Tigersteve
-
Posts
1,313 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Tigersteve
-
No rush. Just wanted to see what the other part of your rigging looked like. I'm in the midst of repainting my caprail and touchup as well. Not close to rigging yet. Thank you for your reply. Steve- 277 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- model shipways
- 18th century longboat
- (and 1 more)
-
Bob- it looks great! Very excited about this:) Can you take a photo of the top of the mast for us? Steve
- 277 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- model shipways
- 18th century longboat
- (and 1 more)
-
Just found your log and skimmed through it. Nice work on this kit! Steve
- 164 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- model shipways
- armed virginia sloop
- (and 2 more)
-
It looks good. I didn't understand the purpose of the hole at first. I'm also curious how you're going the finish the hull. Stain, poly? Sorry if this has been answered already. Your planking is very clean if I remember. Steve
-
Looks good as always. What's the purpose of the hole at the top of that thing? Any idea? I'm curious. I think you should drill it. Steve
-
Thanks Chuck and everyone for all the likes! In the middle of another redo with the oarlocks. I had them installed but I rushed it a bit so naturally it has to be redone. Probably a week to correct this with the filling of holes, sanding, painting, etc. Here's some photos of other progress: belay pins painted (photo of the paint used). Pleasantly surprised by the quality of this paint. Metal work for the rudder and such is shown along with the horse and windlass handles on the side for now while the caprail gets repainted and oarlocks installed. Steve
- 165 replies
-
- 9
-
-
- finished
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Glad you decided on the wood for the deck. What are you using for the hull planking? Sorry if you've answered this already. Steve
- 362 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- active
- revenue cutter
- (and 1 more)
-
Check out Chuck's planking videos too http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13850-chucks-planking-videos/ The curve of the sheer is up to you but you need to leave a little room at the bow for the caprail and also some room at the transom. You'll see that on the plans. I spent the most time on this build on planning and marking off the hull before I started bending planks. Steve
-
I agree the gradual soaking, bending, drying then repeating worked for me. I had a couple planks with kinks and they showed after the stain so if that happens don't use them and redo unless you are painting below waterline. It really is a learning process and you will figure out what works for you. Bob F shows the method for marking off the sheer from the plans. He also explains the tick strip method which many of us used. Steve
-
It was tricky to install the windlass. I ended up sanding until it fit into position. Originally, I wanted to add that detail but I was afraid to cut into the risers. Also I wanted to keep moving forward. The drill bit that I had for drilling the hole for the wire broke so I could not add the wire. I ended up gluing it in place. Also knew adding the wire would be very difficult. Steve
-
The nailing looks good. "Time to move on". I totally get that. You will be obsessing about the next detail anyway. Oh just a tip I learned after. Install the lift rings before you install the thwarts. I know the risers are next for you but keep it in mind. Steve
-
Congrats on the planking. Steve
-
I think this one is going to be a good one. Lol What makes this kit so expensive? Is it because of the amount of walnut wood included? Anyone know? Steve
-
Glad to see you back! There aren't enough Mayflower logs to follow. I have this kit on my shelf for my third build. Look forward to your progress. Steve
-
Looks great! Steve
-
The instructions said to put them in after. I faired the frames then did some sanding on those two pieces before I glued them in. Then I had to do a little more sanding. The frames look good but if you notice any of them off, you should correct it now. It may affect the shape of the boat. Look at the frames from a couple different angles. Happy New Year! Steve
-
Looks good. I would not unglue the skylight either! Lol Steve
-
Yes- keep going. Looks good! Steve
-
Keith- your build of this is awesome. That's a log for all builders of this one to see. Steve
- 66 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- bounty launch
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
The natural stain is not a clear stain. It will darken the wood. Even the pre-stain will darken the wood a little bit. If you scroll through my log you will see the results of the pre-stain and natural stain on basswood. Some of the photos show the wood better. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14395-18th-century-longboat-by-tigersteve-model-shipways/page-1# Depends on your preference. Do some tests and see what you like. I have all oil based Minwax except for the polycrilic. Steve
- 66 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- bounty launch
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Pencil for inbetween the planks. You can pencil one edge of each plank. You do not need to mark the stem and keel. That seam will show anyway. I would not poly until planking is done. I did not have to reinforce the stem and keel. I don't think it's necessary. The wood glue makes a strong bond. Everything is prone to breakage. These parts are small. Hope this helps. Steve
-
Me too Steve
Our Emblem ®
