captainbob Posted March 15, 2014 Share #781 Posted March 15, 2014 Ah that hawsehole lining looks just right. Last night as I lay in bed I came up with the same method, but thanks for showing how first, now I know it will work. What metal is the pipe it looks too silver to be brass? I will be using 1/4” brass. Bob Quote Every build is a learning experience. Current build: SS_ Mariefred Completed builds: US Coast Guard Pequot Friendship-sloop, Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard, Spray, Grand-Banks-dory, a gaff rigged yawl, HOGA (YT-146), Int'l Dragon Class II, Two Edwardian Launches In the Gallery: Catboat, International-Dragon-Class, Spray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBlack Posted March 15, 2014 Share #782 Posted March 15, 2014 Michael, It occurs to me that your solutions are always simple yet elegant, and effective. But also your presentation and photography are most complete. It's a joy to read your log! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senior ole salt Posted March 15, 2014 Share #783 Posted March 15, 2014 I feel privileged for the opportunity to watch master craftsman at work,employing many trades. Thank you Mike for sharing your skills with the members of MSW. S.os Quote New Bedford Whaleboat build. Kit by Model Shipways I've been making progress on my model and according to the instruction booklet I should be painting it, at least parts of it. Are acrylic's ok ? I did apply a sanding sealer. but I want to stain the untreated floor boards which are walnut. Thanks S.O.S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted March 15, 2014 Share #784 Posted March 15, 2014 Ah, you do make things with flare, Michael! newbuilder101 1 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael mott Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share #785 Posted March 15, 2014 Geoff, thanks, I have to say that I have had the same experience following along with others who show how they solve a particular task. Bob, the metal is indeed brass, I think that the colour was off because of lighting. I also think that the Flaring would be easier with copper, which I will try. The other tube that I did not flair yet is 7/32 diameter brass. The tools I used were given to me a long time ago by a jeweler, they are just shaped silver steel and hardened. Tom, thanks for your kind remark, I have been following the examples set by builders like Ed Tosti and Karl among others. S.os, thanks for the compliment, sharing what I know is the least I can do in return for the amount of knowledge that I gain from the members of this site. Druxey, thanks for your continued support and for your articulate and timely use of our language:>) Michael Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Lad Posted March 15, 2014 Share #786 Posted March 15, 2014 Michael, You've certainly made some good progress while I've been away for a few days! Great work (as usual). As for the turks head, here's a very bad photo of my Palmerin under construction. You can see the binding on the tiller backed up by a turks head - scale 1:48, so I don't think you'll have a problem, mate! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael mott Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share #787 Posted March 16, 2014 John, thanks for checking out the progress. I had a chance to make a second hawser fairing, this time I used copper, definitely a better choice of material, it is much more malleable I only needed 2 annealings. I am tired so just a sequence of pictures using exactly the same process as the 1/8th diameter one, I will make the smaller ones out of 1/8th copper tube. The most work forming was done with this tool The last picture is showing the difference between the 1/8th brass one and the 1/4 copper one. Also the four different tools for forming and some metal snips and file, the final polish was done with wire wool Michael hexnut, JerryTodd, EdT and 15 others 18 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sailor1234567890 Posted March 16, 2014 Share #788 Posted March 16, 2014 Very nice metal work. Beautifully done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted March 16, 2014 Share #789 Posted March 16, 2014 Sweet! Having recently learned repoussé techniques, I recognize some of the tools you've used to form the metal. Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mirabell61 Posted March 16, 2014 Share #790 Posted March 16, 2014 great lesson Michael, very nice way of getting anchor tube openings flush to the hull, without just sawing them off at a certain angle, Thank you for sharing Nils Quote Current builds -Lightship Elbe 1 Completed - Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild - "Zeesboot" heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB clinker scratch build scale 1:24 - Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild - Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build - Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) "SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild) "HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan -"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96 (scratchbuild) -"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) "Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild) original was my grandfathers ship -"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 "Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32 under restoration / restoration finished "Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themadchemist Posted March 16, 2014 Share #791 Posted March 16, 2014 I haven't checked in to see your log in a while Michael and as always I'm just simply astounded with your manufacturing of so many varying parts.I truly appreciate that you take the time to photograph and share the step by step processes. As I soon plan to restart the DSotM I have plans to borrow your bow shroud design and hadn't even considered how to line the bulwark hole. That is some beautiful metal work my friend. More beautiful shackles also.I really like the boom support knees, something else I never considered, but now am.Your build really gets the gears in my head working, which is a good thing as that is how we grow in this hobby from one another. Thanks for being a mentor to myself and many others I'm certain. I really appreciate the effort you put into your log. I have learned so much from it and have absorbed so many ideas. Take a bow, for not just a spectacular build, but for the build log that goes that extra mile and shows the beauty of the construction process. By the way, I love the journal entry. Its good your living that dream. As Leo Buscaglia use to say - if I had my life to live over I wouldn't change anything, I'd just do MORE. captainbob and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainbob Posted March 16, 2014 Share #792 Posted March 16, 2014 Well done. Well done. Bob Quote Every build is a learning experience. Current build: SS_ Mariefred Completed builds: US Coast Guard Pequot Friendship-sloop, Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard, Spray, Grand-Banks-dory, a gaff rigged yawl, HOGA (YT-146), Int'l Dragon Class II, Two Edwardian Launches In the Gallery: Catboat, International-Dragon-Class, Spray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJSoane Posted March 16, 2014 Share #793 Posted March 16, 2014 Michael, Perfection! Your skills are astounding. Mark Quote Current build: HMS Bellona 74, ca. 1760, 1:64 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/196-hms-bellona-by-sjsoane-scale-164-1760-as-designed/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael mott Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share #794 Posted March 17, 2014 Thank you all for the really positive comments it really means great deal. and for all the likes. The things that we are pleased with seem to be countered sometimes by those that we are not. The fittings for the ropes through the bulwarks will be fine using copper. The cap rail of the cockpit however is a different story, I am not happy with the way this has turned out. after sanding it to profile it was treated with Tung oil. the joints are way too obvious and the contrast is much greater than I anticipated. I will see what it looks like when the oil has dried but my guess is that I will still be disappointed. In that event I will sand it off and do it over using some slightly different steps. The first thing will be to use solid material for the straight parts and re laminate some new corners. I think I will use either Maple Birch or Cherry, I will look at how each laminate up on the tight radius first. Michael mtaylor, druxey, Yambo and 6 others 9 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael mott Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share #795 Posted March 17, 2014 The deed is done. The square cherry for the straight sections. The colour is closer to the mahogany but will still provide some contrast. A series of short pieces soaked for a short time and wrapped around the form. The rest of the cherry will soak overnight. Michael EdT, PeteB, klimi and 5 others 8 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bedford Posted March 17, 2014 Share #796 Posted March 17, 2014 You are doing some great things Michael, pity about the timbers but it's all about trial and error, especially with a scratch build. I am sure you will get it perfect. Steve Quote Ships built :- Schooner for Port Jackson Thermoplylae Bluenose II Full size Tammie Norrie dinghy 1:8 scale Miss Caroline, model of the full size boat I built Under construction :- Royal Caroline, this one is special as it is in memory of my 13 year old daughter, Caroline who passed away in 2005 Miane three masted schooner R/C, scratch build (on hold) Charles W Morgan (on hold) Scratch designed and built R/C Mahogany and Walnut speedboat (on hold) In the que :- S.T. Waratah, maybe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Lad Posted March 17, 2014 Share #797 Posted March 17, 2014 Very nice liner through the bulwark, Michael. I know that you'll end up with a cockpit coaming exactly right for your taste! