Blue Ensign

Hi Jason that looks excellent, I used a small bulldog clip along the bottom of the keel/rudder to hold the rudder firm whilst I worked on it, fitting the tiller etc; Do the Jotika instructions include any reference to the fitting of rudder chains/pendants? they would usually connect to what is called a spectacle plate fixed just below the hancing on the rudder. B.E.

Hi Frank I think you've really nailed the look of a hard worked vessel and I think you have got the colouring/weathering of the sails just fine. I like the look of her. B.E.

Hello Ian, it may be that swivels were not fitted in that location, do you have a particular class of Frigate in mind. The usual indication of a swivel gun is the stock into which it fitted. there were usually more stocks than swivel guns carried. The only contemporary model with a beakhead bulkhead I have seen with swivel stocks is of a sixth rate 24 gun ship cica 1740. this had stocks for swivels on the foc'sle (two each side) the foremost one aft of the cathead. B.E.

Hi Mike, one of the reasons is that sanding sometimes smears the caulking whereas scraping does not; I always scrape decks. I use an old plane blade out of bullnose plane, but hobby knife chisel blades are good for tight areas. Generally I use the widest blade I can to cover the deck area to reduce the possibility of digging into the deck. Cheers, B.E.

Cheers Steve, I'm glad you like it. The Heller Le Superbe/Glorieux are the only game in town if a medium sized plastic Seventy -four model is wanted. At least it can be fully rigged and displayed without the where are you going to put that ! comment from the Domestic Goddess B.E.

Hi Jay, the leech lines also come across the front of the sail. Don't know if it will be of any help to you but this is a sail rigging plan I prepared when building my heller Seventy-four. This is the fore sail, not as fully detailed as the topsails as it was eventually clewed up. B.E.

Hi Jason, that's an interesting question. The authentic way varied depending on the purpose of the block, but for attaching to an eyebolt the strop of the block would be seized to the eyebolt, but at model scale this can produce a too heavy look in my opinion. At the scales I usually work at my approach has been to produce a knot as small and neat as possible, and without much regard to authenticity. I have taken the view that an unobtrusive knot is better than an over scale authentic one. On Pegasus I resolved to do better but I have only really rigged the tiller lines so far and I used a false splice method originally explained by Gil Middleton in his Victory build, and also used by Dafi, he did a post on it in the masting and rigging section. Apart from the jeer blocks most of the rigging blocks on Pegasus are of 2mm or 3mm size quite small to replicate the strop and seizing in a truly authentic way without the line overpowering the block. As we have lost all the previous discussion items on the subject, I too would be interested to see how others have tackled the isue, particularly at 1:64 scale. Cheers, B.E.

Thank you Augie for your kind words, the log wasn't there to be aware of until last week as it wasn't on the old MSW. I posted it here from my original forum to bulk up the depleted content on new MSW and add to the range of kits covered. I also repeated my current Pegasus build which I will continue to update now in 'real time' Cheers, B.E

Hi Augie, I seem to have missed your log the first time around, a fine looking kit and a fine looking build. Nice work. B.E.

Thank you all so much for your uplifting comments, I'm glad so many fellow ship modellers have found my build enjoyable and informative. It has made my effort in repeating the log on MSW worthwhile. Regards, B.E.

A magnificent build Gil that I followed on the old MSW. I am pleased to see it back. Your Victory is an inspiration to all builders and I have benefitted greatly from your approach to various aspects of the build. Your false splice is one that comes to mind. Regards, B.E.

Splendid work Jan, I love the sheer lines on that model. B.E.

What a fascinating build Foremast, I love the quality of your deck planking and use of hooded planks around the margins. What reference did you use for your decking plan or did you devise it yourself? I don't think I've seen that method of caulking before, looks very scary, but the result is great. Regards, B.E.

I'm rather with Greg on this one, and prefer the bare stick look on stand displayed models, and there is a great precedence for this with contemporary models of the eighteenth century. A ship in harbour for any length of time would have the sails taken down so it's not inconsistent to display a model 'bare stick' The problem with kit provided sails is that the material is mostly way over scale and lacks the detail that sails should properly have such as the reinforced areas. Out of scale stitching and poor reef points can further detract from the overall look. On the other hand fitting sails does allow the modeller to show the function of the running rigging and I do like to see sails on waterline models in a diorama setting, but that's the only situation I would personally fit them. In the end tho' it's all down to personal preference and what individual modellers like. B.E.

Hi JP that effect don't look too bad, I tend to stay away from stains on softwoods because of the uneven finish due to differences in the grain texture. I prefer to use water based varnishes which I can alter in shade by adding water based paints. I find it is not always necessary to use a sanding sealer with varnish, and two or three coats rubbed down inbetween give a fairly even finish. Clear or medium oak varnishes are my particular choice with adde ochre where I want to replicate say a boxwood finish. Cheers, B.E.

