BANYAN

Hi and welcome. I am assuming you wish to make RHL rope (even though you ask about Cable laid)? To make rope tight, sometimes (depending on what way you make the rope) it needs to be set. This means overtightening at the end (additional twisting without lengthening) or pre-tensioning by unlaying the rope initially. From what you are describing there are a few points, and a few things you could try. 1. Cable laid is stronger but makes-up more stiffer. 2. You are correct in saying that if you start with RHL then make it up LHL, so if possible source some LHL stock (harder to find), or make it up LHL if the small amount of extra stiffness or direction of lay is not an issue - you may hardly notice the stiffness at this scale especially if using softer stock threads. 3. The angle of the lay (which really equates to the number of winds per inch/cm) also helps; somewhere around 60 degrees is optimum (but more knowledgeable people may help here). I am not familiar enough with Alex's ropewalk but you may be able to adjust this using different tension weights. 4. I think you are connecting the source thread properly. You could try adding some diluted PVA/Water to the end of the rope where it starts to lay-up before removing the made up scale rope - let it set before cutting - this will help stop it unravelling at that end. HOWEVER, a better practice may be to simply tie a knot at both ends at this point so that you can 'set' the rope off the ropewalk. (see next) 5. Some more experienced folk can make up rope (from practice and experimentation) that does not unravel - Chuck's is a good example). One thing that I have found helps is that after making up the rope, I 'set' it. I first stretch the rope manually (pulling between my hands in about one-metre lengths - arms distance where I can still apply tension comfortably) - as soon as you 'feel' that little bit of over tensioning - feels a little like a small strand has broken - STOP - this will take a little experience but comes naturally. Once I have completed this step, I hang the rope from some spread out hooks in the ceiling (at height) with large fishing weights on fishing line swivels, at both ends for a couple of days - the swivels are to assist with removing twist). I find this takes much of the 'elasticity/stretch out of the scale rope and minimises the tendency for any twisting when using the scale rope. The amount of stretch to be removed really depends on the source stock. (see next). 6. My last point would be to use a stock that suits your needs. Is the rope used on the actual drum a natural, man-made or mix of cordage - and is this aspect important (authentic replication)? I prefer where ever possible to use natural fibre, and preferably long-staple cotton thread. I have had some success with a poly-cotton mix also (needs a little more 'after-stretching' due to the poly but tends to lay up just a little better ) but cotton can lay nicely also, just look at Chuck's rope. If a mixed source thread, I try to stay at under 30% poly content if possible. So if you have DMC already, which I think is RHL, and cable laid is no issue to you as to looks/authenticity, make it up into cable laid (LHL/'S') scale rope. If you do need RHL final product, either source or make up your own LHL stock. There is a 'tatting' thread made by Milford which is cotton and does come in LHL. Not sure where you would get it but I found it here in a chain store called "Spotlight". I hope this helps rather than confuses you further? cheers Pat

I hope all turns out well for you and your family soon Mark; 'life and family' must always take priority. If you do park her on the shelf, it was a great learning experience for you (and us) and you were able to well and truly test the 'death star'. cheers Pat

Stunning! - simply stunning detail and workmanship. What a wonderful model this turned out to be GAW, you can be justifiably proud of this work. cheers Pat

Superb! if I can ever achieve that level of model joinery I will be very happy; thanks for showing what can be achieved. cheers Pat

Great looking progress there Steven, should be a nicely detailed bow/forecastle when complete. cheers Pat

Nice rework John, tricky timbers those transoms and after timbers; looks like you have a good handle on them though. cheers Pat

