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Tigersteve

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Everything posted by Tigersteve

  1. I’m interested to see how you proceed with your planking. You certainly have everyone’s attention. This kit was my first build and I don’t think it’s a good first kit for many. Depends on your skill set. Bob F did an extremely in-depth log on this kit and his build is unsurpassed in my opinion. Steve
  2. Progress so far on the finishing touches. I turned a tiller with a similar profile to the tiller on Chuck’s Royal Barge. I may leave the color scheme or paint it completely red. The rudder was tapered using pinstripe tape as a guide and the flying transom was crafted out of maple and painted red on both sides, leaving natural wood around the edges. The oar handles were turned using my rotary tool. Again, like turning with a hand drill, a perfect lathe is difficult to achieve. I believe I have a satisfactory set. Oar blades will be shaped out of the 5/16” wide strips shown in the photo below. Oars will be painted completely red. I cut a 1/16” wide strip out of a .010” thick black styrene sheet to simulate the ironwork at the bow and rudder. I will be using iron oxide brown weathering powder to create the metal effects. Finally, I created a display board using scrap basswood and the remains of a 1/16” thick maple sheet. The sheet was glued on top. It needs to be sanded flush and the entire board surrounded with 5/16” wide maple strips to finish it off. Steve
  3. The plans are correct. I believe Model Expo modified Chuck’s instruction book with an incorrect measurement on the thwarts, which is too small. Go with the plans. Steve
  4. It looks very clean. What brush did you use for the large area? Steve
  5. Oarlocks painted and installed. I used strips of tape cut to 3/32” wide to space them evenly. After installation I realize that the vertical posts need to be filed down a bit. Steve
  6. Oarlocks are virtually completed. Very delicate work. I followed Chuck’s method of filing and shaping from a longer 3/32” strip. For the vertical pieces I used a 1/16” x 1/32” strip since I did not have 1/32” x 1/32” in maple. After these were glued I sanded them down to the correct scale. The below photo shows a dry fit. Undecided if these will be painted. Any thoughts? They still need to be cleaned up a bit. Steve
  7. Wow- was going to say the same thing. It does resemble boxwood! These kits are going to be flying off your shelves. Steve
  8. The maple step installed. Still plenty left to do: oarlocks, “iron” protective strap, rudder, flying transom, oars, boat hook, possible barrels, and a display stand. Steve
  9. The knees were shaped from a maple strip. Installing the step is next. Steve
  10. I look forward to how you address the specifics of rigging the 1:96 POB version as I intend on building that version some point in the future. Steve
  11. Thank you! Cutting the frieze without cutting into the design is the hardest part. It’s very narrow. Steve
  12. Hi Mike. When I first applied the Minwax Polycrylic it appears to wrinkle, but the paper pretty much dries flat. A thin coat was applied. I used an Elmer’s glue stick to glue the frieze. My method is to hold the frieze with my thumb and run the glue stick the entire strip. Make sure it’s coated and there are no lumps before applying. After it’s applied I run my finger over the entire strip. This smooths out any bumps and I can ensure proper adhesion. Steve
  13. Don, a very difficult kit indeed- not for most first timers. Also, notice James has not posted since January. Are you still at this, James? Steve
  14. Your hard work paid off! I had forgotten what that model had looked like. I think your Pinnace is jealous of this display effort. Steve
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