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipmodel Posted March 17, 2014 Share #798 Posted March 17, 2014 Michael - Beautiful metalwork as always. Your hawse linings are cleaner and neater than some I have seen on some full sized boats. Best of success with the new cockpit cap. I think cherry will come up to a nice color against the mahogany. I sometimes use a thin metal strap as an outer binding layer when I do laminate bending. It reduces the chance of splitting the outer layer of wood. Dan EdT 1 Quote Current build -SS Mayaguez (c.1975) scale 1/16" = 1' (1:192) by Dan Pariser Prior scratch builds - Royal yacht Henrietta, USS Monitor, USS Maine, HMS Pelican, SS America, SS Rex, SS Uruguay, Viking knarr, Gokstad ship, Thames River Skiff , USS Oneida, Swan 42 racing yacht, Queen Anne's Revenge (1710), SS Andrea Doria (1952), SS Michelangelo (1962) , Queen Anne's Revenge (2nd model) USS/SS Leviathan (1914), James B Colgate (1892), POW bone model (circa 1800) restoration Prior kit builds - AL Dallas, Mamoli Bounty. Bluejacket America, North River Diligence, Airfix Sovereign of the Seas "Take big bites. Moderation is for monks." Robert A. Heinlein Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yambo Posted March 17, 2014 Share #799 Posted March 17, 2014 Would they not have scarf joints on the cap rail Michael rather than a butt joint? Beautiful work all the same! Quote If I'd known I was going to live this long, I'd have taken better care of myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.Coleman Posted March 17, 2014 Share #800 Posted March 17, 2014 It looks absolutely amazing. So clean and sharp! Quote Regards, Scott Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli Completed builds: 1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli - 1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli - 1:54 Adventure, Amati - 1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL 1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli - 1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel - 1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal Awaiting construction: 1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL - 1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael mott Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share #801 Posted March 17, 2014 Steve, John, Dan, Yambo, S. Coleman, thanks for the kind remarks. And again to those who pushed the like button. Would they not have scarf joints on the cap rail Michael rather than a butt joint? Beautiful work all the same! Yambo there will not be any butt joints only scarph joints, the cherry laying on the top of the cockpit is just that. I was looking at the proportion of the section. And on the original laminations I did vertical scarph joints, layer by layer. The cherry that soaked overnight went around the sharp corner very nicely and the first dried well. Dan thanks for the tip about the thin metal wrap, makes a great deal of sense. Michael Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yambo Posted March 17, 2014 Share #802 Posted March 17, 2014 My apologies Michael, now I've had a close look I can see the vertical scarph joint. When I looked earlier it looked like a butt joint and I was expecting to see one where the long cut line would be visible from the side, not from above (horizontal is not quite the word I'm looking for). I hesitate to give my opinion to one of MSW's master builders but if you could cut the corner sections from a sheet of the same wood rather than laminating it would give you a cleaner top finish as the corners will always look like a lamination joined to a solid rail. Quote If I'd known I was going to live this long, I'd have taken better care of myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdT Posted March 17, 2014 Share #803 Posted March 17, 2014 The metal strip is a good suggestion. Another approach to avoid splitting in the outer layers is to use male and female shaped parts to close on the laminate. I have also had success gluing the layers when they are formed using water-emulsion glue - PVA, ie. Titebond. Springback when dry is zero with this approach. Love your work on those metal tubes, Micheal. Ed Quote All EdT posted material Copyright 2016 Edward J Tosti Young America - extreme clipper 1853 Young America POB Version Modeling the Extreme Clipper Young America Vol 1 1:60 HMS Naiad 1797 The Naiad Frigate Vol I The Naiad Frigate Vol II1:96 Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael mott Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share #804 Posted March 17, 2014 Yambo no apologies needed, regarding the cutting from the solid wood it is something that I am contemplating finding a piece of cherry with a bit of curved grain would make that decision much easier. You are correct though about the difference in appearance and it is something I need to decide on from the aesthetic point of view. Ed thanks for endorsement on the tube, and you thoughts on the gluing I will try that, it makes a lot of sense. I did just clamp up the cherry that soaked overnight, bending it cold and with a metal wrap perhaps I will go unclamp it and redo it with the glue. I am also looking at some thinner sections. Michael mtaylor, avsjerome2003, Elmer Cornish and 6 others 9 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael mott Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share #805 Posted March 18, 2014 found a chunk of cherry that looked promising. After slabbing it up, and tracing out the top curves This took a while but I am happy with the way the joint looks I like the proportions better and think this will work out. I did do another test though using Ed's suggestion of adding the glue during the initial forming. I think though for this cockpit I will be using the curved grain pieces that came from around the knot in the wood. Michael shipmodel, mtaylor, garyshipwright and 13 others 16 