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Blue Ensign
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I do love the atmosphere you are achieving with your build Frank, great photos. Regards, B.E. -
hamilton, The drawings in the book are at different scales 1:96, 1:48 and 1:192 but no matter. all you need to do is multiply the sizes in the drawings by say 96 and divide by 100 and you will have the measurement relevant to your build, that is supposing the kit is a true 1:100 scale. I wouldn't worry about the rigging at this point; the sizes of all the rigging lines are given in the book in inches circumference which is the norm. To convert say the Main stay which is 101/2" circ. to mm diameter which is the norm for scale line the calculation is:- 10.5" circ divided by 3.142 = 3.342"(dia) x 25.4 = 84.88mm (dia) divided by 100 (your scale) = 0.85mm diameter line (or nearest) Similarly the six pounder guns carried by Blandford are listed as being 7' 6" long, so at your scale that is 90" x 25.4 = 2286mm divided by 100 = 22.86mm long. I think the Blandford book will contain all you need to improve your kit. Hope this helps. Cheers, B.E.
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Hello hamilton, Peter Goodwin does include staysails, and studding sails in the drawings, and he also shows pins in racks attached to the Mizen shrouds,(ok for the period - also indicated by James Lees)) and three pins shown fitted horizontally to a vertical rack attached to the Mizen mast. there are no pins in the cross pieces to the bitts. B.E.
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The more I see of your work Augie the more I like it, Syren is a hugely attractive model. Regards, B.E.
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Sounds like an interesting project. You might find some useful information on traditional wooden boat building in this video. Reference to it was made by a member on the old MSW. If you are in the UK, a visit to Bucklers Hard may provide you with interesting background. http://www.bucklershard.co.uk/ B.E.
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Hammocks were washed in the British Navy, Captains issued orders when and where to be aired to dry on their particular ships. Brian Lavery in his Arming and fitting book devotes a chapter to Hammocks. B.E.
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Don't know how authentic it is Daniel, but here's how the hammocks are stored on the Trimcomalee in low cranes. Also regarding your associated query about access to the shrouds.. It doesn't look that difficult for fit young guys, at least on a Frigate. Regarding the tarring of the canvas covers, I believe this was the case in the early period of use but due to complaints about the stuff getting on the Hammocks and cases the practice was dropped. According to Carr-Laughton the Theseus at the Nile had her hammock cloths painted to represent an additional deck of guns, and he also refers to the Cambridge of 1824 as certainly having this arrangement. He also mentions that perhaps Victory when commissioned in 1803 had gunport painted cloths. Along the waist perhaps as suggested by this Constable sketch drawn of her in the Medway. M
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Shrouds, hammock cranes and how to climb up
Blue Ensign replied to dafi's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I can see the logic of your argument Daniel but such items are not included by Steel as 'Necessary Ropes' yet he mentions Entering ropes and stern ladders. Although I have seen Jacobs ladders rigged on contemporary models, I've not seen those shroud ladders rigged on British ships at least. Perhaps British Tars were more agile than you imagine M. -
I think you'll find that book very useful Hamilton, loads of clear drawings of fittings as well as rigging, and there are rigging size tables included. Cheers, B.E.
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Looks much better Peter B.E.
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Hi Hamilton, the brass etched sets for all their models are available separately, but should be included with the kits to which they relate. The blurb does make reference to etched brass chainplate assemblies with strops, shroud cleats, trucks, stunsail yard brackets as being with the kit. If you want to put your mind at rest drop an email to Jokita:- http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Profile.htm#Contact Cheers, B.E.
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Nice progress Peter, a good idea about the boomkins, they won't be needed until you rig the Fore tacks. Regards, B.E.
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Sorry Robert, a senior moment, I knew who I meant.... I think Yes it surely was you. B.E.
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Great close-up shots of your deck planking Jason, love your work on the hooded planks and scarphs. Cheers, B.E.
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For those who may not wish to go to the trouble of making their own serving machines there is one available from Shipahoy Models based in Boston USA. I came across the link on the old MSW. Here are the contact details. Robert Prezioso shipahoymodels@yahoo.com B.E.
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Hate to say this Dave, but I think you've got the stocks on upside down. B.E.
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Hi Martin, how the Euphroe block is attached to its related tackle is also covered by David Antscherl in Volume 1V on page 66 and there is a photo on page 67. The Euphroe is tensioned on the stay by use of a tackle with two single blocks. The upper block is stropped around the Euphroe, and the lower tackle block is seized to the stay. The standing part of the tackle falls was made fast to the Upper block; the running part after reeving thro' both blocks was either hitched to the stay below the lower block or made fast around the tackle. When the lower block is attached to the stay which should be around six scale feet below the mouse (Antscherl) it is a good idea to only temporarily fix it to allow for adjustment of proper tension of the tackle once the crowsfeet have been rigged. On a ship the size of Pegasus the crowsfeet would be of 3/4" circumference line equivalent to 0.1mm diameter line at scale. B.E.
