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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    'Shivers' are sheaves: live ones are rotating ones in the fixed blocks in the sides of the ship. So, in modern language: fixed blocks opposite the mizen mast.
  2. druxey
    Just stumbled across this log. Lovely work!
  3. druxey
    Well done!
  4. druxey
    I believe that Texas A & M is still one premier place for marine archaeology.
  5. druxey
    Ah, the joys and frustrations of rigging! Hopefully you can install the cleats before permanently securing the masts with shrouds.
  6. druxey
    This is a problem with modern re-drafted plans - unless it's stated one doesn't know! Contemporary plans show both the line of beams at the side and centreline. In this case you don't even have a line of ports to give you a clue. The Royal Museums Greenwich hold a sheer and profile of the Pandora class: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-83477?_gl=1*1l5sqqk*_up*MQ..*_ga*NTU5MTEyMTE3LjE3MzE2NzU5NTI.*_ga_7JJ3J5DBF6*MTczMTY3NTk1MS4xLjEuMTczMTY3NTk3NS4wLjAuMA..*_ga_4MH5VEZTEK*MTczMTY3NTk1MS4xLjEuMTczMTY3NTk3NS4wLjAuMA.. This would be a more reliable starting point for you.
  7. druxey
    Beautiful and clean work, marsalv. I usually delay attaching the knee of the head until after planking and work on the external hull is complete, to prevent it breaking off. Also, it is not in the way when planking the bow.
  8. druxey
    Are you a watchmaker as well? Super work.
  9. druxey
    Excellent advice for those with sufficient patience!
  10. druxey
    Congratulations on completing your model, Greg. Lovely looking case. But might I suggest a couple of ventilation holes in the base covered with fine mesh to prevent insect entry? A sealed case is not good for a model.
  11. druxey
    That is a lovely hull you have there - it looks in pretty good condition.
  12. druxey
    Well done - no open deck seams. Lighting is the ultimate test!
  13. druxey
    Looks nice and clean now!
  14. druxey
    Examples of wooden pin in the Royal Museums Greenwich collection range from 43 to 49 cm (17" to 19") in length and 4 to 5 cm (1 1/2" to 2") in maximum diameter.
  15. druxey
    Just checking out your work so far, Håkan. Beautifully done. Glad to know that this will be continued.
  16. druxey
    Hopefully the bulkhead bracing will keep the hull straight.
  17. druxey
    Condolences on this, Alan. As the others said Mark II will probably go quicker and be better than the Mark I version.
  18. druxey
    Glad one can still view the inside of your boat. Well done! By the way, it seems we share a birthday: 29.10 - except I'm a few years older than you. Happy birthday!
  19. druxey
    I love to see models of unusual subjects! This is an interesting one.
  20. druxey
    Tomorrow is already here!Pparts that are 3D printed are really high resolution now, but items such as carved work lack a certain 'life' and look too perfect.
  21. druxey
    I simply use a coffee mug warmer as not a large container is needed for model parts.
  22. druxey
    Lovely but, as someone else pointed out, the water drainage holes in the spritsail are still needed.
  23. druxey
    I usually dip the parts in water after Sparex before blackening. You don't want to contaminate the blackening agent! (Acetone shouldnot be necessary unless you touch the parts between steps in processing.)
  24. druxey
    Different chemicals are involved for blackening pewter than for brass/copper. For pewter selenious acid, for copper or brass one of several sulphur compounds. Diluting the solution slows the chemical reaction and produces a thinner and more stable surface layer.
  25. druxey
    Photoetch might be a better solution.

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