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainbob Posted March 18, 2014 Share #806 Posted March 18, 2014 Michael, I agree the curved grain piece is the way to go. It will blend in better than the laminate. Bob Quote Every build is a learning experience. Current build: SS_ Mariefred Completed builds: US Coast Guard Pequot Friendship-sloop, Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard, Spray, Grand-Banks-dory, a gaff rigged yawl, HOGA (YT-146), Int'l Dragon Class II, Two Edwardian Launches In the Gallery: Catboat, International-Dragon-Class, Spray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael mott Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share #807 Posted March 19, 2014 Thanks Bob. I finished up the triple block today. The first picture shows the beginning of the second set of strapping for the outside of the three sheaves the inside one is already installed, these were bent up using some drill bits clamped in the vice to get the correct curves. the next one shows the way I formed the second bend by reversing the direction this allowed me to bend the strip until the outside leg was parallel to the side of the block. a little tweaking was needed to get the exact width for it to slide easily into the slots. The next one shows the set up for drilling through the rest of the wood and the brass bars after clamping the block to the wood table snug packing pieces of soft spruce were wedged into the sheave slots to prevent the drill from buckling the brass bars. The next shows the code numbering on the spacers so that I could get them sanded and returned to the same locations within the stack. Next the spacers were sanded to a consistent dimension using a simple jig, one for the top spacers and at the opposite end for the bottom spacers. I checked that there was enough room for the 7/8ths rope. The assembly was then glued together and given some final sanding and shaping. The next picture shows how I made the cover plate for the shaft for the sheaves. The brass shim-stock is .0015" the pencil is a 9H I drew the image in Corel draw full size at 1/4 inch diameter then mirror imaged it so that I could follow the lettering on the brass. the 9H is hard enough and because it is graphite there is a built in lubricant. it took a few tries scribbling the letters in reverse to get an acceptable rendition, (where's Leonardo when you need him?). Now to make the bottom block which is a double, and then two singles to complete the main sheet primary tackle. Michael themadchemist, druxey, avsjerome2003 and 22 others 25 Quote Current builds Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8; Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8; Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8 Other projects Pilot Cutter 1:500 ; Maria, 1:2 Now just a memory Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8 Finished projects A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100 Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WackoWolf Posted March 19, 2014 Share #808 Posted March 19, 2014 Excellent detail work. Keep the pictures coming. Quote Wacko Joe Go MSW :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bedford Posted March 19, 2014 Share #809 Posted March 19, 2014 Beautiful work Michael, You keep comming up with great ways of doing things and the details are brilliant. Steve Quote Ships built :- Schooner for Port Jackson Thermoplylae Bluenose II Full size Tammie Norrie dinghy 1:8 scale Miss Caroline, model of the full size boat I built Under construction :- Royal Caroline, this one is special as it is in memory of my 13 year old daughter, Caroline who passed away in 2005 Miane three masted schooner R/C, scratch build (on hold) Charles W Morgan (on hold) Scratch designed and built R/C Mahogany and Walnut speedboat (on hold) In the que :- S.T. Waratah, maybe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twister Posted March 19, 2014 Share #810 Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) As ever, beautiful workmanship Michael, especially the triple block.... Just thinking ahead, I know your intention is to fit radio control & all the associated components to ensure smooth operation. With a 3:1 purchase that's going to require a considerable length of sheet pull and I therefore don't think a standard winchdrum or arm type sailwinch servo is going to fit the bill. However, what will work is a drum type servo that's been 'hacked'. In essence, what you'll need to do is use a servo like the Hitec 785 (which can be converted to continuous running) coupled with a couple of micro switches to prevent over running. In practice, instead of the servo/winch position being proportional to the transmitter stick, the stick will become a switch, thus when pushed forward the servo runs in one direction and when pulled back the direction reverses with a central stick resulting in the drum not rotating. Useful sources of information can be found on robot web sites & of course YouTube. Hope this doesn't confuse & in the meantime carry on with the excellent work! Regards, Row Edited March 19, 2014 by Twister Quote 1:28 Scale J class yacht 'Enterprise' (R/C) Build log currently at: http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/showthread.php?6264-1-28-J-Class-Enterprise-build-log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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