HMS Snake by Beef Wellington - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1: 64 - First wooden ship build

[dafi]

Wonderful build, love it :-) :-) :-)

 

XXXDan

[Beef Wellington]

Even though still plenty of work to do on spars,I've started thinking about the final rigging steps.  I pulled together a list of the various rigging elements and tied the various Caldercraft rigging plans to Petersson's  excellent Rigging period Ship models reference book which I find much easier to follow....

 

 

Of course, the proof of the pudding is in the eating, so won't see errors until the rigging is started.  Errors are of course my fault, but please let me know so I can correct.  I may also post this in the main forum section.

 

 

Question - What are peoples recommendations on the order to add yards?  I was going to start at the fore mast, then foretopsaill and fore topgallant, then the same for the main main and mizzen.  Think adding Jib-boom, spritsail yard and the spanker/gaff makes most sense as these seem most susceptible to accidents.

 

Caldercraft HMS Snake Rigging Chart.pdf

Edited June 22, 2015 by Beef Wellington

[jwvolz]

Jason, that is the exact order I just did the Granado. I find the spritsail yard particularly vulnerable to my elbows at times...

[NMBROOK]

Great to see you back in the shipyard Jason.Going through a similar period of distractions myself,mainly work related and trying to move closer to my new job.Spending too much time on the motorway that could be spent modelling.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[Landlubber Mike]

Hi Jason, good idea to start planning all this in advance.  I throw these thoughts out there with the caveat that I only have one build under my belt, and my Badger had much simpler rigging given its size and only two masts.  

 

Like Joe, I would strongly recommend leaving the spiritsail for as late in the build as possible.  I can't tell you how many times I clipped it, which popped off rigging on the bowsprit and even the fore mast.  I felt like I was spending literally 30% of my time redoing my previous work to fix all these accidents.

 

In terms of the masts, I went fore to aft.  Given my problems with the bowsprit, I'm going to think about whether it makes sense to start from the stern and work my way forward - even leaving the bowsprit off for as long as possible.  Someone else had suggested that to me, and I think that person said that zu Mondfeld suggested that approach.  I don't know if that included doing both the standing and running rigging together (i.e., start with the mizzen and run all the rigging, then move to the main mast and do all the rigging, etc.), but obviously you're past that decision point now.  

 

A few more suggestions.  When it comes to belaying points, it might be helpful to fix lines starting at the center of the model and work your way outwards.  Also, if possible, consider not fixing the standing backstays until towards the end of the rigging.  I don't know how I would have gotten to the center belaying points if the standing backstays were fixed earlier on (the Badger instructions called for installing all the standing rigging, then do all the running rigging).  Along those lines, if you are going to add small boats, I went ahead and installed them before starting much of the rigging.  The Badger instructions called for them to be installed as the very last item on the build, but I have no clue how anyone could add them once all the rigging was on.

 

I'm sure you'll do great whatever you decide.  Just watch the elbows!

Edited June 24, 2015 by Landlubber Mike

[Beef Wellington]

Mike, Joe - thanks for taking the time explain, very helpful indeed.  I think I'm getting into some new 'lots of questions' territory.

 

Nigel - likewise, happy you are "back"

 

All the best.

[mort stoll]

Hi Jason,

 

I rig all of my masts and bowsprit off of the model. I find it much easier. I support the masts in a vice and mount the yards to them. Each line - the fore topsail lifts for example -  of the standing and running rigging are labeled with tape and clipped together with a small copper radio shack clips after they are installed on the yard and hang down. It may sound confusing and like a pile of spaghetti but is  very organized and workable. 

 

I rig from bow to stern. A fellow New Jersey swears by stern to bow. I rig from inside out and top to bottom.  

 

Hope this helps. Any questions do not hesitate.

Mort

[jim_smits]

Hi Jason,

 

Best of luck with your rigging.

 

I really ought to post some updates to my build but I am rigging from stern to bow currently. This may or may not be a good idea but I will find out in due course. The main thing I have learnt in this process is all of the extra blocks that need to be rigged to the masts that are not shown on the mast plans, Consequently I am having to add them in situ and this is not too easy.

 

I've got the mizzen 95% rigged with boom and gaff and have now added the main yard with the jeers and slings. Not encountered any major problems with the order I am proceeding but as pointed out by Mike, planning my belaying order would help matters....

[mort stoll]

Hi Jason,

 

I forgot to include that I mount the masts with all of the lines attached 1 at a time and secure them as they did back in the day by means of the shrouds and various stays. I do the same thing with the yards. The clips on the halyards keep them stable during the rigging process.

