Chuck

24 gauge

They are for the jig....They are a little big though

Yupp...thats the stuff.  But you can use any color that you like and any brand.  I like what you used.  I think it looks great.

Chuck

If you line out the hull with tick marks for the planking,  you can determine the width of each strake at each bulkhead.  What I like to do but couldnt in the kit instructions,  (pre milled strips and all) would be to place the first sheer strake into position.  Then line off the hull from the bottom of the shear strake to the keel NOT INCLUDING THE GARBOARD.  After you line off the hull it will reveal the shape of the garboard....this can be cut and positioned early so that you will have a consistent remaining space to plank.  Planking the garboard early allows you the opportunity to see the negative unplanked space remaining and see how that space runs bow to stern.   If you see that negative space getting too wide or too narrow in places...it probably means your garboard is shaped incorrectly.  By lining off the hull you can also avoid any guesswork.

See Bob's build log.   I would do it exactly the same way...in fact this is exactly how I planked the hull except I do add the shear strake first.  It strengthens the hull and allows me to create the shear curve I want before lining off the rest of the hull.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2

Chuck

You can carefully scrape it away with various sharp razors or hobby blades. Just dont use the points.  Use the edge of the blade.   Light passes with the blade at an angle.  The different shaped blades help you get in all of the crannies.

Splendid......very well done.  I love the quality of your figure.   

Chuck

Looking really fine.   Clean and crisp work.

Chuck

I know how it feels to hit the shop after a long absence.  Well done and try to sneak a few more sessions soon.  Its good for the soul!!!

Been a while since I checked in on your Essex.  Its looking A-Ok Bob.  Framing those decks is a lot of fun...

I am looking at those images though and have a question,  did you give the quarter deck beams and forecastle deck beams a camber?  I remember when I started building her many moons ago..The decks had quite a bit of camber from what I remembered, its hard to tell from the photos but they look flat or is it just an optical illusion?   With no camber the fittings along the center of the gun deck might look very tall.  I am wondering if the absence of camber is what I am seeing.

Sam sure did add a lot of nice detail to those deck fittings.  At that scale is great to see a kit show them all.  They look great Bob,  you are almost done for crying out loud....you work quick.

Chuck

Nope....no good.....your piece is not oriented properly with the grain.  That is why they break...rotate so the part of the stem that sticks up and always breaks is going along with the grain....rather than across it.  This is super important and you should always keep teh grain direction in mind when posiitioning your templates.

1 3/8" I believe but I will have to double check.   I dont have my model here and I know I forgot to add that to the plans.....between 5 and 6 feet is OK.

Chuck

You dont have a twist....You just have to shift those port or starboard to line them up.   Thats why I made them tight.   I used titebond because it has a lot of open time.  Then I tapped/pushed one side or the other to align each bulkhead one at a time.  I looked at them from the angles you posted as well as port and starboard.   Tweaking the positions until they were aligned.  I wouldnt glue in any spacers until all of the bulkheads are in position and dried.   That is probably helping the mis alignment issue.   No pins or other aparatus are needed.  Just start mid ship and work your way towards the stern...then flip around and finish it towards the bow.   Aligning each as you go.  Wait for the previous one to cure pretty good before you do the next one.

Chuck

Congratulations....well deserved.

I just thought I was going crazy while looking at the mayflower......good to get that clarified.

Chuck

Dave which kit is that?   Should I move it to the kit build area?   I see many instances where it doesnt follow my plans as far as I can see.  I also see laser cut parts in there.  Did you start with a kit by one of the European makers?

Chuck

Its what it says on the box and plans...

5./32" scale.

Just jump in!!!!!  The water is just fine.  If you break something,  Expo will replace it.  Theres no substitute for getting a feel for it without over thinking it.  Thinking about it too much leads to ship model paralysis.

Chuck

That is correct.

Bulkhead thinning...yes I know it is awful....but take your time.   Its really important to the overall look of the model.

Beautiful progress Augie!!!

Chuck

Probably overkill....but yes you need to do teh math and increase the thickness by 33.3%

Chuck

Its just another way....There are many techniques out there and you must find the one you are most comfortable with.  Those that say you should never do this or that.....well,  they are just partial to one method over another.  You could spile and cut the shape or try something else.  As long as the run of the strakes are proper....it doesnt matter.  The proof is in the pudding so to speak.

Looking good do far...enjoy the kit.

Chuck

It wont hurt anything.  I do it all the time.   Its coming out just great so far.  Well done!!!

Any and all kits from ZHL are banned as long as they keep pirating kits from other manufacturers.  They are not reputable as a company.

Chuck

That is coming along very well.  You will soon be caught up with me!!!!

That looks fantastic...It looks like you spent all day painted those friezes.