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Tigersteve

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Everything posted by Tigersteve

  1. Correct me if I’m wrong gentleman, but the grain in this photo should run in the other direction? Steve https://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_2018_01/20171228_180325.jpg.2211dd2e286b32fc2fe16e8817d037e5.jpg
  2. I decided to omit the cockpit trunk and installed seating as per the example I presented in an earlier post. I also completed the forward platform. Inboard planking is next. Steve
  3. Thanks guys. Yes, but the time consuming part was marking the correct spots and dry-fitting. Steve
  4. Instead of notching the thwarts to accept sections of the longboard, I decided to notch one long strip where the thwarts would be inserted. This resulted in a straight board. Something I was not able to achieve in earlier attempts. The board was clamped from underneath and marked before filing the notches. The thwarts were also notched to create a flush joining of the pieces. Lots of dry clamping before the final installation. I'm happy with the results and decided not to include the grooves for the sake of a crisp finish. I will have to remake the forward platform without the grooves. Steve
  5. Hi Oliver, I would seriously suggest ripping off those planks and doing some further reading on planking concepts. It looks like the step of "fairing" the hull has been skipped. You need to fair the hull so the planks lay against all bulkheads. I'm no expert by any means, but it's important to take your time and do some research before you get too far into the model. You will have a very difficult time otherwise. Here's one link from the forum: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf Steve
  6. Luckily I did another dry-fit before any gluing. Turns out there was an error in marking the longboard location on the thwarts. Either that or I misfiled the notches. I should be able to redo two of the four thwarts and be more on point. This particular modification with the longboard is tricky. A slight error becomes very obvious. This revision will take a while. I will post after all is installed. Steve
  7. The thwarts were recut and scrap wood was used to keep the proper spacing according to the plans. The grooves were made with a hand razor saw and miter box. After all thwarts were cut and placed, I used a scrap piece of the same width to mark the center lines for the longboard. The notches were filed last. Here's a photo after two coats of Wipe-on-Poly. I plan to glue all this together prior to installation. Steve
  8. Thanks everyone! I will remake some of the thwarts. Mike is correct. They should butt up against the frames. Installed the stern post, cockpit seats, and seat supports. Steve
  9. Thought I'd take a small break from painting to dry-fit all parts again. While there are several more coats that need to be applied, I believe it's getting closer to an acceptable finish. In this dry-fit I am looking at the thwarts and questioning if they butt up against the frames enough. I feel I may need to redo these so they butt up against the frames more. Any thoughts fellow Pinnace builders? Will this be a problem during inboard planking? Steve
  10. Volume 3 will be a good investment for many of us. I'm happy to purchase your book in support of your thorough research on this massive rig and to complete the set! Steve
  11. 1/16" x 1/32" maple strips were soaked in hot water for several minutes to create the curved base moulding around the supports. 1/8" x 1/32" maple strips were used for the vertical moulding. Some minor adjustments are needed before installation. Steve
  12. Wow and wow again! Steve
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