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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. In reality, any sharp edges and corners were chamfered for safety. For a 'first build' this detail is optional. Good for you to include it!
  2. Tricky work, applying inside bulwark planking when all the outer detail is already installed!
  3. Yup; we're interested, Steven! You always find such interesting and different subjects.
  4. There were many 'experimental' drawings made; the standard steering wheel didn't need a detailed explanation with the drawing. The example above was obviously a proposal that didn't eventually make the cut.
  5. Startling photos, to say the least! You are a messy worker, Daniel.
  6. Well that was one method of cutting a helm port that I've not seen before! I have far less valor. I pre-file the shape of the hole before I assemble the parts. Only final shaping is done after assembly. That way, if I mess up, only one piece will be spoiled, not all of them!
  7. Although I cannot locate these drawings in his book, the style of illustration is very similar to those of L.G. Carr Laughton. (Old Ship's Figureheads & Sterns, 1925.)
  8. Remember - the full-size builders didn't have elaborate building stations with jigs! Just plumb lines, squares and measuring tools. It helps to remember to check vertical in all three planes as you erect each frame: 1) vertical as seen from the side 2) at right angles across the keel 3) center of cross-spall centered above the keel No-one will notice, once you model is complete and mounted vertically, that your keel is very slightly canted to one side!
  9. HH: you might consider 'progressive' vari-focal lens spectacles. Since I got mine, I've rarely needed an Optivisor - something that i wore extensively over the previous 10 years.
  10. Your work looks excellent to my eye. Mark. Very sweet.
  11. It appears that the manufacturer did not know this and simply intended it for a relatively unsophisticated kit.
  12. A radius is required so that, when at anchor, the cables are not chafed when the ship turns and they cross the bow. I've discovered that, in shipbuilding, there was always a reason for why something was done a certain way.
  13. Allan makes a good point. There are many models that do not show this double taper (from aft to forward as well as from below upward) of the knee of the head. The knee is not simply slab-sided. It makes the fore end of a model look heavy and clumsy. An example of this taper is shown here:
  14. With a small table saw such as a Byrnes, with a proper set-up you are unlikely to have a kick-back. However, as a precaution, I always stand to the left of the path of any potential flying object.
  15. Well done, Daniel, on surviving covid, a long drive with young children and a fair!
  16. Yup, it's an 'advanced' all right! If a piece buckles as you describe, you can often selectively re-wet the buckled bit and 'massage' it into the shape you want. But it looks like you are coping well with that tricky countered stern.
  17. It appears that the lowest strakes do not narrow sufficiently as they come into the bow and stem. Once you have lined out the planking runs, you must follow them accurately, or cumulative 'creep' will occur and you'll end up with the same problem again. Also, your garboard could end a little further aft as well to help things out.
  18. In fairness to Hahn, he used this for small-scale models, not large 1:48 scale ones. The wastage was significantly less.
  19. Here is an example of the open 'Navy Board' style of framing. Note that the model was built right side up, with no wasted extended toptimbers.
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