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michael mott

NRG Member
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Everything posted by michael mott

  1. Agreed! but that shop wouldn't stand a chance in -30C single pane windows , no insulation in single plank walls, judging by the T shirt must be somewhere warm or summer ;>) Michael
  2. Thanks Druxey, I think that the tinkering is something that I caught a long time ago, but it has been strengthened by all the other great tinkerers that inhabit this most amazing forum. I think it (this forum) is what keeps me sane these days. Michael
  3. Hello Druxey, is is possible to show a picture of what you describe. I am having a difficult time visualizing it for some reason. I have a good quality set that I acquired many years ago, Sometimes I have noted a little creep when opening and closing them over a period of drawing. There are the register pins to reset them when closing but still it was annoying. Michael
  4. Ron the more I see of these small sanding tools and drums and the jigs set up to prepare the wood the more I am impressed by the thought and ingenuity that goes into them. making simple tools and jigs requires a good foundational knowledge of what one is doing. I like yours I shall make one for myself. working with the wood flat seems to be better somehow than vertical. Michael
  5. The cable looks great , what is the diameter and what threads did you use to make it? Michael
  6. Matt the figurehead looks beautiful, I like the finish that you have achieved. can you give us the formula or the proportions of how you prepare the finish wax? Michael
  7. Rusty the work so far is superb, had to laugh at the T shirt stories. I have found that an old worn out cotton bed sheet works very well and is also lint free. One sheet provides a lot of 12 inch squares of rag. no dangers involved in procurement either. Merry Christmas to you and family. Michael
  8. Great work on the treenailing Antony, The tulip wood deck looks very nice. Michael
  9. Great to see an update Mark, The gunports look nice and clean. Merry Christmas to you and family. Michael
  10. Tom with the small tubing if you file it while it is attached it is much easier to hold onto because you need to remove quite a lot of the tube to make it look like the picture you posted and if you cut them to length first you end up losing them either to the floor or to a snag while filing because there is so little tube left by the time you are done.. it also helps to have a small v groove in a block of hardwood for the filing. I will sort out a picture of what I am trying to describe. Michael
  11. Good morning Dan. excellent question, it has been something that I have been wondering about myself. I had asked Russ about the rails on his sloop and about the sorts of clearances needed to make things like rails and pins workable. when I did a Google search for fife rails they appear to be all over the map(both literally and figuratively)regarding heights and sizes. The top of the rail on mine is 9 inches above the deck and the pins are also 9 inches long, short perhaps for a ship but long enough I think for this size of boat she is basically 40 foot long, well 42 feet. My cap rail is only 8 inches above the deck as well. The other option is to redo the whole rail and make it higher, I wouldn't rule out that option either. Oh there are so many things that I will do differently on the next cutter well smack actually I want to do a working fishing boat based on the Gloucester fishing smacks. after the launch or when this cutter is finished. this is proving to be a very interesting learning curve. The more I learn the more I realize how little I know. Denis thanks for your encouragement. Michael
  12. Pete, Elia, Alan, Druxey, and Tim. Thanks for your kind remarks and encouragement. and all the likes Regarding the forward hatch and the dovetails, I might be confusing you or I am confused. The dovetails on the Cabin structure will remain as they are there will be no rounding. I was referring to the small Mahogany hatch forward of the fife rail. the corners on it were mitered and not dovetailed and it was already rounded, but it was taller and heavier looking. You have got me thinking now that I might have to build a new one out of pine with square corners that are dovetailed. Michael
  13. Grant just finished the entire build log so far, most impressive work. your work on the small boat was really fine workmanship I, would have no fingerprints left after that. After viewing all the block-work all I can say is that I am glad I only have one mast and a few blocks. Michael
  14. Grant just visited for the first time I think, your work on those details on the yard and mast are great, I like the comment about Longridge's drawing being made from your work and not the other way round. I have Longridge's book and have often thought that models of just those fold outs would make for some fun and interesting work. and you seem to have accomplished that. Much too small for me though. I would end up in a straight jacket. I will have to have a look through the rest of your build now. Michael
  15. Bedford, the epoxy really shows what a tight job you did on the planking. Michael
  16. Thanks John and Bob for stopping by. This evening I replaced the fife rail with a slightly longer one with shaped ends it is hard maple. The first rail And the new one The new one has a greater scope for operation. I have also begun shaping the forward hatch, it will have a pair of lights that will hinge up. Michael
  17. Elia what a grande job you are doing! your rework of the yellow cove looks superb The shot looking down on the deck is really neat. Nice work on the lettering. michael
  18. Tom those will look great.When you start your filing it works well to have piece of filler rod inside the tube you are filing. and do the filing before you cut it off the main stock. Ask me how I know. Michael
  19. First thank you all for your kind remarks, and all the likes. New Cockpit part 4 Regarding the deck oxidation at the moment there is no surface treatment on it it is just a scraped finish, so a final scraping before applying the teak oil should take care of it. I have begun gluing together the boards for the flat areas of the cockpit these have a micro bevel on all four edges this will need a little touching up before the final varnish. The corners have been rough sanded to shape now, when all the walls are complete and glued together I will make the cap by laminating a few .020" veneers together around formers for the corners when it is shaped and finished it will be stronger than a bent piece and will look like a solid piece. similar to this bent piece as part of a wicker seat which was made by bending a group of veneers around a stainless steel strip and gluing them. After they had set up they were removed from the strip then shaped with files and sanded. The next picture shows the top edge of the flat section. I will need to make a new grating for the floor or rework the edges with some new boards. Michael
  20. Floss part 5 While I am waiting for the photographs of the sister launch in Muskoka, I have been revisiting the lines drawing, Looking at a number of other lines drawing of various boats I think that I had made her a little too beamy so this is the begining of some new lines. compared to the original ones. I think the narrower lines are more graceful. it will be interesting to find out the actual beam when I hear from Roger, and see how close my guess is. Michael
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