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Posts posted by Chuck
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Depending on what they need to be used for.....you can take some thin gauge wire and fold it in half around a drill bit the correct diameter. Then twist the two tail ends together many times which will tighten up the eye and make a screw-like pin. Slip it off the bit when you are done. The screw like tail will really hold when glued into a pre-drilled hole. There will not be any chance you could easily remove it. If you use stell wire you can get really thin stuff and make eyebolts with crazy small eyes. No monkeying around with pliers needed.
Chuck
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Very nice work. That is really coming together well. I hope to see in person at a club meeting. Good stuff.
Chuck
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Nicely done!! The cables do look a bit heavy but that is an easy fix.
Chuck
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That is looking just fantastic Rusty.
Chuck
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Looks nicely done!!!
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You know where to find me.....3/16" is Ok but its a little wide for the brig. For a brig of this time period, 10" would be ideal. The problem with the kit is that 5/32" wide strips are not common so I had to use the smaller strips. Also with 3/16" strips you may run into problems with bending edgewise. If you are milling your own strips or spiling from wider sheets you shouldnt have an issue with 5/32" being the most accurate. That being said...it will certainly change any planking directives I may have used in the instructions. As far as the nail size...go the smallest you can find. At this scale you would need to use hypodermic needles that are very small to be in scale. They would be small 1/2" nail heads or therabouts. Th eprimary sources on that are scarce to be honest and that is my own best guess.
Chuck
- Jack12477, STSCM and fnkershner
- 3
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Just updated the Book Reviews section of the NRG site.....now eight new reviews for you to check out
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That looks so well done. Congrats!!! I do hope you enjoyed the project from start to finish. Cant wait to see the Syren start taking shape.
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Now that I see it at that angle...its still tough to be sure. But eaxamine the curve of that lower counter as it should mimic the bottom of the transom. The upper counter should be a consistant width when done. One thing I notice is that most folks dont create enough of a curve on the top of the lower counter. It should be curved as such to make the upper counter consistent in height. One way to check this is to place a copy of the transom from the plans....with all the carvings etc. Attach it to the stern frames so you can better see that curve at the top edge of what will become the upper counter.
This will than leave an area between the lower counter and the transom for you to examine. It should be the same height and have a consistent curve to it to match that template.
Hope that makes sense. I placed some green lines on your image to show the curve I think it should look like.
Chuck
- fnkershner, augie, mtaylor and 4 others
- 7
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Looks good. Make sure you sand the tops of the sills for the stern windows level. They shouldn't slope down or up....flat and level. Otherwise the model is looking really good. Wonderful work. Try not to rush through the planking. I know that is going to be tough because mid way through...you will want it to be done. Two-thirds done and you will starting mumbling all sorts of things.
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Heres a nice review for folks.......
Scratch Building the Yacht
Utrecht
Instructions and Plans by
Gilbert McArdle
Distributed by: Sea Watch Books, LLC, Florence, Oregon
www.seawatchbooks.com, seawatchbooks@gmail.com
There is no doubt that Gilbert McArdle has become one of the authorities of our time on the construction of models representing Seventeenth and early Eighteenth Century vessels. Mr. McArdle’s latest book outlines the ...........
Open the PDF below to read the full two page review. It really gives you a thorough description if you are considering the project!!
Chuck
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Folks have added additional steps to help reduce the surface texture. It will be a few more years I suspect.
Check out this article.
http://www.kraftwurx.com/forum/25-how-to/572-smoothing-3d-printed-models
Chuck
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I have seen better although they are slightly larger....1:24 scale. But they are crazy expensive and I dont know what machine he uses
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Take a look at the build log underway for this and you will be able to tell. Its all scratch with no timbering sets.
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Yupp...something looks really off there. Either they printed your plans wrong or the templates are way off. They probably didnt set the page scaling to "none" when they printed them.
I would measure the scale bar on the plans. If that is correct then simply copy that and use it. This probabloy would mean that all of your templates are printed incorrectly. Send me a PM and I can email you a pdf of the templates. But just give me your email adress. I wont have time to send it until tomorrow though.
Chuck
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I had a great time....My wife and daughter did as well.
In that photo that was posted showing those 5 handsome fellows....
Ryland is on the left...I am next to him...(must cut back on the pasta)..then there is Barry, JimL , and TomR from my local New Jersey club. We really enjoyed it and I will be giving a short description of the conference at my club meeting tonight.
Getting in to see the Hunley was just fascinating. You really got up close to the tank she is still soaking in. The sub wll be in that bath for another ten years.
Chuck
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That doesnt seem right.....I would give them a call and ask for a new one...
Chuck
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Nope...we really dont have a timeline but I can tell you that the plans are all drafted and the model prototype is currently under construction. If you are are a member of the guild, we will be providing updates on teh status of these projects in the Journal and in the newsletter.
But we arent finished announcing our new programs yet. There is one more that we will be announcing very soon. So stay tuned. Greg Herbert is heading up teh other program so I will let him announce that one. The Board is very excited and passionate about the new direction the Guild is going in. Should anyone have a question, dont hesitate to ask me.
Chuck
- GLakie, hexnut, Keith Black and 5 others
- 8
Queen Anne's Revenge 1710 by shipmodel - FINISHED - 1/36 scale
in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Posted
Very nicely done. That top is looking good.
You work fast Dan. Hows the trigger finger?
Chuck