trustee From the Toolroom.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Tom, kind words indeed, but I don’t think me in particular, or us Brits in general have a monopoly on detailing, not  given the wonderful work on MSW from members worldwide, including many from our former colony in the Americas.😉

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Thirty-Seven

 

Qtr deck Fittings. (Part six.)

 

All that remains to do is the QD rail, and ladders to the Upper deck.

 The carronades can then be put into place.

 

Quarterdeck Breast rail.

3503

This classically shaped rail for ships of this era is fairly straightforward to fit until the top slotted rail is fitted over the stanchions.

3509

This is a 0.6mm delicate rail thro’ which the Hammock cranes are fitted into the base.

 

I found careful and gentle fettling of both rail and Crane was necessary to ensure that the cranes fitted thro’ without stress and risk of breaking the rail.

I took the precaution of drilling out the fitting holes for an easier fit. The cranes should fit flush with the top.

3507

3515

The Cranes were used to align the capping rail but will be  fitted later. They are notorious snag magnets.

3516

3519

3521

3522

3523

Movin’ aft to the Poop.

 

B.E.

31/01/2024

 

[rlwhitt]

Hi BE, impressive work all around!   I like what you did with the cannon shot, they look quite realistic.  Can you tell us the source you used for those balls?  I've been looking for something better than the plastic ones too.  One option I've found is lead shot from a shotgun shell.  They look right, but they are not very consistent size - you have to pick through a whole bunch to get a set the same size.

[chris watton]

14 minutes ago, rlwhitt said:

Hi BE, impressive work all around!   I like what you did with the cannon shot, they look quite realistic.  Can you tell us the source you used for those balls?  I've been looking for something better than the plastic ones too.  One option I've found is lead shot from a shotgun shell.  They look right, but they are not very consistent size - you have to pick through a whole bunch to get a set the same size.

Cannon balls are included in the kit

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you rlwhitt,

In the UK I obtained the ball bearings from a company called Simply Bearings. as per link below.

 

2.5mm Diameter Grade 1000 Hardened 1010 Carbon Steel Ball Bearings Simply Bearings Ltd

 

They are certainly consistent and available in various sizes. I'm sure you must have similar suppliers in the USA.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[chris watton]

8 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Thank you rlwhitt,

In the UK I obtained the ball bearings from a company called Simply Bearings. as per link below.

 

2.5mm Diameter Grade 1000 Hardened 1010 Carbon Steel Ball Bearings Simply Bearings Ltd

 

They are certainly consistent and available in various sizes. I'm sure you must have similar suppliers in the USA.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

They are certainly much cheaper than the black acetate balls I supply with the kit.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Thirty-eight

Poop Deck

I had assembled the Mizen Bitts and Skylight earlier in the build, and they are now added, along with the Poop breast rail.

3531

3535

3539

Note:

Before you fit the Mizen Bitts check the plans; don’t go by the Manual photos, they will lead you astray.

 

Flag Lockers

These have a nicely crafted core of brass etch sections that slot together seamlessly. An outer skin of laser cut Pear complete the units.

3540

I wasn’t overkeen on the engraved boarding on the top so I added a lead sheathing for ‘weather protection’.

3537

At this point the lead hasn’t been weathered, as I did with the Gallery roof.

3538

Not much more to do on the Poop, but I did think about the fittings for an Ensign Staff.

The kit doesn’t include the fittings and few contemporary models show them.

 

I don’t have any specific evidence for the type used on ‘Indy’, but I think she would have had them.

These items are provided with the Sphinx kit, but a simple Cap-square and step for the staff would be fairly easy to make.

 

Onto the Channels.

 

B.E.

02/02/2024

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Thirty-nine 

Channels

I made up the channels and trial fitted back in January (Post 127).

3194

Now that the inboard fittings have been done this is an opportune time to complete the job.

3543

Small weights are used to maintain the level until the glue sets.

3546

The  brackets are added before painting, the underside of the channels were painted before fitting.

3548

3552

3555

3556

3560

A final tidy-up of the Topsides can now be done.

 

 

B.E.

04/02/2024

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Forty

 

Thinking about Deadeyes   

The rigging on Indy is that of a Sixty-four, I understand that initial use of lesser rated masting and rigging proved unsuccessful.

 

By reference to Steel, a Sixty-four had Deadeye sizes given as:

Fore and Mainmast shrouds 16”, TM Backstays 10”, and T’gallant Backstays 6”

Mizen mast shrouds 10” TM Backstays 8”, T’gallant Backstays 4” thimbles. The Indy Adm plan shows a deadeye.

