Landlubber Mike
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Everything posted by Landlubber Mike
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Putting aside the cost and dust issues, I haven't found ebony to be that hard to work with. It cuts very well and cleanly, sands nicely, takes glue just fine (I use Gorilla brand wood glue, which I've used on all my models, and all different kinds of woods), and can be bent with soaking and heat if you are patient. Take a look at my Morgan build log and you can see the kind of work that can be done with ebony. It's not as easy as let's say pear, but it looks much nicer than ebonized pear in my opinion. -
Gorgeous work, and I'm jealous of your outdoor surroundings! How do you like the serving machine? I've been thinking about getting one, even if to just strop blocks which was a painful endeavor on my Badger using "helping hands" and other gizmos.
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Eddie, try this vendor - he was very great to work with to buy custom sized ebony for my Morgan build. Not sure how shipping will work out as I see you're in Australia, but hopefully he can be a resource if you're not finding anything local. www.inlaybanding.com
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Thanks very much Robert for the kind words. It is nice to be able to contribute at least in a small way after the immense help I've received on here. Welfack, I totally agree with the Harland book. It was a critical resource for me in learning out how sails were furled, set, tacked, etc. The diagrams on how sails and the running rigging operated were very helpful. It definitely fills a unique niche in the ship modeling book space if you are interested in adding sails to your build.
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BE, really gorgeous work. Congratulations! This is the pinnacle and gold standard of Swan Class builds here. Thanks so much for sharing your journey with us, and for taking the time to share your techniques. Live the display play by the way - I wish I went with an acrylic case like you have on my Badger. Having wood molding for the panels distracts the eye from the model in my opinion.
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Looks like I had to go back in and change the display name from the login tag. Thanks for pointing that out!
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BE, let me add my voice to the loud chorus of people that appreciate all the time you have put into not only posting your very detailed build log -- one of the very best logs ever on MSW -- but also for reposting it twice! I have to say, you are a saint in being so patient and good hearted about all this. I have to confess that I don't think that I would do the same one time, let alone twice.
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Fantastic work Elijah, beautiful job! Looking forward to your next project.
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Coming along really nicely Joe. Great work on the decorative elements.
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Thanks Homer, really appreciate the kind words. I've made a little progress, planking the bulwarks with yellowheart. So far so good. I'm about to start planking the exterior hull with ebony, which should be interesting. Things have just been a little busy, and with the warm weather, I've been working on the yard and with other things. Will try to post an update soon
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Look to buy the mill and accessories on eBay - I saved quite a bit of money doing so. The Sherline products are really well made that used items still hold up very well generally.
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I started reading it, and am about a third of the way through. It's a very interesting book, I'd highly recommend it. It goes into a lot of aspects of ship dioramas, including sail construction and shape, making realistic looking sea, etc. Not sure that I'll ever do a diorama, but it's given me some things to think about when it comes to building my models.
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I've used their dyes and stains - very nice product. You can look through my logs for examples. Not sure that I've used their products on basswood, but have used it on a variety of woods.
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I agree with BE - the Syren guns look much better. Amati does such a nice job with the kit, it's a shame that they use out of scale guns. I replaced my cannons with ones from RB models which are pretty close to the Syren ones in size and shape.
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Really nice work Blighty. I just came back from Disneyworld, and they had a riverboat in the main park. Taking the ride and walking around made me appreciate these boats. Lots of really cool details to model!
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Nice work Paul, and welcome to the Swan Class brotherhood The Pegasus is a really wonderful kit as I'm sure you're finding. BE's log is the gold standard that we all follow. For my gunport patterns, I soaked and pinned only twice. I found that it reverted a lot after the first soaking. The key is just to relax the fibers and make sure that everything lines up properly. Spy has some really good notes and suggestions on placement - particularly regarding the jigsaw connection. I forget if it's forward or behind where the kit diagrams show it. Don't worry too because you can sand back the ply, and since the hull is double planked, you can use filler, etc. It's a pain, but not too bad in the end (the patterns do make things easier than had the kit required you to actually frame the bulwarks, which is what I'm going through on my Morgan). Just take your time and you'll be fine.
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Martin, looks fantastic. Very nice job! It's funny, when we work at such scales and post pictures, the rails look pretty wide. You have to step back and remember that these rails are only 2mm in width or less, and that people won't be looking at these details with a magnifying glass six inches away Love the mounts by the way - she's looking very imposing now
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Hey Thistle, you're not alone as I abandoned my Unicorn for similar reasons. You can certainly make a nice model from the kit, but once you start down the path of trying for historical accuracy, the kit will frustrate you to no end. Seems easier to build her from scratch than deal with the hull and other issues. Have you decided on a next build yet?
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Planking Clamp Use
Landlubber Mike replied to Worldway's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Personally, I don't use the Micromark screws to force the planks at all. I do a lot of soaking and pinning, and on my last build, spiling, to get the planks in a pre-formed positioned so that they don't have to be forced. I do think it's important to clamp the planks in position while they are glued to get a tight fit though, and this is where I think the Micromark screws as well as other screws, pins, etc., come in handy. -
Beautiful Joe. Something to add to the shopping list I had placed an order with Cornwall Model Boats a couple of years ago for some other stuff, and thought I would try out various wooden wheels from other manufacturers (the brass wheels are nice, but I'm not a fan of having to paint them). They all were too thick and out of scale. Chuck's looks like a great solution.
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I agree ofencer - I think the Ancre monographs cover the real La Renommee. When I look at Chapman's Venus and some of the Swedish models of ships at that time, this model seems to be a Swedish one. If that's the case, it's pretty cool in that there aren't too many Swedish ship models out there.
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Marc, thanks so much for looking in and the kind words. Even if the provenance of the kit is uncertain (my guess still is that it's a Swedish, and not a French, vessel and I'll probably build her as such), the subject is really beautiful and the Euromodel kit is absolutely fantastic from the detailed plans to the materials. The cast detail parts are very well done. Between being busy with work and working on items from my Morgan build, I haven't had a chance to spend much time on this kit. I'm still trying to come up with a plan on color scheme and the use of paints versus colored woods. In a way it would be nice to build a kit straight from the box since I'm already heavily kit bashing the Pegasus and Morgan. At the same time, I'm finding working with woods like ebony to not be so difficult, so perhaps a bit of kit bashing won't be that bad.
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Looks really great Don. The Stefano is a really nice size - looks like a fantastic kit that will be a lot of fun to build.
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Hey Pat, thanks for stopping by, happy to have you join us! Thanks Don. Have you done one before? I said I was going to put one together for my Pegasus and Morgan, and even had pre-sourced some nice flat MDF boards, but got lazy or wanted to work on the models and never got around to it. I would think they are pretty easy to put together too. Flattest place I can find in the house is my kitchen island of all things. Still, it's a pain to prop the model up with blocks and all that to get things square. Was a real pain this weekend in trying to see how the stern was shaping up, especially making sure that the corners where the main rail lines met were symmetrical.
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