Chuck
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Everything posted by Chuck
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I almost forgot...Hard maple is a great alternative and it is much cheaper wood. I have tried it as an alternative and may possibly be offering them as a less expensive alternative to boxwood or pear at some point. Chuck -
What a fantastic mod to the box jig. That look incredible. Getting a drill press makes the whole process easier. The holes line up very easy and come out clean. Your blocks look really good. The slot depth is basically something you have to eyeball. Too deep and you will get some chipping on the mill. Too shallow and it wont look right. For my strop slot, I just make it visible. I go very shallow on it. As you can see, if you go deep on that the sheave holes will break the surface and leave a hole in the strop groove. It just takes some time experimenting and finding tolerances. Chuck
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Scratch building the Syren using the kit's plans
Chuck replied to rtropp's topic in Wood ship model kits
Go for it...That model was created for MSW before it was a Model Shipways kit. I designed it to be a great first scratch project and many of our members did just that. Have some fun and dont hesitate to ask me any questions. Chuck -
Gary The guns look good. I am glad the bigger size of blocks worked out for you. Your hooks look very nice as well. Good stuff.....as usual
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Excellent... As far as the windlass bars are concerned. This is a tricky subject as most of the info I have found is for a larger windlass on a schooner or sloop. But as you guys mentioned, I kept the bars to within 4-5 feet long. I made mine 1 1/8" long. Its just a guess seeing as I never found any actual primary documentation on it. But if you look at the images of the contemporary model I posted the kit was based on...the windlass bar looks to be about the same size. I used it as the basis to create mine. I think your windlass bars may be a bit long in comparison. Not much though. Chuck
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Yes indeed...I agree with Russ. You are doing very well with the kit. It looks great. Chuck
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No preference but the wider is more accurate. The odd size was not available to include in the kit. I could have made the thwarts 1/8" to match the material I had to work with, but instead I decided to keep the plan accurate to the original draft. Chuck
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Yupp...you should absolutely bevel the planks. Beveling is always required when planking a ships hull. The edges of each strake should be beveled to fit snug against the one already on the hull. Hope that helps. Chuck
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Lovely progress. Really nice!!!
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I id the whole model using yellow carpenter's glue...That is except for the planking. For teh planking I used CA. I was able to glue the plank across the first few bulkheads at the bow after pre-bending the strake. You should have to force it into position if the bend is close enough. Then I am able to slowly glue two or three bulkheads more as I work the plank towards the stern. The CA should hold the plank in the rabbet at the bow. If you add a drop of glue in the rabbet and the filler at the bow along with teh first bulkhead...that should do it. That is how I planked my Pinnace. Chuck
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US Brig Syren by Gahm - Model Shipways
Chuck replied to Gahm's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
That looks simply fantastic. -
You are very welcome. Please do let me know if something needs some clarification. I am here if you need me. Just shoot me a PM with pictures if possible too. Chuck
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
Chuck replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Glad to see you are OK. Take it easy. The workshop will be there in a few weeks. Rest up and heal. Chuck -
A fully Rigged Model Shipways Confederacy.......
Chuck replied to yvesvidal's topic in Wood ship model kits
That rigging plan has some serious errors. The masts and spar are Ok but Crothers arbitrarily added rails and other belaying points all over the place. The most obvious being the rail at the forecastle bow. I would take it with a serious grain of salt. Dave used it for the masts and spars but we talked about the rigging while he was doing it. There were plenty of weird things going on with the hull construction too if you examine the plans closely. I dont like to speak badly of others plans and research but a great deal of what he conjectured on those those plans is clearly a "hail-Mary" guess. Chuck -
At request of the family...we will close this topic. Rest in peace John. Chuck
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me too!!!
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What a great guy....He will be missed. RIP my friend!!! My sympathies to his daughter and family.
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Awesome paint work Dan.....just fantastic. Chuck
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It looks fantastic Mike. Your base is really spectacular as well. I like your treatment of it and may have to try and replicate it. I am glad you enjoyed the kit!!! Chuck
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That looks really fantastic. Very nice job on the hooks. That is certainly a good skill to develop as many people stuggle to make good looking hooks. You did a wonderful job of it. Chuck
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Looks great.....more picture please...and keep the progress posts coming. Chuck
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Robbyn....Thats Ok... In fact, when you fair the inside of the hull, take the keel down with it. Smooth it all out. Th eframes have to be very thin. At the sheer they are 1/16" thick or even less. At the keel it could be greater...but not much Chuck
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I just started building another pinnace model. Its the group project for my local club. Some are using basswood and others boxwood or pear. I am using all Holly. Its just an experiment. You never know how its going to look until you give it a try. So why not... Chuck
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I think it looks very good.
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Looks like a really good start. Have fun with it and dont hesitate to contact me if you have any questions. Chuck
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