These equate to scale sizes of 6.35mm, 4mm, 3.2mm, and 2.4mm.

 

The kit includes three sizes of Deadeye; 7mm, 5mm, and 3mm.

3561

These look good on the model, and I like that the delineation between the deadeyes for the shrouds and two sizes of Backstays. 

I am not sufficiently moved to start looking around for closer matches to Steel, but I may substitute a 2.5mm deadeye for the Mizen T’gallant backstay.

 

The kit Deadeyes are the standard version, Walnut I think, but they are cleanly formed with evenly set holes.

I can detect very little difference to the Pear versions except for the colour.

3566

I actually like the colour of the standard version, seems to suit my model.

 

In my case there was little point in going for the more expensive Pear version as I wouldn’t be rigging the model.

The standard rigging blocks are a different story;

3568

Not all modelers will be concerned by this sort of detail, but for me these belong to a bygone modelling age, blocky, single hole affairs not worthy of  using on a kit of Vanguard quality.

If the model is to be rigged then the Pear version will cost you an extra £140, a worthwhile expense in my opinion.

 

Spoiling the ship for a ha’porth of tar comes to mind.

 

Anyone want some bags of rigging blocks before I bin them?

 

 

B.E.

05/02/2024

 

[Wintergreen]

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Anyone want some bags of rigging blocks before I bin them?

I'm good, thank you. 

Getting every little detail to match in scale is hard work. I think you've made a sober decision re the dead eyes.

 

Keep it up BE!

[Blue Ensign]

Cheers  Håkan,  I certainly didn't have you in mind for this rare offer of rigging blocks😉

 

Post One Hundred and Forty-0ne

From this point in the build I will be jumping around attending to bits and pieces as takes my fancy.

 

One of the areas I thought could do with some enhancement is the gangway from the Poop to the Qtr deck.

Prototype build photo.

Beautifully crafted by James, but the kit arrangement seems to be a simplification having a couple of stanchions on the gangway with a rope guard leading down to the Qtr deck.

 

This doesn’t reflect the more substantial arrangements in the 18^th century as demonstrated on several contemporary models.

To my eye there is an awkward gap between the Poop waist rail and the aftermost stanchion.

3569

3579

I made up newel posts from some Pear section and rails from 3mm pear strip.

3587

I have decided to varnish the newels and Poop rail posts rather than paint them.

3590

3592

3594

I think the arrangement looks more appropriate for a ship of this stature.

 

B.E.

06/02/2024

 

 

 

Edited February 6 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Forty-two

 

Back to the head 

The stump Bowsprit has been secured in place.

I like to add fittings to the Bowsprit as far as its length permits.

 

Gammoning

For a Sixty-four, rope of 7”circ is required, scaling to 0.88mm ø.

3597

The first job is to determine the position of the gammoning cleats.

3598

The kit provided cleats (M73) looked a little undersize to my eye, so I remade the five required from some Boxwood section.

 

The line

I used Syren 0.88mm ø line dyed with Colon dark Jacobean oak wood dye, which is my go-to for standing rigging. I have never been keen on kit provided black line.

3604

It is important to ensure that enough line is taken to complete the turns and frapping. I allowed 60” to complete the job, I had 12” left over, which is just about right.

The gammoning starts thro’ an eye splice on the Port side, and the line twists as it passes from fore to aft with each turn.

 

Steel refers to cross turns of the frapping.
when all the turns are passed, and hove tight, they are frapped together in the middle, by as many cross turns as are passed over the bowsprit, each turn hove tight: the end of the gammoning rope is then whipt, and seized to one of the turns. the frapping increases the tension; and adds to the security acquired by the purchase.

 

Horse

One of the features of the head almost entirely missing from kits is the iron (Horse) a rail that runs between the Main rail fore and aft supported by an iron stanchion. The horse hooks into eyebolts in the main Rail.

3607

Often this has netting strung along it as a safety feature.

3608

I like to add this fitting, fairly simple, if you have the makings.

I use lengths of 0.7mm brass rod, and eyebolts and stanchions from the kit.

 

Boomkins

These simple to make fittings proved not so simple to fit.

Secured adjacent to the knightheads at the bow they run in a downwards direction where they are secured by a capsquare as they cross the False Rail.

3613

My problem is that they are obstructed by the seats of ease which I needed to modify slightly to give clearance.

