popeye the sailor

hey there Mark...........just caught up with your log! sorry to hear that you were having problems.......haven't visited here as much as I would like to. I'm hoping to find my way back to the wood side soon glad to read on that things have gotten better for you, but I'll keep my fingers crossed that you can get back to a norm that makes you happy. great job on the ship's boat.......looks like you've rekindled the mojo to continue with this project. truly super job.......keep good thoughts

very nice progress on Hannah sweet job on the binnacle and belfry. I'll likely late in catching you, but enjoy the summer and your trip!

as with the S&M build, here is the update I promised you folks........it's comprised of everything done between the tenth through the fourteenth. for the first order of business........the cab was painted with the flat red. I did fix the gaps at the walkway tabs.......no more spaces there. there are grab handles along with a few other parts that need to be painted........so they were gathered and painted. before I can add the roof to the equation, the windows will be added. it's not a clear picture, but the arm rests were added and some grunge was dabbed on the sand handles, grab handles, and coupler block were added next. for some reason, one set of grab handles were gold chromed.......I left them as they were. I may grunge them up a little too. due to the roof beam being outside of the cab, I didn't bother to raise the height of the canvas door. last but not least.......I began to assemble the bell bracket. I'll put the shiny part on later, after it's painted.

so....as I mentioned earlier, I've been doing some painting. I thought I was out of satin black, but looking in the Humbrol stockpile I got from Lou, I found a tin of it. the back part of the interior still needed to be cemented together, so I did that first. the chassis was painted with the Billing flat black. the interior and front bucket seats were painted with the Humbrol satin black. there is a hood scoop........there is also a cut out in the hood. this was removed and sanded. odd thing is that they only indicated the locating holes for the scoop be opened up. the headers were painted and later added to the engine. the dash was painted at this time. it's comprised of two pieces.........the main panel and the top. the engine stand can still be used. great for setting it aside while it dries. I found another hue of black in the bunch......this is the White Ensign flat black. it's got a weird smell to it and it's very watery. hard to get a good first coat. I may just go over it with the Billing black. I had cemented the fire wall and radiator panel into the body. I added the hood hinges to the hood.......more life like than the hinges I usually see. I've also painted the drive shaft and the differential......a few more parts to be painted before I can really assemble the model. more on this project soon.

HA-umph! the things you see when you don't have a feather! I can thing of nothing better.........I'm not a reader you know.......I was thinking that the other day..........this forum has need of a couple of whirly bird projects! great minds think alike glad to hear that your recovery is progressing.......never thought much of physical therapy. when I had my left knee operation, they wanted me to start therapy.........I told them that I'd get just as much therapy at work.........see ya I'll check out that kit.........sounds up my alley. the funny cars are nice, but they can get repetitious fast. depending on the kit brand, they seem to use the same construction {Revell is famous for this}. so I dragged the pictures out of the camera...........I've compiled a few since the tenth..........and yea, I've even done a little during my work week. as you can see, I've taken the day off {my little slice of heaven}, so I can play a bit today. it's wet outside, so that will make it a sure bet the bathroom is pretty much done.......the guys won't be back.......and the rest will be done by our landlord, whichever millennium he gets around to doing it. so that closes the saga..........enter the hall of the porcelain god.......it looks nice, but it's in stark contrast to the rest of the apartment {like walking form the 'ole west, into New York}. here is the update I promised you folks.

very nice finished model...the wood grain prop and rigging really looks nice I notice you did the lower wing roots......looks great melded into the fuselage. the whole camo motif really works for the model.........such a sweet build!

....a rendition of a Herman's Hermits song..........

good pictures.........the hull's com'in along nicely!

