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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Chris I used liquid gloss (two part) which you can get at Spotlight (i think they still have it). Are you doing the central one as a 'false window'? - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/400-hmb-endeavour-by-banyan-al-160-circa-1768/?p=4039 cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Great work Keith, coming along very nicely. Doing that small scale decoration must be giving you a headache or two huh? cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Thanks Bob, happy with their use, just did not recognise it at first I'll have a look at that video as paul has some interesting stuff. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    An update, recently went to AFT (post 4) only to find that they had shut down - yet another timber source gone cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Thanks Rick and Gaetan - will need to find one cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Great recovery Ulises, remember the alcohol is for medicinal purposes ..... cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Ah, thats the beastie - many thanks Gaetan. My source is looking around his stuff to see if the block is there. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Oh the joys of modelling Ulises - Good luck with the fix, seems you have a solution inmind. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Exceptional, the model looks magnificent and very much enhanced with the very beautifully carved figurehead Igor. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Ahhh! that makes sense, thanks Arthur. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Hi Ben, you'll have to start feeding that passenger soon, they're nothing but a bag of boners Great to see you've sorted the electrics. A question though. i don't recall if this will be a floating/working model. If so, how will you get the oars to lift out of the water on the forward stroke so that it doesn't counteract the after stroke (propelling forward)? If it is a working static, won't be an issue. I am sure you have some clever system worked out with Arthur. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    looking very good there Russ; those sails have some very fiddly detail - must have been an 'interesting' task cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Beautiful work Druxey, the real hint of your resolve for top quality was highlighted in an earlier post about the tholes where you made almost three times as many as you needed so that you could select only the best. This discipline, and the lesson for us mere apprentices, is only reinforced with the redo rather than trim to size of the frieze. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    A fortune maybe Mark, but then how would you learn to be a 'master' of your trade/craft The rudder looks great and appears to sit hang nicely against the stern post cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Nice to see you started Alan; this should be a great model (if you survive the scares ) cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Looking really trim John; hope the health is back to normal for you soonest. Best wishes Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Some really great progress. That is a very interesting technique you are employing with the perspex and it was great to see it live at our last meeting. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    A couple of very nicely detailed ships there Greg; you'll have a miniature fleet before you know it cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Thank you very much Rick, Mark and Bob - appreciate the feedback. I had a thought after I had posted it may have been a scribe due to the two pins; but had not even thought on the missing block Thanks also for the tip on the planes TLC - I will take a look. These look to have been used by a carpenter (based on the wear and tear) with the soles having been trued. that said, I intend to pull them down, clean all parts, resharpen the blades and retrue the soles and the sides of the rebate plane. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Hi all, thanks for looking in and the encouraging words; too many to thank individually, so I will keep this general. WRT stain or painting the yards - I am still not decided. I have found no definitive evidence that they were painted black in that period and remain open to suggestions. I have some time yet to decide as I am contemplating putting furled sails on and I need some time to investigate that also. WRT to the jewellers mitre anvil (THANKS Per) - I believe MicroMark may also have them but please check that they are not a cheaper version. The real thing is made of a very hard metal (I think steel or an alloy) so that you can safely cut or file against the surface. This makes them a little expensive though, but makes the metal work so much easier and cleaner. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Hi folks, I have recently had some old tools come my way (#7, #4, #71 and #78 planes; and a bunch of other small odds and ends). Among the other items was this small hand held tool that looks like it may be some form of vise. The screew (metal into hardwood thread, slides the brass strip back and forth in the slot which can open to about75mm. The slot is about about 3 -4 mm wide. There are the stubs of what appear to have been two brass pins visible, on on the fixed end, one on the sliding part. if not a vise, I intend to use it as such, as it is ideal for holding short lengths for sanding, bevelling and drilling or the like. Any ideas or clues please? cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    A small update with some progress made on the yards. The metal block you see is a jewellers block that allows a clean cut at 90, 45 or 60 degrees for round or square material; this has been quite handy for these very small bits. The design for these yard arm iron work is for the bent piece to slip over the end then the rings are slid over that. I used a small jewellers anvil to splay some brass tube to get the angled inner diameter before slicing off the thin rings. Some of the yards have had some of the additional fittings/furniture added but still need to be cleaned up and stained. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Beautiful - very nicely detailed Greg. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    That looks great Mark, a marked improvement (sorry, no pun intended0. Your testing seems to be paying dividends. I use Birchwood casey almost exclusively now for th reasons you have given. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    That bevel is very effective Dan. cheers Pat

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