Still work to do, the recess for the Boomkin needs adjusting for the angle, and there are capsquares to make.

 

At last, I can put the impressive figure into place.

3615

3617

3619

6320

3621

3624

The Head is all but done now, back to the repetitive task of deadeye stropping and chainplate fixing.

 

 

B.E.

 

08/02/2024

 

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Forty-three

 

Strops, Chains, and Plates. (Part One)

Time consuming items, even before assembly starts.

Removing from the fret, sorting the various components, prepping for chemical blackening, and the process itself.

3626

It helps to have a system to speed up the job and to avoid mixing up the parts.

 

There are a lot of individual items to be blackened, which are done in batches per side.

 

My procedure:

Clean with fine steel wool.

Acid dip and rinse.

Immerse in diluted blackening fluid. My preference is for Carr’s Metal black for brass.

Rinse

Buff and repeat to taste.

3628

3630

Using the above system the strops blackened quickly and following a buff required very little re-treatment.

3631

The strops fit beautifully thro’ the channel slots without any need for adjustment. 

 

Fitting the Deadeyes into the strops is done with care to reduce the risk of scarring the blackened strops.

3634

These pliers are perfect for the job.

3644

3636

3652

For the aftermost strop on the Mizen stool which is for the T’gallant Backstay I have replaced the 3mm deadeye arrangement with a 2.5mm size, to better reflect  the lighter line.

3654

The T’gallant Backstay is of 2½” circ. This equates to a scale diameter of 0.3mm, compared to 0.5mm ø for the 4”circ Topmast backstays.

3656

The smaller version dispenses with links and chains and is fixed directly to the hull adjacent to the roof line. This accords with the Official Adm plan.

One additional benefit is that there is no need to try and cram an additional chain fixing in the very small space between the gallery lights and the aftermost gunport.

 

Two full days have been spent on the starboard side thus far, but a race it ain’t.

The second stage is fixing the chains and Preventer plates to secure the strops.

 

Hoping that the Preventer plates fall right on my build.🤞

 

 

B.E.

10/02/2024

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Forty-four

 

Strops, Chains, and Plates. (Part two)

The brass etched chains and plates are very nicely made and scaled, and as with the strops took the blackening well.

There are two main considerations in fitting the chains and plates.

 

1.  The angle; they should follow the line of the shroud or stay to which they relate.

2.  The middle and lower links of the chains should be taut when drilling the hole in the hull where they are fixed by the Preventer Plate.

 

I used a 0.4mm ø drill for the fixing holes and blackened pins as supplied with the kit.

 

A pin pusher was used to drive the pins home, I found glue was unnecessary.

1864a

1866a

1868a

My only diversion from the kit plan is in respect of the backstays on the Mizen stool.

1869a

I shortened the upper link for the Mizen Topmast backstay and used a smaller version of the lower link. (left over from a previous build)

1871a

 A smaller 2.5mm deadeye was used for the Mizen T’gallant Backstay.

I made a new combined strop and strap from some 0.5mm brass wire, silver soldered for the strap. This allows the deadeye to sit as per the Adm plan.

1872a

When it comes to the Deadeye iron work Chris has done a great job, the plans and drawings clearly identify the relevant parts and their fixing points.👍

 

B.E.

14/02/2024

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Forty-five

 

Stern Lanterns

A pair of Resin lanterns are provided in the kit with Brass etch brackets. Pre-cut acetate glazing that only requires folding to shape, completes the package.

Beautifully crafted, but my initial impression was that they looked a tad on the small size, but I needed to see them on the model.

3685

The plan is used to get the line of the crank.

3686

Assembly is simple, the tricky part if it can be called that, is fitting the ironwork to the stern gallery, particularly when you have lost track of the fixing holes.🙄

3688

I found it easier to use longer lengths of 0.8mm brass wire to form and fit the cranks.

3690

The only addition I made are fixing plates to the stern.

Apart from that I had to file the bottom of the clear glazing a tad to allow the lantern tops to sit down on the framing.

3694

Is my initial impression that they may be a little undersized borne out?

Perhaps not when compared to the contemporary model of Amazon below.

Amazon Stern

I could not find original records relating the ships lantern sizes by rate, and of course I’m not privy to the information used as a basis for the ‘Indy’ Lanterns.

 

I did check out relative sizes from my available sources, and for what it’s worth this is what I gleaned.

 

Victory - side lantern 57½” o/a height (22.8mm at 1:64 scale)

 

Bellona – 62½” o/a height (24.8mm at 1:64) scale drawing AotS book.

