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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Hi again all ands another small update. i am heading off on holidays later this month so have put off starting on the yardarms. in the meantime I have started making some of the final fittings such as the swivel guns and Quarterbadge Window Shutters (separate post). The swivel guns provided (see parts photo) were a single moulded soft metal part which while showing some detail were not up to scratch. I purchased some small canon from Chuck which are real nice and I need to adapt these to be swivel guns including the cradle, post spigot and the training arms. The following photos show progress to date where I have completed the saddle to the point of drilling for the trunnions which will be soldered in place using 1mm brass rod (stiffer than wire) to form the trunnions. I have still to drill a hole in the bade to accept the post spigots. To make the cradle (consistent shape and drilling) I hand shaped the cradle from the brass strip stock shown using parallel pliers with a mark on the sides for width and for the height of one of the arms. this was then placed in a wooden template/jig that was of the required width of the cradle and marked for the position of the trunnion holes. A notch in the end of this allowed the brass strip to be seated correctly and then secured in a vise. I hand drilled the trunnion holes (with a few failures where I wandered off centre on the bottom hole (as shown in one of the photos). The drilled strip was then cut to height on the other arm, placed in my hand-held vise and shaped using a needle file. I will make the training arms from wire similar to the technique shown by Chuck. The post spigot holes will be drilled next and all parts soldered as required to complete the assembly. I will show these when I get to that part. Photos - part 1: cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Great work on the stern Mark, some defining detail there which will really dress your lady nicely. How long until she is upright? cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Great progress Greg, that is looking good. The 'wine' colouir and lino is very unusual for a deck covering and I would have thought prone to trapping moisture resulting in more ship's husbandry headaches? Must have worked though for them to have persisted with it. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    They look good BW; glad you took the tougher option as this adds some additional nice detail to the ship. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Thanks Popeye; yep in real life that would be the case and I agree in that some imperfections add a sense of reality - it would have been a very strict ship (and probably a mutinous environment) had these things been that precise cheers and thanks for looking in again Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Hi Ian, now that I am retired I have more time to read more logs and came across your very interesting and very nice build of Unicorn. Some great research and discussion here, and I look forward to taking the time to read through thoroughly in the near future. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Lovey bit of engineering and mini-machine production Wefalck - a work of precision art! cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Great attention to detail Danny - are you setting yourself any challenges with this minor build? cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Looking good mate; keep those updates coming as they are interesting readng. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Just an exercise sent to try your patience mate I am assuming (sorry no real other option of word) it is easier for you to cutaway and extend/fill-in other bits of the decking after plugging the hole a bit, than it is to remodel the superstructure? Which is more correct to the scale/actual size of the ship? Good luck but I know you'll be able to salvage the situation. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Hi Mikie, One way is to mark the small line for the slot, dimple the start point for several drill holes (to stop the bit wandering) and drill out a series of small holes along the line with the appropriately sized micro-drill bit - ensure one hole is at the near top and bottom of the slot. use a sharp blade to score the edge of the slot and cut out the waste; finish with a small file. If you have a mill this can be a lot easier - just ensure you set up the piece in the vice/holding jig on the sliding table accurately. That's how I did mine (at scale 1:60). cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Very nice work - great detail. It's a pity the customer took the lion before you completed it but I do look forward to your next effort. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Thanks John, Chris and Mark - glad I was able to recover it. Looking at the photos though show how uneven the line of the deadeyes are - not very seaman like - they actually don't look as bad in reality.
  14. BANYAN
    While waiting for paint to dry , I tried a bit of puddening to see how it would look cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    OK folks, repairs completed. I decided to simply reslot the channel as the boat boom (when fitted later) will mask any obvious repair marks. The following photos show most of the process. I temporarily pinned the affected shroud to keep it clear and prevent any slackening of the ratlines etc. I then removed the chain plate, slotted the channel capping in preparation for the repaired chain plate, cleaned up the fitting and resoldered the padeye ring to the chains, then refitted the assembly. I used a scrap piece of wood to create the 'plug' in the channel capping then rerove a new lanyard and touched up with paint. One of the benefits of painting is that it can hide these joints What do you think? Cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    i again Paul, I have found the lathe invaluable, not just for the jobs you have already identified, but also for creating profiles/mouldings, canon carriages, ship's wheel etc. I have found the Sherline an excellent tool - quality + Sorry mate, wasn't trying to infer that you didn't know it was expensive, just pointing out that for a small job such as the mice/buoys it might not have been value for money. PM me if you need further info. I think it is worth considering if you have some spare pocket money ) cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    What a boon that laser cutter is Mark; the new piece is such a dramatic improvement. Now, can you loan it to me to remove (cut away) the capping from my midship channel cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Happy birthday mate; have a few coldies and a good lie down cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Thanks Mark, I am still debating whether to take the full length of the capping off the channel or just cut a slot and replace it after repairing the chain plate, and using the boat boom (when fitted later) to assist in masking the joints. I am worried that in attempting to remove the full length of capping that I may cause even further damage and with all the rigging on the mast near complete, that would be a tremendous setback. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    No worries Greg Hi Paul, Greg is right - I only used the lathe as I had it - a (grown up) file or even sanding stick (with appropriate grits) will work equally as well (just take much longer). The lathe I use is not a cheap solution as I have a Sherline (metric version with extended bed) and I used the compound sliding plate/rail. Sherline is not cheap but you get what you pay for. A cheaper mill will work for you but you need to do a lot more tuning and refining to it, and the accessories can be equally as costly in many cases. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Well worth the effort Danny, a beautiful piece of joinery that compliments the build very nicely! cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    That is some very nice planking mate with near perfect symmetry - she will look great with the planking completed. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    You're progressing well Chris - how're the pool noodles working out for you cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Hi all and thanks for looking in. The chain plate issue was caused by me putting too much lateral force (twisting) rather than longitudinal failure. I was trying to tie off a tackle running end on a shroud cleat and must have twisted the chain plate too much in trying to access it. the plate failed where I had soldered the deadeye ring to the chain part of the plate (a photo will follow) Anyways, still trying to determine the best fix. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Some further progress on the nun (anchor) buoys, with one complete. Not really happy with it, but at this scale 1:60) it is only15mm (core) so I can live with it - next one should be better. That said, still a bit unhappy with the gap due one slightly too long sling leg. I also made one of the ring ropes to large in circumference and it sits a little low. One small disaster today (photos in a couple of days) with one of the chain plates giving way. I need to remove the leading edge /cap of the channel, remove the deadeye lanyard, repair the solder joint and reassemble - one for Danny's boo-boo forum I think Anyway here is the completed nun-buoy - I left the wood natural to simulate a cork core. cheers Pat

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