aliluke
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Everything posted by aliluke
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Hi Martin The cipher I used is probably even less well defined than B.E's version. I can't remember where I got them. I think Chris Watton chucked them in with the upgrade P.E set he sent me (he sent me a lot of stuff!). Anyway if you don't go down the Dafi route, I have a load of spares and I'm happy to send you enough for the 18 Fly cannons.- 467 replies
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Hi Martin There is a long discussion on cannons in my log - you may have seen it. I used 32 mm RB barrels and Syren Models carriages.
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Very nice work on the cap rails (you have sailed past me on those but I've been away...) and fittings. I couldn't pull off the side windows on the skylight - well done - and the other difference is I set my piece within, rather than on top of, the coaming which makes it smaller and lower.
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Hi Sjors I admit to lurking in your build logs for a while. You are doing great work. Getting the flow of the copper plates took me a while too. Mine is a smaller hull but I ripped off many plates on the first go until I got a feel for them. After that it wasn't too hard. Stick with it - they aren't wood but it is interesting to deal with different materials and you soon learn their character. I overlapped my plates to get the lines right but that has some other effects on the look. That said, cutting the plates to the lines would have driven me crazy - overlapping is easier.
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My 2 cents here. I'm inclined to just plank the hull and have never used this battening technique. I know that is probably a crude approach but the three hulls I've done have come up just fine. Probably makes me a bull in a china shop but unless I actually get into the planking using some basic rules of engagement I can't see ahead. I'm sure planning it out with battens is the smarter move but sometimes you have to just go for it to get your head around the issues.
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I guess this right hand left hand thing is very interesting but when you look at a model at 1:64 can you really tell which is which? Bob - yep those left hand pop up dudes know that I'm in Wellington. We are no longer safe...
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Hi Bob I never really got that left and right lay thing either. I just went for one lay - right hand - with my order. Blue Ensign has a schedule for Pegasus ropes that suggests the lays - page six or so in his build. It is something that is completely beyond me in terms of visual accuracy and from my point of view I couldn't care less...Way beyond my eyesight to usefully pick this up. Still, I'm interested in better informed answers to your question.
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Nice work on the capstan Martin. The connection between it and the upper capstan cannot be seen when the QD goes on so I didn't even bother with it. Still I had to reduce the depth of the beam slightly to give it clearance over the lower capstan.
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Hi Curtis All is looking really good. I can't remember my sequence but I'm pursuing a similar one now. Get the hard parts on which need fingers and clamps out of the way before you install the fragile bits. In your case I'd get those cap rails on before adding the cannons.
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Sweet work Timmo in every respect. A superb model and I always look forward to your updates. I'm dealing with the cap rails on Fly right now - they may seem easy but noooo. You've done a great job on them.
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Good one Jason and glad you have it sorted through replacement parts. Onwards and I'll keep watching.
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Welcome back Bill. Sometimes people disappear from the forum and you wonder where they have gone. Good to hear you are alive and kicking and ready to make some dust and shavings.
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To be honest Brett I had no idea about the correct plank lengths when I did my deck for the AVS. I just made it up to suit my eye. It is a pathway you can choose too. I'm on the same path with Fly = accurate to a point and then by eye. I guess the best I did by it was to get the butt shifts right and keep it all symmetrical. I understand now that 26' would be makeable in those days. That's close on 8 metres which is a seriously long piece of wood. Well...who knows? I never noticed that advice in the practicum about the gratings but, if it is there, it is wrong. The top grates should run fore/aft. Never mind - only train spotters will notice and who cares if they do! I look forward to your progress - she's looking the part now.
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Hi Brett I don't remember the length of my deck planking but if you have a look at my log you'll get an idea of the set out I used. Your work is looking good but I'd urge you to redo that grating if you have the parts and patience. The upper bars should run fore-aft and the lower bars starboard/port. Yours are the other way around. The grating should also have a slim frame on all 4 sides where it sits into the coaming (I think my log shows this as well). Minor details but they can make a lot of difference.
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This thread just cost me NZ$66. But happily spent . Can't wait for it to arrive.
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My thought is that I wouldn't scrape or sand any area of deck until the entire deck planking is complete. Doing one area first and then adding more makes the process much more difficult to keep even. You end up with the scraped planks being lower than the newly added ones and then can tend to overwork the line of that step to smooth it out.
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HMB Endeavour by mikec - Eaglemoss
aliluke replied to mikec's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Thanks Mike That is very clear and similar (except for the brass strip) to the technique I'm using for the cap rails. -
HMB Endeavour by mikec - Eaglemoss
aliluke replied to mikec's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Hi Mike I'd be tarred on the gammoning myself. I'm intrigued by how you bent the bumpkins. Is it by a jig - wet the dowel and then dry in a forced bend? Or do you shape to the bend from a much larger piece? I'm trying to edge bend some 1.5mm thick walnut for my waist cap rails at the moment and find it wants to revert to being straight. I edge bend it, dry it and a few days later it is more or less straight again...the wood seems to have a memory. -
Very nice update Vitus. Superb deck planking - you sure beat me for symmetry - it looks spot on. Have a look at my log for your breast beam plank question. It strikes me that the ends of the planks need to butt to a perpendicular plank. The exposed end grain of the planks would absorb moisture something bad if not for this. P.S. Just had a look back through your log - there are lots of missing pictures. Could you re-load them for us?
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Hi Larry It is great to see you back. I missed your return, went under my radar. Your Niagara is really hitting the straps now - looking good, very good. I'm sorry to hear about the loss in your family - take care and I, for one, look forward to hearing of happier times at your workbench.
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Hi Ian I'm sure that I've looked at your Unicorn log before but never replied...What you are doing, making and researching is fantastic. I'll scroll back through your log for looks and tips. Wonderful work and a superb log. Thank you.
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Hi mrcc - don't even try to fix it! If Timmo hadn't pointed it out I wouldn't have known or noticed it. You are doing very well with the kit - it is looking better with every post - and an "oops" is seen in every build.
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Looking great Ron. You seem to have a head of steam of the moment! Moving fast but with accuracy. Nice to see.
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Looking really sharp Ken. Nice stuff, she's headed for a great outcome.
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Hi Martin My fore ladder hatch is the same size as Spy's. Your ladder looks much better than the kit version - good move by you to remake it from scratch.
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