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For my model I wanted to achieve that mellow golden look between the wales that is representative of ‘bright’ sides ie payed with rosin, as seen in many marine paintings contemporary to the period. After some trialling I decided upon Humbrol Matt Cream (103) as the base coat. Once dry I coated it with white shellac, which dries very quickly, and then over-painted with mellow pine wood dye. This may seem a little unorthodox to many model painters, but I obviously tried out the operation on a spare plastic hull before committing to the real thing. I then couldn’t resist fiddling some more with the broadsides, and over-washed with artists oils of ochre toned with raw umber. I think the same effect would have been achieved using just the Humbol oil paint as the base coat and over washed with artists oils. What type of paint did you use before applying the oil wash, are you mixing water based and oil based products? Cheers, B.E.
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Hi Pat, I think there was more than a touch of artistic licence taken in portraying some of those below decks scenes, and some of the deck heights are very suspect. The differences in below deck space between say Victory of 1765, and Warrior of 1860 are quite marked, it's very interesting to do back to back tours of both ships, and see the advances made in living conditions between the two eras. B.E.
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Hi Mark, I was alerted to your build by your question on rigging, your craftsmanship and artistry are of the highest order. Bellona is a beautiful ship and you are building a wonderful model of her, a pleasure to see. Regards, B.E.
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Backstays, Breast Backstays, and Running Backstays
Blue Ensign replied to SJSoane's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hello Mark, Lees refers to the Breast B/S set up in the usual fashion ie with deadeyes, but considers that very few English ships carried them, basing his view on having found only two contemporary models of ships of 1719 and 1733 fitted with them, and then presumably a model circa 1839 also with them. Lees differentiates between a Breast b/s and a running breast b/s which is set up with the tackle on the channels.It may be that by the time Steel was writing, breast backstay (with tackles) was the norm as the other form had not been in use for many years and there was no need to specify between the two. In the AotS book Bellona by Brian lavery he shows 3pr of standing b/s on the Fore topmast and what he also calls a Fore Breast b/s having the tackle and falls set up. He shows on the main topmast in addition to the three pr of standing b/s a shifting b/s, something Lees says were not generally seen. A breast b/s is not shown on the main Topmast. Longridge writing about rigging his model of Victory decribes three forms of topmast b/s, standing, breast and shifting and he includes all three on his model on the fore and Main topmasts. Personally if I were rigging Bellona I would include the 3 standing pair, and the breast b/s (with tackles) on both Fore and Main Topmasts. B.E. -
That's a nice model Bob, of an unusual subject, well executed, I like the look of her. B.E.
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Hi Tony, Lees gives a good explanation of rigging crowsfeet in his book. It was a continuous line. The rope was spliced around the strop of the Euphroe block, its other end reeving thro' the centre hole in the rim of the top from above, up thro' the next hole to port, thro' the upper hole of the Euphroe block, up thro' the inner starboard hole in the top, and so on until the line finally came out of the outer hole on the starboard side of the top. There it was hitched to the underpart of the previous lead thro' the top. B.E.
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Using Blacken-IT
Blue Ensign replied to fnkershner's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
That particular gun is pictured just as blackened, the photo above gives a better idea of the finish. Gun 2 is the result having been just hand buffed with a soft cloth. B.E. -
Using Blacken-IT
Blue Ensign replied to fnkershner's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Thank you Floyd Hi Augie, I hand paint the varnish on the guns using a very light touch. If you've got the equipment an air brush would probably be better. I did quite a few trials before I came up with the finish I was happy with. These are the various trial stages I went thro’. 1) Basic blackened gun (paler than in reality) 2) Gun buffed up – not a displeasing result, metallic in appearance but lacks a depth of colour. 3) The gun coated with Carr’s Electroflux, a clear lacquer which is supposed to prevent metal black patinas from being rubbed away. The result too shiny for my taste. 4) Gun coated with Humbrol mattcote; again no disturbance to the surface in application and a deep black matt finish resulting. I had originally tried Admiralty matt varnish but being of a milky tone on application it was difficult to gauge the evenness of the coat, so the mattcote was the option I decided upon. I should add perhaps that when I added the GR ciphers to the guns there was an inevitable overspill of ca which needed an acetone scrub. The contamination can be seen here after the first solution dip Cleaning and re-dipping resolved the problem. Once blackened I use surgical gloves to handle, and handle as little as possible. B.E.
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