druxey
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Workshop Essentials - Favorite Features
druxey replied to Justin P.'s topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
If, as you've mentioned, children may wander in unsupervised, cupboard doors behind which sharp items can be stored and locked, and a master switch to cut all power to the workshop space. -
Ab's comment is exactly behind the reason I queried the use of chain in the first place. Metallurgy until fairly recently was a less than perfect art. The reference to 'proof marks' on suits of armour reminded me of when I was a kid. I thought those dents on the breastplates were accidental.
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Interesting that this French orlop deck has round-up to the beams. British practice had flat ones. Perhaps more water leaked down in a French ship! Beautifully realized.
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- le gros ventre
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Sorry to read that the Model Engineering Exhibition isn't what it used to be. I well remember being taken by my father in the 1950's and early 60's (OK, so that dates me!) The mental image of a whirling Allen key gives me the shivers.....
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Well saved, Eric. The 'fixes' are part of the toolbox of the superior modelmaker.
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- sidewheeler
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Earlier (English) naval ships' treenail diameters were in proportion to the ship's length. I seem to recall the figure of 1" diameter for ever 100' 0" of keel. A sloop of 96' 0" had ⅞" diameter treenails, for example.
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I'm sorry to read of your loss. My condolences. What did you use to secure the paper pattern to the board with? And, speaking of the board, you might find MDF more stable.It is not liable to warp or change dimension. Your plank will expand and contract across the grain considerable with humidity changes. This may account for the wrinkling across your pattern.
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You would not want that crashing down! Your paper cannon are quite remarkable, Doris. I agree that those lines are halyards, not for hoisting boats. There were tackles from the lower yard arms and on the main stay for handling ship's boats.
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- royal katherine
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Very nice progress, Gary. If you want an easy way to round those rivet heads and keep your sanity, I believe that you can obtain cup burrs in small sizes. An example: https://www.eternaltools.com/cup-burrs
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Whew! I'm glad that you don't have to jacket those blocks, Keith. And that you can present visual evidence to the contrary.
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Got it, Chris. However, still keep your keel straight with longitudinal battens. You won't regret it.
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Keith: we must have had the same teacher. When i asked why, I was told it stopped dust settling in the slots....
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Aren't they kept nice and cosy in their little leather jackets! Impressive custom leatherwork, though. A horrible thought just occurred to me Keith: they are challenging you do the same with your blocks!
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Hinge man? Hinged - or perhaps unhinged! Seriously, that's lovely work on those hinges.
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Very fine silver tube and rod are available through jewelers' supply houses. Easier to cut than SS hypodermic needles! e.g: TUBING sterling silver 1.5mm 14GA
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Please use your building board with retaining strips each side to keep your keel straight. You'll need that board for erecting the framing anyway. Once some longitudinal timbers are on, the keel will remain straight.
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Pretty impressive work at that size! Must have been fun with trial and error in determining cutting parameters. Your lacquer 'gluing' technique is interesting. How much time does that allow for adjustment?
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If using ply, the 'sandwich' needs to be a balanced one with an equal number of layers each side of the central core. If it isn't, it will warp. That's why veneered pieces always have a counter-veneer on the opposite side.
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