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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Lovely work, Ohla. You can also use that beautiful new Byrnes saw to cut brass using a slitting saw. Its very easy, just place a thin sheet under the brass while cutting. I use a slitting blade, 0.020" or less.
  2. dvm27
    Ship Ahoy makes a beautiful motor upgrade for the Preac saw which greatly increases its cutting ability. Unfortunately, the link used to work brings up an entirely different type of model and I suspect they are out of business.
  3. dvm27
    Three years down the road when those delicate knighthead corners are chipped and dinged you'll realize it's quite easy to replace them by amputating from the forecastle planksheer up, creating new ones and grafting them back on. The small ones are easily created by forming a short parallelogram of stock then slotting the recesses on a table saw (or mill).
  4. dvm27
    Enjoying you build log Stuglo. I spent almost a decade on this fully framed model. Early mistakes are inevitable. The key is to recognize and correct them. Everything you do next year depends on the accuracy of what you do now. I can't tell you how many times I whipped out the isopropyl alcohol my first year and replaced a bad part. Ungluing is incredibly easy with PVS glue (sometimes scarily so)! Looks like you've done a very nice job so far on the stern transoms. Don't forget to view the excellent logs of Tony Levine and Remcoe.
  5. dvm27
    Matt - I sent you a PM. Dave - the Echo class plans are available as well for the same price. Includes the Swan class masting and sparring plan as they would be the same for a six rate.
  6. dvm27
    Thanks for those of you choosing to purchase our plans. When paying through PayPal please also send me a brief message so I can confirm your e-mail address. This is not always evident when I receive the PayPal notice of payment.
  7. dvm27
    Swan class plans now available in digital format!!! Good news for those building a Swan class model or contemplating building one in the future. Admiralty Models is now providing the plans in digital format. With Sea Watch books no longer providing paper copies of our plans we have decided to make them available for download. These include the large sheet with the sheer, half breath and body plan, the masting and sparring plan sheet and the fully lofted set of frames, transoms, hawse timbers, etc. We have never done this before but there are many copies of The Fully Framed Model which have been sold and we want future modelers to have access to our plans. As well, current modelers of a Swan class model will find it very convenient to have these plans in digital format. All plans are provided with scales to insure they are printed accurately (results vary with different commercial services in my experience - the scale will insure they are correct). Price for the full set of plans is $50 USD. They are provided in PDF format. Payment made via PayPal to dvm27@comcast.net. Upon receipt of payment a link will be provided to download the plans. Greg Herbert & David Antscherl www.admiraltymodels.com
  8. dvm27
    Actually I use holly with the Fiebings leather dye. Holly bends much easier (especially useful in the wales). But be sure to stain the wood off the model. You can carefully touch it up after installed.
  9. dvm27
    You have certainly mastered the laser Chuck! The hair bracket and scroll work looks just like the Navy Board versions.
  10. dvm27
    Terrific review, James. This is a very ambitious project. To me the greatest difficulty will be getting the external planking runs perfectly aligned and pre-beveled to exact specs. Notching the frames for the planking in a clinker style hull seems like a great solution to clinker planking providing that every notch is perfectly aligned. I’m curious to know if the planking at the bow and the stern has gains (tapers) to make them flush at the transom and stem rabbet.
  11. dvm27
    I look forward to your take on the cheeks and rails with their intricate moldings. Your scroll work has already set the bar for other manufacturers
  12. dvm27
    Congratulations on the completion of a beautiful model Kevin! She looks lovely in her case - just nope nobody puts a knee through her glass while enjoying a cocktail.
  13. dvm27
    Kevin, I believe when it's time to fair you will see that the fore edges of the fore cants and frames will disappear while the aft edges will require little if any sanding. The same will hold true with the aft cants and frames except in reverse. The mid frames should require little if any fairing. If the kit has the actual bevel lines etched on I would strongly suggest you leave them on the full side until fairing. One over-bevelled frame can distort each frame around it.
  14. dvm27
    Looks terrific, Karl. How did you hold the ballast together? Diluted white glue?
  15. dvm27
    We used to sell the plans on Mylar but now they are sold by Sea Watch Books and are printed on paper. You could have the paper deck plan copied onto Mylar at a print shop but as Druxey noted make sure they match perfectly.
  16. dvm27
    I did the same with my Swan class model, Ben. Looks like your Mylar pattern fit better than mine. Well done! Tony, you can make little pin pricks through the Mylar to transfer marks. It's very accurate. I also made deep pin pricks at the fore end of the pattern as registration marks to relocate the pattern each time it was removed.
  17. dvm27
    My only problem with earlier CNC carvings and moldings was that they looked like they were done on a machine. You have achieved a level of proficiency that makes your work look very natural, like they could have been made by a talented sculptor. Who could have a problem with that?
  18. dvm27
    I did that on my Hannah model Jim and the result was too much black (I assume you're talking about for deck planking). Perhaps a grayish black would work better. I think the pencil edge blackening technique is more subtle and doesn't over power the surrounding work. Definitely experiment first and don't forget the finish. You don't want the black paint to run if applying a finish over it.
  19. dvm27
    Yes, Volume Two has four sheets of plans (masting and sparring, standing rigging, running rigging square yards and running rigging fore and aft gaffs). All line sizes and falls are illustrated.
  20. dvm27
    It is indeed, Carlos. Just received my copy and am very pleased with the final product. Hopefully, those looking for a smaller project but at a scale that is accessible for much detailing (1:48) will give it a try. With the two volume Speedwell book and plans you can't ask for a better set of instructions. Now maybe some enterprising third party will offer a set of carvings for the project like what happens in the model aircraft industry with photo etched upgrades.
  21. dvm27
    That looks terrific, Toni. Looks like you've mastered those tricky gains fore and aft.
  22. dvm27
    I was also somewhat confused by that at first Karl. But since then I have noted a red muzzle and plug on other Navy Board models. Not sure if it a modeler's convention or just decorative but the practice is contemporary to other models of this period.
  23. dvm27
    All I know is that my cable bill with Xfinity is over $300/month but I can't watch a damn Apple TV movie because of some digital buffoonery . Watching a WW2 movie with Tom Hanks on a computer screen just seems wrong. It was made for a 60" screen (at least)!
  24. dvm27
    Couldn't agree more Allan. Been using them for a couple of years and haven't had to sharpen yet. Don't want to mess up that perfect finish he honed!
  25. dvm27
    I haven't seen the Triton cross section framing plans but if all the floors, futtocks and toptimbers are the same thickness this is a modelers convention to make the construction easier. Her timbers would have diminished in thickness as well. We chose a section of Echo that had only one cast toptimber. It's not that difficult to do. Plans and build instructions are all free on our Admiralty Models build site.

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