checking in on your progress Jo...........you should look in on some of my planking. it's a good thing I like to paint looking at where you are now, you did a great job......filler will be your friend. earlier, when I looked at the progress, it's plain to see that the bow and stern are pretty much the same. technique wise. basically, you want to keep the planking as straight as you can, so the use of stealers would have helped you here......at both ends. stealers are sections of planking that are run from the stems, to where the curvature of the preceding planking begins. they are tapered to a point and laid to get back to the straight line. for beginner plankers, it best to do the planking in short lengths and stagger the butts, so you'll have better control and not have to deal with the entire strip. built up, you would have defeated the curvatures at both ends. then you could have laid the garboard plank at the keel and worked that down to the other line, closing it up with a suitable plank width. I tend to let the plank tell me how things go....forcing planking is a good way to achieve the clinker effect. you want to stay away from that if it dictates that stealers are needed.....I put them in. .....if not, I taper. a second technique is Jogging......but this is a bit more involved. here, your starting with a single plank from the center, merging two planks when you near the bow or stern stems. think of it as two stealers merged into one to join the original plank strake. I'm not a fan of second planking......I think it'a an extreme waste of good wood. I only done it on a couple of my models.....even then, I used thin strip to do it. your doing a great job so far........keep up the good work

very sorry to chime in here and hear the news.....my condolences to you and your family

thanks CDW........this kit is really nice. it has the window glass as separate pieces, rather that all one part it has a lot of detail too! oh Lou...... being laid up like you are.........you must be bored out of your mind! you should have someone get you one of your smaller kits, so you have something to play with I didn't think I had any satin black, until I looked in the Humbrol box. I did a little bit yesterday......mostly painting. I cemented the back part of the interior together and painted it. I have some pictures in the camera.....I'll get'em out for tomorrow {I'm doing a little more painting as we speak}. another thing that is included in the kit, but not shown in the instructions, is the dual exhaust. don't know how they would hook up, since I have racing headers. I guess my spare parts box is going to get a little bigger

biplanes are cool........sounds like an interesting build

no....then you become movers..........

ah! she's look'in great Carl........glad to see ya back

I was going to drop you a link to the Hull Motorboat group, so you can see the model of the St Nectan that a fellow built....but it appears that the site is gone all that is there now is ads........says on the right hand side that the site may be for sale

wow! you've made some great progress the third tier and pilot house looks great.......nice bit of detail. finding the right mix of people is hard....even for the period it's based on. color and a few adjustments will work in your favor

good to see you've started to build her! I've enjoyed trawlers and fishing vessels, so I know you'll have quite a bit of fun unfortunately, I've never built one like your planning, so I'm a bit scant on suggestions. there's so much associated with the helm room and the main cabin, that it might be hard to remove roofs. the only thing I might suggest, is making the windows larger, to let more light in. pleased to follow you anywhere!

appreciate that gents painting at the moment

thanks Ken...........now that I've assembled the cab, I think that cementing the back wall flush with the side walls, will cure a lot of the issues. at the same time, remove those tabs on the side walls, so they don't interfere with the seats. also.....by doing this, it will put that beam {rib} of the roof frame on the inside of the cab, rather than the outside. I have given thought towards drilling new holes for the canvas, a bit higher, so to cloud that issue {although it really doesn't hurt the model too much}. this is the Round 2 model release in 2015.........I have a feeling that they didn't do any retooling on the molds, so the original release may be plagued with the same problems. thanks for the additional grunge tips........I'll include it when I do the rest of the paint

second that! nice job with the weathering....looks super wonderful progress! curious about those saws too........they look cool!

wow! some really superb progress......the bays look great! well done on the ship's boats too is it possible to paint the hull before stuffing the lower deck in there?

I copy and save the image from where I got it, although I have scanned stencils and stuff. I do believe though that photo shop has a much better color spectrum to work with. if I knew better how to adjust the values on colors, I'd likely have a better time with this. the everyday colors aren't much of a problem.....it's the in between colors, like pastels, that are hard to deal with.

