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augie

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by augie

  1. The rudder, gudgeons and pintels have been installed. We'll be adding some additional photoetched details to the hull next, including the sweep port hinges.
  2. I'm wondering if the USCG still drops a wreath on the spot at the appointed time? My Admiral had a relative on board who survived.
  3. I have to go along with Jud ....... make it a walk around bench. But I have seen some 'lazy susan' arrangements here on MSW. The problem with a walk-around (I have one) is that the plans are up on the wall but some feet away. Vacuum line is a great idea.
  4. Well done, mate. These bluff bows are fun...aren't they???? I second the motion on the Testor's brush on Dullcoat. Seems to have 101 uses.
  5. I'll add one requirement to your 'short list' ----- electrical outlets in the ceiling to bring small power items temporarily into play without having cords all over the bench.
  6. CONGRATS on the rats! Good time for a road trip before you get the spars on her. Please, please make sure you have a good way to secure her for the trip.
  7. Looks interesting, Frank. ME has been folding their plans lately as well. I use a light touch with the Admiral's steam iron and then hang them for a while.
  8. She's looking terrific, Grant. And I like the plan down to the finish line. And congrats on the promotion, Commodore!
  9. I'm starting to see the sheer line. Glad to see the old spacer stick in play. No sweep ports !!!! Is nothing sacred???? Looking great!
  10. Based on everything else you've done you'll do just fine. We've all done our share of head-scratching convinced a particular step was impossible. It's part of the joy of ship modeling !!
  11. Grant is correct ..... diluting the glue doesn't effect the strength very much but it does slow the drying time. I use the 'u' shaped needle tool described above or a sharpened toothpick. I sharpen and clean the toothpick on a sanding block if the glue starts to build up and dry.
  12. I've used epoxy out to two years or so. It may thicken a bit if it just sits around. If that happens, take the top off and put it in the microwave in 10 second intervals. One or two shots and it's good as new. And remember, I use it for gas powered flying models that stress it far more than static models.
  13. No, it does not. The question is ---- do you work from left to right, or right to left? And please tell us if you're left-handed!
  14. I trust Rear Admiral Sjors is taking notes. Beautiful work on the Crow's feet. Good luck with the new toys. There shall be no stopping you now!
  15. Bowsprit hole looks great. I share your fear of power tools and hulls. Yes, epoxy is best as you can easily wipe off any excess with alcohol while it's still not set. Just scuff up the metal contact surface as you're not dealing with a whole lot of stress on the rudder parts. I use what they stock in the local hobby shop. Comes in 6 minute and 15 minute set times. They make some that take even longer to cure.
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