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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Excellent beginning!
  2. druxey
    Just discovered your build log. Formidable!!! Je tire mon chapeau, monsieur. (I take my hat off for you).
  3. druxey
    Eventually there were training ships for boys and young offenders.... https://www.victorianlondon.org/charities/trainingships.htm but there was an earlier institution by Captain Hanway in the 1750's: http://childrenshomes.org.uk/TS/
  4. druxey
    Dilute acrylic matt varnish will work nicely.
  5. druxey
    This is all very interesting, well thought through and impressive, HH. The stern looks like quite the wedding cake in its uncolored state.
  6. druxey
    I use acrylic paint to simulate the turned over lead of a scupper.
  7. druxey
    Lovely grungy effect, Gary! Sponges of varying textures are great for creating texture in full size as well, such as stage sets.
  8. druxey
    Beautifully done, hyw!
  9. druxey
    Take a look through these Royal Museums Greenwich photos of a Union ensign, pre 1801. It is almost 4 meters by 5.5 meters in size! https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/730.html
  10. druxey
    Here is the 'official' complete set:
  11. druxey
    Whether or not the actual ships' dummy lights were glazed or not is uncertain. However, contemporary models all show glazing. Draw your own inferences....
  12. druxey
    Well, YT, you must have a very steady hand! I find the long curves very useful for laying out spiled planks.
  13. druxey
    I feel your pain, Bob. Current prices certainly make for attitude adjustment. I also have a lovely pearwood set of radius curves 3" to 200". Those earlier, heady days of eBay, when bargains could still be had! I still occasionally look and whimper softly.
  14. druxey
    Flush, Mark. Yes, the dummy lights fooled me years ago as well!
  15. druxey
    Nice to see a complete set, but I think $600 is overpriced. Either that or I'm sitting on a gold mine with my own complete set!
  16. druxey
    Sailor: the steps are cut into the fore deadwood as the base for the cant frames. If this is a foreign language for you, you should read up about it in a standard text on wooden warship construction like: Longridge, The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships Goodwin, The Sailing Man of War Both of these books are highly recommended.
  17. druxey
    Yes, glass aft of the wood panelling. As for tapering planks see: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66299.html Look at the upper edge of the black strake. There the tapering is obvious. Unfortunately, Steel and others don't mention this in their texts!
  18. druxey
    If I understand your question correctly, your issue is with the varied thicknesses of planking as you approach the outer counter timbers. I believe that the wale thickness diminishes as it approaches the stern to that of the planking between the wales. I think this is 3" in your instance. This partially solves the issue. Secondly, the outer light of the stern gallery is a dummy one, so is boarded in anyway. One will not see the plank ends here. I recall this being the only reasonable solution when I built Polyphemus, 64 guns of 1781, some years ago.
  19. druxey
    Bee-utiful, Keith!
  20. druxey
    I've only used mica for miniature glazing, Eberhard. I was simply musing....
  21. druxey
    Jose: your framing work is beautifully done, but I repectfully agree with Hubac. Please consider what he has suggested.
  22. druxey
    However, the rowers were not a Broadway chorus line: the slight variation in oar placement makes the overall effect more realistic. Looks good to me!
  23. druxey
    You must use a very low speed when applying poly. I can just see spraying it over everything if I tried that under power! Looking great, Keith.
  24. druxey
    As already mentioned, please read the planking tutorials on this site - they are free!
  25. druxey
    Thanks for the explanation, Eberhard. Now I wonder if mica is also a possible material to work with....

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