sorry for the delay in my return..........had a big supper.......feel'in fat, took a snooze on the couch. continuing with what I was say'in......the reason I mention altering the assembly of the back wall, is that the amount the cab is off at the rear wall, is less that how much it's off at the front wall. you will gain at least 1/8 of an inch, but you will still need to cut back on that right side third step to cure the rest of the short coming. I find that those two slots for the walkways are tooled too much. in picture three, note where the side walls sit........at the inner edge of the walkway tabs. this means that those slots should only be that deep, judging how the side walls run along the walkway from the front, to the back. the protrusion of the walkway looks about 1/16, running parallel along the cab walls. I went ahead and made those slots larger......now I need to fill them in somehow, or there will be square holes there. so....only as deep as the wall's thickness is required. the half circle at the front wall has been adjusted as well.......I did that when I went to slide it in place earlier. material needs to be removed at both sides where they meet the walkways......it seems more oval, than circular. trim a little at a time equally, until it mates with the walkways....there still will be a gap......can't do anything about it, unless you want to try filling it in. trimming the base of the front wall will cause mismatching with the side walls.......figured I'd warn ya ahead of time about that pitfall. filling it in seems the only remedy.....but I'm not going to worry about it.... I thought back........we all do in cases like this.........to see if we might have goofed up somewhere. the walkways fit in their slots, the floor fits flush along the inner edges of the walkways, the Johnson bar is actually longer that the cab floor {where it locates}.......nope, I don't believe there are mistakes in these areas. ....hate it when stuff like this happens. the roof is in two parts......the framing and the roof itself. to judge if I had made some goof up with the cab, I dry fitted the roof frame to see how it fit. it sits inside the cab opening at the top...... the rear roof molding mates with the side moldings and the fit is pretty good. note where the beam at the rear wall sits......outside the wall. assembling the back wall flush with the side edges, this beam will then be on the inside of the back wall. again, it's all the matter of that 1/8 of an inch. by making this back wall adjustment, I do believe you'll be saving yourself from doing what I'm having to do. the step is trimmed back....... here is a view of the Johnson bar and the tab at the end of the walkway....the two causing the headaches.... after trimming the step until it fit, there is still a short coming with the two 'L' tabs on the walkway, where the front wall locates. the back wall adjustment would have cured this.......it would fit fine. but I chose to remove part of the 'L' and made it an 'I' the outcome is a good one.......the cab fits now. there is only a sliver gap at the base of the back wall......mainly due to slight warpage of the walkways, which can be easily taken care of after the cab is firmly cemented into place. I may remove the rest of those front tabs, now that I know how the cab orients on the walkways. the back wall will now butt up against the floor.......note the gap at the walkway tabs. sorry if I sound like a broken record, but I can't stress this stuff enough......if you want a good fit, this is one of the problems you'll be dealing with. it's not mated...but it will press into place........you can see how the side wall runs along the walkway.....evenly. again......if you flush fit the back wall, you can get away from altering the tabs at the front. the left side fits fine. you can see what looks like gussets at the ends of each step. when I spoke about fitting the Johnson bar, one of these is what it has to fit over. even then, it is too long for the area it fits in......strange it sticks out like this. it is what it is an overhead view showing the typical layout. I'll have to check and see what the interior color should be. just glad all this is over and the cab sits squarely, enclosing the cab area.

there is a major snafu with the cab it seems.........it doesn't fit correctly. I was going to paint, but figured I'd see how it would go together. the dry fit was fine......until I got to the back wall. the two ears that stick out at the ends of both walkways don't fit in the slots.....the second is the Johnson bar. it sticks out of the cab too far. the back wall is cut into steps from the floor......the second step, where the bar juts out, hits the third step and impedes it from going in place. so, I though to assemble the front and the sides together. note the tab by the left seat......there is one on the right side as well. they appear to be pushing the side walls away from where they should locate. there are the two 'L' shaped tabs on the walkways that are the locators for the front wall. note that both walls stop at the end of those walkway tabs....this is good. the problem lies with the back wall. figuring that the tabs on the walls are for the back wall to locate......I cemented the back wall in place. now.....to cement the Johnson bar into place, there is a slot that the edge of the seat column fit into. this put the end of the bar jutting outside of the cab. the walls stop just above the slots provided for the walkway tabs....these need to be enlarged. the third step on the right side needs to be partially removed, but done so the notching is square. without doing this, the entire box will be off by quite a bit. what I did here to fit the cab walls, was enlarge the two slots and remove part of the third stepping on the right side. this is the lesser of my two evils, since I really don't want to damage anything. in hindsight, the back wall can be fitted flush along the edge of the side walls, the roof line flush with the side wall edges, with the bottom of the walls flush with the slots for the walkways. I'll be back...........

thanks for look'in and the kind comments.......should have an update on this one soon I thought that too Mark.......this isn't a street rod. likely, I won't add the horn, but it is funny that they supply one. glad to have you aboard Ken and Jack...I'll try and make it interesting