Sounds like you could do with a good book on masting and rigging,what ship are you modelling? One on line reference you may find of use is this. http://hnsa.org/doc/steel/index.htm This is the contemporary work by Steel on the subject of masting and rigging, which is the basis of most of the modern works on the subject. Cheers, B.E.

Hi Dancat, The blocks you refer to are the lead blocks for the Buntlines and Leechlines. The configuration can vary slightly from ship to ship but there were usually two pair each side one pair forward and one pair to the rear. The strops of these blocks passed thro' holes in the top and were secured by toggles. B.E.

This is an important and wonderful build Gary, and I'm glad to see it back. Regards, B.E.

It's great to see this pretty little cutter again, marvellous work at only 1:96 scale. Although mourning the loss of all the real time logs, in a funny sort of way it's nice to see a clear run of construction photos from frame to ready for masting. Thanks John, nice to see her again. B.E.

Continuing... She will now take her place in the Dining Room to compliment the Naval cutter model that I bashed quite some time ago. They are a good match I think, and more importantly have the full approval of Mrs W Specific reference works I have used during this build I list here. The Naval Cutter Alert - Peter Goodwin (Conway AotS series) The Global schooner - KH Mardquardt The Colonial Schooner - H. Hahn. Rigging Fore and Aft Craft - Lennarth Petersson News of Nelson John Lapenotiere's race from Trafalgar to London - Derek Allen and Peter Hore My thanks to all who have made such supportive comments on this log which I hope will provide a useful reference to those contemplating the build. Regards, B.E.

Completion Photos This post concludes my log of a nine month build. More to follow B.E.

The Ensign Staff and Ensign. The Ensign was printed on Modelspan tissue. The advantage of this method is that the exact required size of flag can be obtained with on the model trialling until a size that pleases the eye is found. A disadvantage of the method more specifically to the White Ensign is that the white background which of course is the basic paper colour does not show to the same advantage as the Red and Blue Ensigns. To address the problem I coated the modelspan with diluted white water based paint before printing the flag and then painted over the Union colours using again water based paints. I find that Chisel edged brushes are the best type to use for this action. The modelspan is only coated on one side prior to printing because I found that coating both sides didn’t allow the printer ink to penetrate sufficiently thro’ to the other side. Fixed to the flagstaff the ensign was then subjected to a little steam and was teased into shape using rods of differing thicknesses to hold the flag in a drooping attitude. Matt varnish was then sprayed onto the flag to hold it in position, very light coats are required lest the colours run. The same method was used for the Union Flag at the Jackstaff; the staff itself was made from micro bore brass tubing with a styrene truck, thro’ which holes were drilled to take the Halyard. When I set the Union flag on the jackstaff I hadn't noticed that it was upside down, but fortunately my friend Pete Coleman on his forum where this log was originally posted pointed this out and saved me from further embarrassment. Flying the ensign upside down is a distress signal. The matter was rectified. A brass fret strip was used to make the tabernacle and the assembly was fixed to the aft face of the bowsprit cap using ca. B.E

A few odds and ends Rudder coat and pendants. I usually make rudder coats out of micro-porus tape as it has a sort of canvas finish to it and has the added advantage of a sticky back. Rudder coats are a sort of bell shape in plan but cutting a pattern for a particular ship is a matter of trial and error. There should be an element of ‘bag’ in the coat to allow free movement of the rudder This is difficult to achieve without padding out the interior, I use a little cotton wool off a cotton bud for this purpose. After this it is just a matter of teasing it into shape around the transom and rudder. The canvas was tarred to waterproof it as much as possible and I have represented this with a black grey finish. The Rudder pendants Evidence is that even smallish vessels like Pickle would have had some system for retaining the rudder after all loss of rudder was no small matter. I could not find any detailed information exactly how the pendants and chains would have been fitted on Pickle; similar smallish vessels are shown with the pendants taken up over the transom and secured to cleats on the inside. This method would foul the stern gunports in the case of Pickle. I fitted chains to eyebolts secured in the rudder and to eyebolts in the lower transom, and contented myself with this arrangement for the present. Anchor buoys These too are an essential part of a ships equipment, they need to be clearly seen on the water, and the standard size is 54”x 30” with something in excess of 100’ of line.(475mm) Smaller vessels such as Pickle would have had a smaller version and I scaled mine down to 36” x 20” I made an egg shaped core from the cone shaped tips of two cheap bic prop pencils and planked these with styrene strip. With the addition of eyebolts either end and 0.25mm line to form the slings and hoops and the job’s done. I don’t normally adhere to scale lengths of line but in this case I have measured out 18 fathoms of line (scale of course) to coil on the shrouds. Nearly there

