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md1400cs

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Everything posted by md1400cs

  1. Frank, Yes – perfect idea indeed. When I looked at saw reviews on Youtube one of the reviewers indeed made just what you suggested. I later realized that Proxxon now encloses just what you suggested. I may make one out of thin oak planks that I can cut to size. Need to set that bit up – on my list – as soon as I need to cut very small planks – been using my very, small and old Proxxon KS-115 in the meantime Stuglo: funny – that would have indeed been a disaster back then – No actually it is supposed to be a “slider” pin – creative silliness on my part. That said back in those days is where the “he’s a sun of a gun”, came from: sailors (gunners) enjoying the working girls who would sometimes get them pregnant hence the phrase. Though some etymologists dispute this particular use of the phrase. The most plausible is this; there was an allowance for some women (spouses or working girls) to live on English Navel ships. Any child born on board who had uncertain paternity would be listed in the ship’s log as “son of a gun”.
  2. Patrick, As always thank so much - As you know I'm a huge fan of your work. Minor update - need to re-do bowsprit area so thought I would add these two bits. Added the gratings as well. Regards,
  3. Thanks Frank, Though treenails, as we all know, should be two bits in tandem across planks. So not too satisfied with how this looks. That said when all of the ornamentation is added they won't look too out of scale (will re-think "how to" for sides of hull). Some builders use very thin brass wire resulting in perfect scaling. For the Vasa I drilled holes and used wood filler - came out very nicely. Many builders like this method. But for now at least I think that I got the stern cannon openings in just about the right places - the bronze pieces will locate as they should. Thanks for dropping by and your nice comment - Don't know whom to credit for that great SoS (below) that I have been using as a guide. Speaking of which, you have all been so nice not asking about the round tucked stern. Sergal's kit is certainly not representative of the 1637 Payne engravings and the Heck painting, and the Levy portrait is inconclusive. It could be that Sergal used a much later re-build of the SoS to emulate its stern, lanterns and galeries (though instructions do suggest a tucked stern). I do believe, however, that McKay does have the stern totally wrong (the book is an otherwise a brilliant study of this ship). His drawings would make the rudder totally useless - see image below - In that regard I have raised the stern waterline planks a bit more. Also there are no credible plans in existence - AND given my lack of confidence along with inconclusive historical data I have put this issue to sleep. Regards,
  4. Hi Frank, I've clicked a lot of likes - but said little. 🙁 Well your current build is really brilliant. The needed accurately spaced bits to really give justice to this very complicated boat (ship?) are so impressive. Superb work - in all areas - indeed. Cheers my friend - hope all is well for you and yours in our Brave New World. MJD
  5. Good news. Excellent smaller maritime museum located in a nice small town north of Los Angeles. Ed Marple also has his, arguably the best scratch built Sovereign of the Seas on permanent display within. Looking forward to attending as well. Regards,
  6. Frank, and OC - thanks - yes a "scary stage" needs to be just right - not such a "fun" part of a build (for me in any case) - but just can't mess this up. Here is what I need to do next, before sanding and so on....
  7. Hi all, Working on the first planking as well as fixing a stern stem post and the keel filler. Next, as you all know, will be sanding, sanding, filler and then sanding. Thanks for your visits always much appreciated.
  8. Dave, Just found your log, saw current page first thought whoa this is huge! - then it became much smaller going back through your log 😀. As always brilliant work PS: Your backyard is awesome. Regards,
  9. James, Grabbed my chair, but really needed a ladder your shipyard is, as it should be, already a very full one indeed. 👌 This kit does look to be of amazing quality. Will follow along, learn and enjoy as well. The Victory has and always intimidated me, still does. But so appreciate the talents of builders here who can do her proper justice. Regards,
  10. Yes, great update. You raise the bar to levels hardly ever seen. That image - holding the bits in your fingers speaks volumes
  11. Hi Jimbyr, Looked on their site - no luck I then spoke with them - they told me that they don't make any chuck with 16m - largest is 14m - Hmmm But thanks anyway. I'll keep using the Proxxon plastic one
  12. Mark, Parenthetical question - one of your images above shows a sail with a hole in it, as in the image below. Certainly you would know why this was done. Any thoughts? - my guess is to make the sail "flap" less hmmm.... PS: Can't give credit to this amazing example - found in Google Images, with no credit - though it was from a builder in the UK.
  13. Flint, Nice second build. Your hull planking looks great as well. Will grab a seat. Regards,
  14. Minor update – did some work for the stern cannon doors. Needed to be sure that the required openings were not to high up. Looking at an image from old kit helped, along with positioning some decorative bits. Needed to also cut out two spaces because gun door frames and dummy carriages would not fit. Added a back filler and painted area black. Carriages will now also fit. Will drill the four gun holes after installation. Put together the gun frame facings. Now set aside – now back to first hull planking.
  15. Jonathan, Hmmm Metal could be an issue? I tried experimenting with that idea on my current Sergal Sovereign, with their large solid bronze lanterns (from their 80s original kit metal bits). Did not go well. The Testors product dried opaque and greenish. There was an interaction with the metal. It was a mess to remove from one of the five lanterns that I experimented with. Have not thought of plan B. In your case just adding some clear plastic behind might be better???
  16. Jonathan, Just a suggestion. You might want to use this to add clear windows to your stern area - It looks as if your frames are plastic, so it should work well. Airliner model builders sometimes use this for all the windows.. Just a thought
  17. thanks for your posts, Just checked the Proxxon website and these are the data for the 3 jaw metal chuck; Three jaw chuck for the lathe DB 250 Used for concentric clamping. Made from steel and offering 1/16" - 1 13/32" (1.5 to 32mm) and 1/2" - 2 14/32" (12 to 65mm) when reversing the jaws. The chuck has a M16 x 1 thread for fitting directly to the DB 250 headstock spindle So I need 16mmx1mm for thead?? - looked at the chuck did appear to be 15mm+- and 1mm threads. will check with Sherline thanks!!
  18. Hi mates, Have been looking for a self centering 4 jaw chuck for my small DB-250 lathe. I have their annoying non self-centering plastic one. Their 3 jaw metal one is great!! I did find a self-centering one for their PD 400 lathe. But that goes for around $400. USD – yikes – might not even work on their small DB-250 lathe? Many generic 4 jaw types are available on eBay but who knows if they would screw properly for use with the DB-250?? Has anyone found one that would work? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks in advance. What I have What I would like,
  19. Karl, indeed stunning work. I have learned so much about "details" by following your work - followed by my attempts at trying to emulate, as best I can, some (a very few 😃) of your visions. Congratulations!
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