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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I eagerly went to this topic, only to be disappointed. Where are the chromed exhaust pipes, Alan? Seriously, the zero clearance insert that is flush to the table is an excellent idea. Nice adaptation for a vernier gauge as well.
  2. druxey
    Regardless of edition, it is unlikely the plates in Falconer would have been re-engraved. It was an expensive investment, and only if major changes had occured would a plate be altered or re-engraved. For some of those profiles, a left and a right hand tool are required. Otherwise, you'd have to refine the turnings by hand!
  3. druxey
    Yup, rubbing alcohol (aka isopropanol) is the panacea for many, many model-making woes!
  4. druxey
    Apparently the Caruana drawing was from an actual example of cast cannon, not the theoretical drawing. I mention that for what it's worth.
  5. druxey
    What quality are you looking for? If you want a tool that performs well, you have the budget for it and one that will last, consider a Proxxon. Note that you will need their 12V transformer as well.
  6. druxey
    Interesting technique, Valeriy. The result looks very nice.
  7. druxey
    I agree with Michael; that is very impressive work - and at such small scale.
  8. druxey
    Ouch! That was a little self-harsh, wasn't it? Every model is a learning process and none of us have reached perfection yet. Yes, there will be mistakes, but they are usually all fixable. Go for it, Tony.
  9. druxey
    I thought that the mizen monkey gaff was a toothpick, simply for comparison.
  10. druxey
    Redshirt: Plan sheet 1 contains profile, deck plan, sheer plan, building board plan, cross-section and various timber patterns. Plan sheet 2 contains all spar plans, standing and running rigging plans and belaying plan. Plan sheet 3 contains complete lofted frame drawings, transoms, hawse pieces and elevations of bow and stern cant framing. All drawings are presented at 1:48 scale, except the standing and running rigging and belaying plans, which are at 1:96 scale. These are pretty complete. As for quality; you be the judge! If you've seen any other SeaWatchBooks books, you will know what quality to expect.
  11. druxey
    Usually smaller coastal vessels such as cutters were clinker-built. It's unlikely that a 22-gun brig was clinker built. Also, the St Petersburg model's headwork looks very un-British in style. The Mercury figure was also used on British ships such as Fly, Speedwell and others, not just ships named Mercury!
  12. druxey
    Ah! The dreaded 'cumulative error' factor! It's good to be constantly aware of that possibility. The framing so far look great, Ben.
  13. druxey
    Looking interesting, Dan. I hope that the tape you've used comes off easily without taking the printed surface with it!
  14. druxey
    Good save of the topmast in re-orienting the sheave! 'Seizing' was perhaps the word that escaped you? Nice ropework.
  15. druxey
    Yes, very similar to Alan's rendering. I can send you images via PM.
  16. druxey
    Looking at English Sea Ordnance: The Age of the System by Adrian Caruana, the pattern used at that time period (Armstrong-Frederick and 1732 Regulation) had a small ornamental ring around the equator of the cascabel and the muzzle flare was slighter larger and distinctly more concave than in your illustrations above.
  17. druxey
    Nicely done and illustrated, Ab. A note for folk who prefer to use water-based paint such as acrylic on card models. If you do so, the card or paper will buckle. To avoid this, simply spray the model or parts with universal grey primer first to seal the surface. I learned this trick years ago when building card/paper maquettes for stage designs.
  18. druxey
    Very impressive, Igor. Usually I don't much care for this type of model, but what you have achieved here is outstanding.
  19. druxey
    Formidable, monsieur! Very impressive decorative detail, Michel.
  20. druxey
    The line tension discussion is interesting. I wet my (long fiber cotton) lines before hardening them: this lengthens them somewhat, then they contract as they dry under tension. After that, they seem stable. The exceptions are the cabled lines. The heavier ones do slacken off noticeably when humidity is lower.
  21. druxey
    Awesome indeed!
  22. druxey
    An interesting solution to the problem, Dan. What gold paint did you use, if I may ask?
  23. druxey
    Very nice results, Johann!
  24. druxey
    From the description, a clump block is what was earlier termed a 'thick' block. There were regularly proportioned blocks, as well as 'thin' blocks. The latter were, as implied, thinner for their length and were reeved with a lighter line than the regular version. Presumably 'thick' or 'clump' blocks carried lines of larger size than their 'normal' counterparts.
  25. druxey
    Nicely put, Mark!

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