Cheers Chris Anchors A white metal anchor is provided with the Pickle kit to be fitted on the Starboard side. I was a little puzzled by this as my research suggested that she should have at least three, two bowers of 6cwt plus a smaller kedge. I bought a second matching anchor plus a kedge. The observant may have noticed the absence of catheads on Pickle, something that puzzled me somewhat. In my research I discovered that it is entirely possible that catheads were not fitted given the relatively light weight of the anchors, and that a Fish tackle from the Masthead was used to raise the anchor. I may still yet fit one of these to demonstrate the principle. The stocks of the anchors required some fettlin’ to obtain the correct shape and I wasn’t happy with the given dimensions of the anchor rings. The ends of the anchor stocks have been rounded off in accordance with practice of the time. The use of an inside clinch to secure the anchor cable can be seen here. I was tempted to use a Fishermans Bend, an interesting knot, which was sometimes used on smaller anchors, but decided in the end to stick with the clinch. Jotika suggest that wire is wrapped around a 6mm dia dowel to produce the rings, but this looked out of scale to my eye. As with everything naval, anchor proportions were subject to specific rules, the ring diameter on small anchors is something in the order of 1/8th of the length of the shank. This is 33.15mm so the anchor ring should be in the order of 4mm. After clean up the anchors were painted with humbrol iron grey rather than black, gave a better scale effect I thought. For the iron stock bands Jotika suggest using strips of black cartridge paper,I preferred to use the brass etched framing from their eyelets as the banding. 1.3mm line is supplied for the anchor cable; I checked this against known formulae - ½” circumference of line for every foot of maximum hull width. This did indeed work out at 1.3mm Ø line – well done Jotika. The anchor cable however is far too white for my taste ; I rather thought it would have a sort of greyish appearance so I soaked it in ‘dirty’ water to dull it down. The anchor is secured to eyebolts fixed atop the rail with thread. I wasn’t sure about the authenticity of this so I modified the lashing using 23 links to the inch chain to secure the one fastening with chain secured with a rope lashing to a ring bolt in the deck. The second lashing was line secured around the capping rail eyebolt. The effect I was after with the anchors was a slightly worn/weathered appearance, and to this end I am satisfied with the result. The Kedge This is lashed to the Starboard aft bulwark on the Naval Museum model, Jotika did not include one with their kit. No historical evidence for it but I rather fancied securing it to aft face of the skylight, seemed a reasonable place to store it. B.E.

Launch cont'd Jotika only provide two half chocks to support the boat, the inference being that the boat is supported on the starboard side by the Pickle’s bulwark. This seemed odd to me so I fashioned a pair of full chocks on which to rest the Launch. Having spent a fair bit of time making the bally boat, I’m now not sure I like it - hmmn I think I will have to ponder on that. I certainly think I will only display one boat on the deck even if I decide to go ahead. The kit arrangement. How would they manhandle a boat of that size outboard given the rigging incumbrances. I've a fair idea of how the boats were swung in and out, using a triatic stay slung between the two mast pendants, with tackles attached to ring bolts within the boat to raise it above the bulwarks, further tackles slung from the yardarm, and probably the Fore gaff, to swing it out. Can you imagine how tricky that could be with an overlarge ships boat, keeping it steady to avoid crashing into the rigging, or worse the masts, she would have to hove to in any case to launch a boat, but in anything other than a millpond sea, she would still be rolling and pitching to varying degrees. I really wanted to display a boat on the deck, maybe a replacement cutter of slightly less size, and some modifications learned from the building of the Launch. The 14’ Cutter This is not a bad shape and at least I know it will fit on the deck without giving the impression of trying to squeeze a quart into a pint pot. I took a different approach with the Jolly boat. Exterior planking was done clinker fashion using strips from computer label paper. I decided that planking the inside of the hull was a waste of time as the planks were hardly visible on the larger boat when finished, and they just add to the thickness of the gunwales. On this boat I used styrene strip of 0.5 x 1.5mm for the ribs and keelson, 0.5 x 2 mm for the rising plank. The gunnels I made from 0.75mmx1.5mm styrene strip. Small boats are tricky to hold whilst working, but a cut out in a block of balsa goes a long way to keep it steady. To avoid unnecessary thickness I left the ribs long so that they would support the thin gunnels. Basic internal structure completed, paper patterns for the foredeck and stern sheet gratings Jotika suggest that there were no bottom boards or knees, but I have modified the interior to reflect the drawings in the McGowan Victory book, and other reference sources. Bottom boards have been fitted, a grating in the stern sheets, and a small foredeck at the bow. The gratings which are nice features in small boats were left over from the main build but necessitated taking down to a fraction of their original thickness to suit. Boxwood strip was used for the thwarts and ring bolts fitted at the bow and stern. Modified chocks. In keeping with the muted colours of the main model I decided to colour the oars in a natural wood finish, white looked too stark to my eye, and there is no white anywhere else on the vessel. She certainly looks more in scale to the size of Pickle, so the 19’ launch will not be displayed on the model. B.E.