 

Pandora – 40¼” o/a height (16.0mm at 1:64) scale drawing AotS book.

 

Leopard  (50 gun ship 1790) - 53” o/a height (21mm at 1:64) Scale drawing John McKay from The 50-Gun Ship.

 

Sixth rate sloop– 51” o/a height (20.25mm at 1:64) scale drawing FFM Sixth rate book from a reconstruction.

 

Indefatigable – 44” o/a height (17.5mm at 1:64 scale) - actual kit fitting.

 

Another option is the exquisite Boxwood lantern 3/16^th (1:64) scale from Syren.

This measures 7/8^th" (22.25mm) which equates to a 56” o/a height.

1827

I used this on my Pegasus build, and I think it is a viable option for ‘Indy’.

 

3704

On balance I think I will stick with the kit version.

3702

3697

Onwards,

 

B.E.

16/02/2024

 

[Mirabell61]

super neat work B.E.

 

Nils

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Nils, but every time I do a set of macro's I see  another little area needing attention, but getting there by degrees.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and Forty-six

 

Thinking about Masts

For a change of focus I have turned my attention to the fitting of masts, or stump versions thereof.

 

At this point I need to determine the overall height of the model so I can order the display case.

 

My masts will finish below the hounds but will include those elements that would appear on the length displayed.

These will include the wooldings, Cheeks, Front fish, and iron hoops.

3711

I start with the Mainmast as this will determine the length of the other masts, and I first need to decide what overall height looks best.

They need to look proportionate, but I am conscious that the taller they are the bigger the case requirement.

3716

In Chris’s design the Mainmast has a set of nine wooldings with eight iron hoops between.

The iron hoops fit beneath the Front fish and cheeks, and the wooldings over both cheeks and fish.

3720

Gauging the relative heights.

3722

The Mainmast now sits around 15” above the stand with the Fore and Mizen reduced proportionately.

3724

I use only Ramin dowel for the lower masts, 12mm, 10mm, and 8mm.

08070

Once treated with w-o-p the colour takes on a warm ochre tone as shown here on my Sphinx build.

Not included on the kit plans for either Sphinx or ‘Indy’ are the wooden hoops top and bottom of the wooldings that secure them in place.

 

B.E.

18/02/2024

 

 

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and forty-seven

 

A case for Indy – or the trials and tribulations of a shipaholic

 

My previous supplier of acrylic cases, Paul, of Just bases, in Devon, retired in 2021 so I have to look for another source to provide the housing for the latest cuckoo in my nest.

 

The required internal dimensions are width 40”, depth 12” and height 17”. (To allow for stump masts.)

Still a sizeable space taker, but nothing compared to that required for a fully masted and rigged Indy. It’s a good job that I have no aspirations in that direction.

8808

By comparison my Sphinx (above) is housed in a case 30” x 10” x 12” a much more manageable option.

 

I found a home for Sphinx, but as I write I am struggling to find a space for Indy.

 

I have had a look around acrylic case suppliers, and they are expensive.

 

A random selection on the web.

 (acrylicdisplaycases.co.uk)  - £369 excl VAT

 

Display Cases | Striking Displays  - £442.80 excl VAT

 

Model Display Cases & Cabinets | Luminati  - £372.97 excl VAT

These figures also exclude any delivery charges.

 

A search on MSW brought up a reference by Dan (DB789) on his Grecian build to a company called DSC Cases. 

DSC Showcases UK manufacturer of display cases, picture box wall cabinets for modellers and collectors

 

These are wooden trimmed glass cases and one sized for my Indy would cost £220.80. plus £30 delivery.

 

I now only have one glass- cased model in the house, I made it myself many years ago, but these days I simply can’t be arsed.

2801

A favourite of mine, she sits high up between the wall cupboards.

 

Mrs W has mentioned more than once that she must be the only woman ‘blessed’ with having a Flower Class Corvette in her Scullery! 🙄

 

I digress, but it illustrates the shrinking availability of space after some five decades of model making. Most rooms have their allocation of ship models around the house, and I am now being pressed on ‘where you goin’ to put that.

 

Oh, I’ll find somewhere, sez I confidently, wandering around the house 40” rule in hand. 🫤

3730

The ideal place would be atop the chest of drawers in my office, but that is taken by Norske Love, a dusty but much-loved model, I really must get around to cleaning her.

I don’t think I could bear to move her out after all these years.

 

 

I have placed my order with DCS Show cases and I now have around a month to find a suitable place to display her.

