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yvesvidal

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  1. A few updates. I have been waiting for more than a week for the stanchions. Age of Sails handled my request quickly, but placed my shipment on a ground Fedex carrier....$14.00 for an envelope of not even 2 ounces.... Anyway, patience is a must have when you try to build models during a Plandemic. As I mentioned before, the hull is now finished.... I am lying: I need to paint the rudder and the propeller and glue them to call it complete. I pretty much reached my objective which was to build the hull, with this new (to me) 3D printing technology. The long and tedious work done on the various pieces of decks and their perfect fitting on the hull, allows me to approach each segment of deck as a sub-project whenever I feel the urge to do it. That is important on a large model like this one....it is very easy to be overwhelmed. So, to display the hull and most importantly to protect it and be able to store it vertically, I have also built a display stand. The main board is a "step" made of pine of 4 feet long by 10 inches wide. It is your traditional step found at Lowes' or Home Depot. The good thing about these boards is that they are very sturdy and will not warp. On top of it are glued, 1/2 x 1/2 inches pieces of maple wood, colored with Cherry wood stain. The main board is stained with Natural color and varnished with Polycrylic Semi-Gloss, using a foam pad for application. Two #10 (5 mm) nuts are glued inside the hull to provide for a strong and discrete anchor: Yves
  2. Truly impressive of realism. I wish I could hire you ..... Yves
  3. Absolutely. All the other parts will be a piece of cake in comparison. I am looking forward to seeing your new hull develop.... Yves
  4. Lovely blue color. It reminds me of my incursions to the shores of the Mediterranean sea. Very well depicted. Yves
  5. Fabulous. I love the colors and the way you approach this kit. Yves
  6. I will be following this Build with interest. I love Calder Craft kits: they are incredibly well put together, have all the details you need to finish the model and always depicts unusual and endearing vessels. My brother built a few of their kits and they are just fabulous. Yves
  7. Haze, Superb work on that hull. Could you describe in more details, the type of coating you are using to fill up the gap lines of the printing? I have used some generous coats of primer on my 3D printed Corvette and it turned out okay. However, for smaller scales such as 1/72, one need a smoother surface to make it look more realistic. Yves
  8. Oh my God !!! Dumping all this acrylic resin around you beautiful model..... That must be a tough decision. It is looking very good. Yves
  9. Beautiful model Craig. It is really hard to believe this is 1/700 scale..... Very realistic and exquisitely painted. Yves
  10. This is promising. I came to build models, after watching my father for hours and hours, as a kid. What a wonderful teaching ! Yves
  11. Very elegant ship and beautiful kit. I will be following that unusual model. Planking? I agree with you and would do it over. Yves
  12. Beautifully done Ras. I like the white board in the background.....it really helps when you install riggings and tie knots. Yves
  13. Alan, Where is the spool holder installed on your printer? Did you place it as much as possible to the left top? Do you have the small brass eyelet guiding the filament into the feeder? I just cannot explain why the filament would snap like this, coming out of a fresh and new spool. Unfortunately, this printer does not detect the lack of filament, as other and more sophisticated printers do. I wish they could retrofit this nice and important feature in the Ender-3. Yves
  14. Veszett, I do not believe you can easily print stanchions for multiple reasons: 1-You have to design them as they are not provided in the kit. So, you need to go in Sketchup or Blender and create a stanchion model 2-Printing a small cylindrical shape is delicate and does not work very well, if you do not use support. 3-The resiliency and solidity of the printed PLA is way too fragile and brittle for such small stanchions. That is why I ordered some brass stanchions and I am waiting for them. I am not planning to weather the Corvette. I really suck at weathering. Instead, I will be presenting a freshly painted and renovated ship. Thank you for the compliments about the wooden deck. I like it a lot, too. It brings a nice contrast to this mountain of plastic/PLA. Yves
  15. Beautiful barrels !! Will you fill them up with some red wine? Yves
  16. Alan, I am so happy you are making good progress with the hull. All the other parts, with perhaps an exception with the stack, are easier to print. Especially the decks and cabins. That little cat is cute...is that the one provided with the printer? Yves
  17. The texture is perfect for people who like to build "distressed" models, as most Corvettes are usually represented. The material is perfect and very conducive to rusty streaks and other imperfections. Yves
  18. Craig, No, only the major components are provided to give an overall appearance of Modified Flower Class Corvette. There is plenty of room for Photo Etched sets and finely detailed resin sets, especially at this large scale. The kit provides a foundation to build a decent model, but details are coming short, unfortunately. One of the things I do to add a few more details, is to resize certain "provided" components. Before slicing, you can increase or decrease the size and shape by playing on the 3 axis independently. I am also adding some details with styrene strips and tubes. When I see what is available for the Matchbox/Revell Corvette, it makes me drool with envy..... However, in that scale, you have to shop in different directions. For instance, I am desperate about finding 20 mm high stanchions with two holes. If I was in Europe, Amati and Billing Boats offer these at a reasonable cost. In the US, I do not know where to go.....and I need a lot of them. HELP !!!!! Yves
  19. Quick update: the Hull is now finished !!! Portholes have been filed and markings added. I am just missing the measuring ladders and will probably go with the decals recommended by an earlier post. I need to work on a display board, to present the model and protect it, at the same time. Yves
  20. A quick update on the portholes and hull. As mentioned before, when the hull is printed, the portholes are solid since the kit is created for RC usage and navigation. In my case, I drilled all the ports with a 4.5 mm bit. Now has come the time to fill them up. I am using an almost magical chemical, that has the capability to fill up a hole up to 6 mm diameter with a white goo that turns crystal clear after a few hours. You also need a tooth pick and with a rotation of the hands, you create a ring of the goo, inside the portholes. Below you can see one that has dried and one porthole that was just filled up: Because the hull is very thick, I used a second application of that magic goo, after the first application dried. It filled up quite well the holes and looks a lot like the heavy glass used on the real ship. Finally, for the decals, I went with one of the suggestions and printed the decals on thin paper sheets, carefully cut them, soaked them in PVA diluted with water and applied them carefully to the hull. A little sponging on top and voila.... It is not too bad overall. Yves
  21. Beautiful job on the barrels. Yes, that is a lot of work but these details are important. By the way, I am glad to see that you are back working on The Coureur !! Yves
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