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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Slow or not, that is some nice progress UV. Good luck with the workshop mods. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Looks good John, nice and true framing. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Spectacular work Jason; very nicely presented tackle and the stoves are a work of art! cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Hi all, I am trying to sort out the terminology used by different authors, and probably relevant to different eras also. I am building a model of ship launched in 1855. The preeminent authors of this period (for masting and rigging) being Fincham and Kipping whom both published editions in 1854. Specifically, they write of the 'knees' fitted to masts under Hounds/Hounding, and being one piece, but Fincham in particular also talks about 'cheeks' separately. In earlier times I am familiar with Bibbs and Cheeks being separate. Fincham states that Knees fitted in 'Steamers' being one piece, but he and Kipping seem to use the terms Hounds, Hounding and Knees inconsistently. Under 'Cheeks', Fincham describes them being of yellow pine and describes how they were coaked and bolted. I am assuming also that the knee is the former bibb? Am I correct in assuming that these are all the one and same item(s)? That is, a single piece knee and cheek form the 'hounds'? any thanks Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Nah, you'll go straight to heaven Greg - you have done your penance already doing the cammo. My vote would be a naval cammo if it is not too late. This ship was intended for sea operations; the only reason we see their planes over land all the time is that they rarely went to sea. The exceptions being the seaplanes and maritime patrol aircraft (especially the 'Condor'); the latter had a grey colour scheme if I remember back from my youth making plastic planes - the memory cells just ain't what they used to be cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    If not a bridle port, perhaps a 'warping block'? Is ther one near the stern also? The HMCSS Victoria (1855) was fitted with 'warping blocks' (sometimes called transporting blocks) but have not been able to find any imagery. Just a thought. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Great job Carl; looks very good indeed. Pressure on me for the Vampire now I feel cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    She looks great Carl, very nice work indeed. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Astonishing detail Greg; she sure will look the part with her planes added. Have you thought of placing her in a diorama of sorts (painted background of sea horizon, sky, clouds and perhaps a plane or two flying around? cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    She's looking extroadingly good Rob, nice work mate. At the scale you are building good luck with the gaskets had you tried cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Coming along nicely Steven. I visited the spot on the Hamble River where the remains of her hull lie during my recent trip to the UK; nothing to see but I can say I was there I can send a photo if you like? cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Can't beat the Jim Byrnes disc sander for accuracy IMHO. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    That is one very nice build, even without her aircraft and weapons. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Hi, I do what EdT and many other modellers do for rigging - do NOT cut off the tail ends of any lines until ALL rigging is complete. For example when tensioning the stays via the deadeye lanyards. I do not type off the lanyard tails in their final seizings; rather, I tie a few hitches around the shroud with the tail. and bundle/coil the rest and tape it out of the ay. that way I can retension everything as I go or as required. T When everything is done, I do a final tension of all lines - preferably in a neutral or 'median' humidity, do the final seizing or belaying, add the rope coils etc. Have a look at EdT's last build (Young America) and you will see what I mean. The rigging can get 'messy/busy' but it is worth it. The reason I aim at amdian humidity (mid spring / autumn if I can) is that (for natural fibre cordage) there should be sufficient elasticity to allow for shrink/expansion during drier or more humid conditions - but over a longer time some further adjustment may be required (as already pointed out - me - I just live with the sag in more humid weather. Cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Very nice progress Rob and you seem to have mastered the 'system ' as you call it. Unless you're not telling us of some redos? Like you I prefer to avoid them but sometimes .... 🙄 Cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Very nice BW; extremely well executed workmanship. I like your idea of leaving the scuttles open as that is some nice detail to view (if not obscured by the rigging etc when you add it?)
  17. BANYAN
    BW I am sure you could create these and bsides I am very envious of your quality finishes. Thanks for your kind words
  18. BANYAN
    That deck looks very plausible Greg, no need to disguise anything there. Really looks good 👌👍👍
  19. BANYAN
    Welcome back to the fray Mike. Now that you have started it will be all the easier to keep going (says I having put off some tasks for too long ) That hull looks very good. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Nice work Greg. Are you going to distress the deck and add tyre marks at the landing area etc? cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    More nice work Keith, makes my day seeing these updates - but I don't think the 'laptop' has made yours cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    She's looking very fine indeed Steven; the overall shot really shows how much effort and detail you have put into the build. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Nice job Tim, glad you are happy with the results - she looks great. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Another consideration for naval vessels would have been 'visibility' - from a purely tactical point of view why colour sails so that you are more easily spotted against the horizon? At least flax sails tended to be of less contrast against clouds etc. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Ahh, you'll just have to stretch out that last 10% then Rob - can't have a sudden loss of visibility to these fine ships can we (sincerely). cheers Pat

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