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dgbot

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by dgbot

  1. What scale are you working in. I know a few modelers and miniturist who have used bamboo as it can be drawn very fine. David B
  2. I bought a Foredom years ago when the NRG held its' conference in Chicago. I have the motor flexshaft and the handpiece with the jacobs chuck. I found it different because the flexshaft but once I got use to it I would never give it up. It has power and speed that can be controlled. One of these days I might buy a recarchable dremel. But that can wait. David B
  3. Very few people forget that as you scale down the shading changes. I would call this the Grey affect. I am happy you took this into account. David B
  4. I like I like. Too bad I cannot take it out on the lake. David B
  5. Beautiful workmanship Nils. How many time did you have to take a "wet" of brandy before you were done? David B
  6. Many an alteration has hidded a mistake. Been there as well. Long before I joined a club I did a model of a Thames barge, not my greatest piece of work. All I remember was the bottom of the hull looked pretty bad. So I made a diorama and made it a waterline model. David B
  7. That is true. My grandfathers house was built with was was called yelllow pine. From what my brother in law said it was tough and wears like iron. He bought he pace when gramps retired and while going through one of the out buildings found several 2X4s left over from all those years ago. I salvaged them for his house in Raymond and the conrator offered to buy the stuff from him at a good price. From what Ed said yelow pine was some of the best wood out there for constuction but now it is almost non existant. David B
  8. Bob, you are doing wonders. Even though your model is from Japan it sort of reminds me of a model one of my club members did many years ago when I had a full head of hair and it was red instead of gray, and that was a crooked stern junk that plied the Yangzte in China. I cannot wait to see it finished keep up the great work. David B
  9. You are an artist. Repairing that kind of damage with no evidence is perfect. David B
  10. I have used Elmer and Titebond. With both I would spread the glue out. I never had any trouble. David B
  11. Nice look Nenad, I can sympathize on the flooding. We get it around here every so often. David B
  12. What kind of glue did you use? David B
  13. Thanks for the compliment. When I finish the model I am working on I plan on taking on the Maine by the firm in Germany. I do not remember there name and the moment but I believe I have learned enough to do it without any mistakes. There are all lot of parts and it was a care package from the clubs back in Chicago. David B
  14. Nice paint job Darrel, You are correct. A quality airbrush is usually the best way to go. I own a Badger 360. A bit of a learning curve but with practice you would be amazed at what you can do. Since I will not be touching mine this year I will have to practice when I get back home. I would fit the bow piece now and then work the rail into it. This id easier to me than the other. Smaller that can be easily relaced. etc. Looking good. David B
  15. Great technique, I did not think of that method as I never use fibergass cloth. Plus since the break was near the sheave hole my method would have removed a potiential weak spot. I just learned something new again. That is why this forum works. Just by reading the logs you learn different ways of doing things. David B
  16. Looking good Nils, When looking at your build one can appreciate how tight and uncomfortable the ships were. David B
  17. Bad luck but great that you were able to repair the damage. David B
  18. Rich, at that scale I would make a small jig. take a small strip of wood and mark out the distance you need. Then take to pins or brass nails and put them through the distance. The run it down the part as if you were using a compass. The points from the pins will make a small divit in the wood and act as a guide. David B
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