Seventynet

Thanks for the likes and kind comments. I have decided to have a small update on my way to finishing second planking (below the wales anyway). It seems like a small step but in fact it has been a rather large effort getting this planking done. I'm going to take a bit of break before I post again. Happy New Year to you all! and it just never seems to end...

Medic, I think this is what a lot of people use: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_19?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=minwax+wipe-on+poly&sprefix=minwax+wipe-on+poly%2Caps%2C260 And it's oil-based.

Hi Medic, super planking job! I plan to use wipe on poly for my second planking. I have used hand pressure to hold down the planks until the PVA holds, except at extreme bend areas where I used elastic bands and erasers, and very occasionally screw clamps. I've haven't had a single plank pop over six months, so that's some proof that the technique works. Best, Ian

Very nice looking job Eric. I shall look forward to your next build! Best, Ian

Great Christmas gift Waspy. I'm excited to see another Victory builder on here. Best of luck with it. Ian PS, what scale is it?

Ken, I just found your log and read through it. That is a very cool project. I hope you don't mind if I dust off a seat and join you. Best, Ian

Great work as usual Heinz. I can't help being drawn to that beautiful planking and those perfectly cut wales. A merry Christmas to you and your family. Best, Ian

Truly remarkable job Mark, especially considering it's a single planking job! Wow! Let us know what you end up buffing it with please. Best, Ian

Sweet planking job! Nice and clean. Best, Ian

I am not sure I am using the right terms, but by banding I meant dividing the hull into several bands paralell to the first line of about 3 or 4 planks width per band. But it sounds like you have already rejected the need for that based on the limited number of planks above and below the line you have drawn. It's going to look great. I am following with anticipation. Ian

It's individual preference anyway. Will you be going with 20 foot planks or single planks? Individual planks are more time consuming but gives you more control, I think. Also, have you considered banding your hull? It takes additional time but let's you know if you are staying within your original predictions better. I am sure you've already thought of these things so forgive me if you've already rejected these ideas.

I think your first planking looks great. I notice on your hull that you apparently have the line curving upwards at the bow more than illustrated in the drawing. Maybe I am wrong but it seems to me that you will have quite an upward sweep at the bow - which is fine if that's what you want. Good luck Rick. Best, Ian

Beautiful beautiful! That paint job is also lovely!

Mike your gesture is amazing. I am sure the library will appreciate the sweat and love that you put into this beauty. I look forward to your next build! Best, Ian

Thanks for looking in and the likes and the compliments Mike and Dimitris. Should I be half as accomplished as any of you! I have to confess, I now feel like a serial edge bender. When I was initially reading up on this hobby I kept seeing the advice on how you should spile and minimize edge bending. And my experience in spiling the starboard side, notwithstanding the mismatching wood issue, was positive. But given my circumstances edge bending is a reality for the port side. So far I am amazed how well it's working. I have shown one picture of a plank to be edge bent against the adjacent planking to give you an idea of the bend. Of course I plane/sand/cut the bottom part of each end to the extent the narrowing plank trace allows - sort of a poor man's spile - then steam, clamp in place, remove, fine tune and then glue down. Anyway I haven't had to install a single drop plank at the bow and probably won't in contrast to the starboard side. How much of that is careful drafting of the bands or edge bending instead of spiling I don't know. Best, Ian

Thanks for the kind words Greg. I find slow and easy gets me where I want to go with this beast. BTW I've asked the admiral for the Cape Cod Catboat kit for Christmas. We'll see but I am feeling lucky so I might have a good distraction from the Vic early in the new year. Best, Ian ​

Looking good Marcus and thanks for the tutorial. I must say your pictures are very good quality. Best, Ian

I would just like to add that to slightly bevel, correct or level the edges of planks already laid, or remove hardened glue from same, I have found that a good quality riffler file is invaluable. Ian

Hello Rob, good to have you back - from your fellow Calgary Victory modeller! Everything's looking ship-shape. I'll be following along from now on. Best, Ian

Thanks Arthur. These are not available for shipping to Canada. However a little more searching on Lee Valley shows a curved and gooseneck scraper along with a burnishing tool: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,310,41070&p=32644. I can see how useful the gooseneck would be around the stern and stem.

Absolutely beautiful job Boyd. Please keep the pictures coming. Ian

Thank you so much Frank. Those scrapers look like the ticket and part of an overall Christmas wish list at Lee Valley! Best, Ian

Thanks for sharing your beautiful work! Ian

Nice planking job Rick.

Good day edge benders, For what it's worth I thought I'd post a technique I've been using for quite a while now as I work through the second planking on my Vic. The reason it may be useful for CC builders is that unless you have elected to source different wood for your second planking with options for wider stock from which to spile from (and you're not going to copper) you will need to practice edge bending. I have been successful using the following technique (note I am not concerned at this particular juncture with using 85 mm planks because this part will be covered by the lower wales): 1. mark the required plank taper on the hull 2. transfer the taper measurements to the plank 3. plane and sand the plank to those measurements 4. soak the plank for 1/2 hour 5. cellophane the area where the wet plank will be bent on (cellophane because the wet plank will mobilize the glue from the adjacent plank (etc.) so it won't stick and pull fibres and just generally make a mess 6. clamp the piece using elastic bands and cut up erasers - ensuring that the top edges that otherwise want to lift up from the edge bend are pressed down 7. let dry 8. glue plank on the bare wood using the same clamping system. The key thing is the use of elastics (wear eye protection) and erasers. Both of these things allow you to minutely adjust the pressure points and the erasers have the added benefit of sticking or holding the piece in place. While you cannot tell in the picture, this bend is not a simple one plane bend - hence the need for a slight edge bend here. You will see that my first planking has a severe uplift near the bow. That's where the planks want to go without spiling. So that's also an option with the second planking. But if you want to simulate a more lateral orientation you need to spile and edge bend (or just spile if you have the stock). Sorry for the length of this post. Hope some may find this to be useful.