 

Tick tock.

 

 

B.E.

19/02/2024

 

[hollowneck]

On 2/5/2024 at 8:03 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Anyone want some bags of rigging blocks before I bin them?

No thanks, B.E. I'd suggest putting them in your kindling box.

[hollowneck]

B.E. After placing several models in my home, I'm on the cusp of having a similar problem with space allocation.

If your home has a high ceiling, this option could be an alternative. Another benefit: no case required, just an occasional dusting with a canister of compressed air...

[Blue Ensign]

Looks like a votive model Ron, but unfortunately my ceilings don’t run to church like elevations.

The last time I hung a model from the ceiling I was ten years old and it was a 1:72 scale Spitfire.😃

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and forty-eight

 

Fitting the Main ordnance 

The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.

 

The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.

Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731

For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.

 

For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  

For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.

 

The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.

 

Port Lids

These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.

For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.

 

As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.

 

3737

I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.

 

I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736

I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739

It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.

 

In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744

The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760

My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747

Three after port lids in position.

3748

The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.

 

The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.

I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.

(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749

I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.

The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.

On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.

 

An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.

I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.

 

3752

I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.

 

 

B.E.

22/02/2024

 

[Wintergreen]

You've done a convincing job with the lids I'd say. They blend in perfectly with the hull 🙂 

 

Keep it up!

[Blue Ensign]

Post One Hundred and forty-nine 

 

Thinking more about Gunport lid fittings

Before I start the gunport fixing on the Starboard side, my mind keeps returning to those single lanyard fittings.

 

The provided port lids look pretty enough and the brass etch versions provide an easy fixing to the hull with the combined hinge, port stop and flexible tangs for fixing the lid to the hull in the open position.

 

However, I do like to make changes to enhance historical accuracy where I can, and I think Indy should really have double lanyards.

 

On a model the size of Indy, particularly Navy board style, such detail gains more prominence, not having all the top hamper to distract the eye.

3763

Revision One

I have mocked up a revised port using a spare port lid.

I am using Syren laser board rudder straps, cut to size to act as the hinge straps.

These conveniently have nail holes pre-drilled, the bottom one is drilled thro’ to take the ring bolts for the lanyards.

 

The tricky part is representing the port hooks that secure the hinge.

For the purposes of my exercise, I have used separate tiny segments of Boxwood.

The final touch is to add spots of pva to represent the bolt heads.

 

This would work for closed ports but for open ports wire would need to be inserted in the top edge to replace the tangs on the kit version.

 

Revision Two

I had abandoned an early attempt to drill thro’ the bottom bolt head of the kit  hinge due to broken bits. 

I resolved to try again.

 

I filed the bolt head flat and started the hole with an awl. This time I was able to drill thro’ using a 0.6mm drill in a pin vise without breaking the bit.

3772

I secured the hinge to my mini anvil using double sided tape. 

The ideal solution would be if the hinges could be pre-drilled during manufacture.

3780

Modified hinge straps on the Fore port. The example above it is the laser board version.

3781

The forward of the three port lids will be displayed open.

3782

So, the starboard side ports are fitted with correct double lanyard fixings, and the Port side for a central single lanyard.

3748

Perversely, I think the single lanyard arrangement has a better aesthetic.

 

One last thought on gunport lids:

The second and third ports from the bow, adjacent to the Galley, are without lids. These ports lie beneath the Fore Channels.

3784

This is a tricky area, some contemporary models have them some don’t.

Logical thinking would support the fitting of lids for those adjacent to the Galley Stove. One big wave and out goes the stove fire that the cook has spent some time getting up to heat, but I don't think they lit the stove in very severe weather..

 

I note that Alex M’s drawings for his Anson razee do include lids in this area, and incidentally double lid lanyards.

The fitting of port lids in the open waist and Qtr deck areas was removed by Navy Board order dating from 1703.

 

Well, that little excursion has soaked up a day and a half,

...........time to move on.🙄

 

 

B.E.

 

24/02/2024

 

 

[Vladimir_Wairoa]

nice work on nice ship

[hollowneck]

6 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Well, that little excursion has soaked up a day and a half,

...........time to move on.🙄

Nice detailing on the lids, getting very close, BE!

For my (similar) models I've squeezed both open ends of the upper chain links closed. I could be wrong, but I'd think these critical items needed to be more secure. It's possible that after they were wrought that this wasn't possible. Admittedly, I've been unable to find any specific reference on this detail.