AnobiumPunctatum

Hic Chuck,

I prepared all frames, but didn't make further progress.

Wonderful Jorge. There are not so many Tritons, which already have reached this point.

Really nice figurehead. You made a great progress in the last few month.

Really nice progress, Tom

After finishing the ensemble I got the information that the step between stem and knee of the head doesn't exist. There is a drawing in Steel's Naval Architecture, that shows this detail. I am missing this book in my library and follwed the design which David descirbes in the Swan Class series by my first attempt.

Now I've reworked the comstruction:

Your section is looking fantastic

Congratulations Karl for finishing this beautyful model.

@druxey

I tapered the stem following the advice of Alan to 7.5''. Thanks for the information, than I have to sand a little bit more to get the right taper.

Actually, the weather is too nice to work in the shipyard...
...but a little bit I did manage to do this weekend.

The two prepared parts of the "Knee of the Head" were carefully fitted to the steven and then glued together.

Next, all templates were carefully removed and the fit was checked again.

To make it easier for me to glue the Knee of the Head to the stem I drilled three holes of 2.0mm and fixed the component with brass wire. At this step the fit was checked one last time and some slight corrections were made.

Now the Knee of the Head was sandes into shape. It tapers from the keel to the upper corner of the leading edge from about 10.5'' (according to SR 9.5'') to 7.5''; the trailing edge has a constant width of 10.5''. To transfer the measurements to the wood, I made small templates in CAD and glued them to the component. The stern changes its width from 10.5'' at the transition to the keel to 16'' at the top edge. I have also made a template for this. Because of all the sanding I forgot to take pictures of this stage of construction.

The last three pictures show the finished ensemble. On the second last picture you can hopefully see the wooden dowels I glued to the model instead of the brass rods.

Thanks for the Likes.

Today I prepared the "Knee of the Head". I have divided this one into two parts to make it easier for me to adapt to the stem later. First the chocks of the upper part were adjusted and glued together. For the caulking  was again single layer cellulose used. To compensate for small tolerances, the templates were again exchanged for a single one after completion of the assembly. The main piece and the other components of the upper assembly were then added.

The lower assembly was then adapted and assembled.

The following two pictures show the current status:

Since my vacation is coming to an end, the shipyard is now being exchanged for the home office. Nevertheless I hope to finish the "Knee of the Head" next weekend.

Further with the "Upper stem". There are only two parts that have to be glued to the lower part of the stem, which was already shown in the last part. The issue is complicated by the fact that even tiny angular deviations in the "Joint" lead to deviations at the upper end of the component. Aggravating is the fact that the component is about 1.7mm thicker than the keel

At first I built a small jig, which fixes the keel during the adjustment work. To check the position of the components, a template was aligned on the working surface and fixed with adhesive tape. Thin wooden plates were placed under the keel to compensate for half of the height difference.

Next, the two components of the "upper stem" were glued together. A little more material was deliberately left at the sides to compensate for the construction tolerances later. Then the joint between the new component and the "Lower stem" was adjusted with my milling machine, chisels and sandpaper until the upper end of the stem was in line with the template. Now the components could be glued together.

The old templates were removed and a new template was glued and aligned. Finally, the stem was sanded into shape.

Welcom to the Triton shipyards, Brian.

As far as I remember have all drawings the same scale: 1/48. So you have only to check, that you print every frame with 100%. For safety you can check the length of the ruler: 240'' = 127mm in 1/48.

Thanks for the likes and your interest in my project.

The description of my  reconstruction you will find here.

On Easter Monday the time had finally come. The keel of his majesty's frigate HMS Triton was laid.

First the 5 components for the keel were sawn out.

I have simplified the design of the joints considerably, as they will be completely covered later on by further components. I will continue to apply this principle during the further construction in order to adapt the building as far as possible to my craftsmanship.

The first cliff that had to be overcome is the joint between keel and lower stem. I worked this out with my milling machine and chisels.

After I had attached the wrong keel, the joints have to be dowelled. These dowels are a bit too big for the chosen scale, but I cannot draw pear wood thinner than 0.8 mm. I know that many modellers swear by bamboo, but I find pear on the finished model more discreet.

I have simulated the caulking with single-ply pulp.

Really nice progres Jorge. I like the coloring of your model.

Chuck, I had the same idea. The Hanse Kogge is a really good model of the cog wihch was excavated in Bremen. I think it's the best model of this shiptype you will find in the market. I own a book from the museum in Bremerhaven which contains all drawings they made during the excavation. The model matchs this drawings quite well.

I've bought wood by both companies. The timber in both cases was really goed.

By Massivholzwerkstatt I had the possiblity to get the timber in the different thickness I need.

Hi Clare,

thanks for your explanation.

Quote

You don't want to re-brush over an area too much, or you'll start to strip away the undercoat you painted earlier. If the color is too light, you can go back in another 24 hours and go over it again. You can also do this to add a little color variation across the parts.

Hmm, perhaps it's a goed idea to use colors which work with different dilutions. I have some Airbrush colors which work with alcohol and some oilcolors, I can try. WIth the actual crisis I have enough time at home to test.

Hi Clare,

I will follow your log with great interest. I have both cogs of shipyard in my stash and will start this weekend with the cog "Wütender Hund" ("Mad dog"). YOur log will be a fantastic help. Can you give little bit more information about painting the model. The hints in the description of shipyard are not really informative

Regards Christian

It looks fantastic Tom and is a nice add on to the Alert of trident model

Hi Kris,

here a link to a beautyful model of the Oseberg ship on the webpage of Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau.

I think it is a lot easier to draw your model in scale 1:1 and make only the prints in the scale you will build your model. In 1/32 a lot of details will be very fragible. I think 1/25 or 1/20 are much easier to build.

Most measurments you will find in books from good old Europe give metric measurements.

I've missed your updates on your beautyful build. It's good to see that you will continue.

Welcome to MSW, Tom. I hope you will show your development of your Fly and Coureur also here on MSW.

Thanks to Chuck and the whole team behind the scene for solving the copyricght-issues.

@cafmodel

do you have some issues with your website? If I click n the pictures I can reach some models but not by your menu. What is the current standing of your Bellona kit. I couldn't see any information about.

Wow, that is the appearance I like to create also for my HMS Triton. It's a fantastic result

Wow, that is looking great.