Hi Keith just catching up on your very nice build; missed the start of your log much to my disappointment. I will follow this build with considerable interest. Love that freezer bag clamp! WRT to the bulwarks, we experienced a similar issue with the build of HMCSS Victoria. The vessel was built on the diagonal planking system so there were no rising timbers to attach the bulwark planking to. One of our members came up with the idea of a temporary bracing jig which was waxed on the outer edges (could use wax paper also). We epoxied the lower strakes and bases of the roughtree timbers for additional strength. You will not need the spacers for the roughtree timbers for your build if you tried this method as you will have the rod supports to add later. This jig worked quite well for us and considerable additional rigidity and strength was gained with the the added roughtree timbers - the bulwarks are surprisingly strong considring they are 'added on'. The jig is made from three longitudinal pieces with the outer ones (port and stbd) sliding in and out to adjust to correct position and facilitate later removal; the central one was screwed to the top of the bulkheads to hold the jig in place. The nuts and washers you see were to secure the outer pieces once in position, then released to slide them back to the middle to remove the jig without interfering with the added bulwarks. We needed to add the extra piece at the transom for additional rigidity of the rig. The large block in the middle allowed us to place the whole jig/model assembly into a ball joint vice to better work on the lower strakes of the bulwark. cheers Pat

She's looking very grand Rob; hopefully you won't run into any problems with the jib and stay sails. cheers Pat

That looks pretty good Steven, I like the 'improvisation' cheers Pat

I too am a convert to resistance soldering GL, nice self-made rig you have made. The goal is always for practical application not winning any artistic merits cheers Pat

Impressive marina you have there; thought of using them as props in the next 'Bond' film? On second thoughts, better not do that, they have a habit of blowing their toys to pieces. cheers Pat

Close? It looks pretty good to me Rob, nce work. cheers Pat

Thanks Eberhard, PE really helps with this. No way I could have cut those strips so consistently cheers Pat

She looks great Dave; very nice job. As you said she looks particularly good with the backdrop painting, but as others have said keep the dust off her. cheers Pat

Take as long as you like between updates if this is the result ED; very nice rigging work (as usual). I learned the hard way about cutting the tails of the running rigging to early cheers Pat

Some further small updates; not much but a start on the Accommodation Ladder (by another member) and I have started on some rigging screws for the funnel chains and the first of the broadside gun breeching rope ring bolts. The first two photos show the top and under sides of the main part of the accommodation ladder - wood unknow. The second two photos shows the parts for, and the made up and blackened rigging screws, and ring bolt etc. The slightly larger rigging screw will be used elsewhere. cheers Pat

Now you have 'dropped' him in it Steven A 'tongue in cheek' reference to our 'extremely' dangerous Koalas Druxey - cause a lot of damage and injury when they 'drop' out of the trees Just a warning to all those tourists looking up Sorry John hijacking your thread here. cheers Pat

The world's weather is going nuts; floods and fires here, freezes and snow on the upper half - stay safe one and all. Sounds like you were well prepared at least Rob. cheers Pat

Looking good Steven, and you have thought this through thoroughly . I think the idea of removable handles is a good one as the crew would still need to have access around the forecastle for various tasks. cheers Pat

Nice 'get' - that looks like a Jim Byrnes draw plate (Model Machines)? cheers Pat

That looks good Greg; some of those hull 'scrapes and dents' look very realistic. cheers Pat

Hi all, I have a Lanco lathe that was given to me and for which I had plans to use in this hobby; however, I have decided the Sherline I have does all I need. I am selling this to get some money for more tooling for the Sherline. The Lathe comes in its original wood box, it is in good condition and spins freely. It uses 8mm collets (none included) which are readily available through the usual online shopping outlets on the internet. The photos show the lathe and the indexing stop; but I have not been able to determine what the bolts were for but were in the box. There are no other accessories but many are available through the above sources. These lathes are not cheap, but I will accept reasonable offers + shipping costs. Payment via PayPal or Direct Bank Deposit if interested please. Please PM me for details if seriously interested. cheers Pat

That's looking pretty spiffy Patrick; a diamond finish for a real gem cheers Pat

Mate, that's the way I work all the time - ALL at sea - Knowing your work I am sure it will be a thing of beauty when you finalise the transoms. cheers Pat

Looks good Steven; I hadn't realised how small this was until you placed the match against it. some very nice 'bashing' there. cheers Pat