 

Mort

[Beef Wellington]

Cheers Jim and the likes, and thanks Mort - unfortunately I'm way beyond that decision but something to think about for the future...

 

Rigging seems to be a little bit of a neglected area on this site, so wanted to post few pics of progress, for things specific to this kit where may be of help to others and also to hopefully capture where I've deviated from the plans.  Petersson has been INVALUABLE!

 

As a side note, I also nearly had a heart attack when I brought Snake outside for a few photos - I normally work in artificial light in my basement, and the natural light made all sorts of sorts of previously unseen 'fuzzies' VERY apparent.  I vow never to use kit supplied line again, but am committed to making it work here for consistency.  Will probably try brushing on some dilute PVA to try to tame them at some point.

 

I've found the following 3 scenarios to be common:

1. Plans are not clear - in these cases I've tried to follow Petersson
2. Plans are clear enough and are somewhat consistent with Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans but tweaked in some cases where it seems to make more sense
3. Plans are clear enough, but differ from Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans, unless Petersson seems more logical/elegant.

 

Foreyard and Fore Topmast

 

Fore yard prior to installation.  Jeers and slings also pre-rigged

 

Foremast installed.  I used thicker line on the jeers (.75mm) as this seemed more in keeping with pictures I've found and attached round the yard following Petersson.   As expected, I found lashing the slings rather challenging.

I found the trusses could be made following plans and Petersson, but was the devil trying to get in place with all pendants and catharpins.  Truss in place (sorry picture is little blurry), I did not even attempt to put in the knave line!

 

Fore-topmast in place.  Found the parrals very fiddly to do, but they can be done according to Petersson.  I gave the parral beads a couple of goes in the drum sander to take off the shine and it gave a very pleasing result.

The fore-topsail yard tie and lifts were taken around the fore-topmast with an eye splice as per Petersson.

Belaying items for the foremast is rather challenging on Snake as the for'd bits are very close to the platform and leaves very little room for maneuver.  I also didn't make this any easier by belaying the hawsers around the bits either.

 

And finally, where things stand currently...I added flemish horses to the fore-topsail which are not identified in the Snake plans, but seem pretty ubiquitous and covered in Lever.

Edited July 12, 2015 by Beef Wellington

[Landlubber Mike]

Damn, that's looking really nice Jason.  Great work!

[JesseLee]

Awesome !

[md1400cs]

Jason,

 

Your super well detailed very large format photos are a great treat. Beautiful work!!!!

 

Michael

[mort stoll]

Hi Jason,

 

The rigging looks great. You are correct Petersson is invaluable. I run all of my rigging line thru beeswax 4 or 5 times and that will cure any fuzzies. As for already installed lines gently run Slmers School Glue over them. That should work.

 

Keep up the great work,

Mort

[jwvolz]

Looking good Jason!

[Jimz66]

Excellent work Jason. Nicely done. 

[Beef Wellington]

Mike, Jesse, Michael, Joe, Jimz - thanks for kind words and support and all of the likes.

 

Mort - I am so glad you posted!! I had bought some beeswax near the start of the build, of course that was 3yrs ago and I had completely forgotten I had it after putting it at the back of the cabinet.  I undid some of the lines that I could and followed your guidance, it really does help, not just with fuzzies but also makes it easier to work with especially with belaying.  I realized re-looking at the picture that I have to also remind myself that I will not be looking at the model through a microscope, it looks no-where near as bad in person to the unaided eye.

 

Something else I noticed in the photos, some of the footropes are not that even and think I can do better, especially using the beeswax.  Not committing yet, but think there will be redo here as well.

Edited July 14, 2015 by Beef Wellington

[cog]

And I thought you had very tall sailors, Jason ... just kiddin' ... your work does you honour!

[Mirabell61]

Jason,

 

beautiful rigging at foretop and fore Yards, well done !

 

Nils

[mort stoll]

My pleasure my friend. My pleasure.

 

Mort

[drtrap]

Sjors, Alistair and the 'likers' appreciate your continued interest and support.

 

Small progress update, finished rigging the bobstays and the bowsprit shrouds.  Boomkins made up but not glued yet as there was the potential to interfere with the bowsprit shroud.  These will be left off until later as they just seem too much of an accident waiting to happen.  Instructions indicate these should be made with 4mm dowel but even with tapering it looked far to thick so made up a set using 2mm dowel tapered slightly at the end which seems more consistent with pictures I've seen.

 

IMG_0550.JPGIMG_05

The 3D placement of the boomkin is a real head-ache Jason.

Did you finally find its permanent orientation?

[drtrap]

The 3D placement of the boomkin is a real head-ache Jason.

Did you finally find its permanent orientation?

I think your #682 pics are the final and the placement is important to be accomplished after the bowsprit rigging

[Beef Wellington]

Yes Stergios, think it best to leave boomkins and the associated rigging until as late as possible, they are rather delicate.

[drtrap]

On 3/6/2015 at 5:29 AM, Beef Wellington said:

Carl, Jonny, Nils, Mort and Jim and the 'likes', thanks for the "welcome back"...

 

Breaking up shaping the remaining yards with the first of what I suspect will be a lot of work on rigging the yards, the lower sling.

 

Previously estimated length of line was served, and then fed through itself to make a loop.  About 6mm was left to allow the end to be cut into a short taper.  GS Hypo glue was then placed on the end and rolled between my fingers.  The thin thread is the end of the serving line not yet trimmed)

 

 

Thread was then used to cover the unserved join, I used consecutive overhand knots, alternating sides.... 

 

 

Maybe a little bulky, but once trimmed its a reasonable approximation to a spliced, served loop.

 

 

Fitted to the main yard....

 

 

....and length checked to confirm it is of correct length.  Second time was a charm!

 

Hi Jason

That metallic (?) ring/"eye" of the lower sling, belongs to the standard kit's fittings?

Thank you.

[Beef Wellington]

Hi Stergios - I got them from Blue Jacket Shipcrafters.  I seem to recall they were the 'bullseyes' - but don't recall which ones exactly...

 

http://www.bluejacketinc.com/fittings/fittings4.htm

Edited January 18, 2018 by Beef Wellington

[drtrap]

3 hours ago, Beef Wellington said:

Hi Stergios - I got them from Blue Jacket Shipcrafters.  I seem to recall they were the 'bullseyes' - but don't recall which ones exactly...

 

http://www.bluejacketinc.com/fittings/fittings4.htm

Than you again Jason.

I plan to use a 5mm deadeye and open a central hole to serve as the eye for the sling.

 

[Old Collingwood]

Very very nice work  - cant beat frigates.

 

OC.

[Beef Wellington]

Greetings all,

 

Really is time I got back to finish Snake, time just flies, and incredible that my last update was July 2015!  .  Firstly, she's been staring at me from across the room and I can't avert my eyes any longer from embarrassment with her so neglected.  Secondly, I feel I really need to finish her to be able to hold my head up on this forum by having actually completed something, and thirdly, there are some things I need to contemplate on 'Jason' and skills to hone before I move forward.

 

I'll be honest, it was a little bit of a challenge getting going again, there are many things about her that I'm not too happy with, but recognize that this is still a first build using kit supplied parts so just need to be happy with it.  One trick I've found to reduce 'fuzzies' is simply to use a brush to stroke warm water onto the line.  I've tried bees wax, but from my experience it just seemed to result in dandruff!

 

So what exactly has been done:

• Rigging on the foremast has completed for now to include the sheets and clew-line
• Main mast yards are installed and similarly completed (some lines that belay outside of the line of the main shroud are being left for now to give more room to access the mizzen mast area)
• Much rework has been done in the completion of the above tasks, which certainly slowed progress, including:
  • Re-rigging many of the horses in situ, trying to give them a little more 'slack'
  • Definitely a case of 2 steps forward and 1 step back picking this back up.  The dexterity needed to navigate around the increasingly catch prone pointy bits eluded me, and for every yard rigged it seemed I had to re-strop a block that slipped loose as a result of unwanted contact with a spar or line.  Thankfully nothing wooden has broken.  Putting a positive spin on this, it definitely required honing of skills - the most aggravating and challenging fix was probably the violin block for the fore mainyard lift (photo below).  This was re-stropped in situ and required keeping the existing lines suitably taught and navigating around the existing rigging- despite some rather salty language, this was honestly a bit of a boost after recognizing that if that was possible, pretty much anything can be fixed.  (Seizing black thread around black line against the black woodwork proved too much for the eye...)
  •  
  • 

 

Finally where things stand.  I'm standing by the decision to rig starting with forward masts and moving aft, going from lower to upper.  Suspect next up will be the spanker and gaff before installing the cross-jack.  

 

[cog]

You are rather quick to pick things up again Jason. I'll follow along, search for my seat ...

[Blue Ensign]

Good to see work has restarted Jason. 👍

 

 

B.E.